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Posted: 1/21/2017 1:24:37 PM EDT
[#1]
Considering that it has a 16" barrel now and you'd end up with a 16" barrel...
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Posted: 1/21/2017 3:20:32 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Considering that it has a 16" barrel now and you'd end up with a 16" barrel... I completely understand your point. I have a lack of information. I don't know if the tulip flash hider is considered in the length. Also when I get it rethreaded what length (if any) I will loose. |
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Posted: 1/21/2017 4:13:21 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I completely understand your point. I have a lack of information. I don't know if the tulip flash hider is considered in the length. Also when I get it rethreaded what length (if any) I will loose. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Considering that it has a 16" barrel now and you'd end up with a 16" barrel... I completely understand your point. I have a lack of information. I don't know if the tulip flash hider is considered in the length. Also when I get it rethreaded what length (if any) I will loose. The barrel length does not include the length with the flash hider attached. Why do you intend to get the barrel re-threaded? Just get a proper threaded flash hider replacement/sound suppressor mount for your Aug's suppressor. |
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Posted: 1/21/2017 5:01:53 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The barrel length does not include the length with the flash hider attached. Why do you intend to get the barrel re-threaded? Just get a proper threaded flash hider replacement/sound suppressor mount for your Aug's suppressor. Oh oh oh. I can answer this. I don't know what suppressor/mount/muzzle device the OP has. But for me it's because there are very few if any options in teh AUG thread pattern for my suppressor(s). Of course if anyone knows a proper threaded dervice that will work with a Saker 5.56 can. Let me know.  Believe me, I'drather go that route than have the barrel rethreaded.
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Posted: 1/21/2017 5:05:39 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Oh oh oh. I can answer this. I don't know what suppressor/mount/muzzle device the OP has. But for me it's because there are very few if any options in teh AUG thread pattern for my suppressor(s). Of course if anyone knows a proper threaded dervice that will work with a Saker 5.56 can. Let me know. Believe me, I'drather go that route than have the barrel rethreaded.Thats exactly what I have. I have a Saker in 556 and 762. Neither mounts come in the M13x1LH thread pattern. However, however . . . SilencerCo does make a 9mm mount for the Hybrid suppressor using the ASR mounting protocol. That does come in the M13x1LH. I've sent an email to Silencerco asking if that mount will be compatible with the gear I have. Aside from some nomenclature issues, I think it would be ok. SilencerCo |
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Posted: 1/21/2017 5:35:35 PM EDT
[#6]
too bad no one makes a suppressor that mounts via the internal threads on the tulip and 3 prong flash suppressors anymore. There used to be at least one like that back in the 90's
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Posted: 1/21/2017 11:01:23 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
too bad no one makes a suppressor that mounts via the internal threads on the tulip and 3 prong flash suppressors anymore. There used to be at least one like that back in the 90's http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_43/468923_.html&page=1 |
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Posted: 1/21/2017 11:13:09 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
too bad no one makes a suppressor that mounts via the internal threads on the tulip and 3 prong flash suppressors anymore. There used to be at least one like that back in the 90's http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_43/468923_.html&page=1 wow, I miss a response to my own thread 
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Posted: 1/22/2017 9:33:56 AM EDT
[#9]
Oooohhhh, did you see the Silencerco blog? They have an AUG with a Saker on it.
You can do the round about/expensive way of attaching a Saker. Get a 51T flash hider and the corresponding 51T MAAD mount. |
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Posted: 1/22/2017 10:20:31 AM EDT
[#10]
I have a 51T on my aug and a MAAD mount on both my sakers. Stupidly, I have a couple 51Ts AND the Ratworx adapter.
Too much buying and not enough checking of inventory! I did send my barrel back to Pete to make sure the muzzle devices were swapped correctly, even though maleante sent me instructions on how to do it I chickened out. At ~$4XX a barrel Pete's price for services was unbeatable! |
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Posted: 1/22/2017 11:53:46 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have a 51T on my aug and a MAAD mount on both my sakers. Stupidly, I have a couple 51Ts AND the Ratworx adapter. Too much buying and not enough checking of inventory! I did send my barrel back to Pete to make sure the muzzle devices were swapped correctly, even though maleante sent me instructions on how to do it I chickened out. At ~$4XX a barrel Pete's price for services was unbeatable! What does the Ratworx adapter do? Thread pitch adapter? I'm very invested in the ASR mount pattern. With 2 Sakers, I have many uppers that use it. |
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Posted: 1/22/2017 3:03:51 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What does the Ratworx adapter do? Thread pitch adapter? I'm very invested in the ASR mount pattern. With 2 Sakers, I have many uppers that use it. If I'm thinking of the right thing. The Ratworx adapter attaches to the standard AUG thread pattern. Then gives you the common 1/2x28mm pitch. But it does at length. Which I'm not interested in at all. http://ratworxusa.com/product.rw-sua-stgau I may get my AUG barrel(s) rethreaded. I've got a 20inch (my main barrel) and a 16 inch barrel for my home defense AUG. That other option with the AAC MAAD mount and muzzle device is another nice option. But adds a considerable amount of money (depending on how much barrel(s) rethreading will be). Not sure if on the price of re threading. My local gunsmith and friends need to look at the barrel(s) first. I will say, I had them thread my 9mm AUG barrel and they did a great job. The 9mm AUG (I have a dedicated 9mm AUG) will have a suppressor for it too when that Silencerco Osprey comes in. Just direct mounting that one. Though, I do know a few, very reputable places (adco, etc) do AUG rethreading. Well see. I'm not terribly invested in one Silencerco mount over another. I do have a couple Saker Trifecta flash suppressor. Plus the Trifecta MAAD mount that is in with the suppressor in jail right now. But my understanding, the Trifecta mount isn't the best, has been some issues. And the ASR mount (even according to some Silencerco employees) is the best, most rock solid. Silencerco is awesome, so I don't think I'd have an issue asking them to swap my Trifecta stuff for ASR stuff. I've seen several folks do it. But with the AUG thread pattern. I'm either gonna have to get a Ratworx adapter. Re thread the barrel(s). Or get the AAC stuff. 
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Posted: 1/23/2017 12:07:00 PM EDT
[#13]
I exchanged all my trifecta stuff for ASR stuff. One for one. They did it quickly and painlessly. I'm very happy with the customer service. If I'm in the market for a new suppressor, I will look at SilencerCo first.
If I get the Aug rethreaded, I'll also get it shortened insignificantly. Perm attach the flash hider. I'll get it done locally. |
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Posted: 1/23/2017 12:11:06 PM EDT
[#14]
keep in mind that going much shorter may require a different gas port size. The gas port on the factory 14.5" barrel is a different size than that on the 16" and 20"
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Posted: 1/23/2017 2:04:55 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
keep in mind that going much shorter may require a different gas port size. The gas port on the factory 14.5" barrel is a different size than that on the 16" and 20" I figured. So is running suppressed. I'll most likely buy an new gas block to trial and error on. The absolute best would be having the factory data. Exactly what diameter is used. That would be perfect. I made a mistake earlier with SilencerCo. The 9mm FH is 13.5x1 L, the Aug is 13x1 L. Edit. I may have found the data. |
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Posted: 1/23/2017 8:47:08 PM EDT
[#16]
My Aug works great suppressed with a Surefire 300SPS. I have the .22Cal SOCOM556RC and it is touch and go depending on ammo (kind of limited with a 1/9 twist, so my "77gr reliable in a 1/7 twist barrel" loads aren't great on this platform). The 300SPS has a bit more gas volume available and is very reliable, even without changing the regulator setting. The 556 can sometimes shows a little overspeeding of the carrier. For a mount, Silencer Shop has the Surefire SOCOM flash hider in stock here. If the topic of getting the factory flash hider comes up, it is easy and can be done without much stress if you have the right tools. Stahlwille makes nice thin 19mm wrenches that fit perfectly, so no mickey mouse grinding or "tappet" wrenches. You can get them on Amazon, and $23ish per wrench is cheap considering the alternatives:
 
I have pulled the flash hiders off of 3 AUG barrels very easily and never had to resort to heat, swearing, or excess muscling. |
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Posted: 1/23/2017 10:45:18 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My Aug works great suppressed with a Surefire 300SPS. I have the .22Cal SOCOM556RC and it is touch and go depending on ammo (kind of limited with a 1/9 twist, so my "77gr reliable in a 1/7 twist barrel" loads aren't great on this platform). The 300SPS has a bit more gas volume available and is very reliable, even without changing the regulator setting. The 556 can sometimes shows a little overspeeding of the carrier. For a mount, Silencer Shop has the Surefire SOCOM flash hider in stock here. If the topic of getting the factory flash hider comes up, it is easy and can be done without much stress if you have the right tools. Stahlwille makes nice thin 19mm wrenches that fit perfectly, so no mickey mouse grinding or "tappet" wrenches. You can get them on Amazon, and $23ish per wrench is cheap considering the alternatives: www.amazon.com/dp/B00C11RYKK I have pulled the flash hiders off of 3 AUG barrels very easily and never had to resort to heat, swearing, or excess muscling. Good info, thanks. I'm hoping I get lucky, at least with my 20 inch barrel. And I don't have to screw with opening up a gas port(s) to run my AUG with a suppressor. Running the gun on adverse would be fine for me. |
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Posted: 1/23/2017 11:44:56 PM EDT
[#18]
you also have to keep the overall length over 26". i don't think it's worth chopping the barrel, pinning a flash hider/mount, and worrying about barrel gas port size just to go 1" shorter
if you do end up having a problem with over-gassing with a suppressor, you could try what was suggested over at Lightfighter. Get a spare gas regulator and drill out the adverse hole to around 0.107" (this was close to what the suppressor setting on Australian F88's is). This will let more gas out of the vent hole and keep it out of the gun |
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Posted: 1/23/2017 11:50:10 PM EDT
[#19]
Before anyone goes nuts cutting barrels and drilling gas ports @pursuitSS needs to come in here and relate his experience. It's worth listening to before breaking out the hacksaw and dremel.
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Posted: 1/24/2017 12:32:07 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Before anyone goes nuts cutting barrels and drilling gas ports @pursuitSS needs to come in here and relate his experience. It's worth listening to before breaking out the hacksaw and dremel. Yeah, I had an original 20" barrel chopped down to where it was a total overall length of 16" including the flash suppressor. It was a Smith Vortex IIRC. After said chop job, I had to leave the gas regulator on "adverse" and it still wasn't 100% 
Fortunately I was able to unload it with full disclosure of the issue. I wouldn't attempt it again. LINK |
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Posted: 1/24/2017 12:44:19 AM EDT
[#21]
I for one don't see the point in cutting down a barrel, on an already short weapon to just make it 2 inches or so shorter. Especially since AUG barrels don't grow on trees like say AR barrels do.But hey, to each their own. I just wouldn't wanna run the chance having things not work. Then you're screwed.
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Posted: 1/24/2017 12:48:12 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
you also have to keep the overall length over 26". i don't think it's worth chopping the barrel, pinning a flash hider/mount, and worrying about barrel gas port size just to go 1" shorter if you do end up having a problem with over-gassing with a suppressor, you could try what was suggested over at Lightfighter. Get a spare gas regulator and drill out the adverse hole to around 0.107" (this was close to what the suppressor setting on Australian F88's is). This will let more gas out of the vent hole and keep it out of the gun I've read about that, found that thread doing research. And it what I plan to do. Unless I get lucky and it works on adverse without that. |
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Posted: 1/24/2017 1:35:40 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've read about that, found that thread doing research. And it what I plan to do. Unless I get lucky and it works on adverse without that. the adverse setting puts more gas into the gun, not less. if over-gassing is the problem, you want less gas |
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Posted: 1/24/2017 10:20:01 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
the adverse setting puts more gas into the gun, not less. if over-gassing is the problem, you want less gas I thought the same and was confused. The normal gas port size is either 0.089 (16 and 20 inch barrel) or 0.082 (24 inch barrel), which is in line with the M4. From an unconfirmed source the 14.5 inch barrel has a port size of 0.095. So having the suppressed port size be larger (0.107) makes sense. However a lot has to do with the suppressor that was used to determine that ideal size. Cutting down a 20 inch barrel to 16 inches should be ok, as the gas settings / gas block (if you can call it that) should be the same. Maybe they are not, or another error was made. It's speculation. I don't know what the adverse port size is? I'd say it's less than 0.082. |
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Posted: 1/24/2017 1:13:53 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
the adverse setting puts more gas into the gun, not less. if over-gassing is the problem, you want less gas That's true. 
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Posted: 1/24/2017 2:00:53 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I thought the same and was confused. The normal gas port size is either 0.089 (16 and 20 inch barrel) or 0.082 (24 inch barrel), which is in line with the M4. From an unconfirmed source the 14.5 inch barrel has a port size of 0.095. So having the suppressed port size be larger (0.107) makes sense. However a lot has to do with the suppressor that was used to determine that ideal size. Cutting down a 20 inch barrel to 16 inches should be ok, as the gas settings / gas block (if you can call it that) should be the same. Maybe they are not, or another error was made. It's speculation. I don't know what the adverse port size is? I'd say it's less than 0.082. keep in mind that we're talking about the ports in the gas plug, not the in the barrel. the gas plug openings regulate how much gas is vented out of the gas chamber. the normal setting is has a larger venting hole than the adverse setting, and the suppressor setting (in the Australian mil gun) is even larger than the normal setting. according to my calipers, the normal setting vent is 0.08" and the adverse one is 0.03" |
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Posted: 1/24/2017 2:35:21 PM EDT
[#27]
What length is the barrel that you're trying to chop? Why not just get a 16"?
And if you have a Saker, just get a 51T mount and the appropriate Saker module and call it good. |
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Posted: 1/24/2017 2:45:47 PM EDT
[#28]
Quoted:
I'd like to pin weld a suppressor mount on an Aug, for the shortest non-NFA length. If I get that done, will the over all length be too short? Even if the total barrel length with a 16.5 barrel? No. I pinned and welded a factory 14" and it's legal in terms of barrel length and overall length. |
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Posted: 1/24/2017 4:07:21 PM EDT
[#29]
Nothing about this hobby is inexpensive. I get that.
If I go with a 51T mount, then it'll be the only gun I have with this system. Gotta get a mount and module for the Saker. If I catch a sale, maybe $350. Getting the threads changed will be about $350. Shipping, ADCO and timing of a brake. I already have the brake so about $250 additional. Getting a screw on adapter is not an option for me. I absolutely do not like the look. The cheapest option is to cut off the existing threads and rethread with 1/2x28 and permanently attach my brake. Initially my thoughts were to make the barrel with a permanently attached brake the shortest non NFA possible. I mean if I'm going to cut the barrel anyways. However after doing a lot of reading, asking the question here and talking on the phone, that is a bad idea. I am not going that route. I am wondering if I'll have significant issues if I just have the 13x1L threads cut off. Just remove the threads and no more. Then rethread and perm attach the brake. Getting the 51T mount and adapter is probably best, least destructive and reversible. |
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Posted: 1/24/2017 4:49:01 PM EDT
[#30]
M13.5 is larger in diameter than 1/2 so the threaded area is just turned down and re-threaded. As long as someone competent does it and maintains concentricity, you should be fine. I thought about doing the same thing to mount a Warcomp since the Aug flash hider was out of stock everywhere so long. I think the Adco service was "Repair damaged threads" or something like that since you aren't cutting or crowning the barrel.
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Posted: 1/25/2017 3:19:09 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
M13.5 is larger in diameter than 1/2 so the threaded area is just turned down and re-threaded. As long as someone competent does it and maintains concentricity, you should be fine. I thought about doing the same thing to mount a Warcomp since the Aug flash hider was out of stock everywhere so long. I think the Adco service was "Repair damaged threads" or something like that since you aren't cutting or crowning the barrel. Really? Did not know that. I'll ask the place I usually go to. Thanks. |
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Posted: 1/25/2017 10:41:01 PM EDT
[#32]
YHM make an AUG version of their QD suppressor mount. Any results with this?
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Posted: 1/27/2017 2:42:55 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
YHM make an AUG version of their QD suppressor mount. Any results with this? Not yet. Need to get the mount and then decide which rifle to put it on - the ULT seems like an ideal can for this purpose. One of my 16"s has an SDN-6. |
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Posted: 1/27/2017 6:52:46 PM EDT
[#34]
1/2 inch is 12.7mm, so you have almost .8mm of material to turn down. It is a relatively easy thing to do.
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Posted: 1/27/2017 9:56:05 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
1/2 inch is 12.7mm, so you have almost .8mm of material to turn down. Not quite. You need to go from the minor diameter to the major diameter. You're going from the major to the major, not taking into account the cut threads. |
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Posted: 1/28/2017 2:45:46 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not quite. You need to go from the minor diameter to the major diameter. You're going from the major to the major, not taking into account the cut threads. You're right, the data set is here: Threading guidelines |
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Posted: 1/28/2017 8:17:41 AM EDT
[#37]
I went thru all of this when wanting to pin and weld my factory 14". I didn't want to rethread the barrel, I wanted to rethread the flash hider. In the end, I chose a Surefire flash hider for a HK MP7 as it was long enough and had very small threads with plenty of meat to rethread. In addition, the bore had to be opened up slightly. Here's an old pic...
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Posted: 1/28/2017 11:05:07 AM EDT
[#38]
Rethreading a FH seems like a better option. Just from modifying a cheaper piece perspective.
Was it hard to get the muzzle device rethreaded? Technically? I want to suppress it with my Saker, so I need to use a FH or MB Saker mount. I'll ask the gunsmith and go from there. I don't have an Aug (yet). However I do have a HTM 2020 trigger pack from a long time ago. Yes, the whole trigger pack. |
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Posted: 1/28/2017 2:06:02 PM EDT
[#39]
Oh and would you do it again?
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Posted: 1/28/2017 5:01:09 PM EDT
[#40]
No, it's easy as long as there's enough meat to rethread.
Yes, for me the whole point of a bullpup is the shortest non-SBR rifle possible and this is it. Barely over 16" barrel and barely over 26" overall. ETA: its far shorter than all of my 10.5" SBRs with the stocks only about half way extended. It may even be shorter than them with the stocks completely collapsed, but I've never checked as I don't shoot them that way. |
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