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Posted: 4/28/2017 3:47:13 PM EDT
I'm already deep into Hornady but after getting off the phone with a tech I'm thinking they are beginnng to start to cheap out.
They've always, in my estimation, been quick to ship out parts for free and I be heard it mentioned here as well but I think those times may be coming to an end. I called and asked for a shim because my seating die is rotating out of place during regular press operation. The tech told me that that's not what it's used for. It should only be used with the powder dispenser. I also mentioned my press was originally an "eject by wire" and he says "wow, that has is old." Then why the fuck is he telling me how stuff is supposed to work? So different from my last 10 calls. |
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I have/had two dillon presses. Had 550, now have 650.
I never even needed to call them at all, much less 10 times. |
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I had the same issue with my powder measure, so they gave me the shims when I asked for them. Ive never had any issues with them sending me parts either.
My LnL probably has 40k cycles on it between loading and prepping brass so things are starting to wear a little. I do need to call them and get a set of pawls just for backup. But to be honest, the only thing Ive ever had major issues with with this press is the case feeder. The rest of the press works great for me. |
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If you go blue you'll cry once and then smile the rest of your life.
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I have a 550B (for the past 6 years) and have debated getting a LnL because I have been wanting to go to the progressive route. That being said I have 2 friends with LnL's and while they are nice, they are always complaining about little stuff. alot about something with the primers. Ive decided when i have the $, im just going the 650 route.
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Thanks for the responses guys.
Kaldor, was yours a wire eject or the newer sub plate eject? I will be looking over the "how to tune your LNL" thread once I settle in for the evening but after just coming back in fro my reloading room and playing I noticed my primer slide hangs up regularly on the primer seater. Always has, so much so that I file away the front part of the shuttle to make it run smoother. I will be calling Hornady back shortly and will report back on that conversation. |
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A plus for blue is my shooting buddy has a 650 with a case feeder and lots of fun xperience with Dillon in general; also has a 550.
Got to go call HCS. |
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I went Hornady, Didn't cry once and have a big smile on my face. http://i.imgur.com/jiWX8FZl.jpg View Quote |
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Thanks for the responses guys. Kaldor, was yours a wire eject or the newer sub plate eject? I will be looking over the "how to tune your LNL" thread once I settle in for the evening but after just coming back in fro my reloading room and playing I noticed my primer slide hangs up regularly on the primer seater. Always has, so much so that I file away the front part of the shuttle to make it run smoother. I will be calling Hornady back shortly and will report back on that conversation. View Quote All I can say is chamfer the front edge of the primer slide, polish it up, and keep it clean. The last time I had an issue with the primer slide it was because i was being lazy and it was filthy because I went from decapping 9mm for tumbling to loading 223. Takes what, 3 minutes to clean it? The tuning thread is good, but just run the press first, check the timing, get that on, dont try to fix it until its broke. When that doesnt work, then look into the tuning thread. Look for 76Highboy Reloading on Youtube. His older videos are pretty much the gold standard for LnL setup. The only thing he doesnt cover is the case feeder. |
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Big Red is sending me some parts so I guess I'll stay but I Still need to read the fine tune thread.
Going there now. Thanks for the help and pron! |
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Thanks again Kaldor.
I finally found the thread but didn't find much that applied to me(on the first page). When you say chamfer the front of the primer slide do you mean the bottom? Mine have always hung up on the primer punch. When I was talking to the CS guy he keeps correcting my verbiage. I'm looking for a CS position myself and sure as shit I won't be talking down to my customers! He informed me it was dragging due to the spring under the sub plate, around the primer disposal tube. That will just about fix me up! Years ago when you called they'd throw all kinds of stuff in the box for you but not anymore. Thanks everyone for the comments. My buddy has a fully self feeding 650 and a 550 with a casefeeder. He's always telling me to come to the blue side but he makes 150k/yr so we walk different paths both shoot at the same club! |
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Just sold my LNL w/ case feeder setup.
Ordering a 650 this weekend. I better not regret it. *my LNL worked good, just got tired of the caliber switch over puzzle of what of this/what of that game. Got worse with the case feeder. The 650 is a big investment compared, but I'm doing it right and will have a dedicated everything for each caliber. |
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I have a LNL w/case feeder and a Dillon RL1050 Like them both.
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I bought a used Dillon SDB in the EE and used 650 locally. Both are awesome and crank out really nice ammo. I couldn't be happier with them.
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The only answer is when Dillon makes their own bullet feeder. The estimate on when that will happen. NEVER. So never is when I will have a Dillon on my bench. Now for those of you that want to turn your Dillon into a Mutt, Go a head and add a Mr. bullet feeder. But just remember you no longer have a Dillon. You have a MUTT.
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My LnL AP originally had the wire ejector, but I got the upgrade kit and now it's "EZ-Ject". I had to have some older shell plates modified (not expensive) by Hornady for compatibility.
I've never had real issues with my press. It's important to make sure the shell plate drive is centered, and that the advance pawls are properly tweaked to move the plate at the right time. Adjusting the pawls isn't a "one and done" thing - they wear and may need attention now and then. And those zerks aren't there for show! Grease them and you'll get much smoother and more consistent functioning. |
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The only answer is when Dillon makes their own bullet feeder. The estimate on when that will happen. NEVER. So never is when I will have a Dillon on my bench. Now for those of you that want to turn your Dillon into a Mutt, Go a head and add a Mr. bullet feeder. But just remember you no longer have a Dillon. You have a MUTT. View Quote I suspect you have that many Hornady's on your bench because they are a PITA to tweak to get working for a caliber. With my 1050 and 550, I put a new toolhead and shell holder on and swap a few case feed parts. No tweaking needed. They just work. When I owned a LNL (for a few years), I constantly fought with it. I could get one caliber working perfect after a lot of trouble. Then when I was done running it, I was back to the beginning with a new caliber. I actually bought a second LNL to setup for 223 only. I will agree, Hornady CS has treated me better than Dillon CS (mainly because they treat 1050 owners like we are crooks trying to steal from them). But the Hornady press is just not for everyone. Keep this in mind when comparing the presses... there are many autodrives made for Dillon presses. Forgive me if I am wrong but how often does one buy an autodrive for a LNL? Not very often. Why? Just not reliable enough in my experience. That said, I do miss a few things about the LNL. The PM is better IMO. The bushings are easier to store compared to a toolhead.. but that's about it. I am glad there are a variety of presses. It is free market at its best. Competition keeps the Dillon prices down. |
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Now for those of you that want to turn your Dillon into a Mutt, Go a head and add a Mr. bullet feeder. But just remember you no longer have a Dillon. You have a MUTT. View Quote My Rockwell drill press has a Jacobs chuck. Is it a mutt? If you put a Leer canopy on your pickup is it a mutt too? And for what it's worth Dillon sells the MBF. It's right there in their catalog. So Dillon must not think it's a bad accessory. |
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That's just retarded. My Rockwell drill press has a Jacobs chuck. Is it a mutt? If you put a Leer canopy on your pickup is it a mutt too? And for what it's worth Dillon sells the MBF. It's right there in their catalog. So Dillon must not think it's a bad accessory. View Quote Now as far as Dillon selling the MBF. The local thief will sell you the car he just stole but that doesn't make him a car dealership. |
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Yes your drill is a mutt. No your pick up is not a mutt. But if you put a Chevy bed on a Ford pickup, yes that is a mutt. Now as far as Dillon selling the MBF. The local thief will sell you the car he just stole but that doesn't make him a car dealership. View Quote The reason Dillon sells the mbf is because it works, why spend the time and money R&Ding to reinvent the wheel. Hornady's case feeder is far from faults, I hated mine for quiet a while until I adjusted it to actually work. Hornady's solutions are comical. Cases fall out of the top of the feeder going into the drop tube. "Tape a business card over the opening" My LNL served me well for 5 years and 10's k of rounds loaded and processed. But it's far from perfect, just because Hornady makes add-on's doesn't make it the best option. After adding the case feeder and dealing with the frustration with it, the Hornady bullet feeder got axed from my press upgrade. |
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You have posted this before. It didn't make sense then and it don't make sense now. MBF is so much better than the Hornady BF. You can't improve on it. So, Dillon doesn't bother. I suspect you have that many Hornady's on your bench because they are a PITA to tweak to get working for a caliber. With my 1050 and 550, I put a new toolhead and shell holder on and swap a few case feed parts. No tweaking needed. They just work. When I owned a LNL (for a few years), I constantly fought with it. I could get one caliber working perfect after a lot of trouble. Then when I was done running it, I was back to the beginning with a new caliber. I actually bought a second LNL to setup for 223 only. I will agree, Hornady CS has treated me better than Dillon CS (mainly because they treat 1050 owners like we are crooks trying to steal from them). But the Hornady press is just not for everyone. Keep this in mind when comparing the presses... there are many autodrives made for Dillon presses. Forgive me if I am wrong but how often does one buy an autodrive for a LNL? Not very often. Why? Just not reliable enough in my experience. That said, I do miss a few things about the LNL. The PM is better IMO. The bushings are easier to store compared to a toolhead.. but that's about it. I am glad there are a variety of presses. It is free market at its best. Competition keeps the Dillon prices down. View Quote Now I would like to make a point on your auto drive. I can run 100 in 6 min. Do I need to go faster? Now my turn. How many times have you heard folks saying they sent their Dillon back for a rebuild? Hornady has the same thing. But you never hear of anyone sending a Hornady back for a rebuild. Is Hornady built better? |
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Regarding the "Mutt" label, ever hear of manufacturers such as TRW, Goodyear, Pirelli, Pininfarina, Ghia, Bosch, Mahle, or Kolbenschmidt- that supply parts to the auto manufacturers ????? Use of vendor supplied parts does not make something a mutt. If so, then your showroom-new Ford, Chevy, Porsche or Ferrari is a "mutt".
Dillon is a first-class operation and has earned their fine reputation. If they sell a bullet feeder made by another manufacturer, you can bet it is good stuff. I have been using Dillon products (2-650's now 3-1050's) for over 20 years and could not ask for a better product or customer support. |
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Thank you for your concern on the timing of my presses. They work just fine. Now I would like to make a point on your auto drive. I can run 100 in 6 min. Do I need to go faster? Now my turn. How many times have you heard folks saying they sent their Dillon back for a rebuild? Hornady has the same thing. But you never hear of anyone sending a Hornady back for a rebuild. Is Hornady built better? View Quote |
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I've never had real issues with my press. It's important to make sure the shell plate drive is centered, and that the advance pawls are properly tweaked to move the plate at the right time. Adjusting the pawls isn't a "one and done" thing - they wear and may need attention now and then. And those zerks aren't there for show! Grease them and you'll get much smoother and more consistent functioning. View Quote |
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There are a few things that cause the pawls to wear. One is dragging shell plates - which could be from a dirty plate or from case rim variations. Another is incomplete operation of the ram. This happened to me because my output bin bracket, as provided by Hornady, was bent just wrongly enough to keep the sub-plate from going all the way down without resistance. That little bit of resistance messed up a few things, like my priming system timing. Once I got the bracket re-bent correctly, that straightened out.
Pawl wear isn't going to suddenly show up. Mine started to ever so slightly under-rotate the plate on the downstroke, which led to timing issues, particularly with the case feeder. A loose shell plate retaining screw can also give you this indication, by the way. So after I fixed the retention issue with a split washer and still had off-timing, I went back to basics and found that the downstroke pawl was shinier than the other one... Hmmm, what makes oxide-treated steel look shiny? Wear. I adjusted it and all became well. I did notice though that it helps to lube the pawls a little, so each can move smoothly in its space as the other pawl works. And it's always a good idea to inspect functional parts to make sure they stay functional, so even if your pawls don't need to be tweaked for proper timing, keeping an eye on them will help avoid surprises like broken or chipped pawls. |
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The problem is not in the star gear or pawl contact points that is rapidly wearing, but the through channel in the bottom of the ram for the drive shaft that is wearing instead.
Note, short of a crash that someone is trying to brute force through. Hornady did not use a replaceable bushing for this bearing contact area, and as the star gear is being pushed fore and aft on the drive shaft, this cause the drive shaft to egg wear the through channel to allow the entire drive shaft to be able to be pushed more fore and after in the channel with the star gear in tow, causing all the need for the pawl readjustments instead. Worse yet, most will not take the time to pull the machine down to this point to clean and re-grease the contact parts of the shaft to bottom of ram through channel say every 10k rounds, causing the faster wear as well. |
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The lack of replaceable bearings at both ends of the shaft is something that's troubled me. I'm not sure whether the shaft or the ram itself will wear faster or worse, but it'll be a royal PITA to replace either one due to wear. So far I haven't been able to spend the time to research whether some sort of standard bearing is a potential solution to this.
I'll go not too far out on a limb to say that neither the Dillon 650 nor the Hornady Lock N Load AP are designed or built for "production level" loading the way the Dillon 1050 is. But in examining the 650's parts breakdown, they have handled all this stuff already, like indexing at the platform level rather than at the bottom of the ram. |
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Some Dilllon 1050 advantages:
Shellplate does not move vertically. Feeding cases into it is simplified greatly, with a simple shuttle block. No upper frame to block view/access of brass Positive alignment of shellplate, primer shuttle block, and lower frame helps ensure reliable priming Primer seating depth is adjustable and consistent. Ammo looks factory primed. |
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Advantages of the 1050, it has a swager as one of the stations, and solve a lot of problems with pick up brass that the primer pocket may still be crimped.
Also robust too, so will last most non-comercial reloading well more than a life time before they wear out the major parts like the ram and body to have to worry about a warranty. The disadvantage on the 1050 over a 650, gets expensive as fuck really quick as you start building up separate loaded tool heads (just the 1050 tool head itself is $200, while the 650 tool head is $26 instead), and if you have to change the machine out from the primer/swager size its set up in, to the other primer/swager size instead, lets just say bring a snack since you still have some tweaking to do to get the primer punch/swager set correctly again as well. Fact is, the whole getting the primer and swager reset from small to large and back again for another caliber is such a choir, that most that run 1050's, just get a second machine to leave them set up each in both small and large swager/primer sizes instead. Or once the machine is set up for a swage/primer size, run ammo batches by the thousands in that primer size before they even think about swapping out the bottom end again. |
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My LnL AP originally had the wire ejector, but I got the upgrade kit and now it's "EZ-Ject". I had to have some older shell plates modified (not expensive) by Hornady for compatibility. I've never had real issues with my press. It's important to make sure the shell plate drive is centered, and that the advance pawls are properly tweaked to move the plate at the right time. Adjusting the pawls isn't a "one and done" thing - they wear and may need attention now and then. And those zerks aren't there for show! Grease them and you'll get much smoother and more consistent functioning. View Quote My press runs pretty doggone good too; I just think Hornadys CS has taken a step or two down but they are shipping my parts out. Thank you. |
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I had a 550B for 10 years. Called them once and the broken part was to me at no charge within a week. Sold it for more than I paid for it in one day. Bought a 650XL. Called them once and the part was to me at no charge.
I recommend the 650 with case feeder. |
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For the money the Hornady LNL AP can't be beat.
This guy shows you what you need to do for it to run smoothly and how to properly tune the press. Hornady LNL AP Press Set Up Hints and Tricks, Part 1 |
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For the money the Hornady LNL AP can't be beat. This guy shows you what you need to do for it to run smoothly and how to properly tune the press. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qC1O5FzSCA View Quote This is the huge rub between a LNL and 650, since the 650 case feed system works very well, while the LNL case feed system is just like the rest of the machine, requiring a hell of lot of adjustments and tweaks to not only get it first to run correctly, but keep is running correctly as well. So to sum it up, 650 with case feeder, and LNL with case feeder are close to the same amount of money to begin with. The difference, the 650 will run right out of the box once you adjust it the first time, while the LNL is going to need a lot of tweaks and adjustments to not only get it to first run, but keep it running as well. Truth is, if you are not going to use a case feeder, then the RCBS 2000 is a hell of lot better and safer machine than the LNL. If you want case feeding, then you want the 650 isntead. Hence, everyone sees the low price of the LNL without case feeder and why they buy it to begin with. For slower loading, and the fact that is can have you chasing your tail from time to time to keep it running, they will stick with the machine for this slower pace of reloading. Its when its time to add a case feeder to the LNL, and pick up the pace on the machine, that you run into the hurdles of the LNL that only tweaking the system with mods can over come, and where the 650 out of the box that runs without mods makes more sense isntead. So to sum it up, if one has reached to the point that they are going to run a case feeder, needs the quicker reloading pace, then it time to sell the LNL, move to a 650 instead. As for jumping to a 1050 at that point instead, whole different ball game, since you better have money to burn (not the reason that picked up the LNL in the first place), and plan on dropping close to $4k in the machine/parts (including trimmer and trim dies) for just a few calibers to get you started instead. Truth is, most that pick up a 1050 are way out-gunning their needs to begin with, and most end up selling the 1050 to go back to a 650 isntead. Hence the over all cost of 650, verses the 1050 when you have both set up, is less than half the cost. As I pointed out, just a tool head for a 1050 is $200, while a tool head for a 650 is only $26 instead. Add in the fact that is a PITA to change out primer/swager to go from small to large and back on the 1050, and if someone was just loading say 1K or smaller lots of ammo per sitting that requires a primerwswager size changes as well, the 1050 really makes not sense for them isntead. |
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Truth is, most that pick up a 1050 are way out-gunning their needs to begin with, and most end up selling the 1050 to go back to a 650 isntead. Hence the over all cost of 650, verses the 1050 when you have both set up, is less than half the cost. As I pointed out, just a tool head for a 1050 is $200, while a tool head for a 650 is only $26 instead. Add in the fact that is a PITA to change out primer/swager to go from small to large and back on the 1050, and if someone was just loading say 1K or smaller lots of ammo per sitting that requires a primerwswager size changes as well, the 1050 really makes not sense for them isntead. View Quote I don't know of a single one that has gone backwards and all wish they had bought it sooner. |
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Long time RCBS Pro 2000 user, and I added a Dillon XL650 to the reloading bench. I'm glad that I did purchase the 650 because it's wonderful to reload on. I have yet to try the Dillon customer service, but if it's anything like the tech department, taking the time to answer my questions prior to it's purchase, I would assume it's awesome.
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The only answer is when Dillon makes their own bullet feeder. The estimate on when that will happen. NEVER. So never is when I will have a Dillon on my bench. Now for those of you that want to turn your Dillon into a Mutt, Go a head and add a Mr. bullet feeder. But just remember you no longer have a Dillon. You have a MUTT. View Quote |
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I loaded 300rds of .40 this weekend on my new 650, it's hands down a better machine than the LNL was. I loaded 5-6years on my LNL, processed thousands of pieces of brass, loaded thousands a year and never had it run as smooth as my new unfimiliar press(650) did. I had ZERO stoppages, which never happened on my LNL.
My mini breakdown. The LNL w/o case feed is a good machine at a good price point. With case feed, it's not. The Dillon 650 is simply nicer, the case feeder is insanely quiet, works flawlessly(no cases jamming) the rest of the press is just better designed, built and executed. In short, I'm glad I started on the LNL AP because it really makes me appreciate my new 650 that much more. |
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The wire ejector never worked for me. I used Hornady progressives since the first model came out (late '70s?) and was always happy with them, but I was never happy with the case ejector until the EZject. Never an issue to me, I just flicked the round out of the shell plate as I went to get a bullet and case to place on the press--it just became automatic.
I am surprised they didn't just send you the shim (you know you can make your own, right? You might want to read "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Repair"), but it only solves the problem if the bushing is coming loose (not the die) and other solutions are to try a couple of other bushings and find one with a slightly larger o-ring or to torque down the busing a bit more. I have never had any bushing come loose EXCEPT the powder measure bushing and that is because the measure is so tall and top heavy. For me, the solution was simply to change the bushing and I never had the problem again. Believe me, I have had as many problems with Dillon as Hornady. >The Dillon 650 is simply nicer, the case feeder is insanely quiet, works flawlessly(no cases jamming) Wow, that's not like any 650 I have used. It is just as noisy as any other collator I have used and it jams just as often. You must have one that was blessed. |
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I bought a LnL AP. I didn't cry and am happy. I don't find myself thinking "if I only spent just a little more I'd have a better press", as I think the LnL AP is a good press.
Like any machine, it has its nuances you need to learn. For example, keep canned air nearby, and occasionally spray out stray powder from the primer shuttle, to keep it running smooth. Sometimes this is once every couple hundred rounds sometimes it's a lot more often, depends on the powder. I've found if you spray graphite as a lube (like those cans of key-lock lube) onto the parts, you'll get a dry coating of graphite that's chemically compatible with everything, that keeps things running well. Don't know anything about case feeders. I reload a lot, but I like handling my cases manually and find the grab and insert step is one more QC check moment for me, so I don't mind. As to prawls, I don't find myself having to adjust them. I had to when I first got it, as things were settling in, but they haven't been touched in many thousands of rounds. As to rebuilds, Hornady will absolutely do a free press rebuild, and they'll pay your shipping too. They rebuilt my single stage and my AP for me. I probably had well over 50,000 strokes on each press by then. Probably WELL over that. Nothing wrong with Dillon - good machines, but there's more than a few people who've run both, and if you hide the receipts from them, not all of them will choose Dillon over Hornady. In the end, they're both good machines. Buy Dillon if it has features you like, but don't be so sure that just because it's more expensive, it's the better machine. The good news is there really isn't any dumb decision, you'll likely be happy with either. |
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I'm already deep into Hornady but after getting off the phone with a tech I'm thinking they are beginnng to start to cheap out. They've always, in my estimation, been quick to ship out parts for free and I be heard it mentioned here as well but I think those times may be coming to an end. I called and asked for a shim because my seating die is rotating out of place during regular press operation. The tech told me that that's not what it's used for. It should only be used with the powder dispenser. I also mentioned my press was originally an "eject by wire" and he says "wow, that has is old." Then why the fuck is he telling me how stuff is supposed to work? So different from my last 10 calls. View Quote Blue koolaid is BEST koolaid. |
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I bought a LnL AP. I didn't cry and am happy. I don't find myself thinking "if I only spent just a little more I'd have a better press", as I think the LnL AP is a good press. Like any machine, it has its nuances you need to learn. For example, keep canned air nearby, and occasionally spray out stray powder from the primer shuttle, to keep it running smooth. Sometimes this is once every couple hundred rounds sometimes it's a lot more often, depends on the powder. I've found if you spray graphite as a lube (like those cans of key-lock lube) onto the parts, you'll get a dry coating of graphite that's chemically compatible with everything, that keeps things running well. Don't know anything about case feeders. I reload a lot, but I like handling my cases manually and find the grab and insert step is one more QC check moment for me, so I don't mind. As to prawls, I don't find myself having to adjust them. I had to when I first got it, as things were settling in, but they haven't been touched in many thousands of rounds. As to rebuilds, Hornady will absolutely do a free press rebuild, and they'll pay your shipping too. They rebuilt my single stage and my AP for me. I probably had well over 50,000 strokes on each press by then. Probably WELL over that. Nothing wrong with Dillon - good machines, but there's more than a few people who've run both, and if you hide the receipts from them, not all of them will choose Dillon over Hornady. In the end, they're both good machines. Buy Dillon if it has features you like, but don't be so sure that just because it's more expensive, it's the better machine. The good news is there really isn't any dumb decision, you'll likely be happy with either. View Quote |
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I have the LnL. I wish I had bought the Dillon. I'm too deep into it now and can't afford the change. At least I fixed my ejection issues. The case feeder is damn near a lost cause.
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Dryflash3 I didn't know I was breaking any rule. I was just trying to help. But with the part you cut out it makes me look like an A hole. Could you just remove the entire post?
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1 thing I did with my LNL to keep powder out of the primer shuttle was move it to station 3, case expansion in 2. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I bought a LnL AP. I didn't cry and am happy. I don't find myself thinking "if I only spent just a little more I'd have a better press", as I think the LnL AP is a good press. Like any machine, it has its nuances you need to learn. For example, keep canned air nearby, and occasionally spray out stray powder from the primer shuttle, to keep it running smooth. Sometimes this is once every couple hundred rounds sometimes it's a lot more often, depends on the powder. I've found if you spray graphite as a lube (like those cans of key-lock lube) onto the parts, you'll get a dry coating of graphite that's chemically compatible with everything, that keeps things running well. Don't know anything about case feeders. I reload a lot, but I like handling my cases manually and find the grab and insert step is one more QC check moment for me, so I don't mind. As to prawls, I don't find myself having to adjust them. I had to when I first got it, as things were settling in, but they haven't been touched in many thousands of rounds. As to rebuilds, Hornady will absolutely do a free press rebuild, and they'll pay your shipping too. They rebuilt my single stage and my AP for me. I probably had well over 50,000 strokes on each press by then. Probably WELL over that. Nothing wrong with Dillon - good machines, but there's more than a few people who've run both, and if you hide the receipts from them, not all of them will choose Dillon over Hornady. In the end, they're both good machines. Buy Dillon if it has features you like, but don't be so sure that just because it's more expensive, it's the better machine. The good news is there really isn't any dumb decision, you'll likely be happy with either. M$-AR: I did the same, powder drop in 3 for rifle and pistol, but honestly I dont spill that much powder and if you are, what are they doing wrong? I wonder about the guys that have alot of issues with the primer slides if they are dry tumbling and they are getting corncob dust built up in that channel? Both are great presses. I get tired of the "well mine is better than yours" and wish people would take an objective look at each press. My biggest ding on the Hornady? The case feeder. It took me a long time to get mine running as well as it does. The biggest downside I see with the Dillon when I buy one? Feeds a primer whether there is a case there or not but on a production press who cares. Honestly both presses are good, but they excel at their own things. |
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