Wondering if the dillon super swage is gonna be the tool I need?  I got about 4000 cases that have been cleaned and now I need to remove the primer crimp.  I don't wanna use a die swage in my press because I have the luxury of doing this at my work in my spare time so I want something mobile, hence the super swage as it seems to get rave reviews.

I don't see my self using my case prep center to do this kind of volume and there are several different headstamps in the lot.  Does the dillon need any kind of adjustment for the various headstamps or is it just "set it and forget it"

Also, any kind of lube necessary when using the dillon?

People will tell you that it needs to be adjusted for different headstamps because of different web thicknesses, I've found there's a middle ground that works well enough for mixed brass.
ETA: yes some are just too short where nothing happens, set them aside and adjust later for those ones.

I have one.  If a doofus like me can work it, it's a good tool.

Easy to use, easy to adjust if necessary.  Get one.

The Dillon Super swage is a great tool that works very good, especially for high volume. You can pick up a primer pocket go/no go swage gauge from ballistic tools that will help you dial in your Dillon SS. You adjust your Dillon SS by screwing in the Allen screw in the back of the locator rod to increase the amount of swage, I turn the Allen screw in a little at a time stopping every quarter of a turn or so and swaging a piece of brass and then checking it with the swage gauge, I continue this until the go gauge will insert into the primer pocket and then I lock this setting in by tightening the lock nut on the back of the locator rod. I find once properly adjusted I rarely ever have to adjust it, even when swaging mixed brass. It's a great tool.

I've never actually heard of this tool but just checked it out and looks pretty clever.  Probably have to get one of these the same time I order my SS since its cheap

I separate brass by head stamp and pay attention when I change from one to the other and adjust the swage if needed.  I also like to keep head stamps the same from that point on and load and store in the same group that way I can make site adjustments within the group if needed.  OCD I guess. I usually end up with 2-4 different and a catch all group.  For what thats worth. lol

If you load a lot of Lake City brass it's a "must have".

I've never had any issues with mine. Works great. There is an insert made by a company that you can install that helps to align the brass better.

I'll look it up or maybe someone knows what I am talking about and can post it.

I've used one for many years.  It's a great tool for swaging primer pockets.  My solution to the varying thickness issue was to just leave the nut off and adjust it as needed.

To clarify, "mixed" headstamp doesnt mean different years of LC brass.. At least not in my experience. LC is LC. TAA is TAA. My last batch of 556 was just those two. I seperated the two and adjusted as needed.

Rim thickness varies from brand to brand, period!
Consistent swaging is only achieved with setting up to adapt to the various brands.
And, to have hiccup when loading progressively is not good!

I have one it works great for swagging crimps just keep it clean and it will run like a dream.  I ran into problems where it would get out of alignment and i used a piece of tape and never had the problem again.  

<snip> no sales allowed in threads. COC Specific to sales #2 if you want to look it up. dryflash3

There is an adjusting screw on the side to loosen the plate that holds the case base at the proper height.  Loosen the screw, set a case in the slot and cycle the swage carefully so that the swage is seated in the primer pocket, then tighten the screw and you're ready to rock.  Also, adding the spring return mod speeds up and smooths out the processing of the brass to the point that I can do 1,000 pieces of 5.56 in right at 1 hour.  All without any sore fingers or drill bit shavings.

Mine before the spring return mod mounted on a plate to hold my brass.

No thanks,  I don't like the horizontal lever action of it.  Feel like it would have more fatigue vs the Dillon

this is how i do it. I like to make ammo so each stage of the process is enjoyable.

Thanks for the tip if i run into the problem again i'll def take your advice but so far so good and i did thousands and thousands of rds through it so far and no problems at all with all different head stamps.
BTW i got mine used with no manual or anything still don't really know how to change it out to large primer pockets lol.

You'll need part #13129 and #13201

http://www.dillonprecision.com/super-swage-600-parts_8_8_25290.html

This.  I may miss one or two and have to do them with a hand reamer, but sometimes you can tell right at the swager.  

I mostly use it for .223 and .300 because that is where I do my major volume.  I just do .308 by hand.

I had a dillon, sold it.

I use mixed HS all the time and tried as another poster said "to find a middle ground", never could.

I gave up and now ream them with the hornady reamer.

Much happier since I switched.

I actually think I'm gonna try the reamer first since its so cheap.  Don't wanna drop 120 bucks on something and not like it, even though I'm sure I could sell it.

I wish someone would make a primer pocket reamer similar to how the Little Crow Gunwork's WFT operates but only for primer pockets and aligned the case square to the reamer.  Something I could chuck in a drill press and go, I'd buy one...

I recently purchased a Dillon Super Swage and so far am liking it very much, compared to the swaging dies from RCBS that I have been using.  I reload on a Rock Chucker IV, (My first and only press) and approach in batches.  Someone asked about properly aligning brass and I purchased an insert from Here. (I have no affiliation with this company, just a satisfied customer)  With the first few I tried before buying the insert, I had to adjust to find the right depth, and tried going to fast and crunched a case.  I stopped and bought the insert and everything has been going well since.  I've done 1500 cases the past two nights.

I have yet to come up with a spring or rubberband modification for quicker release, but like I mentioned earlier, I do things in batches so I'm happy with it as is.  Oh, I also mounted to my bench to allow it to "cam over".  The action to swage is pushing the lever down, away from the brass, which pushes the swager into the brass.  I'm currently designing a new box to mount it to and will keep it off the bench until needed.

I've found removing primer crimps to be such a pain.  I bought a Dillon Super Swager 600 years ago and could never get it adjusted properly.  Gave up, sold it and decided to ream or use commercial cases for the little rifle reloading I was doing.  I was given a Dillon swager years later and couldn't get it adjusted properly either. Sold it and decided to keep reaming.  I recently got back into reloading .223 and 300 Blackout and started reaming - but now my hands can't handle all the reaming effort.  I just bought a new Dillon swager from a guy cheap and am determined to make it work.  It is working okay with the few cases I've tried.  I've searched the internet for different tips and tricks - even wrote Dillon.  Dillon tech said you just have to use trial and error by swaging a case then trying to seat a primer.  I didn't find any great tips and tricks on the internet.  I did discover a primer pocket "Swage Gauge" that is supposed to help you determine if you have swaged enough without the trial and error of seating primers. I ordered one immediately. Here's the website: https://ballistictools.com/store/swage-gage-small-primer-pocket . If it works it will be one of the best ways I have ever spent $11.99!

The difficulty is setting the swager up to swage just enough crimp away to allow a primer to seat without deforming.  To little swage and the primer gets deformed. Too much swage and the primer pocket is loose and/or the case locator rod deforms the case web and bottom of primer pocket.  Additionally, cases vary in case web width and flash hole uniformity so the locator rod has to be adjusted for different brands and lots of brass.  I'm not sure why I have such a hard time adjusting it properly.

I'm determined to make the Dillon swager work for me this time.  It is such a well-made quality tool and great concept. Fast and easy to remove the crimps of a great quantity of brass.

Paid a pretty penny for my Dillon swage...need help with the set-up maybe?

Had my super sewage for 9 odd years. Did the job for me when I was using mil brass for my culling guns.

I have mine screwed to a 2x4 and a extention spring goes on the rod and screwed to the 2x4 also. Have a big box and a towel in it to catch the rounds flying off it. So I only need to put the case on and hold it down. Swage and let go, pick up new case and do it again.

Lately I haven't bothered with it much as I don't do the cases I use to do I just get out my small countersink (6mm ) chuck it in the drill press and remove the crimp that way.

I received my Ballistic Tools Swage Gage this afternoon and it does appear to be one best ways I've spent $11.99! I observed how the GO side of the Swage Gage entered and fit the primer pocket of a brand new piece of brass and it was right on. I swaged and made adjustments using a few Barnes 300 BLK cases until the GO end of the Swage Gage would just enter the primer pockets with little resistance. I then swaged 17 more cases at that setting.  After the other case prep chores, I primed all 20 cases with CCI 450 primers. The primers all seated as smoothly as they would have in the primer pockets of commercial cases. The seating feel was very uniform. Not too tight or loose. Just right.

It was great not to have to go through the trial and error of seating and wasting primers to adjust the Dillon Super Swage. I now believe I will be able to quickly set up the Dillon Swage to work consistently.

It is recommended to sort brass by brand or headstamp and remove any flash hole burrs before swaging for the most uniform results.