I'm looking to place a quantity order for powder, and I want one for 10MM. I'd like a powder that is good for medium to a little better than medium velocity loads. Think the weak sauce factory loads to something less than Buffalo Bore. We have been using Ten X reloads (out of CA I think).

So here's some info to help you help me.

Who:
My wife. She likes steel shoots and the occasional IPSC match. She has pretty much left her 686s for the G20.

Guns:
Glock 20 gen 2+3, Colt Delta Elite (The Colt is a safe queen)

Uses:
Steel matches and other action type shoots, plinking, and self defense (factory ammo for this)

Equipment:
Dillon 1050 (the older one not the super)

Projectiles:
Cheapest available. 180 grain seems right. She goes through ammo. Are Berry's good to go in 10MM? I'd consider swapping out the barrels and going with cast lead.

So I need a powder that meters well in a progressive press, can produce consistent loads from medium to warm velocities, and burns reasonably clean in non-comped pistols. Bonus if I can load 40 short and weak with it too.

Thanks for your help.

Given your criteria, I would recommend Unique.

Some here have said Unique doesn't meter well, but I've never had that impression.

There is only One Powder for the 10mm, and it's name is Blue Dot.  

When I finish up my ancient blue dot (as in Hercules, BD) I'm going to give BE-86 a try.  It's supposed to be similar to power pistol with a bit of flash suppressant and it is supposed to meter well.

I have some on order, but I have not rec'd or tried it out yet.

New to the 10mm world, shooting 180 gr plated bullets from Rocky Mountain Reloading

Yep

Although PP is good also.

Being that my favorite powder, Blue Dot, is hard to find here, I have switched to HS-6 for all of my 10mm reloads.  Being that we shoot a lot of ammo, I have been loading 165 and 180 grain bullets from X-Terme.
Not sure if that helps any but after loading several thousands of bullets, no issues!

Probably gonna be hard to find but Vihtavuori 3N37 is awesome stuff. Meters great and very low ES even duplicating some FPS numbers in my 9mm load testing.
Given the burn rate Silhouette might be worth looking at, although I admit I've not used it.

Accurate #7 is what you seek, and is in stock at Mid-South.

Ball powder that meters very well and has low blast and flash compared to Blue Dot and will also work with the .40 S&W with heavier bullets.

Accurate #7 is a good choice for what he is after, good call.

I also like Silhouette, in fact Silhouette has replaced #7 as my go to powder for the 10.

Cheap bullets...

Get HI-TEK coated lead.

Lots of lead bullet manufacturers are offering the coated bullets now.

Before I coated my own, I was a big fan of Bayou Bullets.

I've been using Blue Dot, with 165gr xtreme plated bullets. in my G20, I'm getting about 1200fps with that combo.

Agreed.I just finally got a couple pounds after not being able to get it locally for over 2 years.



 

Why would anyone want to shoot medium power 10mm loads?  That's what a 40s&w load is and the brass is much, much cheaper as in free for the taking!!!!



All my 10mm handloads are full power loads shot in a 6" pistol barrel and as such my favorite powder is Power Pistol.  Much less blast, muzzle flip, and flash than Blue Dot in my pistol, more consistent high velocities, and more accurate at 200yd steel targets than Blue Dot in my custom G20L.

Because I can. 'Murica!!!

Actually, for several reasons:
* Over the long run, as in 10s of thousands of rounds, lighter loads for practice saves money.
* Wear and tear on the shooter is less with moderate/warm loads, rather than hot loads. My wife will run through between three and five hundred rounds in an afternoon of pistol practice. This may sound like a lot to some people, but if you use the training technique of starting your practice with intentionally slower/smoother runs on the steels and the plate rack to prove out your basics. Then gradually push for just a little more speed in each successive run while maintaining your good solid basic technique, you will go through some ammo. And she does, especially when you add in some mag change drills, El Presidentes and Bill Drills to change things up.
* As for how the difference between practice with lighter loads and serious shooting for, say varmint control may affect a persons ability to be accurate, it's been my experience that in the heat of the moment people don't even notice the hotter load. As long as there are not huge differences in bullet velocity, accuracy is not greatly influenced (poa vs poi).
* Brass and guns last longer at lower pressures. Cost savings.

And yes I have had to send her guns back to the mfgr because she wore them out. I've got one waiting to go back to Smith right now.

And yes I have considered buying her a G22, but she likes the way the G20 feels in her hand. She is fussy about grip feel. It took four sets of grips on her 686 until she was satisfied and the last set had to be custom fitted.

I like bluedot for 10mm. The new BE-86 looks promising.

Thank god my woman doesn't shoot that much or I'd be even more broke.

Would a 40SW drop in barrel work in a G20?  That way she could practice with cheaper ammo and still retain the larger G20 frame, with the ability to shoot 10mm whenever you want.

^not even sure I understand that statement

I've never tried a .40 barrel in my G20, but have run one in my G29.... turns it into a soft shooting .40.

Using BlueDot now, planning on testing some PowerPistol loads shortly.

~g

This!

I have no need for "medium" power loads in my 10mm. That's what my g22 or g35 are for.

Blue Dot, PP,  No7, and now I am trying CFE that I was testing in 40, looks promising in 10mm.

The truth is spoken above ^^

FYI
If you shoot a revolver enough there are a few points that can show enough wear to be a problem. Over time the forcing cone erodes along with the top strap. Wear can cause excessive end shake in the cylinder. Both of which can result in enlarged barrel/cylinder gap which wastes power of the burning powder and blows excessive gas out the sides. If you look at the ejector star on the back of the cylinder, the little teeth like bits that the pawl pushes on to index each chamber to the barrel will wear and cause timing issues. This leads to spitting lead out the barrel/cylinder gap, which really kills accuracy. Lots of wear points on a revolver.

I'm an old fart. I've personally only worn out two revolvers in my life. A Colt snubby I had for carry so it got shot a lot in practice, and a S&W 25-2 that I shot a lot of pin and steel shoots with. Mostly I've shot 1911s in competition. I can't remember how many sets of Pachmeyer grips I've worn out. My wife on the other hand, took a liking to revolvers so she shoots 'em a lot, and was never interested in autoloaders until I bought that damn Glock.

So, yeah, you can wear a gun out and need to get it reworked.

And thanks to all for the suggestions. It helps.

This may be the way to go.

Thank you.

AA 7

Ok, while I'm surely aware of the issue you mentioned as it relates to revolvers (although I've surely never experienced it, as revolvers are simply novelties in my world), it didn't seem relevant during a 10mm Glock conversation, as I doubt she would be capable of "wearing out" a Glock.... even in 10mm (if maintained correctly), surely an apples vs orange statement at best.

Not sure what the life cycle of her revolves have been (but curious)?

~g

Other than spring breakage and worn recoil assemblies, I've never heard of a Glock suffering from mechanical wear and tear to teh point it needs servicing.
AJE does have a 9mm Glock that he has basically obliterated the magwell on practicing speed reloads lol.

Back on topic, I'd still try to pick up a 40 barrel and try that.