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Posted: 1/12/2015 1:55:37 PM EDT
[#1]
If you have a set of 9mm dies, you could use the flaring die and seating die, however you would need a sizing die specific to .380.
357 and 38 can be reloaded with the same dies. **Be aware** you will need to reset your dies every single time you switch to the other caliber. Some manufacturers make a spacer for 38/357 that allows you to quickly change back and forth. This wouldn't be the case with .380 though. |
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Posted: 1/12/2015 4:26:32 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you have a set of 9mm dies, you could use the flaring die and seating die, however you would need a sizing die specific to .380. 357 and 38 can be reloaded with the same dies. **Be aware** you will need to reset your dies every single time you switch to the other caliber. Some manufacturers make a spacer for 38/357 that allows you to quickly change back and forth. This wouldn't be the case with .380 though. That makes sense. As you can tell, I'm still pretty green at this. Looks like I'll be buying 9 and .380 dies, but I'll definitely look into the .357/.38 dies with the spacer. Thanks for your help! |
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Posted: 1/12/2015 4:34:58 PM EDT
[#3]
Be sure to do some reading at the top of the page in the tacked threads.
Welcome to our hobby. 
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Posted: 1/13/2015 8:47:46 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Be sure to do some reading at the top of the page in the tacked threads. Welcome to our hobby. Thanks! Will do. I actually just noticed those, and I'm guessing by your post that my question was probably answered in there. 
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Posted: 1/13/2015 3:53:23 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks! Will do. I actually just noticed those, and I'm guessing by your post that my question was probably answered in there. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Be sure to do some reading at the top of the page in the tacked threads. Welcome to our hobby. Thanks! Will do. I actually just noticed those, and I'm guessing by your post that my question was probably answered in there. No, but some good info up there for a new reloader. If you read the front part of a reloading manual, it covers the reloading process very well. If you don't have one, I suggest Lyman 49, about $20. |
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Posted: 1/13/2015 9:15:07 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No, but some good info up there for a new reloader. If you read the front part of a reloading manual, it covers the reloading process very well. If you don't have one, I suggest Lyman 49, about $20. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Be sure to do some reading at the top of the page in the tacked threads. Welcome to our hobby. Thanks! Will do. I actually just noticed those, and I'm guessing by your post that my question was probably answered in there. No, but some good info up there for a new reloader. If you read the front part of a reloading manual, it covers the reloading process very well. If you don't have one, I suggest Lyman 49, about $20. Great info. Thanks! I may have been hanging out in GD too long... I guess I'm too used to getting smart-assed answers.  I believe I have that one, but I have always skipped to the back. I've had the advantage of having a fellow Arfcommer help me get set up, and showed me step by step on how to reload. I guess I should go back and try reading. I hear it is fundamental. 
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Posted: 1/13/2015 9:29:17 PM EDT
[#7]
One has to invest in yourself. And, by that I mean read quality material. Quality material does not come on the internet. Getting a few good reloading manuals and reading front portion of the manual several times.
While there is some that will improvise. Please get the right tools for the right job. There is nothing wrong with being frugal, but there is a false economy with many aspects of reloading. Do not get caught up with trying to keep up with the Jones! |
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Posted: 1/13/2015 11:30:56 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote Historysnip Great info. Thanks! I may have been hanging out in GD too long... I guess I'm too used to getting smart-assed answers. I believe I have that one, but I have always skipped to the back. I've had the advantage of having a fellow Arfcommer help me get set up, and showed me step by step on how to reload. I guess I should go back and try reading. I hear it is fundamental. Ya, the technical forums are great for learning. Glad you have a mentor. Share his screen name if he's ok with that.
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Posted: 1/16/2015 5:22:25 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
One has to invest in yourself. And, by that I mean read quality material. Quality material does not come on the internet. Getting a few good reloading manuals and reading front portion of the manual several times. While there is some that will improvise. Please get the right tools for the right job. There is nothing wrong with being frugal, but there is a false economy with many aspects of reloading. Do not get caught up with trying to keep up with the Jones! I never cared much about keeping up with the Jones, I just didn't want to buy extra dies if I didn't have to. |
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Posted: 1/16/2015 5:29:35 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ya, the technical forums are great for learning. Glad you have a mentor. Share his screen name if he's ok with that. Quote HistoryQuoted:
snip
Great info. Thanks! I may have been hanging out in GD too long... I guess I'm too used to getting smart-assed answers. I believe I have that one, but I have always skipped to the back. I've had the advantage of having a fellow Arfcommer help me get set up, and showed me step by step on how to reload. I guess I should go back and try reading. I hear it is fundamental. Ya, the technical forums are great for learning. Glad you have a mentor. Share his screen name if he's ok with that. Deadeye_Jack really hooked me up. He may be slightly retarded, but he knows his stuff. In all seriousness, there aren't many things I have questions about, that he doesn't know the answer to.
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Posted: 1/16/2015 6:12:32 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Deadeye_Jack really hooked me up. He may be slightly retarded, but he knows his stuff. In all seriousness, there aren't many things I have questions about, that he doesn't know the answer to.Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
snip
Great info. Thanks! I may have been hanging out in GD too long... I guess I'm too used to getting smart-assed answers. I believe I have that one, but I have always skipped to the back. I've had the advantage of having a fellow Arfcommer help me get set up, and showed me step by step on how to reload. I guess I should go back and try reading. I hear it is fundamental. Ya, the technical forums are great for learning. Glad you have a mentor. Share his screen name if he's ok with that. Deadeye_Jack really hooked me up. He may be slightly retarded, but he knows his stuff. In all seriousness, there aren't many things I have questions about, that he doesn't know the answer to.Stop it, you're making me blush! BTW- I'm not "slightly" retarded. I'm completely retarded, but like most everything else I'm just not very good at it.
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Posted: 1/16/2015 6:30:39 PM EDT
[#12]
Well done Deadeye_Jack, sharing our hobby and getting a guy started off right.
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Posted: 1/20/2015 9:42:07 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Stop it, you're making me blush! BTW- I'm not "slightly" retarded. I'm completely retarded, but like most everything else I'm just not very good at it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
snip
Great info. Thanks! I may have been hanging out in GD too long... I guess I'm too used to getting smart-assed answers. I believe I have that one, but I have always skipped to the back. I've had the advantage of having a fellow Arfcommer help me get set up, and showed me step by step on how to reload. I guess I should go back and try reading. I hear it is fundamental. Ya, the technical forums are great for learning. Glad you have a mentor. Share his screen name if he's ok with that. Deadeye_Jack really hooked me up. He may be slightly retarded, but he knows his stuff. In all seriousness, there aren't many things I have questions about, that he doesn't know the answer to.Stop it, you're making me blush! BTW- I'm not "slightly" retarded. I'm completely retarded, but like most everything else I'm just not very good at it. Maybe you are completely retarded, but when it comes to knowledge about guns and ammo, you're more autistic than retarded. Just messing with you, bro. Thanks a ton for helping me out!
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Posted: 1/22/2015 5:19:44 PM EDT
[#14]
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Posted: 1/22/2015 7:48:42 PM EDT
[#15]
Just figured that I would add something since the question was asked.
As said, .38/.357 use the same dies, but adjusted differently. There is a version from Lee that only works with .357/.357 Maximum so watch out for that. .380 acp and .223 use the same shell holder and the case diameter is the same to the length of the .380 case. So, you "can" use a .223 die to size the .380 brass if you lube it. The other 9mm dies work for powder charge and seating. I tried this while waiting for my .380 dies to arrive, but having the correct dies is much better. dryflash said it was a hobby, but you will discover it is more than just that. |
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Posted: 1/27/2015 9:20:34 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just figured that I would add something since the question was asked. As said, .38/.357 use the same dies, but adjusted differently. There is a version from Lee that only works with .357/.357 Maximum so watch out for that. .380 acp and .223 use the same shell holder and the case diameter is the same to the length of the .380 case. So, you "can" use a .223 die to size the .380 brass if you lube it. The other 9mm dies work for powder charge and seating. I tried this while waiting for my .380 dies to arrive, but having the correct dies is much better. dryflash said it was a hobby, but you will discover it is more than just that. Thanks for the info. Looks like I'll just be buying the separate dies. Obsession sounds like a better word than hobby. Seems like there is never enough time, for me at least.
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Posted: 1/28/2015 12:17:17 AM EDT
[#17]
as one whom reloads the 380 acp quite a bit I would highly recommend getting a set of dedicated 380 dies. It's as much about the finickiness of the 380 pistol as it is the bullet dimensions and cartridge dimensions. Not all things 380 are created equal.
I find that 380 reloading can be a bit more 'annoying' than other cartridges...not as bad as 32 auto....but in either cases the results can be well worth the effort. I cast my own and if you are a cheap bastard like me...well...this is a game changer for 380 work... As for 38 and 357? Well sir...I cant honestly say if handloading was made for the 38/357 or if the 38/357 was made for handloading...with practice you will find one die set is all you need with careful attention to detail...and you will find that handloading for this round will turn a fine round into an awesome round!!! good luck and have fun!!! |
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Posted: 2/23/2015 6:47:37 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for the info. Looks like I'll just be buying the separate dies. Obsession sounds like a better word than hobby. Seems like there is never enough time, for me at least. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Just figured that I would add something since the question was asked. As said, .38/.357 use the same dies, but adjusted differently. There is a version from Lee that only works with .357/.357 Maximum so watch out for that. .380 acp and .223 use the same shell holder and the case diameter is the same to the length of the .380 case. So, you "can" use a .223 die to size the .380 brass if you lube it. The other 9mm dies work for powder charge and seating. I tried this while waiting for my .380 dies to arrive, but having the correct dies is much better. dryflash said it was a hobby, but you will discover it is more than just that. Thanks for the info. Looks like I'll just be buying the separate dies. Obsession sounds like a better word than hobby. Seems like there is never enough time, for me at least. It's a skill. A potentially very useful one. Kinda like being able to rebuild an engine. You may enjoy doing it, but there could easily come a day when it's an extremely valuable bit of knowledge. |
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Posted: 3/27/2015 7:40:05 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
as one whom reloads the 380 acp quite a bit I would highly recommend getting a set of dedicated 380 dies. It's as much about the finickiness of the 380 pistol as it is the bullet dimensions and cartridge dimensions. Not all things 380 are created equal. I find that 380 reloading can be a bit more 'annoying' than other cartridges...not as bad as 32 auto....but in either cases the results can be well worth the effort. I cast my own and if you are a cheap bastard like me...well...this is a game changer for 380 work... As for 38 and 357? Well sir...I cant honestly say if handloading was made for the 38/357 or if the 38/357 was made for handloading...with practice you will find one die set is all you need with careful attention to detail...and you will find that handloading for this round will turn a fine round into an awesome round!!! good luck and have fun!!! Thanks for the info. Got a new .380 carbide set on the way. |
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Posted: 3/27/2015 7:41:18 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's a skill. A potentially very useful one. Kinda like being able to rebuild an engine. You may enjoy doing it, but there could easily come a day when it's an extremely valuable bit of knowledge. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Just figured that I would add something since the question was asked. As said, .38/.357 use the same dies, but adjusted differently. There is a version from Lee that only works with .357/.357 Maximum so watch out for that. .380 acp and .223 use the same shell holder and the case diameter is the same to the length of the .380 case. So, you "can" use a .223 die to size the .380 brass if you lube it. The other 9mm dies work for powder charge and seating. I tried this while waiting for my .380 dies to arrive, but having the correct dies is much better. dryflash said it was a hobby, but you will discover it is more than just that. Thanks for the info. Looks like I'll just be buying the separate dies. Obsession sounds like a better word than hobby. Seems like there is never enough time, for me at least. It's a skill. A potentially very useful one. Kinda like being able to rebuild an engine. You may enjoy doing it, but there could easily come a day when it's an extremely valuable bit of knowledge. Being useful will be a new addition to my set of skills.
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Posted: 3/28/2015 11:04:48 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Being useful will be a new addition to my set of skills. That's what my wife says about me too!  |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 10:03:20 AM EDT
[#22]
I went out to the shop yesterday, and found that I had hints of rust on my carbide dies. The shop is a 22x26 metal buildiing, has concrete floors, and has spray foam insulation from floor to ceiling. I thought it was sealed very well from moisture, but apparently not enough. I didn't even know that the carbide would rust (rookie mistake
). Anyone else have this issue or remedy for it?
I guess I'll construct a dry box, and put some desiccant in there for good measure. I am in Arkansas, and my weather station has recorded over 9 inches of rain since the end of February.
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Posted: 3/31/2015 10:45:36 AM EDT
[#23]
Buildings tend to 'sweat' with out some form of vent system in them. It would help to have a system/method to help remove moisture in the building. Many years ago when I moved all of my tools into an unheated garage, I found that they tended to have rust on them. I put a heater in there and kept the temp about 48 degrees and that helped a lot. Can you install some form of heat the help keep the temp constance?
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I went out to the shop yesterday, and found that I had hints of rust on my carbide dies. The shop is a 22x26 metal buildiing, has concrete floors, and has spray foam insulation from floor to ceiling. I thought it was sealed very well from moisture, but apparently not enough. I didn't even know that the carbide would rust (rookie mistake ). Anyone else have this issue or remedy for it?
I guess I'll construct a dry box, and put some desiccant in there for good measure. I am in Arkansas, and my weather station has recorded over 9 inches of rain since the end of February. |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 11:32:56 AM EDT
[#24]
10mm and .40 S&W also use the same dies, for what it's worth.
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Posted: 3/31/2015 11:47:07 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Buildings tend to 'sweat' with out some form of vent system in them. It would help to have a system/method to help remove moisture in the building. Many years ago when I moved all of my tools into an unheated garage, I found that they tended to have rust on them. I put a heater in there and kept the temp about 48 degrees and that helped a lot. Can you install some form of heat the help keep the temp constance? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Buildings tend to 'sweat' with out some form of vent system in them. It would help to have a system/method to help remove moisture in the building. Many years ago when I moved all of my tools into an unheated garage, I found that they tended to have rust on them. I put a heater in there and kept the temp about 48 degrees and that helped a lot. Can you install some form of heat the help keep the temp constance? Quoted:
I went out to the shop yesterday, and found that I had hints of rust on my carbide dies. The shop is a 22x26 metal buildiing, has concrete floors, and has spray foam insulation from floor to ceiling. I thought it was sealed very well from moisture, but apparently not enough. I didn't even know that the carbide would rust (rookie mistake ). Anyone else have this issue or remedy for it?
I guess I'll construct a dry box, and put some desiccant in there for good measure. I am in Arkansas, and my weather station has recorded over 9 inches of rain since the end of February. I have some space heaters in there, but didn't think to turn them on. I didn't notice any rust on them until lately, as the temperatures have started to warm up. All this spring rain and moisture in the air with rising and falling temps seem to be the factor that has changed. |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 11:48:24 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
10mm and .40 S&W also use the same dies, for what it's worth. That's good to know. Thanks. |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 12:13:31 PM EDT
[#27]
I found that the constant re-adjusting of dies makes it well worth buying separate ones for each caliber.
Light rust is easily taken care of with Evapo-rust. I can't remember where I got it, maybe an auto supply store, now also at HF. I just used it last night to clear up light rust on my Hornady LNL powder drop parts. You degrease and dip it for a few minutes, scrub and the rust is completely gone, leaving only a surface milkiness in it's wake. No metal is removed. Severe rust takes longer and leaves a darker color blotch in the previously rusted area. Light application of rust prevention lube might lengthen the time between treatments. |
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Posted: 3/31/2015 1:10:42 PM EDT
[#28]
This as I reload a lot of both 40 S&W and 10mm. I have found that it saves a lot of frustration to have two sets of dies, one set for each caliber.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's good to know. Thanks. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
10mm and .40 S&W also use the same dies, for what it's worth. That's good to know. Thanks. |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 8:31:45 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I found that the constant re-adjusting of dies makes it well worth buying separate ones for each caliber. Light rust is easily taken care of with Evapo-rust. I can't remember where I got it, maybe an auto supply store, now also at HF. I just used it last night to clear up light rust on my Hornady LNL powder drop parts. You degrease and dip it for a few minutes, scrub and the rust is completely gone, leaving only a surface milkiness in it's wake. No metal is removed. Severe rust takes longer and leaves a darker color blotch in the previously rusted area. Light application of rust prevention lube might lengthen the time between treatments. I have never heard of Evapo-rust. I shall have to look into that one. Thanks! |
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Posted: 4/1/2015 8:33:13 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This as I reload a lot of both 40 S&W and 10mm. I have found that it saves a lot of frustration to have two sets of dies, one set for each caliber. Quote HistoryQuoted:
This as I reload a lot of both 40 S&W and 10mm. I have found that it saves a lot of frustration to have two sets of dies, one set for each caliber. Quoted:
Quoted:
10mm and .40 S&W also use the same dies, for what it's worth. That's good to know. Thanks. That seems to be the consensus, and I'm now really starting to see the reasons why. |
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