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Posted: 10/20/2014 1:47:12 AM EDT
[#1]
De-crimping comes in two basic buckets.
One is to cut or deburr using a tool that resembles a counter sink cutter, and the other is to swage the upset using a die punch. Both are easy and depending on the set up, can be done quickly. Some progressive reloading machines have the swage built in and do this step automatically. Others set up using the ram of the press with tools that adapt to their format. Some are self contained dedicated tools, like the Dillon or RCBS. Cutting tools can be used by hand, or power driven. All the major reloading tool brands have a range of offerings from simple to complex. Here is a sample. http://www.sinclairintl.com/search/index.htm?k=primer+pocket+deburr&ksubmit=y http://www.midwayusa.com/find?userSearchQuery=Primer+Pocket+Deburr |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 8:19:42 AM EDT
[#2]
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Posted: 10/20/2014 8:40:32 AM EDT
[#3]
I'm sure it's not the ideal solution, but I just unscrew the cutter head from a lyman pocket reamer, http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1064643126/lyman-primer-pocket-reamer-tool?cm_vc=ProductFinding, and chuck it into a drill. You can blaze through cases as long as you don't overdue it.
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Posted: 10/20/2014 7:38:16 PM EDT
[#4]
Hornady primer pocket reamer head chucked in a drill, quick couple of spurts and primers seat and still tight.
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Posted: 10/20/2014 7:57:00 PM EDT
[#5]
I do not remove material from the primer pocket I use a swager.
Vince |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 7:58:43 PM EDT
[#6]
yep. I have a Dillon swage and a reamer... I usually just chuck the reamer up into a drill and have at it... habit maybe, I dunno. might sell my swage since I'm not using it too much.
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Posted: 10/20/2014 8:04:00 PM EDT
[#7]
Dillon swager modded with some string and a rubber band.
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Posted: 10/20/2014 8:31:46 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
yep. I have a Dillon swage and a reamer... I usually just chuck the reamer up into a drill and have at it... habit maybe, I dunno. might sell my swage since I'm not using it too much. Same here sold the Dillon and kept the Hornady, it's not going to remove enough brass to matter, the only time I swage is when I use the 1050 |
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Posted: 10/22/2014 11:37:18 PM EDT
[#9]
A simple #2 Phillips tip in the drill does the trick for me.
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Posted: 10/23/2014 12:50:13 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A simple #2 Phillips tip in the drill does the trick for me. This |
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Posted: 10/23/2014 8:22:06 AM EDT
[#11]
do it the right way and either get the $30 rcbs swagger or a dillon
this topic comes up at least once a week |
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Posted: 10/23/2014 3:57:56 PM EDT
[#12]
I think that before the arguing begins about method and brand names (as it always does), the first question that needs to be answered is about quantity.
If you run 1000 cases of once-fired at a time, then one of the faster methods would be called for and the price would probably be warranted. If doing just 100 or so at a time, then by all means, a Phillips #2 would do the trick. The only thing that is not usually a point of contention is the necessity of having to swage military brass before reloading. That's something that most people agree upon. But hell, someone will even argue about that just to be able to argue about something. ;) |
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Posted: 10/23/2014 4:16:53 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
A simple #2 Phillips tip in the drill does the trick for me. This When I first started reloading I actually used a torx bit for small primers. I forget which size. The only reason I did it that way is I didn't have a proper tool. I use the RCBS swage die now. I don't set it up per the instructions though. I set the swage rod all the way down and swage by feel. Much quicker that way |
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