So I dug out all my reloading stuff that has been stored since 2004. I only used it to load a few hundred 357. That was it.

So now I'm all most ready to start loading .223. I'm waiting on my powder measure insert to get here.

To the point.

I have an old Hornady/Pacific scale. It has literately only been used for those few hundred round's. I'm assuming it's as accurate now as when I put it away,, took apart in the box. From what I've read, this is a descent little scale. I'm low budget, and definitely don't have the cash for an expensive digital scale.

What I'm worried about is the accuracy of this scale. Do you guy's think I'll be all right to trust it with out calibrating it. My powder insert should be here tomorrow, and I'll be ready to load..... Hopefully.... Getting set up is teaching me patience. But I'm smart enough to know not to rush something that can get you hurt.

I'm wanting to go ahead and get some calibration weight's, but that might take a payday or two so I can catch up on money. Here's a set of weight's I could go ahead and get now if you guy's think they are GTG.  Anyone tried these. Or I could wait and get something better if need be. What would you recommend for the economically challanged.

Calibration Weight's


Here's a pic of my new, old scale. In your opinion's, this should serve me well. Right??

IMO you could use a single 20 gram check weight which weighs 308 grains.  If you wanted, you could get a 10 and 20 grain for 462 grains total.  

Set it up and zero it and while you are waiting for your check weights weight a couple of bullets 55grain or what ever you have bullets are very accurate in weight. The type of scale you are using is very forgiving and easy to zero if on a level surface.

Been using one like that for 25 years, still going strong.

Put on a 55 grain bullet, add one at a time tolal of 6, should

be at 330 grain (or very close; bullets will vary slightly).

I've got 6 bullets that are right on at 55 grains, I save them

for calibration checks only; in their on little box so they do not get used.

sdshooter.................

Honestly, I'll probably only use the low end of the scale. Roughly 25 grain's. What check weight would I use for that range.

I like the bullet idea too.

Well my bullet's are all over the place. I got them off the EE. They are supposed to be Hornady 55gr. They were just sent in a zip lock bag. Sealed bag that had been cut open. I hope the are the real deal.

Here's what they weighed. I would think there should be a lot more weighing 55. I got tired of weighing them.

5 = 55

25 = 55.1

15 = 55.2

I'm guessing I need to calibrate my scale with a known weight to know for sure how accurate I am. Any input. Thanks

Errors with this type of balance are almost always linear which is why folks are suggesting using 300+ grains.  If you are on at 300 and on at 0 then you will be on at all points in between.

for Hornady to have two tens variance is very unusual unless they were blem purchased at Grand Island but even blem bullets are in a box and say what the problem was.

I got 1k from the guy. I assumed he got some 6k rd pack's and was splitting them up. They were in a sealed bag. The bag had been cut open for what looks like inspection. I assumed the Post Office did it. I didn't really suspect anything wrong. Should I ?? I did ask the guy if they were blems. He said they were not.


I do have some others that I bought from Grafs, but they are in a 500 rd sealed bag. But if I remember right Grafs was weighing them out, then packaging them their self. I could be wrong though. I guess I could call and ask them.

I hate to tear that bag open since I won't be needing them for a long time. Maybe I should just to see if those very in weight too. Should I tear it open ??

Two tenths of a grain variance for a FMJ bullet isn't out of the ordinary even from Hornady. They aren't match bullets. Without a set of check weights, you could re-weigh the same bullet over and over and see if it repeatable. If so, then using it shouldn't be a problem. I use a Lyman check weight set made by Ohaus I assume. Still, you need a set of weights.

Do you guy's think the smaller "Standard" weights would be good enough. Or should I go for the "Deluxe".

Very nice looking balance beam scale.  IMO, if you can get that thing to zero, then use it, by all means.  Make sure there is no collection of debris in or around the fulcrum or beam.  Make sure it is sitting horizontal in both orthogonal axes.  Keep it away from compliant and/or vibrating surfaces.

FWIW,  I use these, and have for years.  Gift from my reloading FIL.

you can use pennies or dimes.  If you use pennies the post 1982 pennies weigh more than the pre 1982 pennies.  1982 pennies can be of either weight



coin weights here http://www.coinflation.com/



bullets are hardly ever the nominal weight they're listed as, always off by a tenth or more of a grain

Well, here's a repeat of the link in my first post. But I think those weight's might be in gram's.

Calibration Weight's







Here's the "Standard" kit.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/493216/rcbs-standard-scale-check-weights-605-grains







Here's the "Deluxe" kit.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/163721/rcbs-deluxe-scale-check-weights-5105-grains?cm_vc=subv1493216







Here's a really nice one from Cabela's. If I was going to splurge, this is the one I would get.

http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=705315






Now I just need to decide if the smaller, "Standard" kit is good enough. It goes up to something like 65 grain's. The larger kit's go to 500 grain's. If I wanted to deal with converting everything from grams to grains, I think the first kit would be a good value,,, all though a pain in the butt.

If I got one of the bigger kit's, I could make sure the full range of the scale was accurate. I don't know if I would use the higher end or not. I do really like the Cabela's kit.

I use something similar to your 'standard' check weights.  

Prior to loading, I zero the scale at '0', and then use the check weights to approximate the loads I'll be measuring that session. If I'm loading 7.5gr of powder, I check the scale with 7gr worth of check weights.

That's the exact same scale I have. It's easy to use and accurate. Stays zeroed thru the whole reloading session, no worries. You'll like yours.

Here's mine when I was loading some 62 gr pulls and painting the tips green


I wouldn't worry about buying check weights. Like was said before, measure the same bullet a few times to make sure the reading is repeatable. Make sure it is zeroed out first.
That's how I did mine and haven't blown anything up yet !

Those are great scales, my father has one, if they still made them I would too, ease of use trumps any current production reloading balance I've seen. Dad's been loading with it over 20yrs, rifle and pistol mild to hot, mostly hot, no calibration weights involved. I got an RCBS new and the difference was less than 1/10gr when comparing using bullets, etc.

I prefer these simple manual scales to anything electronic. Because they all use magnetic dampening it makes a difference how you load or rock the pan. Using the same technique every time will insure consistent results.

Ya, I really like how this has the over/under scale by the zero mark. Makes so easy, even a caveman could do it. No offense to any of you cavemen out there.

You guys are calibrating your balances more than I calibrate my ultra micro balance at work! Haha..

Unless your shooting 600-1000yrs, 0.1 gr variances in anything will have virtually no impact.

No need to calibrate or waste your money on weights IMHO.

No damage or corrosion?  Does it zero?  If yes to all, you are fine.



Calibration weights are needed for electronic scales because they use Hooke's Law, deformation of a spring.  Balances compare mass, they are correct regardless of latitude, elevation or geology (mountains bend gravity, basalt formations are denser than limestone).



Ok, electronic scales use a bit more than Hooke's Law, they are usually a special cantilever beam that bends.  Deformation of the beam is measured with sensitive strain gauges.  Because the beam material changes slightly with temperature, this induces yet another calibration issue, usually compensated automatically.  But it influences linearity too.  This is why check weights are needed with electronic scales.






 

Here's a dump question.... Where the needle is 6.4.2.0.2.4.6 ........it the needle reads +2 how far are you off? Is that .2 grains ?

Yes, its graduated in tenths of a grain.

I've been using the exact same scale for years. It was new, in the box, and probably 20 years old when I got it. It's a good scale.