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I can do better than that. I'll share how I tuned my XL650 tool head. First die to install is Dillon trim die, then sizer/decap die, followed with Lyman M die. I use an M die to lightly flare case mouth by 0.002 over sized case mouth diameter. Once this is done, brass won't case gage in an L.E. Wilson case gage because of flare, just makes sense that it won't.

Setting XL650 tool head for size, trim, M die in the sequence I set dies.

1.) Install Dillon trim die in station # 3. Run die down until brass will case gage using either Dillon or Wilson gage. I use Wilson and by the way, my gages are rust free. When set, secure lock nut. To keep trimmer from "torquing" trim die out secure trim die with another lock nut from under tool head. I use a Lee lock ring. Most use Hornady lock ring, which ever, one works as well as the other for me.

2.) Install RL1200 trimmer. I load a trimmed to my desired trim height bottlenecked brass. My preference for .223 is 1.750. Load trimmed brass in shellplate and extend ram. Then back locking nut off trimmer and run trimmer down until trim blade touches brass. Secure lock nut. Adjust as needed. I cheated a bit last time I set mine. I ran trimmer down until blade touched brass, lowered ram and loaded an untrimmed, but previously sized piece of brass, turned trimmer on while securing with one hand and extending ram with the other. This was an up, down, on and off flip of trimmer switch until trim height was dialed.
Then I secured lock nut. Better have a good grip on the trimmer is my advice.

3.) I have a Dillon carbide sizer in station one. After setting trim die and trimmer I extend ram with trimmed brass loaded in trim die. That done I run down sizer die until base firmly touches shellplate and secure lock nut.

4. With stations one and three loaded, ram extended I set M die to bell 0.002 over sized case mouth diameter.

Now you're set to load 2nd tool head with Lee Universal decapper. Suggest to your friend that he either case gages occasionally at station four or move M die to second tool head.

Not everyone will agree with this method. This is my method for my operation. We set the bar for standards within our operations. Anticipating an antagonistic  response or three I'm going to say a few things. I don't worry with work hardening brass seeings I anneal every other firing. For those who don't anneal your first pass will be different than mine. Instead of questioning my method, explain your own method and reasoning but whatever you do don't poison this thread. You do and you might feel some teeth where a door might swing. Keep it upbeat and constructive, please.

dc.

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Just noticed this thread.  I used to reload for my dad some 30-odd years ago, and I'm trying to get back to it for myself now.  There are a lot of things I guess I've forgotten.

Recently got a SIG in .40 S&W and I want to reload for that.  I've read all the threads where people have been blowing up their guns, and I intend to load some pretty mild loads.

Dug out my dad's Lachmiller press, and bought some Lee Precision dies for .40.  Decapped and resized 50 rounds last night, seems to be as I recall.

BUT -- this die set has four dies, not three -- so I'm a bit confused.Resizing die is the same, and there is a die to flare the mouth of the case so you can drop a bullet in -- but it seems to be awfully easy to flare the mouth so much that a bullet will FALL in all the way to the powder charge!  How to prevent that?

And this set expects me to pour my powder THROUGH that same die into the case.  Not sure I'm going to do that.

Next, the set has a bullet seating die.  That's simple enough.

Finally, the crimping die.  Guess I didn't use one with the.270.  How do I set the crimping die?  Surely one shouldn't just crimp the round as hard as possible???