I wrote this one up last summer:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/377402_I_said_I_would_write_up_my_style_so_I_did__enjoy__I_hope____.html

In it, I stated that I had to fire off some 38's as a function check for a recent buy of a S&W 642. I also stated that the 38 shells that I did have, I bored out the the primer hole for use with wax bullets and that I may do a small write up on it. So here goes:

My normal prelude: Have some pity on my poor writing abilities, i.e. I'm to old to care about it anyway.


Here we go: Here's all the stuff as a collective. I'll go thru it all individually.




All the equipment, a press with a Lyman Universal decapper and a Lee priming tool:




Now, the bench press is not necessary. Out in the garage, I just use a Lee hand held press to pop out the primers. Which is one other reason beyond the fact that it's really inexpensive, they are very accurate within certain ranges, is that you can basically practice anywhere.
There's a couple things you should know at the outset. These are not powerful enough to cycle a semi. For indoor use, like my garage, I use only primers (Before you use regular shells, read below). With primers only, they are very accurate at 15', which isn't bad. Outside, I'll use a primer and triple 7 black powder. This will make them soar at close to 800fps. I used a 1/2" piece of gator board as a backstop at 50'. They went right through so these things are not to be taken lightly. The recommended charge is no more the 3 grains VOLUME. Yes, not weight. I used my digital scale to weigh out the charge and its 2.2 grains by WEIGHT of 777 for those like me who prefer to weigh. My little RCBS scale can run on batteries also so that part is mobile to. After I use triple 7, I hose down the revolver (s) with Windex with vinegar to dispel any corrosives though triple 7 is mild in that respect, before I scrub them up. Do not use ammonia. With the 777, they are very accurate to 30'.

Okay, some of the individual shots,




You can buy these from your wax bullet supplier. They are shells that have been bored out to receive 209 shotgun primers. With the shotgun primers, they will equal the regular primers plus the 777 in FPS. The bummer for me is I got set back. I tried one of the recommended brands but it still happened. As I'm in this armpit of a state, most places won't sell me them on the web. I want to try the RIOs but the closest stock from me is a couple hours driving. The shells are available in a couple calibers. The thing with the 209's is they need to be the flat type, not rounded over so hence their recommendations.

Instead, I use regular shells until I can try the RIO's. (here's the bolded part from above).



I've been using these six for a couple years now. Ya, they are a bit grubby. Maybe they'll hit the tumbler. Before you use regular brass, you'll need to enlarge the flash hole. If you do not, you will get primer set back. Not such a big deal in my single actions as I can just pop the cylinders but it would be a big PITA on a double action. I used a 7/64 bit to increase the hole. Any bigger and you'll push the primers through. As a side note: You never have to resize the brass after the first time. Also: Keep these separate. An enlarged flash hole is a bit dangerous for a regular charge.

In my original post, I said I had a bunch of 38's but I bored them out. Here's the rest of the flock, all primed and ready to go:



I havent used any but the original six. It's so quick to pop the primers, put in a new one, insert a new wax bullet that I never had a need to. And that's how you load the bullet by the way. Just push it in till it's flush with the top of the shell.

Here's the sack you get for $25.00. A thousand shots, add the cost of the primers (triple seven if you go that route) and it's cheaper then .22's. Plus you can target shoot at home. The noise level is a primer going off.



That's about it guys. Thought I'd do it as winter is here. Should I leave another cliff hanger?

Okay, I will. Over the years, along with buying as many matching .22's or conversion kits in .22 for my firearms as within reason, I also have a number of them in pellet guns. Damn pellet gun replicas are expensive. I have a lever action that cost close to $500.00 (it was a gift from my old supervisor) but most of them go for 2-300. I always wanted to build a old time shooting gallery with the moving targets, bells, reactives and so on for them. Maybe this winter, no promises. If I do, I'll write another but it probably won't be a reloading forum thing.

Thank you for taking the time to post this. The snow is piling up outside as I type, and this might fit the bill for something to keep my hands and mind occupied.

Your welcome. Just be sure to use a dampening backstop like a hanging rug. Little bastards can sail.

I use the plastic bullets made by Speer in both .45 and 9mm. They are reuseable and do not leave crud in the bore. (no plastic gets left behind but yes, The primer residue is filthy) So long as you use a few pieces of hanging carpet for a backstop - There is no damage to the actual bullet. IIRC the .45 cal plastic bullets get near 500fps powered by only a large pistol magnum primer... Flasholes DO also have to be slightly enlarged with the plastic Speer bullets also but there is no need at all for a shotgun primer.

I tap out fired primers with nothing more than a spare decapping rod and a very small hammer. New primers are inserted with the RCBS hand prime tool. Takes seconds to deprime and reprime with no need for any sort of press at all.

Personally, I save the Amerc headstamp brass for use with plastic bullets. If I just got to ruin a piece of brass by drilling the flashhole out larger - I like to be ruining a piece of brass that was garbage to begin with. Amerc is good for this but worthless (IMHO) for reloading 'real' bullets with.

Does any company sell wax complete rounds?

Yup, tried those in the past also along with the old X-ring rubber ones. I like the wax because if I want to I can vary the charge for distances. Same deal on the flash hole of having to enlarge if using regular brass. The shotgun primer isn't necessary but it gives a lot of ommph without powder. Yup, an extra rod and hammer will do it but you don't need a hammer with the shotgun primer shells. They just push out with a rod. Damn, wish I had those RIOs. The Lee hand held is simpler than a hammer and it's short money and portable. I use regular pistol primes, not magnum.

Why?

EDTA: Sorry, caught me off guard. They are used mainly for CAS practice. Getting the shotgun primer readies, RIO primers, a rod to push out the old primers and a sack of bullets is all's you need.

EDTA2: The shotgun primers just get pushed in with your fingers.

you can buy the shells pre-drilled, or get a step drill bit to do it yourself.

Yes, I've seen the homemade versions.

I'll pop a couple sites here where you can get them, not sure if it's a site violation to do so though. I guess the mods can delete them if it is.

http://www.cowboyfastdraw.com/secureshop/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=167

http://www.gunfighter.com/waxbullets/

http://www.waxbullet.com/

Care to elaborate?

Hmmm. One of those links has .30 caliber.  Sounds like a good way to play with a Nagant 1895 - trim a bunch of used steel cases, counterbore the primer pocked for Large Pistol vs. Berdan, and drill a new flash hole.

Get canning wax (in the canning section of ye olde grocery store), and lay out each of the blocks of wax on a table.  Take standard cases with enlarged flash holes to about 3/32", and heat them up with a heat gun until they slice through the wax like butter, and leave them in the wax ip until it hardens.  When everything is cool, twist each round out of the wax, then use a hand priming tool to put a magnum primer in the case, and you're done.  If you try to use primed cases, the wax bullet WILL slip out, and the whole heated case thing is another very good reason to prime later.

Others have noted that the noise level is "only" that of the primer going off.  That is still a hazardous level of noise, so wear hearing protection, especially indoors.

Well, I was going to leave the homemade stuff out of it but there seems to be more than an active interest in it. Esp for those with the oddball calibers that aren't availability standards.

Here's a good write-up on how to make them plus an interesting recipe.
http://www.americanrifleman.org/ArticlePage.aspx?id=2294&cid=32

For those that want to, here's a quick video on using bullet molds to make them, I'm not sure of the advantage to it but others may, esp using a 2 bullet mold. Anyway:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZdbOPFULe4