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Posted: 12/23/2012 5:08:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: John87]
I was at my LGS and noticed they had a few of these bushing laying around, so I picked up a few to see what they are like. I first noticed these in a thread Dryflash3 made about a powder measure he refurbished.
Hornady LnL Bushings 
First I had to remove the large nut you would normally remove to reload .50 BMG. This required a 1.5 inch wrench! I don't have one so I used a very large adjustable wrench. 
Then install the Hornady LnL Bushing into the press. Put some red Loc-Tite on the threads or most likely this will back out when you remove a die. I tightened the bushing down with a set of Channel Locks. 
I then set up a few dies... 
As of right now I have set up my .223 X-dies, .30-06 FL dies, a Lee Decapping die, and a RCBS Primer Pocket Swagging die. 
With the exception of the Lee Decapping die, all of the lids close fine with the LnL bushings attached. Lee uses a smaller box. Overall, I am happy with this little upgrade. I just placed an order with MidwayUSA for more bushings so I can set up the rest of my die sets. I am however considering not running these on my Match Grade .30-06 rounds as I am afraid there may be some play, and I want exact consistency between rounds. I will load up a batch using the Hornady bushings then a batch without the bushings and see if there is any noticable difference. If there is no difference, I will keep them on my -06 dies and be a happy camper. |
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Posted: 12/23/2012 8:13:45 PM EDT
[#1]
Good thing the bushings are on sale this month at Midway.
Looks like you went all in.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 12/23/2012 8:41:09 PM EDT
[#2]
I have a LnL AP and when I upgraded my single stage, I went with a Redding Big Boss II. The first thing I did was put a Hornady LnL Bushing Conversion on it. I really like the bushings and the convenience. I also ONLY use Hornady Lock Rings. All my rifle dies are Redding and before I install any die, I get rid off the Redding Lock Ring and install a Hornady.
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Posted: 12/23/2012 8:44:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BadLuther]
[#3]
Your post just gave me the idea of using those bushings on my swage press for quick change outs.....thanks OP!
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Posted: 12/24/2012 12:21:40 AM EDT
[#4]
 Like OP mentioned, I use them on my PM's.
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Posted: 12/24/2012 12:37:24 AM EDT
[#5]
I am really enjoying this little upgrade. Just finished 240 rounds of 55g .223, which, after an initial 20 test rounds, is all I got out of 1lb of CFE223.
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WA, USA
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Posted: 12/24/2012 1:09:32 AM EDT
[#6]
Next purchase! Thanks for all the picks!
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UT, USA
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Posted: 12/25/2012 12:13:08 AM EDT
[Last Edit: jjwheeler2]
[#7]
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Posted: 12/25/2012 8:50:23 AM EDT
[Last Edit: angus6]
[#8]
Originally Posted By jjwheeler2:
Better deal on conversion kit. Comes with 6 bushings instead of 3 like the one from Midway. Cabelas Wished I'd caught this yesterday as it would have saved $18 over Midway 
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Posted: 12/25/2012 11:11:27 AM EDT
[#9]
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1165277407/hornady-lock-n-load-die-bushings 10 for36.89
Don't know what Cabela's prices are. I never check there as their prices are rarely the lowest on anything.
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WA, USA
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Posted: 12/25/2012 2:14:53 PM EDT
[#10]
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/1165277407/hornady-lock-n-load-die-bushings 10 for36.89 Don't know what Cabela's prices are. I never check there as their prices are rarely the lowest on anything. Cabelas actually wins this one.... That Midwest link is only for the bushings.... Cables has the entire system(large nut that goes on the press) with 6 bushings for $19.99. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 12/25/2012 3:46:46 PM EDT
[#11]
Been thinking about trying these out. Does the bushing system bring any play or slop into the equation? Anyone try to do any loaded round comparisons with and without using the bushings? Just curious.
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Posted: 12/25/2012 6:32:14 PM EDT
[#12]
I am also curious how well they retain a setting. It takes time to set-up the seating die every time I have to change to the sizing die. I have thought about using a turret press I have just to avoid it. I would prefer to keep using the 'Chucker if the bushing are repeatable. |
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Posted: 12/25/2012 6:55:04 PM EDT
[#13]
Originally Posted By FL_Tactical:
Been thinking about trying these out. Does the bushing system bring any play or slop into the equation? Anyone try to do any loaded round comparisons with and without using the bushings? Just curious. Yes the bushings have some slop in them while in use on the lnl. No bushing will ever be as tight as threads. I have a lnl ap as well as a rock chucker and see no reason to spend money on more bushings just so I don't have to turn the die a few times. You still have to adjust the dies when switching from press to press so the bushings just add more cost. |
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Posted: 12/25/2012 7:20:08 PM EDT
[#14]
would i be able to do this to a few stations on my 1050 head i use for 5.56? i can then easily put in the 1200 trimmer, then pop that out and in with the already set up seating and comp dies?
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Posted: 12/25/2012 7:46:56 PM EDT
[#15]
Originally Posted By sardo_67:
would i be able to do this to a few stations on my 1050 head i use for 5.56? i can then easily put in the 1200 trimmer, then pop that out and in with the already set up seating and comp dies? No, the bushing takes a conversion nut which has a 1.25"x12 thread IIRC |
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Posted: 12/25/2012 8:13:51 PM EDT
[#16]
Originally Posted By angus6:
Originally Posted By sardo_67:
would i be able to do this to a few stations on my 1050 head i use for 5.56? i can then easily put in the 1200 trimmer, then pop that out and in with the already set up seating and comp dies? No, the bushing takes a conversion nut which has a 1.25"x12 thread IIRC damn, guess i'll just have to get another tool head hahaha |
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Posted: 12/25/2012 11:34:51 PM EDT
[#17]
Originally Posted By pepperbelly: I am also curious how well they retain a setting. It takes time to set-up the seating die every time I have to change to the sizing die. I have thought about using a turret press I have just to avoid it. I would prefer to keep using the 'Chucker if the bushing are repeatable. Have you considered installing a lock nut in place of the nut on your dies? |
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Posted: 12/26/2012 12:03:53 AM EDT
[#18]
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By pepperbelly:
I am also curious how well they retain a setting. It takes time to set-up the seating die every time I have to change to the sizing die. I have thought about using a turret press I have just to avoid it. I would prefer to keep using the 'Chucker if the bushing are repeatable. Have you considered installing a lock nut in place of the nut on your dies? I have now. Thanks.
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Posted: 12/26/2012 12:36:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Objekt]
[#19]
Yes, this is THE way to use a Rockchucker. A Rockchucker was my first press, then I added a Lock-n-Load AP, then I found out about the bushing conversion kit. All dies have been mounted in LnL bushings since.
The only problem I've had: The LnL bushings raise dies by about 1/8". This isn't usually a problem. However, a few brands of dies skimp a bit on die body material. In particular, I had to return a set of Lee .40 S&W/10mm dies, because I couldn't adjust them far enough down to do the job, once they were mounted in LnL bushings. I can't remember which die was the "problem" one, but there just wasn't enough travel to get the die as far down as it needed to go, while having enough threads left on the die body for the lock nut to fully engage. To clarify, this was a problem I had when trying to use the Lee dies in my Lock-n-Load AP press. I've not had this problem in the Rockchucker. |
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Posted: 12/26/2012 1:37:00 AM EDT
[#20]
Originally Posted By pepperbelly: Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By pepperbelly: I am also curious how well they retain a setting. It takes time to set-up the seating die every time I have to change to the sizing die. I have thought about using a turret press I have just to avoid it. I would prefer to keep using the 'Chucker if the bushing are repeatable. Have you considered installing a lock nut in place of the nut on your dies? I have now. Thanks. Or if your handy, |
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Posted: 12/29/2012 12:16:22 PM EDT
[#21]
Giggity giggity goo!
Now I have enough to finish off the rest of my dies with a few spares. 
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LA, USA
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Posted: 12/29/2012 5:06:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: EWP]
[#22]
The LnL bushing are repeatable to less than .0005", I have never had to readjust a sizing or seating die once it was installed in a LnL bushing and I check the sized & seated length of my reloads with a comparator every loading and they are always the same as the time before.
Any variation you get in sized or seated length will be due to brass hardness or neck tension, not the LnL bushings. The movement in the LnL bushing allow them to free float and self center in the press so they are aligned perfectly with the ram, they actually reduce run-out compared to screwing the die directly in the press w/o the bushings. EWP |
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Posted: 12/30/2012 12:50:24 PM EDT
[#23]
Originally Posted By Muddydogs:
Originally Posted By FL_Tactical:
Been thinking about trying these out. Does the bushing system bring any play or slop into the equation? Anyone try to do any loaded round comparisons with and without using the bushings? Just curious. Yes the bushings have some slop in them while in use on the lnl. No bushing will ever be as tight as threads. I have a lnl ap as well as a rock chucker and see no reason to spend money on more bushings just so I don't have to turn the die a few times. You still have to adjust the dies when switching from press to press so the bushings just add more cost. Just started messing with the ones I got and really thinking of returning for the Hornady lock rings like I use on the 1050 |
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Posted: 1/18/2013 8:33:47 AM EDT
[#24]
I've been wanting to do this conversion to my Big Boss II press but I have one question. I do not see any flats on the conversion bushing so how do you tighten it down to make sure it doesn't back out? Is there a nut on the bottom?
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Posted: 1/18/2013 9:10:22 AM EDT
[#25]
How much would it cost to do 40 sets of dies?
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Posted: 1/18/2013 9:15:13 AM EDT
[#26]
Originally Posted By airgunner:
I've been wanting to do this conversion to my Big Boss II press but I have one question. I do not see any flats on the conversion bushing so how do you tighten it down to make sure it doesn't back out? Is there a nut on the bottom? no, the conversion bushing does not. I had to tighten it by hand, then put in the male end of the bushing with a die in it to use that as leverage, then took the die/bushing out, used a flathead screwdriver and a few soft blows from the hammer to tighten it up. be carefule when you do this as the bushing is aluminum, or a cheap cast steel. |
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Posted: 1/18/2013 3:56:11 PM EDT
[#27]
Originally Posted By EWP:
The LnL bushing are repeatable to less than .0005", I have never had to readjust a sizing or seating die once it was installed in a LnL bushing and I check the sized & seated length of my reloads with a comparator every loading and they are always the same as the time before. Any variation you get in sized or seated length will be due to brass hardness or neck tension, not the LnL bushings. The movement in the LnL bushing allow them to free float and self center in the press so they are aligned perfectly with the ram, they actually reduce run-out compared to screwing the die directly in the press w/o the bushings. EWP That has been my experience too. I was actually considering adding an o-ring under the lock ring after reading a German Salazar article about his process for reloading match ammo until I realized the o-ring on the bushing served exactly the same purpose. |
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Posted: 1/18/2013 6:14:54 PM EDT
[#28]
Originally Posted By John87:
Originally Posted By airgunner:
I've been wanting to do this conversion to my Big Boss II press but I have one question. I do not see any flats on the conversion bushing so how do you tighten it down to make sure it doesn't back out? Is there a nut on the bottom? no, the conversion bushing does not. I had to tighten it by hand, then put in the male end of the bushing with a die in it to use that as leverage, then took the die/bushing out, used a flathead screwdriver and a few soft blows from the hammer to tighten it up. be carefule when you do this as the bushing is aluminum, or a cheap cast steel. OK - thanks for the info. How long ago did you do that and have you had to re-tighten it since then? |
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Posted: 1/18/2013 10:50:50 PM EDT
[#29]
John87, I set the toggle to keep this thread out of the archives.
Be sure to post a hot link to this thread in the tacked Useful threads, near the top of the page.
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AL, USA
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Posted: 1/19/2013 1:07:53 AM EDT
[#30]
I wouldnt worry about the slop you think you feel in the bushings and I will tell you why. Everything the press does in the manner of work is done on the UP stroke. So once the things are set basically everything kinda indexes on the up stroke if you will and since on the up stroke everything is under pressure that pressure will apply itself on the mating surfaces of the bushing in the same way every time which will lead to consistant products. Think of it like this, consider yourself pushing against a brick wall, the harder you push on the wall the harder it resists your push, it never moves, so when you actuate the press, the bushing is solid, the die body moves upwards the very slight amount untill it contacts the lugs, which never move, therein lies yours consistancy, its the same every time, the only time the die body really floats is on the downstroke which is during the removal process. Anyway, I can never explain what I know...
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Posted: 1/19/2013 8:28:24 AM EDT
[Last Edit: John87]
[#31]
Originally Posted By airgunner:
Originally Posted By John87:
Originally Posted By airgunner:
I've been wanting to do this conversion to my Big Boss II press but I have one question. I do not see any flats on the conversion bushing so how do you tighten it down to make sure it doesn't back out? Is there a nut on the bottom? no, the conversion bushing does not. I had to tighten it by hand, then put in the male end of the bushing with a die in it to use that as leverage, then took the die/bushing out, used a flathead screwdriver and a few soft blows from the hammer to tighten it up. be carefule when you do this as the bushing is aluminum, or a cheap cast steel. OK - thanks for the info. How long ago did you do that and have you had to re-tighten it since then? Honestly I have only made about 250 rnds of .223 with it as I picked up a Dillon RL550B a little while ago. But, so far, no loosening. ETA: When I do get around to building an add-on to my bench and re-mount my Rock Chucker, there will be plenty more reloading on this machine and after I guess 1k or so reloads, I'll update this thread with any reports. Originally Posted By dryflash3:
John87, I set the toggle to keep this thread out of the archives. Be sure to post a hot link to this thread in the tacked Useful threads, near the top of the page. already done 
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OK, USA
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Posted: 1/20/2013 12:58:31 PM EDT
[#32]
I saw this thread and thought it was a great idea, but my press is threaded right into the frame and does not have the removeable insert.
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OH, USA
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Posted: 1/20/2013 2:05:09 PM EDT
[#33]
Originally Posted By cf6_mech:
I saw this thread and thought it was a great idea, but my press is threaded right into the frame and does not have the removeable insert. I think that's what the OP is saying about removing the "nut" that is normally in the standard press. It has to be removed and an adaptor put into it's place. OP, it's your money, spend it however you want. Me, I'm too cheap!
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NC, USA
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Posted: 1/20/2013 4:23:45 PM EDT
[#34]
I did this to my Rock chucker 10 years ago, it was also a deciding factor when I purchased the LNL AP 3 years ago as all my die sets already had the bushing installed.
I'm still very happy with the setup. Jason |
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Posted: 3/21/2013 12:02:00 PM EDT
[#35]
UPDATE:
I have had the chance to run several hundred rounds of my match grade .30-06 through this setup and have not noticed any degradation in my precision
I will report however that "all bushings are equal, but some bushings are more equal than others", in a sense, some turn and lock in beautifully, but a few are rather hard to turn down, so much so I have to put a wrench on the lock ring to get it to secure itself. I took a Dremel with a wire wheel to the tight fitting bushings, followed by some Flitz and a buffer wheel, and it has helped slightly. Also, I have had the female bushing come loose on me a few times, I am considering finding someone with a heavy duty drill press to drill the side of my Rock Chucker out for a set screw. Or I will apply a drop of red Loctite, most likely the latter. |
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LA, USA
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Posted: 3/23/2013 3:22:29 AM EDT
[#36]
Originally Posted By knight_dive:
Originally Posted By EWP:
The LnL bushing are repeatable to less than .0005", I have never had to readjust a sizing or seating die once it was installed in a LnL bushing and I check the sized & seated length of my reloads with a comparator every loading and they are always the same as the time before. Any variation you get in sized or seated length will be due to brass hardness or neck tension, not the LnL bushings. The movement in the LnL bushing allow them to free float and self center in the press so they are aligned perfectly with the ram, they actually reduce run-out compared to screwing the die directly in the press w/o the bushings. EWP That has been my experience too. I was actually considering adding an o-ring under the lock ring after reading a German Salazar article about his process for reloading match ammo until I realized the o-ring on the bushing served exactly the same purpose. I run an o-ring under the lock ring on the sizing and Redding Comp. seating die in my 550B press, since the tool head is clamped solid in the press the o-ring allows the die to float individually just like the floating die tool head does, it reduced run-out on the 550B from .003" avg down to .001" avg which is pretty good on the Dillon press. EWP Picture of o-ring installed on a sizing die 
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IL, USA
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Posted: 3/23/2013 11:13:25 AM EDT
[#37]
I converted 2 Rock Chuckers years ago when they first came out. These work great and I won't be going back to setting dies every time that I want to use them.
The only way that I've found to be successful in keeping the female bushing tight is to put red Loctite on the threads and then snug it up with a pair of cannel lock pliers. I had thought about installing a set screw but didn't want to risk the integrity of the press head by drilling a hole on it. The Loctite works well but is somewhat of a permanent deal. |
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Posted: 3/22/2014 1:02:40 PM EDT
[#38]
I put a set on my RCS and I have to say that they are super amazing.
I can go from flare, to seat and to crimp in seemingly no time. With the quick change bushings and the Inline case kicker I am finding myself needing fewer XL650 conversions and die sets. I would rate this setup as WELL WORTH THE MONEY!! |
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Posted: 3/22/2014 1:15:54 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By John87:
no, the conversion bushing does not. I had to tighten it by hand, then put in the male end of the bushing with a die in it to use that as leverage, then took the die/bushing out, used a flathead screwdriver and a few soft blows from the hammer to tighten it up. be carefule when you do this as the bushing is aluminum, or a cheap cast steel. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By John87:
Originally Posted By airgunner:
I've been wanting to do this conversion to my Big Boss II press but I have one question. I do not see any flats on the conversion bushing so how do you tighten it down to make sure it doesn't back out? Is there a nut on the bottom? no, the conversion bushing does not. I had to tighten it by hand, then put in the male end of the bushing with a die in it to use that as leverage, then took the die/bushing out, used a flathead screwdriver and a few soft blows from the hammer to tighten it up. be carefule when you do this as the bushing is aluminum, or a cheap cast steel. HAHA, no that is not how to do it. That is what I though too then I realized that is not a good idea. What you do is find a die that doesn't really need a depth set like a decapping die. Get it close but just short of the full depth needed because it will get a little more depth when the adapter is torqued down. With the adapter bushing installed as tight as you can get it on the die with a lock ring installed, place the die HALFWAY into the press adapter so that the splines are fully engaged but not bottomed out. Now torque it down quite snug. DO NOT do this with bushing bottomed out, you will twist it past the stops. These bushings work just like a AR bolt and over turning will just unlock it. These bushings don't need to be insanely tight but after doing this method I have never had mine loosen up again while adjusting dies. I wish that they had put flats on these or made a bushing with a 3/8" square for a ratchet to tighten it down but I think flange thickness was an issue like mentioned above for shorter dies. |
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