User Panel
Originally Posted By 13starsinax:
That's what it is 6.2-6.3 grains I checked every other scaled weight with my hornady digital scale. Do the magnum primers make that much of a difference? This is my first pistol length gas system. I am in FL and it is warmer now. I am using magpul straight 20 magazines. I also loaded up some of mcnastys made projectiles no ftf or fte and lock back on last round. I mean how is this doing this so reliably? Thank you for your reply. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By 13starsinax:
Originally Posted By saabdrifter:
Originally Posted By 13starsinax:
I am using my new Andro Corp pistol build: 10.5 inch, pistol length gas, carbine buffer. accurate 1680 6.2 grains cci magnum small rifle primers 220 grain nosler hpbt 2.05 coal I am getting lock back. Most of the data I have is for 16 inch barrels. This thread is greatly appreciated and this is a long ways ladder down from the 10 grain starting point. Just curious if anyone is working in this range of powder charge. Is there a better source of pistol data? I have not tested for accuracy at all yet. Thank you. 6.2 grains? The lowest I have ever gone was 9.5 and those rounds were very unreliable. Most of my subs are at 10.6 grains. That's what it is 6.2-6.3 grains I checked every other scaled weight with my hornady digital scale. Do the magnum primers make that much of a difference? This is my first pistol length gas system. I am in FL and it is warmer now. I am using magpul straight 20 magazines. I also loaded up some of mcnastys made projectiles no ftf or fte and lock back on last round. I mean how is this doing this so reliably? Thank you for your reply. I Wil bet your velocity is well below 800 fps. Did you start high and work down? You are risking a SEE. |
|
C co 2/325th AIR 91-96 11B1P
Father of 6 un-socialized homeschoolers. |
I am getting into loading for 300 blk. I have a few different powders and bullets and am trying to get some guidance before I order. The powders I can order that look like they will work are Reloader 7 or H4198 and the bullets I have available are SMK 175, 208 OTM, or 220 SMK. Any guidance would be appreciated.
ETA: I could get the nosler 190 hpbt also if those would work well. |
|
|
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
Originally Posted By fallenover: I am getting into loading for 300 blk. I have a few different powders and bullets and am trying to get some guidance before I order. The powders I can order that look like they will work are Reloader 7 or H4198 and the bullets I have available are SMK 175, 208 OTM, or 220 SMK. Any guidance would be appreciated. ETA: I could get the nosler 190 hpbt also if those would work well. View Quote Lots of answers in the tread you started and asked this. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Not sure if correct place to ask but...
Who sells the best 300blk brass? Have read a few horror stories about converted brass that was out of spec. I would do it myself but I doubt the people in the apt next door would be happy about a chop saw running/cutting. |
|
|
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
Originally Posted By Mekks: Not sure if correct place to ask but... Who sells the best 300blk brass? Have read a few horror stories about converted brass that was out of spec. I would do it myself but I doubt the people in the apt next door would be happy about a chop saw running/cutting. View Quote Yes this is the wrong place to ask. Those questions are best asked in the tacked "where to find" thread at the top of the page. Normally I lock threads that ask "where to find". But not locking this important thread or editing your post. Instead will show you part of this site you may not know about. Go to the EE and buy there, several venders sell what you want. EE=Equipment Exchange. Look for the orange Equipment Exchange button near the top of the page. Then look for the Reloading Supplies forum. Read the EE rules before you post to stay out of trouble there. Good luck. Lesson over. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Originally Posted By Mekks:
Not sure if correct place to ask but... Who sells the best 300blk brass? Have read a few horror stories about converted brass that was out of spec. I would do it myself but I doubt the people in the apt next door would be happy about a chop saw running/cutting. View Quote Be aware that even if you buy "ready to load" brass (in ANY caliber), you should verify that the cases are actually properly sized and trimmed before you start loading them. For example, if the 300 Blackout brass you buy was converted and trimmed in one pass on a Dillon 1050, there's a chance that the case neck wasn't expanded properly because of how the Dillon trim/size system works. You might want to invest in a cartridge headspace gauge if you're going to be buying your 300 Blackout brass. Using the cartridge headspace gauge, you'll be able to tell quickly whether a batch of purchased brass really is properly converted and trimmed. |
|
"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
Badges? We don't need no stinking BADGES!!!
MN, USA
|
Tagged!!
|
"If you want to pray, pray before the fight, or pray after the fight. But when you are in the fight, you fight."
MSgt. Paul Howe (ret.) |
I searched and went back a few threads looking for this info.
Has anyone shot the Blackout bullets in 220 grain fmj's ? If so could post the oal and what powder you settled on ? Thanks Ed |
|
If I can make it through thisI can get through anything...
|
do any of the heavy OTM subsonic bullets have good terminal ballistics? like reliable yaw?
|
|
intermodal dream team
|
Originally Posted By MaxTheRabbit:
do any of the heavy OTM subsonic bullets have good terminal ballistics? like reliable yaw? View Quote Short answer, no. If shooting with a 1 in 10 twist, maybe. It depends on your barrel. I have a 1 in 10 twist that stabilizes the heavier bullets, and they tumble well on impact. most report issues with stabilizing and accuracy with a 1 in 10. |
|
C co 2/325th AIR 91-96 11B1P
Father of 6 un-socialized homeschoolers. |
So I FINALLY got myself on some suitable powder.
My FIL picked up two pounds of IMR 4227 today. My wife will pick it up next week. Ordering my vice block tomorrow to finish the build I got the last part for last week. My two on hand bullets are Speer Hot Core 150's and Hornady rn 150's. Hodgdon's data that I have shows 16.5 to 17.8? Anyone running into problems with a similar combination? 10.5" pistol build. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
|
There is nothing more satisfying than hearing hounds trail away in pursuit of their quarry.
"We hang the petit thieves and elect the great ones to public office" Aesop Member Team RANSTAD |
I'd check the group size at a measured distance (try 100 yards) and see if it opens up appreciably both with and without the suppressor. From that 50 yard pattern, you're doing quite well with the load, but if it opens up at longer ranges, then you should start playing with seating depth.
|
|
"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
Just got my stamp back and built this rifle. Still waiting on suppressor stamp but would like to build up a subsonic load in the mean time. I have never loaded for the 300blk before but, I am not new to reloading. Bought 1300 300blk/LC brass and then processed it again myself to avoid any QC issues.
Power: AA1680 Projectile: 190gr Nosler Custom Comps Primer: CCI #41 Altitude: 5280ft Target FPS: 1050 Barrel: Ballistic Advantage CMV/QPQ 1/7 Twist 8" Gas: Pistol length, NON adjustable block Buffer: Standard rate CS spring + Spikes T2 buffer I am pretty much looking for anyone who has loaded this same load before. I will be doing ladder tests but I need a good starting point. I have searched and peoples loads range from 11.2-13.5. I do NOT have a chrony so I will be playing this by ear (literally). Any direct advise would be great! |
|
|
Originally Posted By Mekks:
Just got my stamp back and built this rifle. Still waiting on suppressor stamp but would like to build up a subsonic load in the mean time. I have never loaded for the 300blk before but, I am not new to reloading. Bought 1300 300blk/LC brass and then processed it again myself to avoid any QC issues. Power: AA1680 Projectile: 190gr Nosler Custom Comps Primer: CCI #41 Altitude: 5280ft Target FPS: 1050 Barrel: Ballistic Advantage CMV/QPQ 1/7 Twist 8" Gas: Pistol length, NON adjustable block Buffer: Standard rate CS spring + Spikes T2 buffer I am pretty much looking for anyone who has loaded this same load before. I will be doing ladder tests but I need a good starting point. I have searched and peoples loads range from 11.2-13.5. I do NOT have a chrony so I will be playing this by ear (literally). Any direct advise would be great! View Quote The best advice. Get a chronograph. Seriously, I tried the by ear thing. Had a good accurate load. Took 2 deer with it. 6 point buck and a small doe. Got my chronograph repaired. Ran load over chronograph and my velocity was 850fps. Well below the 1000fps I was shooting for. |
|
C co 2/325th AIR 91-96 11B1P
Father of 6 un-socialized homeschoolers. |
"By ear" testing of whether or not a round is supersonic is a poor choice. Actual speed of sound varies as a function of temperature, humidity and atmospheric pressure air density. If you want to make sure a load STAYS subsonic, load it to be in the 950-1050 fps range.
Aiming for a velocity that's BELOW the LOWEST speed of sound you could encounter is the ONLY way to guarantee that your load will stay subsonic. The "book answer" for speed of sound at sea level (standardized air pressure) is 1,116.43+ fps, in "dry" air at ~15ºC. Higher temperatures give lower higher sound velocity, while lower temperatures give higher lower humidities, and higher air pressures give higher velocities. Humidity affects air density, but barometric pressure does not. Adjusting for 0% to 100% humidity, atmospheric pressure from below sea level to above 8,000 ft elevation, and normally experienced temperatures only produces a 1-3 m/s change in the speed of sound, so staying "comfortably below" 1,100 fps should do the trick. On the other hand, different powders can produce different velocities in different environmental conditions. There are a lot of powders that are "just a little hotter" when the weather is hot. While the speed of sound won't change much in hot weather, your actual velocity could change, and it could change substantially if you're close to sonic velocities. There are not many powders that are suitable for subs in 300 Blackout that have been optimized for minimal performance changes in different temperatures, so getting your load right for your purposes means testing in both hot and "not so hot" conditions; remember, the speed of sound goes UP in cooler air while temperature-sensitive powders tend to be slower in the cold......that was actually irrelevant. But remember, there is no way to 'eyeball' velocity. Get or borrow a chronograph to tune your "gotta be subsonic" loads. Edited to fix a tag and replace some wording for clarity, and un-mangle my screw ups... |
|
"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
"By ear" testing of whether or not a round is supersonic is a poor choice. Actual speed of sound varies as a function of temperature, humidity and atmospheric pressure. If you want to make sure a load STAYS subsonic, load it to be in the 950-1050 fps range. Aiming for a velocity that's BELOW the LOWEST speed of sound you could encounter is the ONLY way to guarantee that your load will stay subsonic. The "book answer" for speed of sound at sea level (standardized air pressure) is 1,116.43+ fps, in "dry" air at ~15ºC. Higher temperatures give lower sound velocity, while lower temperatures, higher humidities, and higher air pressures give higher velocities. Adjusting for 0% to 100% humidity, atmospheric pressure from below sea level to above 8,000 ft elevation, and normally experienced temperatures only produces a 1-3 m/s change in the speed of sound, so staying "comfortably below" 1,100 fps should do the trick. On the other hand, different powders can produce different velocities in different environmental conditions. There are a lot of powders that are "just a little hotter" when the weather is hot. While the speed of sound won't change much in hot weather, your actual velocity could change, and it could change substantially if you're close to sonic velocities. There are not many powders that are suitable for subs in 300 Blackout that have been optimized for minimal performance changes in different temperatures, so getting your load right for your purposes means testing in both hot and "not so hot" conditions; remember, the speed of sound goes UP in cooler air while temperature-sensitive powders tend to be slower in the cold... But remember, there is no way to 'eyeball' velocity. Get or borrow a chronograph to tune your "gotta be subsonic" loads. View Quote Sorry, but the speed of sound is proportional to the temperature of the air, thus as the temperature increases, so does the speed of sound. |
|
NRA Patron Member
dfwlabrescue.org Все либералы киски |
Originally Posted By sheltot:
Sorry, but the speed of sound is proportional to the temperature of the air, thus as the temperature increases, so does the speed of sound. View Quote My bad. You are correct. I should have put in more details to make that point, and I transposed examples in a couple of places because I didn't include those details and confused myself. If we maintain the same atmospheric density, the velocity of sound varies in direct proportion to the temperature. Hot air is less dense and cold air is more dense, so air temperature changes affect the local atmospheric density, regardless of "air pressure". The lower the density of the air, the higher the speed of sound, because it takes less energy to displace the molecules. (That's the transposition - I was watching air density versus temperature and stated the relationship backward.) In my earlier post, I used the term "air pressure," but barometric pressure is not the same thing as "air density." Dense air may be at a higher barometric pressure, OR it may have more moisture, or both. In practical application, you need to attend to the extremes of temperature to get the parameters needed for the "absolute maximum MV" you want to load to. So a HOT day at a higher elevation will give you the highest practical speed of sound, while a COLD day at sea level will give you the lowest practical speed of sound. Elevation is ONLY important because it implies specific conditions, such as the potential for atmospheric moisture capacity. Going with 0ºF at sea level, with the numbers I posted above, will give you a truly useful "absolute" speed to stay below. Very good info HERE about the difference between "air pressure" and air density with regards to their effects on the speed of sound. |
|
"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
i was wondering if anyone has used the 110 hornady soft points on game im looking for a short range 100yard super load for little less money then barnes and ive heard the vmax break up then shoot at close range
|
|
|
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
Originally Posted By zoofergee: i was wondering if anyone has used the 110 hornady soft points on game im looking for a short range 100yard super load for little less money then barnes and ive heard the vmax break up then shoot at close range View Quote Welcome to Arfcom and the Reloading Forum. Glad you found the correct thread to post your question with your second post. Be sure to do some reading at the top of the page, start in FAQ's. Myself, I would use the Barnes Tac-TX. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
I have seen situations where surplus 30-06 M2 AP bullets are loaded into .308 cases to mimic the unavailable M993 7.62 AP Black tip ammo.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGkmUADl4FA Has anyone worked up a load for the same bullets in a .300 BO case? I wonder how effective you could get a round to work from a suppressed 9" barrel. Sorry if I broke any format rules here. But I have looked for days online and found nothing about my query. I am aware of what the ATF thinks about AP ammo in anything that can also be made into a pistol like the .308 and the 300 black out. I would prefer to set this discussion aside and simply look at the science and feasibility of my query. US Special Forces use the 300 BO suppresses for clandestine missions dont they? I assume they must have spare mags of supersonic ball AND AP 300 BO ammo available if they need to switch to that at some point in their mission. Can their armorers produce (hand load) AP rounds for select missions? Who knows. It may be top secret that some outfit like Lake City Army Ammunition Plant already produces a 300 BO AP round exclusively for the military DEVGRU. |
|
|
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
Originally Posted By bosundave: I have seen situations where surplus 30-06 M2 AP bullets are loaded into .308 cases to mimic the unavailable M993 7.62 AP Black tip ammo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGkmUADl4FA Has anyone worked up a load for the same bullets in a .300 BO case? I wonder how effective you could get a round to work from a suppressed 9" barrel. Sorry if I broke any format rules here. But I have looked for days online and found nothing about my query. I am aware of what the ATF thinks about AP ammo in anything that can also be made into a pistol like the .308 and the 300 black out. I would prefer to set this discussion aside and simply look at the science and feasibility of my query. US Special Forces use the 300 BO suppresses for clandestine missions dont they? I assume they must have spare mags of supersonic ball AND AP 300 BO ammo available if they need to switch to that at some point in their mission. Can their armorers produce (hand load) AP rounds for select missions? Who knows. It may be top secret that some outfit like Lake City Army Ammunition Plant already produces a 300 BO AP round exclusively for the military DEVGRU. View Quote Years ago I developed loads for 30-30 with this bullet. (single loaded) Just find/use data for 180 gr bullets and work up carefully. Do Not use W-296/H-110 unless you like pressure spikes, and blown primers. H-110 work fine for 135 gr and under bullets. I would use Lil'Gun, A-1680, or IMR-4227. Good luck |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
I need some assistance on starting a subsonic load using 170 grain Lehigh defense CF bullets with IMR 4227. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
|
|
|
Originally Posted By Knoxp9090:
I need some assistance on starting a subsonic load using 170 grain Lehigh defense CF bullets with IMR 4227. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. View Quote per Lehigh Defense Lehigh defense 170gr sub load data they do no list IMR 4227 for the 170 but they do for the 174 Lehigh defense 174gr Sub load data |
|
C co 2/325th AIR 91-96 11B1P
Father of 6 un-socialized homeschoolers. |
Ok I now see the issue, I have been looking on my phone and the form was blank, but just checked on my computer and see it listed now.
Do you think the 174 vs 170 makes a difference in the powder charge? Should I reduce by a grain or two? Originally Posted By garyd:
per Lehigh Defense Lehigh defense 170gr sub load data they do no list IMR 4227 for the 170 but they do for the 174 Lehigh defense 174gr Sub load data View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By garyd:
Originally Posted By Knoxp9090:
I need some assistance on starting a subsonic load using 170 grain Lehigh defense CF bullets with IMR 4227. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. per Lehigh Defense Lehigh defense 170gr sub load data they do no list IMR 4227 for the 170 but they do for the 174 Lehigh defense 174gr Sub load data |
|
|
Originally Posted By Knoxp9090:
Ok I now see the issue, I have been looking on my phone and the form was blank, but just checked on my computer and see it listed now. Do you think the 174 vs 170 makes a difference in the powder charge? Should I reduce by a grain or two? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Knoxp9090:
Ok I now see the issue, I have been looking on my phone and the form was blank, but just checked on my computer and see it listed now. Do you think the 174 vs 170 makes a difference in the powder charge? Should I reduce by a grain or two? Originally Posted By garyd:
Originally Posted By Knoxp9090:
I need some assistance on starting a subsonic load using 170 grain Lehigh defense CF bullets with IMR 4227. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. per Lehigh Defense Lehigh defense 170gr sub load data they do no list IMR 4227 for the 170 but they do for the 174 Lehigh defense 174gr Sub load data no With subsonic you start high and work down If I was doing it, I would start with 10gr and work down till I was around 1000fps. I try to keep all my subs at 1000fps. |
|
C co 2/325th AIR 91-96 11B1P
Father of 6 un-socialized homeschoolers. |
Well I had a chance to shoot a few 170gr Lehigh Defense CF rounds.
Troy PAR - 16" Barrel with 7.62 Specwar 170gr Lehigh Defense CF rounds 8.6grs of 4227 Tula Small Rifle Primer LC converted brass 5 shots average - 1000fps. |
|
|
Originally Posted By Knoxp9090:
Well I had a chance to shoot a few 170gr Lehigh Defense CF rounds. Troy PAR - 16" Barrel with 7.62 Specwar 170gr Lehigh Defense CF rounds 8.6grs of 4227 Tula Small Rifle Primer LC converted brass 5 shots average - 1000fps. View Quote How did they function and what mag did you use? |
|
Once I realized that I'd never be happy, never accomplish any goals, and never be passionate about anything my life went from being sad to boring. I'm ok with it.
|
Heads up....
Midway has Barnes Blacktip bullets for $21.83/box. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/614359/barnes-tipped-tac-tx-bullets-300-aac-blackout-300-whisper-308-diameter-110-grain-flat-base-lead-free-box-of-50 |
|
|
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
Originally Posted By AlphaOperator: Heads up.... Midway has Barnes Blacktip bullets for $21.83/box. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/614359/barnes-tipped-tac-tx-bullets-300-aac-blackout-300-whisper-308-diameter-110-grain-flat-base-lead-free-box-of-50 View Quote We have a tacked thread at the top of the page for this kind of info. Please use it next time. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
We have a tacked thread at the top of the page for this kind of info. Please use it next time. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By AlphaOperator:
Heads up.... Midway has Barnes Blacktip bullets for $21.83/box. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/614359/barnes-tipped-tac-tx-bullets-300-aac-blackout-300-whisper-308-diameter-110-grain-flat-base-lead-free-box-of-50 We have a tacked thread at the top of the page for this kind of info. Please use it next time. 10-4 |
|
|
16" barrel (rifle length gas tube)
208 gr Amax bullets 11 grains Accurate 1680 Sighted in at 100yds I am 30 inches low at 200 That normal? |
|
So you can shoot? Come to an Appleseed, let's verify that claim, then start helping me teach others to shoot too!
|
I'm no expert, and I'm sure someone with more inclination to do the ballistics math will be along shortly, but yes. For a subsonic round, that sounds like it's in the ballpark.
|
|
|
Originally Posted By JPL:
16" barrel (rifle length gas tube) 208 gr Amax bullets 11 grains Accurate 1680 Sighted in at 100yds I am 30 inches low at 200 That normal? View Quote According to Hornady's ballistic chart, with a MV of 1020 fps with a 100 yd zero; at 200 yd, the drop is 34.1 in. Ballistic chart |
|
NRA Patron Member
dfwlabrescue.org Все либералы киски |
WOW!
Thanks for the replies. Just surprised me it would be that much. |
|
So you can shoot? Come to an Appleseed, let's verify that claim, then start helping me teach others to shoot too!
|
More than two years ago someone was kind enough to send me an excel sheet of all the powders and bullet manufactures by weight reloading reference materials. To build from. Can someone please help me again, i had to get a new computer after a crash. It was awesome had all the brands and load info. Thank you.
|
|
Originally Posted By mizzarley
Can we all agree now that the D's and R's are the same fucks who are just pimping for control and tax dollars? |
Originally Posted By 13starsinax:
More than two years ago someone was kind enough to send me an excel sheet of all the powders and bullet manufactures by weight reloading reference materials. To build from. Can someone please help me again, i had to get a new computer after a crash. It was awesome had all the brands and load info. Thank you. View Quote If you're successful, would you mind sharing it with me? |
|
|
Yes , sure as long as its allowed.
|
|
Originally Posted By mizzarley
Can we all agree now that the D's and R's are the same fucks who are just pimping for control and tax dollars? |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
|
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
|
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
WA, USA
|
Originally Posted By QwikKotaTx: Has anyone tried using a 10" miter saw with a non-ferrous blade to trim 5.56 cases? I have one of Zep's case trimmer mounts and would like to know before I buy a small underpowered bench saw. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/91mse0R44LL._SX355_.jpg + http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/vonzep/20130929_205159_zpse55135ee.jpg View Quote I'm sure it would work, but something to hold the case securely would be needed as you would want your fingers clear of the blade. Wouldn't be too hard if you are handy. Don't know how fast it would be. Myself, I use a band saw because I already had it and made my own jig to index the case for cutting. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other. |
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
I'm sure it would work, but something to hold the case securely would be needed as you would want your fingers clear of the blade. Wouldn't be too hard if you are handy. Don't know how fast it would be. Myself, I use a band saw because I already had it and made my own jig to index the case for cutting. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By QwikKotaTx:
Has anyone tried using a 10" miter saw with a non-ferrous blade to trim 5.56 cases? I have one of Zep's case trimmer mounts and would like to know before I buy a small underpowered bench saw. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/91mse0R44LL._SX355_.jpg + http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/vonzep/20130929_205159_zpse55135ee.jpg Wouldn't be too hard if you are handy. Don't know how fast it would be. Myself, I use a band saw because I already had it and made my own jig to index the case for cutting. I wish I had looked at those homemade jigs before buying the Zep. It's a nice piece and has a quick change feature to it but the jigs with 10 cases lined up for the band saw are very nice. I have been wanting to buy a band saw but would like to make sure the bench top models that are usually used on wood will work with a metal blade. The jig would be clamped or screwed to the miter saw's table area and hands would be away from cutting surfaces. |
|
|
Originally Posted By QwikKotaTx:
Has anyone tried using a 10" miter saw with a non-ferrous blade to trim 5.56 cases? I have one of Zep's case trimmer mounts and would like to know before I buy a small underpowered bench saw. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/91mse0R44LL._SX355_.jpg + http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/vonzep/20130929_205159_zpse55135ee.jpg View Quote I use the Harbor Freight saw with Zepp's jig. It isn't "underpowered" for this application. In fact, I would caution you to use eye protection with this particular setup - the trimmed ends can go flying with a LOT of force. I'm working on a shield to keep the necks from trying to get into the next timezone when I do my next batch of cases. The jig, by the way, works very, very well. Yes, the saw will get warm, but mine has never lugged or gotten really hot. You will want to make sure your blade stays sharp, and a little wax on the blade won't hurt with that. |
|
"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein NRA Life Member Glock Certified Armorer Certified AR15 Armorer Certified M1911 Armorer |
Being frugal, I also tried to use my miter saw to cut some cases. Not a great idea. Cuts were ugly, and some parts went supersonic across my garage.
The bandsaw works for me also, mostly because I already had it. The mini saw with a good jig is reported to work well. |
|
|
Originally Posted By GHPorter:
I use the Harbor Freight saw with Zepp's jig. It isn't "underpowered" for this application. In fact, I would caution you to use eye protection with this particular setup - the trimmed ends can go flying with a LOT of force. I'm working on a shield to keep the necks from trying to get into the next timezone when I do my next batch of cases. The jig, by the way, works very, very well. Yes, the saw will get warm, but mine has never lugged or gotten really hot. You will want to make sure your blade stays sharp, and a little wax on the blade won't hurt with that. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By GHPorter:
Originally Posted By QwikKotaTx:
Has anyone tried using a 10" miter saw with a non-ferrous blade to trim 5.56 cases? I have one of Zep's case trimmer mounts and would like to know before I buy a small underpowered bench saw. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/91mse0R44LL._SX355_.jpg + http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y250/vonzep/20130929_205159_zpse55135ee.jpg I use the Harbor Freight saw with Zepp's jig. It isn't "underpowered" for this application. In fact, I would caution you to use eye protection with this particular setup - the trimmed ends can go flying with a LOT of force. I'm working on a shield to keep the necks from trying to get into the next timezone when I do my next batch of cases. The jig, by the way, works very, very well. Yes, the saw will get warm, but mine has never lugged or gotten really hot. You will want to make sure your blade stays sharp, and a little wax on the blade won't hurt with that. Originally Posted By snowshooter:
Being frugal, I also tried to use my miter saw to cut some cases. Not a great idea. Cuts were ugly, and some parts went supersonic across my garage. The bandsaw works for me also, mostly because I already had it. The mini saw with a good jig is reported to work well. Thanks guys. If I can't find a good deal on a band saw I will get the mini saw. |
|
|
|
Does anyone else have an issue with A1680 powder and static? The powder does not stick to my scale pan or the funnel but it is sticking badly to the case mouth, not all of it drops down to the base. It may not be an issue but I would prefer to seat the bullet on a clean brass surface. Maybe I can rub the cases on dryer sheets??
|
|
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.