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Posted: 9/15/2009 2:44:35 PM
[Last Edit: 9/15/2009 2:44:48 PM by REDMASTA]
Originally Posted By kokopelli:
I have a 1st Anniversary Edition with the larger suppressor on it; this thing is a blast! The only mod so far is putting in a bolt buffer. Looks like I'll be Duracoating the frame/reciever now though. In a moment of forgetfulness, knowing not to use solvent type cleaners on it, I sprayed it out with my old stand-by cleaner, brakes parts cleaner! Wherever the cleaner got onto the finish, it gummed up and could just be wiped off. This is the 'Titanium' finish, which actually seems like Rustoleum spray paint with a clear coat on it.
Sooooo.....I'll be taking it apart to Duracoat it and will likely do a few other mods I've learned from here when I put it back together. What do you think for color? HK Black or WWII OD Green? Lol yeah that anniversary finish is a joke.I say HK black it just looks so sexy! |
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Posted: 9/27/2009 8:41:04 PM
HK Blach Dura coat was the winner- looks MUCH better!
Now...how did this thing come apart...? Anyone have step by step instructions for total disassembly and rebuild, with pics? I labeled every part as I took it out in a ziplock baggie, but I don't remember the sequence!!!! ![]() |
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Posted: 10/31/2009 6:56:14 PM
I picked up a slightly used GSG earlier this month and after reading through this thread, I realized that the spring that is used to hold the bolt open after the last round is gone....I'm assuming it was lost by the previous owner.....can a replacement spring be ordered or is there an aftermarket spring that will fit in it?
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Posted: 11/13/2009 4:49:31 PM
I didn't like the sound or feel of the plastic stock (the stock stock
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Posted: 11/14/2009 12:27:53 AM
curious to know the before and after weight.....its prob. to late obv. to get your beg. weight but if you have some larry the largemouth bass scales i would be interested to know the weight and then someone that hasnt down the mod can just add the beg. weight.
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Posted: 11/16/2009 11:43:39 AM
I can get it to a scale tomorrow
I'll get it for you, its not a big difference in weight |
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Posted: 11/16/2009 7:32:36 PM
Originally Posted By johnglock:
I didn't like the sound or feel of the plastic stock (the stock stock i thought about doing somthing like that one day but useing fiberglass resin. |
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Posted: 11/18/2009 11:35:01 PM
Weight of the foam only filled stock is 10.0 oz. I doubt that I used more than 4oz of foam. Weight is likely less than that after it has set up. See the Beers78n9's post on the first page about adding weight and balance.
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Posted: 1/22/2010 2:53:43 PM
[Last Edit: 1/22/2010 3:01:23 PM by USMC2147]
I found a series of You Tube videos that walk you through the complete tear down and screw replacement for those of us with A.D.D. .....
http://www.youtube.com/user/okfirearms |
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Posted: 2/2/2010 12:41:09 PM
[Last Edit: 2/2/2010 12:43:31 PM by mike12345]
that mag mod for ban states, im going to say that aint legal.
You have to remove the extra lenght on the mag. You could just drill/punch out the roll pin and it holds more than 10rds again. It has to be permanent. Thats like saying someone in CA can have a new beta-c-mag if i drill a hole and put a pin in the feed tower. It dosent work that way. |
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Posted: 2/6/2010 4:27:53 PM
well, i JUST finished up the screw replacement on the pistol! I started it, then decided to hit up youtube. lol.
everything is swapped, red locktite on the bolt sleeve screws like its recommended. Never taken it down that far before, it was a learning experiance. Now i gotta order another set for my SD. |
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Posted: 3/4/2010 6:34:29 PM
[Last Edit: 3/5/2010 4:53:11 PM by DannyinTexas]
I wanted to say that I followed the posted mods step by step and it all worked.
My trigger pull went from "crushing light bulbs with pliers" to a smooth, single pop. Night and day difference. thanks all. |
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Posted: 3/11/2010 10:24:12 PM
Originally Posted By jackal2001:
[div style='text-align: center;']Laser Mod by franky4fun</center id=center> This mod can only be done on Gen1 Guns with the ability for the end cap to be unscrewed. You should not use the nut that came with the laser, if you do you will not have enough thread on the laser to get it in. Here a quick guide how I did it: The manual that came with the laser: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l340/GSG5Host2/lasermod/gebruiksaanwijzing-laser.jpg Take the retaining screw out (botom of the fake can): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l340/GSG5Host2/lasermod/inbouwen_laser_GSG5_01.jpg Take the fake can off: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l340/GSG5Host2/lasermod/inbouwen_laser_GSG5_02.jpg Take the cap out of the cocking tube: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l340/GSG5Host2/lasermod/inbouwen_laser_GSG5_03.jpg Take the body of from the laser (don't need it): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l340/GSG5Host2/lasermod/inbouwen_laser_GSG5_04.jpg Dremel some material from the bottom of the laser to make the fake can fit again: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l340/GSG5Host2/lasermod/inbouwen_laser_GSG5_05.jpg Turn the laser in without the nut (I did use a O-ring but a smaller one): http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l340/GSG5Host2/lasermod/inbouwen_laser_GSG5_06.jpg Put the fake can back on: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l340/GSG5Host2/lasermod/inbouwen_laser_GSG5_07.jpg And ready it is: http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l340/GSG5Host2/lasermod/inbouwen_laser_GSG5_08.jpg The laser did srew on tightly, because of the O-ring it is secure from movement. I did tight it pretty much using the hexkey that is used for windage and alivation (used it as a lever, but be carefull with that, don't break the hex screws). The upper adjustment scew is now at exactly 12 o'clock. Using the hexkey as a lever secures the laser so much that I can not turn it with my bare hands any more. Tomorow I will go out to the range to test it's "holding zero" capacity. I think it will hold zero just fine because of the 3 srew design, they hold each other in place. EDIT: because of the flat base I dremeld on the botom of the laser it can't be turned any how because the fake can is in the way. If you take care when dremeling and make it a precise fit (best would be to dremel the same radius as the fake can) it will be imposible to move the laser head. The cable switch is attached to the forgrip using some inner tube of a bicycle, the cable is wraped around the front of the handguard, ones around the barrel and out of one of the holes in the front handguard. I did indeed nitch out a little section on the foregrip to put the cable trough. I did this mod today on a gen 2 gun. Don't be afraid to drill, it's no big deal. And, I didn't buy a 45 dollar metric tap either, I just dremeled off the end of the laser tube, and sealed it in the end. Works great. I used a 3/4 drill bit, and a 1/2 drill bit, and the laser housing. I got the laser from that uncompany listed somewhere here, thanks for that whoever posted that link. I drilled about .50 inches into the fake button with the 3/4 drill bit, and then reamed out the tube about one inch and a ahlf down from the front with the 1/2 bit. Then epoxied the threaded part of the laser housing I cut off into the hole. Waited about an hour, and screwed in the laser. The epoxy took an incredible amount of force so I know it's not going anywhere. |
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Posted: 3/18/2010 8:59:06 AM
Originally Posted By mike12345:
that mag mod for ban states, im going to say that aint legal. You have to remove the extra lenght on the mag. You could just drill/punch out the roll pin and it holds more than 10rds again. It has to be permanent. Thats like saying someone in CA can have a new beta-c-mag if i drill a hole and put a pin in the feed tower. It dosent work that way. that all depends on what your state views as perminent. If it specifically says that the length is an issue, well then there you go. here NJ we are limited to 15 rds. in any semiauto. Everyone has 20 and 30 rd. AR mags that are blocked to 15 rds. they arent cut down. Dont get me wrong we cant pull the floor plate and put a dowel in because the law says that specific practice is not perminent. but it say nothing about having to cut the mags down either. and that s the only clarification we receive. |
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Posted: 7/30/2010 1:16:09 PM
ok how important is it to change out the screws? just got a SD model (pre cosmetic changes with no can).
also same with getting a buffer. Is the buffer a must have item? thanks |
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Posted: 11/18/2010 8:32:59 PM
[Last Edit: 11/27/2010 8:51:38 AM by Bubba1985]
GSG-5 Fake Suppressor Large Cover
https://sites.google.com/site/roscoeworld/home/gsg-5-fake-suppressor-large-cover ![]() |
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Posted: 11/19/2010 11:18:18 PM
Originally Posted By dayphotog:
ok how important is it to change out the screws? just got a SD model (pre cosmetic changes with no can). also same with getting a buffer. Is the buffer a must have item? thanks I would rate both as must-haves. They are cheap and will ensure your gun runs reliably.... they both prevent some known wear & tear issues. |
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Posted: 1/11/2011 10:24:20 PM
[Last Edit: 1/22/2011 3:36:59 PM by Popcop]
Bluing made easy
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Posted: 1/13/2011 1:47:26 AM
I just picked one up yesterday, a GSG-522 SD which came from the factory with the new "legal" fake can and has a weaver rail on top.
Has anything been changed in the newer guns to alleviate some of the inherent issues they had in the earlier models? I'm just trying to figure out what preventative measures I should take before I start throwing lead down range. |
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Posted: 2/9/2011 9:46:05 AM
After 3 1/2 hours of dremeling and test fitting, I was soooo disappointed on the toy feel of the ICS SEF lower housing. I felt I had just thrown away 40 bucks (30+shipping). The difference between the OEM housing and the ICS is SUBSTANTIAL! Sure it LOOKS great, but it feels like a heavy toy. I felt even worse when I found a genuine unused SEF housing for 60 bucks!!! Pictured is the feather light ICS.
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Posted: 3/25/2011 12:47:31 PM
[Last Edit: 3/25/2011 1:05:03 PM by 2StateTrigger]
Anyone ever feel like they've experienced a double tap with the pull of trigger once? I could have sworn that I had that experience the last time I went out with the trusty GSG5......
My humble home defense tools......Hope to never use them in a home defense situation but you NEVER know these days.... |
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Posted: 5/6/2011 10:09:29 PM
Heyooo.....
Im a new member here, and recently purchased a Gen2 GSG522SD. So far, I love it, and have quite a few mods being shipped to me as we speak. I will update the site with my mods as I install them, but right now, I want to share this simple mod with you guys. I saw a mod where a gentleman painted the letters and logos on his gsg with a fine tipped brush and some acrylic. While his finished product looked excellent, the task itself is meticulous and painstaking, and not for everyone. The crayon mod, as you will see is much easier, takes less time, requires less artistic skill and dosent even require a steady hand. First, let me say that I got this idea from my brother, who did this to his SW MP22, which is a polymer reciever. As it turns out, the results are not much different on the alum reciever of the GSG. What you need: Box of Crayola crayons Clean cloth (I used an old white tank top) Warm water Toothpick Silicone Gun Cloth Take your choice of color crayon and press firmly down into the lettering. You will want to work from the edge of the letter IN, towards the center of the letter. If you try to trace along the letter, the wax will stick to the crayon and come out. Continue until the lettering is full of wax. Easy.
You will have some excess wax along the sides. It will look like this.
Dont worry about that. Take your toothpick and gently scrape away the bulk of the excess around the lettering. Take a slightly damp, warm cloth, and wipe away the excess, constantly folding the cloth to keep it clean. Eventually you will wipe the surrounding areas clean. This wont take long. You may need to repeat these steps to fill your lettering.
I suggest doing the small stuff last, and also if using white, doing that last.
You may end up having to scrape out the lettering with the toothpick if you get a darker color in the white.
Continue until youre finished. Youll see that not ALL of the crayon came off around the lettering, in the pics above. The final step will fix that. Take your silicone gun cloth, and give it a firm wipe. Now you have this.
As you can see from the zoomed out pic below, you get a professional finished product, and its MUCH easier than paint.
As for longevity, my brother did this about 2 yrs ago, and after 5000+ rounds and many hot summer days, the wax has not deformed or faded. Give it a shot! |
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Posted: 12/13/2011 10:54:26 PM
i have a gsg 522 rifle build in july of 2011 (post lawsuit version)
do i still need to do the screw upgrade on mine? |
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Posted: 5/21/2012 10:15:17 PM
im in line to purchase the GSG and already have it built on paper (20 some-odd mods w/ build thread coming soon). My question is if the screw upgrade, firing pin job, and other associated improvement mods (aside from cosmetic) have been resolved and or necessary to be done on the later model GSG-522's (3rd gen). ive noticed this question has come up many times before in so many words but its unclear what the definitive answer may be.
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Posted: 10/4/2012 10:53:31 PM
[Last Edit: 10/4/2012 11:11:07 PM by Afterburn]
Originally Posted By 2StateTrigger:
Anyone ever feel like they've experienced a double tap with the pull of trigger once? I could have sworn that I had that experience the last time I went out with the trusty GSG5...... Just saw your post, and figured better late response than never... TL;DR: Yes. Full Story: At the end of 2008 I had noticed my GSG-5 "double tapping" with a single trigger pull. I contacted ATI and they told me to ship it to them for repair. I later received this in email from ATI: "There are only two reasons a GSG-5 would double tap, first would be if the barrel stuck out beyond the breech block, the second would be if someone cut the firing pin spring. I looked at your barrel it was flush, then I pulled your bolt apart and low and behold about 1/3 of the spring had been cut off, which would violate the warranty." They asked me to call them to clear it all up, which I did. At first it sounded like they were implicating me in altering the firearm (I had not). I explained that would be crazy; why would I modify the gun to create an illegal situation, then send it back to the company, all the while wondering why my gun isn't working properly? It doesn't add up. In the end they agreed to repair the gun under warranty. Still not sure if it's completely fixed - I haven't had much chance to take it to the range over the years... (has it been that long? )
Hope this helps - Joe P.S. Even though I thought they were trying to void my warranty, they were in the end extremely helpful. It did take more than a month to get the gun back but it was around the holiday season so it's understandable. |
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