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Posted: 8/9/2015 5:07:58 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
Hello, I am trying to understand a couple things about how a PS90 functions, particularly how the barrel is held in place As I understand it, there is a spring to maintain tension on the barrel, and the flash hider (in a P90 or sbr) or the barrel sleeve (in a PS90) threads onto the barrel and uses the face of the receiver to shoulder up against to retain it.. is that correct and is that all holding the barrel in? Correct! Given this fact, the gun will not function without something (a flash hider, sleeve, or adaptor) threaded to the end of the barrel. Also correct! ALso, how difficult is it to swap those out in the SBR form (say I want to go back and forth between using the stock FH and a silencer adaptor. Is that doable on the range or does that require tools (how much do you have to tighten down the muzzle attachment)? It's not real easy, the barrel must be torqued to 35 ft lbs. If you are considering a Can I'd go with the GemTech P90 muzzle attachment which will also take certain GemTech Cans. Thanks GemTech P90 Bi-Lock attachment... 
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Posted: 8/10/2015 1:22:10 PM EDT
[#2]
Another option for you when you SBR the rifle is to use the flash hider/brake/suppressor 1/2x28 adapter that is offered by several companies. That way it's easy to screw on your favorite suppressor or any 1/2x28 brake or flash hider. This is what I went with and as long as I don't torque it down too hard I can pull my A2 flash hider off by hand and immediately put on the suppressor. Works great.
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Posted: 8/12/2015 6:56:21 PM EDT
[#3]
Thanks y'all, I will prob go with a 1/2x28 thread adapter for going between a sparrow or an A2. I sure would like to have been able to swap between the P90 FH and a can ("in the field"). I dont have any gemtech cans, I am liking the idea of the sparrow for the length/weight, or a direct thread 5.56 can for maximum dB reduction.
35ft lb... like an AR-barrel nut. How exact does that need to be (I assume that, if I have the skill to do an AR barrel swap then swapping PS90 muzzle devices is doable)? |
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Posted: 8/14/2015 3:15:02 PM EDT
[#4]
I went with a 3-lug adapter on top of the TROS adapter that you get when you send the barrel to him to be chopped and threaded.
You will need a thinned down 15mm wrench - or else a cone wrench for working on bicycles will work. |
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Posted: 8/15/2015 7:22:35 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I went with a 3-lug adapter on top of the TROS adapter that you get when you send the barrel to him to be chopped and threaded. You will need a thinned down 15mm wrench - or else a cone wrench for working on bicycles will work. Thinned down as in can I do it with a dremel? or one of these |
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Posted: 8/15/2015 9:26:59 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I went with a 3-lug adapter on top of the TROS adapter that you get when you send the barrel to him to be chopped and threaded. You will need a thinned down 15mm wrench - or else a cone wrench for working on bicycles will work. Thinned down as in can I do it with a dremel? or one of these I did mine with a bench grinder but I suppose you'll eventually get there with a Dremel  The cone wrench is more than slim enough though:  |
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Posted: 8/16/2015 12:05:36 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks y'all, I will prob go with a 1/2x28 thread adapter for going between a sparrow or an A2. I sure would like to have been able to swap between the P90 FH and a can ("in the field"). I dont have any gemtech cans, I am liking the idea of the sparrow for the length/weight, or a direct thread 5.56 can for maximum dB reduction. 35ft lb... like an AR-barrel nut. How exact does that need to be (I assume that, if I have the skill to do an AR barrel swap then swapping PS90 muzzle devices is doable)? Not to sound sloppy or dangerous, but the torque doesn't need to be that specific. This was told to me by the guys (guy?) at TROS. He said the only reason there even is a lb recommendation was to keep guys from cranking on it and breaking something. If it's too tight, either something will break, or there will not be enough slack for the barrel to reciprocate and you will have nonstop reliability issues. I was very worried about the specifics of it as well, but seriously, I shouldn't have been. You just tighten it down until it's good, and you're done. Mine has had 100% reliability and has been superbly accurate considering I'm shooting offhand with a gun clearly not designed for target work. |
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Posted: 8/16/2015 12:57:14 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not to sound sloppy or dangerous, but the torque doesn't need to be that specific. This was told to me by the guys (guy?) at TROS. He said the only reason there even is a lb recommendation was to keep guys from cranking on it and breaking something. If it's too tight, either something will break, or there will not be enough slack for the barrel to reciprocate and you will have nonstop reliability issues. I was very worried about the specifics of it as well, but seriously, I shouldn't have been. You just tighten it down until it's good, and you're done. Mine has had 100% reliability and has been superbly accurate considering I'm shooting offhand with a gun clearly not designed for target work. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Thanks y'all, I will prob go with a 1/2x28 thread adapter for going between a sparrow or an A2. I sure would like to have been able to swap between the P90 FH and a can ("in the field"). I dont have any gemtech cans, I am liking the idea of the sparrow for the length/weight, or a direct thread 5.56 can for maximum dB reduction. 35ft lb... like an AR-barrel nut. How exact does that need to be (I assume that, if I have the skill to do an AR barrel swap then swapping PS90 muzzle devices is doable)? Not to sound sloppy or dangerous, but the torque doesn't need to be that specific. This was told to me by the guys (guy?) at TROS. He said the only reason there even is a lb recommendation was to keep guys from cranking on it and breaking something. If it's too tight, either something will break, or there will not be enough slack for the barrel to reciprocate and you will have nonstop reliability issues. I was very worried about the specifics of it as well, but seriously, I shouldn't have been. You just tighten it down until it's good, and you're done. Mine has had 100% reliability and has been superbly accurate considering I'm shooting offhand with a gun clearly not designed for target work. If Mark at TROS said it doesn't have to be exact, that's good enough for me. Mark DEFINATELY knows the PS90. |
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Posted: 8/24/2015 4:20:48 PM EDT
[#9]
You'll always shoot it suppressed, so no need to swap out.
My recommendation is to make an F1 can. Unlike 22, which you can readily find in standard/subsonic form, the 5.7x28 is mainly supersonic. The Sparrow I bought for mine is the only suppressor purchase I've made that I regret. So much so I'm going to buy another host just to use it on. I went with the TROS setup, and have his adapter with SiCo o-ring engagement: 
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Posted: 8/24/2015 7:33:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You'll always shoot it suppressed, so no need to swap out.
My recommendation is to make an F1 can. Unlike 22, which you can readily find in standard/subsonic form, the 5.7x28 is mainly supersonic. The Sparrow I bought for mine is the only suppressor purchase I've made that I regret. So much so I'm going to buy another host just to use it on. I went with the TROS setup, and have his adapter with SiCo o-ring engagement: http://i751.photobucket.com/albums/xx151/thegreghorton/Mobile%20Uploads/79A1B044-6BFA-43E4-8CFA-ABBEA47F743B_zpsoxe1mwhv.jpg You regret your sparrow? I was planning to use it on the ps90. Does it not suppress 5.7 well? I wasn't too concerned with ultra silent but I did not want to add much weight/length. How does a 22 9 .45 or .223 can compare to each other in the sound dept? |
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Posted: 8/24/2015 8:38:58 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Another option for you when you SBR the rifle is to use the flash hider/brake/suppressor 1/2x28 adapter that is offered by several companies. That way it's easy to screw on your favorite suppressor or any 1/2x28 brake or flash hider. This is what I went with and as long as I don't torque it down too hard I can pull my A2 flash hider off by hand and immediately put on the suppressor. Works great. http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u196/jaflowers/PS90_zpsnoyohcj1.jpg   |
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Posted: 8/25/2015 10:03:35 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You regret your sparrow? I was planning to use it on the ps90. Does it not suppress 5.7 well? I wasn't too concerned with ultra silent but I did not want to add much weight/length. How does a 22 9 .45 or .223 can compare to each other in the sound dept? Yes, for this particular application. Supersonic ammo, so it's going to be loud. Most of those cans are going to handle the suppression at the muzzle fairly decently, but not the sonic crack. I'm not saying the Sparrow is a bad can, it's just my least favorite. It doesn't do anything any better than a Spectre II (I have three of those), yet costs ~$75-$100 more. Yes, it's an inch shorter, but only .3oz lighter. I just wish I'd built an F1 can to dedicate to the PS90 SBR for 1/4 the price of the Sparrow, especially considering there's no need to worry about a piston/booster. I've ordered a Ruger American Rimfire 22LR, and will move the Sparrow over to it, where it should shine. The PS90 is actually a very versatile host. I can run 14 of my 16 cans on it if I wanted to...only the pair of Warlocks can't be used. |
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