After getting into graduate school, I decided that, as a sort of present to myself, I was going to buy a high end "black rifle". I did a lot of research on a lot of different weapons, and ended up choosing the FN FS2000. I have since put tons of rounds through it, put it to use in everything from competition to small game hunting, and made a few modifications along the way. I'll try and be as thorough as I can without being too long winded, but here are my thoughts and experiences regarding the weapon. Consider this a review, as well as a 'beginners guide' to all things FS2000.


I paid $1550 for a very lightly used FS2000. The previous owner put 20 rounds through the weapon to sight it in, and put it in the safe. Which, while I'm at it, brings me to my first point: price. Lots of people complain about the high price of the FS2000. MSRP is over $2000, but they can easily be found in the $15-1800 range. Thats substantially cheaper than the SCAR and ACR, and in roughly the same league as a loaded SIG 556 or entry level AUG A3. Not a bad deal. The FS2000 is not a 'heavy wear' gun. The design makes for a very clean-shooting and wear-free weapon, even after several thousand rounds. Even a decently used FS2000 should remain in great shape internally.

I couldnt shoot the rifle as soon as I got it, so I had plenty of time to get a feel for the guns ergonomics, balance, and overall feel. Its a thick, squatty gun. Its as bulky as the pictures make it seem, but its far more ergonomic than I ever guessed it would be. Even being almost twice as "fat" in the receiver/body area as an AR, it shoulders up nicely, points quickly, and balances almost perfectly. With the weight of the weapon centered nicely over your strong hand, you could hold the gun at the ready with one hand comfortably if need be, its that balanced.

First thing I noticed, it really needs an optic. The backup iron sights are just that, backups. The rear sight is a simple flip up post with a small hole in it. Much like the SIG 556 sight. The sights sit low, and the hole in the rear sight is very small, so these sights are not useful for quick target acquisition. The sight radius is short, so the small peep sight helps to offset this, I'm sure. I installed an optic right away. Much better. I can still cowitness the irons if need be, using an aimpoint low-mount ring. Although the irons are a little slow for quick-targeting, they are very accurate. I was routinely hitting a torso sized steel plate at 200 yards while standing up.

The charging handle is alot like an HK G3 handle, it pivots, then slides backward to be locked in the upright position. One of the issues I read about with this rifle is breakage of the charging handle. Apparently, if you "HK slap" the polymer handle with a strong downward force, it may snap off. The manual reccomends against this practice, and users who do not slap the handle dont report any issues. I have racked the charging handle hundreds and hundreds of times with no issues, and I dont expect any either. I dont plan on slapping it around, though. This is not to say that locking the bolt backward and inserting a mag, then releasing the charging handle is out of the question. Simply 'bump' the handle downward rather than slapping it.

Mounting of accessories: I planned on using this weapon as both a home defense weapon and a varmint rifle. In order to do this, I wanted a flashlight of some sort that could be mounted on the gun. The problem is, out of the box, there is no easy way to do this. The top rail has plenty of space for optics, but you cant really use it for a light, because even with an offset mount, the charging handle gets in the way. Your options are to either buy the FN tri-rail, which is an expensive but worthwhile choice, or to modify the factory handguard to accept a light. This requires dremel work and installation of a pressure switch onto your light. I chose the tri rail, even though it is relatively expensive ($150-65). I like the tri rail for several reasons. Its (in my opinion) more visually appealing than the funky handguard, it allows for easy, versatile placement of a light, and it also allows for use of a vertical grip. I found that with a vertical grip installed, pointability of the weapon improved.

Sling-  The design of the gun basically requires that you use a complex sling system. You cant readily snap hooks on either end of the gun and call it a day. If youre inventive, Im sure something could be rigged up to work, but the best option is the Urban Sentry Sling from Urban ERT. Its relatively expensive ($70ish) but its really the only ‘professional grade’ sling out there for this gun.

Flash hider/Suppression – The stock FN unit is pinned in place, and must be removed before any other muzzle devices can be installed. Reportedly, suppressors with AR adaptors may fit over the stock muzzle device, but can work loose due to the slant of the flash hider.

Magazines. It takes any GI style 30 round AR mag. No PMags, no Emags, no Lancers or other polymer mags. The FN mag that the weapon comes with is junk, the follower sticks and the mag is worthless. I ordered 10 C-Products mags and have had flawless performance with all of them. They are by and large considered to be the best quality metal AR mag available, and they come equipped with Magpul antitilt followers. I'd reccomend loading to 28 rounds, as they are easier to insert on a closed bolt.

This brings me to the next point. The mag well has a rubber seal inside that keeps debris out of the action and makes it nearly dust/sand proof. The trade off is that mags do not drop freely. Bullpup mags usually do not drop free anyway, and being a civilian, not in combat, I see this as a non issue. You have to give the mag a firm push to be sure it is seated past the rubber seal. The mag may FEEL seated, but it might not be. This results in a double feed when you chamber the weapon. This is the root cause of many many reports of "jamming" with this gun. Simple user error.

And with that, I'll say that this gun is NOT an AR. The manual of arms is different, very different. Expect it to behave like an AR, and you will be disappointed, and the weapon will probably malfunction. There is no last round bolt hold open. The design of the gun doesnt allow it, and I dont believe it is necessary anyway. If you insert a mag but dont seat it all the way, the gun will jam. If you insert a mag on an open bolt and ride the bolt forward instead of pulling and letting it fly forward, the gun will jam. If you experience a jam and yank back and forth on the charging handle, you will compound your problem and add more jammed rounds into the mix. You MUST remove the mag, THEN rack the charging handle, then reinsert mag. I would guess that 90% of the malfunctions with this weapon are user induced.

The other 10%? Well, its a 5.56 NATO weapon, and youre supposed to feed it milspec 5.56 ammunition. The gun is VERY tolerant of other types of ammo, however. About the only ammo it doesnt like is steel cased black-box WOLF ammo. This stuff is too underpowered, and the rifle will short-stroke regularly. Even still, just flip the gas switch over to the ADVERSE setting, and it will digest WOLF in a hurry. I have shot many many different types of ammo through the rifle, and the only ones I had any feeding issues with were Wolf black box. Everything else worked flawlessly. Just remember that if Wolf is all you have access to, you may need to flip the gas switch over to 'adverse'.

Accuracy. Using an Aimpoint, it grouped just as good as my buddies AR (with EOTECH) at 75 yards. The barrel is 17.25 inches long, with a 1/7 twist. There is no reason not to expect great accuracy from the weapon, and I have been impressed so far.

Shooting impressions- the recoil is negligible, as the recoil axis is a straight line into the users shoulder. I.E. no downward angled stock like with an AK or G3 series rifle. The gun does seem abnormally loud, partially due to the proximity of the barrel to the users ears. It’s a good 6-10 inches closer than a normal rifle, due to the bullpup design. The trigger is heavy, just like with most any bullpup. Its kind of mushy, Glock-like would be a good descriptor. It does, however, have a noticeable ‘second stage’. Once you get the hang of the trigger, its easy to shoot accurately.

Heres the BIGGEST ISSUE I have run into so far........You MAY have light primer strikes with some types of ammo. The FS2000 underwent a number of factory modifications (for 'our safety') that, to make a long story short, ended up making the firing pin hit too softly on some hard military primers. It all depends on the generation of your rifle, but if you end up with light hits, this is why. There are two solutions: you can either remove the firing pin buffer spring (or a few coils from it) as long as you plan on using mostly hard-primered ammo. Or, you can send the gun in to FN and have them install a stronger hammer spring, which supposedly alleviates the issue.

I opted to simply remove the buffer spring myself. I did that very early on, and have since put thousands of rounds through the FS2000 without a SINGLE JAM. NONE. I have used Barnaul Steel Cased, Winchester, Federal, old MilSurp, Wolf, Monarch, Remington, and several other types of ammo and had ZERO issues after removing the buffer spring.

Heres the cliff notes for those of you who dont care to read everything. The FS2000 is an extremely compact and ergonomic weapon, with a 17.25 inch barrel in a bullpup platform thats still shorter than most SBRs. Use quality GI mags with antitilt followers. Dont treat it like an AR, the manual of arms is more like an AK. FN installed a buffer spring in the firing pin that causes light strikes in milspec ammo. As long as you dont plan on using soft-primered hunting rounds, remove this spring (a thirty second affair) and restore the weapon to its original configuration. It will fire all sorts of ammo reliably, even the steel cased stuff. I havent had a jam in thousands of rounds. The FS2000 is an incredibly reliable, compact, manuverable weapon. Its not cheap, but its a solid and unique platform that will keep paces with the finest rifles out there.

PRO:
-uses the ubiquitous AR15 magazine
-despite its odd looks and bulk, it IS ergonomic
-very well balanced
-accuracy is on par with the average AR
-forward eject means its completely lefty-friendly
-extremely compact and light – its shorter than an SBR AR even with the stock collapsed
-its a big time attention getter at the range
-its very reliable

CONS:
-the trigger. Its mushy, Glock-like, but at least lighter than an AUG
-its thick, and the foregrip is quite fat. Ergonomic, but I don’t care for the look or feel of the foregrip.
-needs the expensive ($160) tri-rail to be able to effectively mount a light/vertical grip
-The firing pin buffer spring may need to be removed before it will reliably ignite milsurp ammo
-chamber access is limited.
-most malfunctions can be cleared by stripping the mag and racking the bolt, but more severe ones require disassembly
-the charging handle cant take (IMO) battlefield levels of abuse
-parts, while available, are expensive and a pain to get


The verdict? The FS2000 is a great gun, but dont pay the MSRP, I dont think its worth that. Its an awesome weapon, but strictly in terms of price, the advantages aren’t necessarily worth the premium you pay. Find one for $1600 used, it isn’t hard to do. For that kind of money, the benefits of the weapon package start to even out with the cost difference.

The charging handle limits its overall durability. Don’t smack the handle around, and you should be fine. However, a gun is only as durable as its weakest part, and the charging handle is kind of important….. I see the FS2000 as a great carbine for law enforcement or civilian personal defense, i.e. for someone who wont necessarily subject it to battlefield-levels of abuse. Its compact, accurate, reliable, attractive, and ergonomic. It has its flaws however. Its simply up to the buyer to decide if its worth it or not.

I certainly believe it is.

Good write up.  While I have no desire, what-so-ever, to purchase that god-awful looking contraption, I enjoyed your write-up.

- AG

One thing I didnt include in the writeup was the ambidextrous element of the gun. Empty casings are ejected forward through a tube that runs underneath the top rail. The end of this tube has a trapdoor, kind of like the dust cover on an AR. If you leave this door closed, the empties will open it automatically after five rounds have been fired. If left open, the empties will eject one by one.

Contrary to rumors seen online, the ejection tube will NOT plug up with empty casings, even if fired straight upward. The forceful action of the bolt moving forward is what propels the casings out. This is also why a bolt-hold open is not possible with this design. Without the bolt going forward, there is no way to eject the last casing that was fired. Obviously, not a desireable feature.

Even if debris gets into the ejection tube, the force generated by the ejection mechanism will simply propel the dirt out along with the casing. According to a durability/function test that was done when considering the gun for military adoption in some European nations, the tube was plugged with various types of debris and it still ejected. Snow, ice, small sticks, small rocks, etc. The only way they were able to jam the action was to cram a dowel rod into the tube and fix it in place with some sort of adhesive. What are the odds of that happening in the field?



Another omission from the initial review- the "tactical" version is the one seen in the photo, it comes equipped with a flat-top rail and iron sights, and is available in black or OD green. The "standard" version comes equipped with a 1.5x optical sight that is essentially a part of the weapon. It is removable, but there are no back up sights after the optic has been removed. The rail that is left behind after the optical pod has been removed sits lower than the rail on the 'tactical' model, though iron sights can still be installed on it. The 'standard' model, in my opinion, is rather unattractive and is much more limiting in terms of optics.




Also, the safety is totally ambidextrous and works just like the one found on the P90/Ps90 (the rotating drum type)

This is an excellent post.  You've hit on all of the major points of the FS2000.  I don't think I've ever seen it as concisely or well-written.

Definitely agree on the "it's not an AR" analysis.  Try to shoot it like one, and you'll hate it.  Treat it like a bullpup or even a conventional layout Euro rifle and it works better.

Anyway, great work.

Thank you.

Would it be beneficial to sticky this thread?

very well done.  I have an Eotec XPS 2-2 with a 3x mag on mine (a standard model).  I would like to put on some folding BUIS but I dont think it will fit, so I agree with your assessment aboutthe standard model limiting sight options.  The cleanliness of the internals even after hundreds of rounds fired is quite remarkable.  My cleaning of this rifle consists of nothing more than a wipedown followed by relubeing.  The piston is pretty easy to keep clean with any cleaner that breaks up carbon (I use Gunslicks Foaming Bore Cleaner).  I had only one handload that wouldnt cycle in the normal gas setting (a 36 grain varment grenade load) but that was quickly rectified by setting the gas position to adverse.

Everything I have experienced with mine leads me to agree totally with your writeup.  Again, great job!

If you use the old style Yankee Hill Machine BUIS they will, particularly the rear, take up the least amount of rail space of any that I looked at. I had the YHM BUIS, with the front reversed to fold down forward, a Eotech 512 and LaRue Po' boy magnifier all comfortably mounted on a tactical.

Yeah its tough to get irons, eotech and magnifier all to fit on the same rail, but with the right set of sights its possible

I plan on replacing the stock irons with a set of Magpul BUIS. This will shorten sight radius even more, but will give me a better cheek weld and will co witness with most any standard height optic.

Another good (but more expensive) option is the Troy low-profile flip up sights.

Another issue I forgot to mention is that the grip angle, while comfortable enough for normal shooting, is angled sharply, and tends to aggravate the wrist after carrying the gun in 'patrol position' for a long time. A good solid sling is mandantory with the FS2000, especially if carrying it through the woods while hunting or something. Holding it freehanded will get old very fast

YHM  on FS2K FTW

Excellent write up, but I must disagree with a couple points, as I own one FS2000 just like yours and a new Steyr AUG A3.

First the trigger––-it is not simply just a "mushy" affair it is long, mushy, and extremely heavy at about 10 lbs+.  My trigger finger gets "tired" after trying to shoot accurate groups from the bench, my 11 year old has to use 2 fingers to fire it when I let him shoot it on the bench.  This is a massive detriment to what is very agreeably a rifle as accurate as any AR15 and better, but you will not be able to squeeze it out becasue of the trigger.
The reason I bring this up first is the Trigger Tamer in the AUG takes the trigger to 5-6 lbs with about an 1/8" of creep-very minimal-and everyone who shoots both rifles side by side comments on this and how easy it is to shoot the AUG accurately while you are fighting the FS2000.
Advantage-AUG


The mag release issue-this is not as bug a deal to me as some, but it is a drastic slowdown compared to the AUG wich you can very easily do a one hand speed re-load, go to their website and watch the video of the guys who are professionals do it-it is damn near as fast as the AR.
Advantage AUG

Bolt hold open––yes the AK series has gotten by with this for 60 years, but why would you really NOT want this feature on a $1,800 rifle?  AK's cost $400.
Advantage AUG

Ability to mount lights and verticle grips––the FS costs more new than the AUG and comes with no rails for lights and a verticle grip––the AUG A3 has both these covered from the factory.
Advantage AUG

Mounting a sling-light years easier on the AUG to mount a sling and it comes with the "swivel" type loops from the factory-ready to go
Advantage AUG

I am right handed so yes the FS wins if you are a lefty and you only want AR style mags in all your guns the FS wins, but the AUG mags are very well built and are see through, I like them.

If the Steyr would have been out a few years earlier I would have bought it first and never looked back, I think the FS is a very reliable weapon (once you fix the light primer strikes issue) and has excellent accuracy, but its deficiencies outweigh its positive points when compared to a similar priced AUG right out the box.
And the AUG comes with a nice padded carry case that holds the rifle in it secure, and 2 30 round mags, and the mentioned rail and grip on the front.

If you all go shoot an AUG you will want one, and the FS will sit in the safe.
Now if someone came up with a real trigger job, and a less expensive rail system for the FS I might move it up a notch.

As far as I know, the Bolt hold Open thing is not possible on the FS2000 because of the forward eject feature. The forward motion of the bolt is what powers the ejection mechanism, so a last round hold open would leave a spent casing behind in the action.

I too am a righty, so the ambi nature of the FS is basically worthless, but for a lefty it might be a worthy trade. I have shot the AUG series extensively and agree with you mostly. The STG that I shot had a shorter but seemingly heavier trigger. It was also less reliable. The AUG A3, now Id certainly rank it above the FS2000. In terms of reliability the FS has the Microtech clones beat, at least in my personal experience.

The RFB appears to have a a bolt-hold-open feature and it's forward eject.  On their web site video it looks like the ejector just retains the shell until the bolt is released.  Maybe not ideal but still possible.

 

^^Interesting. I have ten of them. Maybe I should test fire all of them extensively, at least more so than I have.

I got all ten, picked out three to be my 'always loaded go-to mags' and function tested them with several hundred rounds through each. I put a mag worth of ammo through the remaining seven mags with no issues, but I suppose something could be wrong with them that I havent noticed yet

Next time I go to the range, I will try a different batch of mags.

Very informative! Ever since I fondled one at my local gun store, I've wanted one of those things but given my financial situation I can't justify purchasing I gun that I don't consider "battle worthy". I think it has potential though, maybe they'll fix the issues eventually.

Adding a new pic that shows the gun with tri rail

What is that in front of the trigger guard on the rail?

Its a sling swivel.

I usually carry the weapon on a single point sling when out in the woods hunting or something, but if its a longer hike, I will hook the sling up to both points and it goes on the shoulder

Man I hate to sound superficial, but that tri-rail looks damn good.



I need to unsubscribe from this thread before I have to start shelling out some bux.

I think the Tri-Rail TOTALLY changes the appearance AND feel of the gun for the better

The stock handguard is goofy looking, and in my opinion, uncomfortable/impractical

The rail setup not only allows a vertical grip, but also fixes one of the biggest issues with the FS: no place for lights

I love mine, its not cheap, but its probably the second most important thing you can buy for this gun, first being an optic

I added it in there a couple days ago

I scoured the internet for an honest, in depth review of this gun and found nothing, so I figured it would make a good addition to the pinned group

My next project is going to be find someone with a dremel who can do the flashlight modification to my handguard. Am I allowed to make a post on here about that, or is that against COC?

I would say buy a dremel and read some of the DIY guides on that mod I see no reason why it would be a COC violation but I'm just some regular asshole, not a mod.

OP great looking rifle and equally great review.

UPDATE:

Lancer L5 mags DO work in this rifle as long as you sand down the little ridge on the side.

These are excellent mags, see through, and the modification does not affect the integrity of the mag in any way.

Check out page 13 of the FS2000/P90 picture thread for an example of this.

Thats one of the cooler looking FS2000's I've seen.

Im ditching the tri rail to go to a light mounted handguard, I just like the sleek lines more.

EOtech is next on the list.

Youre my inspiration (is that gay?)

Not gay! Haha thanks though for the "props"

Good write-up on the FS2000. A good, honest review from the perspective of an owner/shooter of the FS2000.

As for my two cents...........

I own the bone stock standard model, and love it as is. But the modular feature of the optics unit allows for some flexibility if I need it, just not on the level of the "tactical" model.

Getting a sling wasn't a problem for me. Nor did it hurt my wallet. Uncle Mike's nylon utility sling. Ten bucks at my local hunting outfitter. Problem solved.

I personally don't have a problem with the trigger on this weapon. In my opinion, it's okay for what the rifle is. I wasn't expecting a bench rest rifle when I picked this thing up from my local FN dealer.

As for the lack of a "last shot" bolt hold open feature, I wasn't surprised. The FS2000 is a very European design. Like the 'no drop' magazines in many European handguns, eccentricity is something I expect from the "latest and greatest" Euro-centric designs.

As for the mag provided by FN for the rifle, I haven't had any issues as of yet. But I tend to favor other makes/brands of mags in any case and have plenty of them. So, no biggie.

Once again, great write-up OP.

Thank you.


Heres what I don’t understand about the argument for drop free mags in bullpup type rifles…..
Lets break it down in terms of numbered steps required to reload the weapon.
Gun goes click or bolt locks back, youre OUT of ammo.
1)Reach up with weak hand, grab mag and pull mag out (while pressing mag release)
2)Either discard or stow away spent magazine (hand is down at side, so its easy to move to step 3)
3)Grab new mag and insert into magwell
4)Rack bolt / press bolt release (depends on weapon)

Now youre loaded and back in action. That’s FOUR steps. Lets say the AUG or F2000 had drop-free mag capability, what would the real difference be? You still have to reach up to the weapon to actuate the button to drop your empty mag (step 1) You then have to bring your arm back down to grab a spare mag (step 2) you then have to insert the new mag (step 3), then you have to rack the bolt (step 4).
Its all about economy of movement. With an AR, you can drop your old mag WHILE you reach for a new one, so you are saving a step. With the bullpups, even if they dropped free, youd still have to use your other hand to punch the mag release button, the only difference would be that you would now have a mag on the ground instead of back in your dump pouch. There are probably milliseconds difference between reloading a drop-free F2000 (possible, if you remove the rubber dust gasket) and a non-drop free F2000 (factory standard) but its not enough time difference to make it a worthwhile feature.

Its basically 4 steps to reload either way. The kicker is not being able to drop the mag with your strong hand like on an AR or SIG. Non drop free mags is a silly argument with bullpup rifles.

If anyone has any questions about the FS2000, feel free to email me at [email protected], and I'll do my best to answer them for you.

If you're ever in San Angelo TX and want to shoot it, shoot me an email at the above address.

This is an eotech xps2 and YHM buis on the rail of my fs2000 standard:


The back sight doesn't quite fold down all the way, but close enough so its not in my view, and it stays down while firing.

The rail is (I've read) a little lower on the standard than on the tactical.  The cheek weld is perfect for me on the standard.

If I get another I'll definitely be getting the tactical.

...

... = (Bump)?

....

How do you open the lunch box in the buttstock with that sling attached?  

I disagree with the premise it takes the same amount of time to change mags in a FS2000 as a drop mag AR.

You have fired your last round. With the AR bolt open you don't pull the trigger (To then realize you are out of ammo) but use that same time and movement to drop the mag while your left hand is bringing up a full mag. as you push it in you hit the bolt release about the time the FS2000 is pulling down on his mag.

I have a PWS MK114 and the FS2K (which I love) but claiming there is not a time difference is misleading and inaccurate and does not reflect the more objective OP

I am still not sure how mine will end up. I had two Tac units but sold one (for $1350.00, what I paid for it)
The newer one has both fore ends and I have the tri-rail on now with a Magpul short grip
It is set up for HD so all the goodies which add weight are not relevant as it ain't going cross country.
The photo is not current as I have an Aimpoint M4 clone on it now instead of the EOTech clone. (I try various clones before spending serious money on the real thing)
I have better flashlights but most do more than one thing and I like this cheap one for the house because I know exactly what it will do when I hit the (glow in the dark) button. It turns on the flashlight, not SoS, not strobe not any number of things my CREE lights do just gives me light, what an idea!!!
The laser is also a cheapo red one that also works fine (Notice the touch pad behind the grip my thumb rest on it)

While I don't like the sticky mag and no bolt open feature as a HD gun 30 rounds should be enough. I sure hope so

Most people who just don't get these guns feel different when they shoulder it. It then hits them this was a well thought out design and those who fire one are usually very impressed. I was/am

Wulfmann

My msg gasket burnt out so I punched the whole thing out.. Magazines drop free if you press the Mag release now. Also, an Ar15 is only faster if you are right handed or have an ambi mag release, and even then, you should be in cover (hopefully with someone else covering you) while you do a mag change so Hal a second is no biggie

tag

Is there any reason this rifle doesn't have it's own sling point like a standard stock AR?

Has anyone ever tried to put one on?

How difficult is it to remove a 20rnd mag without a ranger floor plate or magpul?

Is the white plastic looking piece the bolt carrier? Is it not metal for a reason, like it would cause more wear on the plastic receiver or something?

Are there affordable, easy to install trigger mods?

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Yes. There are a few ways to sling it. SKT and urban ert make good slings

About the 20rd magazines, correct, with your off hand, you push the mag release button in with the bridge/top of your hand, and at the same time pull down to take the magazine out.

About the switch, it is very durable. There are a few ways to break/damage it. Incorrect reassembly and some force will crack it, a KB will crack it, and thousands of rounds will wear it down. I replaced two switches wash on different rifles after 5000+ rounds ($14)

Just found this great thread and thought I would add some additional tech to it. A friend of mine brought one in to me this past winter for a shake down and here is what I did on it. sorry for the crossing over, but the info is valuable if you like shooting this design and want a trigger improvement.
Google "fixing the crapy FS2000 trigger" and you will see the work performed.

Just handled one at a gun show. Really like it but getting the mag out takes an effort. Can that rubber seal/gasket be removed to make the mate drop easier?

That issue alone is a deal breaker for me on this rifle.

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Yes it can be removed

How much easier does it make it to remove the mag?

How difficult is it to remove?

I've all but moved on because of that one thing.



 

I used a punch. Once it's out it's out.

It made it extremely easy to take the mag out, they almost drop free.

tag