What ammo do you guys typically run in your M16s.  Is there stuff to stay away from, PRVI etc

Any factory ammo is usually good to go, as long as your gas and buffer are properly set up. I stay away from any reloads (unless they are mine), imo it's easier to miss a squib or some other ammo problem when going full auto.

Only Lake City 5.56 62g or 55g.

M193 or m855

Good stoniest WTH is that? Good to know* the M193 is used by many....bought a good supply today.
 

It's hard stuff to beat at $0.32/round, and if you are a brass picker upper like me, it's great brass!

I save all my brass and give it to my dad, he reloads it and it gets downgraded for use in our AR15s

^^This.^^

The Luckygunner "study" has some wigged out about steel.  Some recent Russian steel (all Tula, IIRC) has been found to have sub-standard projo diameters.  There is no mention of projo diam measurements in the LG "study".  

Gas cutting from .222 diam bimetal (or copper-clad) projos could easily explain premature bbl wear.  Which is to say I don't know whether it's steel jackets or poor QC that causes the excess wear and early loss of stabilization.  

The bigger concern for me is tumbling projos at very low round counts.  

I still have about 10k old BB-poly with non-ferrous projos that all measure about .224 - give or take about .0003.  I do not worry about them "harming" my 16s in any way.  After about 16k of this stuff my 11.5 blaster still does 12" at 100 yds.  No tumbling.  That tells me what I need to know about these particular lots.

When the old BB-poly is gone I'll have decisions to make.  

Sam

IMO low quality steel cased ammo never made sense to me for several reasons

1) The risk of damage to your MG from steel and other low quality ammo is small but is it worth the few cents a round you save?
2) If you or anyone you know reloads the brass def has value, probably more than what you will save by choosing steel.
3) Some people dont like to pick up brass, but as long as you didnt ride a motorized scooter to the firing line you should be capable of picking it up.
4) If you couldnt afford decent mil spec ammo you probably shouldn't have bought a MG. Thats like buying a Ferrari and not being able to afford the premium gas...

Thank you for all the info.  I do reload for my semi autos so decent brass is a bonus.  I would never shoot steel out of any rifle I own. With the silly low price of XM193,  which the consensus here seems to be its GTG, I am happy with buying this ammunition, and the LC brass will be good stuff to use in my other rifles.  Thanks again for the replies.



 

I mainly shoot my reloads.  Also will shoot factory brass and steel (wolf or Brown bear).

Two FTFires in 24 cases, most through just 3 uppers.  Zero stuck cases.  Zero damage to receivers.  Two broken extractors.  However much M16s are valued, Wolf BB poly has been more reliable than brass case stuff (Malay/XMPD/SA/Rad) for me.    

I understand the arguments concerning steel projos and accelerated bore wear, however unclear the cause.  There is that risk.  But the bore has zero to do with the receiver.  No evidence has surfaced to suggest steel-cased ammo puts my receivers at any increased risk, however slight.  

I don't mind "a few cents" more if I'm getting something for it.  If I owned a Ferrari I would run the octane level it needed to obviate preignition.  Pinging has the potential to damage the engine.  So the analogy with steel and my RRs fails.    

OTOH...........the steel to brass price differential is less now than a decade ago.  Looks like $280/k vs $340/k, +/-.  Brass empties are worth more, yes.  So the economic argument makes sense.    

So I will probably buy brass next purchase time.    

Sam

i run almost exclusively steel wolf, brown bear ect in my RLL..... has served me well

To the best of my memory, I've only ever shot Federal or Lake City, both brands in 193 or 855 configuration.

As the saying goes, "Life's too short to shoot cheap ammo!"

FIFY

Still have a bunch of that.
Friend had a 'cop shop', everything except firearms.
Several years after Y2K he informed me that the supply was running out.
I purchased all he had for a few % above his cost and did some electrical-computer work for him.
Never had a hiccup with that ammo.
Same with Hirtenberg 7.62

I don't think the Olympic SS-109 shows up much anymore, the made in Greece.
Was not good, primers popping out, I can't recall all the problems, however, they were all major ones.
Early Y2K production.
I would avoid it.

AMEN! +1 on this.  I still have a shiite ton of that crap.  I'll risk it in a semi auto AK but NOT anywhere near the 16.

Better get reloading!

55gr M193, 26.5gr WC844 powder, LC case, Win primer.  $125/1000.

then this without any regret: