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Posted: 4/9/2014 4:52:17 PM EDT
I'm looking to put together an m4 type ar15 for use with a RLL. Whatever I buy, it will be sent of to m60joe to be modified where necessary. My initial thought was to buy a complete Wyndham AR then send it off. It occurred to me that maybe I could build something for the same or less cost that might make a better RLL host. For example I do not want anything with a tight chamber meant for accuracy. I'd also prefer chrome lined barrel and don't want a polymer receiver.

Should I piece together an AR (either upper and lower or built from smaller parts) or buy a complete rifle? If it is better to piece the gun together, what should I buy? I've looked at the PSA deals but not sure that's the best way to go. I don't want to wind up with something that is built with out of spec or inferior parts that doesn't run properly.

This BCI Defense SQS15 upper appears as though it would be compatible right out of the box.
Link Posted: 4/10/2014 4:35:27 AM EDT
[#1]
If you are competent with firearms i would say build one. I recently made a mk18 upper instead of buying it directly from DD and ended up saving $200+ and got the EXACT gun i wanted, but if you have no clue what you're doing and no tools then i wouldnt mess with it. Also, building a rifle can be a good way to pass the time while youre waiting on your tax stamp (assuming you can legally buy everything you need prior to receiving the tax stamp.)
Link Posted: 4/10/2014 4:18:59 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
If you are competent with firearms i would say build one. I recently made a mk18 upper instead of buying it directly from DD and ended up saving $200+ and got the EXACT gun i wanted, but if you have no clue what you're doing and no tools then i wouldnt mess with it. Also, building a rifle can be a good way to pass the time while youre waiting on your tax stamp (assuming you can legally buy everything you need prior to receiving the tax stamp.)
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Thanks for your input. I already have the link so the parts are all that's required. What do you think of the quality of PSA's parts? They seem like the most cost effective way to put together a host gun. I know with the HK's, the quality of parts you use are extremely important in the final functioning of the gun. So-so parts that function OK in semi sometimes fail in full auto.  

Oh and my level of skill with putting together an AR upper is low. This would be my first one but I'm not looking to put together anything fancy.  
Link Posted: 4/10/2014 5:26:32 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
I'm looking to put together an m4 type ar15 for use with a RLL. Whatever I buy, it will be sent of to m60joe to be modified where necessary.
View Quote


The draw of the RLL is there is nothing to build or modify; it just drops right into the FCG as long as you buy a SP1/FCP.
Link Posted: 4/10/2014 5:30:34 PM EDT
[#4]
Link Posted: 4/10/2014 9:19:35 PM EDT
[#5]
For my main ar, i went with a new 6920 with the m4 rollmark, and had m60joe do the milling, and have a 6933 upper for it. You'll need the bad-ass safety selector or similar to limit the selector travel.  I'm very pleased with the outcome, but i do have two others milled and dremeled one myself.

Last thing to do is get it engraved with "auto" for the selector.
Link Posted: 4/11/2014 2:59:42 PM EDT
[#6]
Guys, thanks a lot for the information. I do have a slickside SP1 carbine. However, I plan on using a protector and do not want to file the underside of the rear lug on my SP1. I know the alteration is small but I just can't do it. A year ago I had planned on using the RLL without a protector but after seeing what they are selling for, I'm also hesitant to go without. That's why I decided to just build up or buy a gun and do the modifications. I could also get it remarked and such. Maybe buying a Colt 6920 and sending it off to m60joe is the way to go (or finding an SP1 that's rough). I could also put an upper on my existing SP1 lower but then I'd have to deal with large to small pin adapter which wouldn't be the end of the world but still seems like a pain.

Maybe another valid option would be to build another upper (with rear lug relieved) using a large hole upper and use my existing SP1 lower.....
Link Posted: 4/12/2014 12:11:49 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Guys, thanks a lot for the information. I do have a slickside SP1 carbine. However, I plan on using a protector and do not want to file the underside of the rear lug on my SP1. I know the alteration is small but I just can't do it. A year ago I had planned on using the RLL without a protector but after seeing what they are selling for, I'm also hesitant to go without. That's why I decided to just build up or buy a gun and do the modifications. I could also get it remarked and such. Maybe buying a Colt 6920 and sending it off to m60joe is the way to go (or finding an SP1 that's rough). I could also put an upper on my existing SP1 lower but then I'd have to deal with large to small pin adapter which wouldn't be the end of the world but still seems like a pain.

Maybe another valid option would be to build another upper (with rear lug relieved) using a large hole upper and use my existing SP1 lower.....
View Quote



Questions on these RLL once you get a lower built and milled the link must stay with that lower correct? Because of the milling of the post 86 lower with out the RLL in it you are then in possession with a illegal lower?

And once milled for the RLL is it easy to swap between any uppers? or is there fitment issues. I have a registered receiver pending, but also kinda want to get a RLL or RDIAS.  But with the price climbing so much on these its tuff to decide because I also want to get some sort of sub gun now as running a 9mm upper sounds like its pretty hard on the receiver.
Link Posted: 4/12/2014 1:55:01 PM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 4/12/2014 4:59:38 PM EDT
[#9]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
And once milled for the RLL is it easy to swap between any uppers? or is there fitment issues.
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You will want to get multiple paddles, and use one paddle with each particular upper and bolt carrier - doing so will let you get your timing set for each upper correctly, and prevent metal fatique wear on the paddles.

My first link, I moved it around between a bunch of different guns with just one paddle, and the different uppers and bolt carriers bent and fatigued it so that it (the paddle) broke within the first few thousand rounds.
Page Armory » M-16
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