Decided id pop the question since I've not actually seen a thread on this. I've been thinking about buying bulk components to reload as I can reload 5.56 for under $0.20 a round that way. But I know that there's always that risk of putting together a bad round and then you could have a kaboom. Anyways,  just wanted to enquire :)

I reload .223 for my M16 or any AR15 platform I have.  The biggest difference I notice is the rate of fire is slightly slower with my reloads than factory rounds. I've had more blown/popped primers from factory 5.56 rounds than I have with my reloads.  Actually with my reloads I have only had bad primers where it went click and no bang.

Ive been reloading 5.56 for several years now for my AR15 as $0.30-0.40 is quite expensive and a savings of almost $0.20 a round starts to add up quick. I have not loaded anything for full auto yet but plan too, from what ive read all you need to do is crimp the case neck, which can be done with a crimping die. Other than that nothing special, just make sure your quality control is top notch. Luckily 5.56 requires a full case of powder so there is really no way to double load it like some rounds, especially pistol rounds. Im usually more concerned about not putting powder in a case which will cause a squib load and a bullet stuck in the barrel, the rifle will fail to cycle, the shooter will cycle the action manually chambering a new round and the next shot will blow up the rifle. This can be easily prevented by taking the time to inspect every round after a failure to fire. Obviously you wont have time for that in a defensive or competition situation but in those situations you should be using premium factory ammo, not reloads.

So maybe I should be looking into a Dias if I'm going to reload?  A squib in a 30k m16 doesn't sound fun.....

I reload 147gr 9mm (subsonic) for use in my M11/9 with VERS 9S

I load 9mm, 45ACP and 5.56 for my guns.  The only change I made was to gauge every round intended for an open bolt gun.  Those rounds tend to go off when forward progress stops, so I feel this is extra insurance against an OOB.  The sloppy chambers tend to make that moot except in extreme cases though.

I do not. The reason is that I simply do not have the time. I would rather buy quality factory ammo. If I ever get into 300BO, I may start reloading.

Not sure what you were looking at to begin with but RDIAS are running $20-25k these days, so not much cheaper and can be damaged as well. Also most AR15/M16 kabooms ive seen dont damage the lower, typically the mag gets kicked out and the BCG and Upper take most of the damage, but anything i can happen i suppose.

Just take the time to inspect the rifle after a failure to fire and when loading take the time to make sure you dont do something stupid like put pistol powder in the case instead of rifle powder or something stupid like that. Rifles dont just randomly explode, its very rare and is almost always preventable.

I've been reloading for my NFA weapons for about 10 years now.  For the subgun, 9mm reloads using plated projectiles has been a blessing (I'm still able to load for less than $.15/round vs. whatever).  



.223 has not been as effective because finding a load that works with your gun is difficult.  Also this caliber is much more capable to have over charging because of it small powder capaicty (and yes it happened to me - no physical damage, but it was costly).   It seems small caliber rifle rounds are more sensitive.   I have an AC556F/M16, and both really only like PMC bronze ammo (However the M16 also like M885's).  I have been trying for years to dup the loads, with little success.  Savings can be had vs to factory rounds.  But today, the cost of .223 is less than were it was 5 years ago



But the Beltfed is the crowning glory (A C&R Savage ANM2 aircraft gun).  I have reloaded over 20,000 rounds for that gun with almost no problems ( the last 1k of rounds got just a bit two long - why - I have no idea - I think the Bullet seating die finally moved ).  Its fixed now and shoots just fine.  I'm about to embark on loading another 9k with some new powder, but will only move to production after doing some testing.



Yes you can reliably load if your careful for any NFA gun.

Dillon powder check.

I have my hornady modified to work with it.

My M16 has not seen a factory round in years,

I reload for my M-16 and my HK's when I have the time. Never had any issues with thousands of rounds down range.

I reload 7.92x33

I use the RCBS Powder Checker, I didn't like the Dillon one.  The Dillon one does have an alarm, but the RCBS has where it matches up to a line, I tend to pay more attention to that, if I forgot to notice the check I pull and measure that load.  On top of pulling randomly and checking powder load too.

I think hand loading in bulk produces a better quality round over factory ammo.

I do not, and just buy good ammo.

However, that may need to change.  While someone was shooting my M60 in December, there was a squib.  Most would have just racked it back and pulled the trigger again, but I always check, and thank God I did.  Bullet sitting in the barrel.  A 308 kaboom would be BIG.  End of that barrel if it happened, that's for sure.  Tapped the bullet out, and kept on shooting.  Barrel still AOK.  I feel lucky.

I do for my 9mm: had my first squib a few weeks back, luckily no damage. For .223 I've reloaded, I do them single stage and other than the occasional inadequately resized few I've had good luck there. My M60 has only had surplus ammo from good sources.

No reloading for me.  There is no way I have the time to deal with it.

I barely have the free time to link up factory ammo and clean guns, much less make ammunition from scratch for them.  

I will admit, the thought has crossed my mind to pay our yard/handy-man guy to come and clean guns, clean links, and link ammo for me.  Just not sure how he would react if I told him, Hey sorry its raining today you are not going to work in the yard, but here is  case of 308 and a case of 556 and a homer bucket of mixed up dirty M27 & M13 links and spent brass......please separate, clean, and link.

I have considered buying a reloader just to make my own 9MM subs ever since Alabama Ammo went AWOL.  I have never found a subsonic load that I liked as much as their Special K they used to make.

I haven't with my M16.  I just don't see that I'd save much compared to the risk of me fucking up.  It's an expensive toy, which eats expensive food.  I wouldn't put my homemade fuel into a Ferrari to save a few bucks.

That being said, I'd consider it for my HK sear gun,  I think the likelihood of the sear being damaged in the lower, no matter what I do pretty much, is really low.  If the host gun blows up, it would suck, but it's only a clone and I'm not worried about the sear.  So that one might see some reloads.

I do
And my buddy and mentor Fred's
He taught me in the beginning
I trust him

I squib in a m16 would not hurt the lower, which is the MG. You are making a problem where there is none.

You are right, a squib would not hurt anything. But if a 2nd round gets fired then all bets are off

 

I reload 9mm, 40sw 223 and 308 for the FA.  If I didn't I could afford to feed them.  The main two are 9mm and 223,  The other two are for holidays and special occations,  Come to think about I have shot the MP5/40 in 3/4 years..

Jeff

I reload subsonic 9mm for my Subgun. Factory subsonic 9mm is still high and not very easy to get consistently.
Dillon 550b helps make short work of it.
When a single drum holds 71-73 rds of ammo, it makes sense to reload subsonic 9.

I am newer to reloading and new to full auto (Transferable DIAS) The way i look at it is my dias cost less than i costs to feed it.It would be tragic to destry a transferable.It's not like there making any more and it would suck to deny a future owner the opportunity. but if your going to shoot it the cost saved by reloading your own ammo, you could blew it up then just buy another one and it would still be cost effective.

1.Use a powder that has such a large volume the case can't be double charged. i'd rather a dirty gun than a blown up gun. the powders i use at max load fill the case or would require compressing it.
2 Use a powder-check die as already suggested, even with 1/2 charge in most cases the projectile will either leave the barrel or fail to cycle the action.
3 if you experience a malfunction don't be like the people on youtube racking the charging handle multiple times, when you clear a jam or malfunction ensure the projectile has not bee pulled from the case and is in the barrel, when in doube remove the upper and BCG and visual inspect the barrel for blockage.

You'll probably be ok if you fire with an obstructed barrel unless the BCG fly back so violently it damages the RR or dias. barrels can be replace and both the RR and dias most likely could be repaired.

a cartridge firing out of battery would probably be worse for a RR than a DIAS, I don't gauge every cartage i make... i run every-piece through a Casepro 100 every time. and even if iit doesn't gauge i like a generous throat....LOL seriously though my guns eat everything.

While other already recommended 2,3.. i find my #1 suggestion to be the most important. atleast from my limited experience.

reloading is just as safe as surplus / factory ammo

Aside from my .22 conversions, I shoot my hand-loaded ammo exclusively in my MGs.

I now  reload all my .9mm rounds for my S&W M76 (suppressed).   Several-thousand-plus rounds so far and no problems.    My loads are more reliable feeding than the Federal subsonic factory rounds.   In 5.56 I use green tips.....which hopefully we'll be able to still get.