That NATO Standard size allows the use of 1" OD aluminum tube with a 0.065" (1/16") wall for the body.  

Fins can be molded from fiberglass using 4 shaped wood mold blocks, well waxed for releasing agent.  A 1" hole is drilled at the intersection of the 4 blocks.  Rubber bands squeeze the 4 blocks snuggly together along with the resined fiberglass strips and around the body tube.  A hot lamp can speed the curing.  The fins' roots wrap completely around the tube and hold very securely.  Molding flash is sanded or ground off the fins.  These fins are rather stiff and rarely break on impact.

The aluminum tube is rough surface sanded or sandblasted at the tail end for better bonding of the 4 fins.  The 4 wood mold blocks are made of 2" by 1.5"x1.5" wood lumber clamped together and drilled with a 1" center hole.  The block edges and surfaces are sanded smooth with a small fin root radius/bevel and heavilly waxed all over.

We used ordinary KIWI "Natural" color shoe polish as the secret release agent.  Available at better grocery stores everywhere.

The nose end plugs were 7/8" deep drawn automotive freeze plugs pressed into the nose end about 1/2" of the 6" long tubes and riv-screwed in place with 6 each  1/8"x1/4" riv screws (aka "drive rivets").  

The nose shape is your choice.  I suggest a 1.5" to 2" diameter sponge rubber ball bonded to a hardwood giant size "golf TE".

VD in AZ