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Link Posted: 2/5/2024 8:41:30 AM EDT
[#1]
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Originally Posted By jrpett:


I was hoping that someone would be attempting to do this. I'd probably make a 10% solution with maybe several ounces of an aluminum safe cleaner (like Simple green Pro HD) per gallon. If it works, it will be a much cheaper alternative. Something on the order of $10 per gallon for the finished solution.
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I was just planning to dilute with water. I assumed that is how they get to 5-10% concentration.
Link Posted: 2/5/2024 8:47:09 AM EDT
[#2]
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Originally Posted By Gtscotty:
Reading more about this stuff, it sounds a little creepy, apparently it's great at crossing cell membranes and carrying compounds with it. Not a chemist, but I intend to use thick latex gloves (nitrile won't work) with this stuff after it touches anything with powder or heavy metal fouling.
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DMSO itself seems to be sold as some kind of health potion but with few approved uses.

That is a good thought about its ability to be absorbed through skin posing a risk when carrying dissolved heavy metals.
Link Posted: 2/5/2024 9:14:56 AM EDT
[#3]
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Originally Posted By Gtscotty:
Reading more about this stuff, it sounds a little creepy, apparently it's great at crossing cell membranes and carrying compounds with it. Not a chemist, but I intend to use thick latex gloves (nitrile won't work) with this stuff after it touches anything with powder or heavy metal fouling.
View Quote


Why won’t nitrile work?
Link Posted: 2/5/2024 2:13:48 PM EDT
[#4]
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Originally Posted By peachy:


I was just planning to dilute with water. I assumed that is how they get to 5-10% concentration.
View Quote

Unless your chemistry degree is very up to date, I would not go mixing chemicals. I think you're right about using water.
Link Posted: 2/5/2024 2:24:49 PM EDT
[#5]
Got the gallon and 16 ounce from Dack Outdoors…

Same as everyone else… washer fluid bottle on side. No leakage, luckily. Debating on cleaning the cans after I get back from NC.
Link Posted: 2/5/2024 2:45:23 PM EDT
[#6]
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Originally Posted By DvlDog:


Why won’t nitrile work?
View Quote


https://www.dartmouth.edu/ehs/chemical/nitrile_gloves_chemical_resistance_guide.pdf

The document above seems to suggest nitrile won’t work for DMSO.
Link Posted: 2/5/2024 8:15:58 PM EDT
[#7]
Has anybody tried this stuff on a heavily leaded pistol barrel?

I'm wondering if a little overnight soak would remove the lead?
Link Posted: 2/5/2024 9:50:45 PM EDT
[#8]
What would be a good option for gloves?

I have always just used these for cleaning guns and around the house. Never for any harsh jobs just basic cleaning.

https://a.co/d/dPfBuzp
Link Posted: 2/6/2024 12:10:30 AM EDT
[#9]
Thinking about getting some and then dunking a Bolt Carrier along with an unassembled bolt into it.
I have interesting carbon buildup on a pair of Bolts.
Link Posted: 2/6/2024 8:37:15 AM EDT
[#10]
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Originally Posted By P229SAS:
What would be a good option for gloves?

I have always just used these for cleaning guns and around the house. Never for any harsh jobs just basic cleaning.

https://a.co/d/dPfBuzp
View Quote


Page 11 of this doc recommends neoprene or butyl:

https://www.augusta.edu/services/ehs/chemsafe/PDF%20files/gloveselechart.pdf
Link Posted: 2/6/2024 9:59:59 AM EDT
[#11]
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Originally Posted By peachy:


https://www.dartmouth.edu/ehs/chemical/nitrile_gloves_chemical_resistance_guide.pdf

The document above seems to suggest nitrile won’t work for DMSO.
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What mil gloves apply?  I only scanned so forgive me but I could not see to what thickness in mils the chart is referring.  We have everything from 2 or 3 mil to 9 mil, vastly different.
Link Posted: 2/6/2024 10:11:12 AM EDT
[#12]
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Originally Posted By RWEIII:


What mil gloves apply?  I only scanned so forgive me but I could not see to what thickness in mils the chart is referring.  We have everything from 2 or 3 mil to 9 mil, vastly different.
View Quote


Just Googling around, it seems to permeate through nitrile quickly. I'm sure thickness helps, but still just doesn't seem to be an effective barrier from what I have seen. For example:

"The permeation of dimethyl sulfoxide through specimens from four commercially available gloves was measured. Breakthrough times ranged from 1–1/2 to 2 hours for natural rubber latex to over 8 hours for neoprene latex. The Buna-N (nitrile) material exhibited the highest permeation rate."

https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/15298668191420594
Link Posted: 2/6/2024 10:52:25 AM EDT
[#13]
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Originally Posted By VaFish:
Has anybody tried this stuff on a heavily leaded pistol barrel?

I'm wondering if a little overnight soak would remove the lead?
View Quote


The Lewis Lead Remover is unbeatable for quickly removing heavy leading from pistol (and shotgun) barrels
It uses bronze screen discs on a rubber plug.  Pulls out the lead, cannot harm the barrel.

Here's a short article on it.
https://gunsmagazine.com/gear/lewis-lead-remover/
Link Posted: 2/10/2024 11:19:28 AM EDT
[#14]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By peachy:


Just Googling around, it seems to permeate through nitrile quickly. I'm sure thickness helps, but still just doesn't seem to be an effective barrier from what I have seen. For example:

"The permeation of dimethyl sulfoxide through specimens from four commercially available gloves was measured. Breakthrough times ranged from 1–1/2 to 2 hours for natural rubber latex to over 8 hours for neoprene latex. The Buna-N (nitrile) material exhibited the highest permeation rate."

https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/15298668191420594
View Quote


Interesting.  Thanks for the info. As a practical matter is there really any risk with nitrile gloves being work for a couple minutes while fishing baffles out?  Those permeation rates looking like 1 hour plus.  
Link Posted: 2/10/2024 12:19:48 PM EDT
[#15]
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Originally Posted By YoungPatriot:


Interesting.  Thanks for the info. As a practical matter is there really any risk with nitrile gloves being work for a couple minutes while fishing baffles out?  Those permeation rates looking like 1 hour plus.  
View Quote

I use the dip. And nitrile gloves, which may not be the best.  I don't use my fingers to fish anything out of the solution. I happen to use a chopstick.  I consider gloves only secondary protection,  like from a splashed drop. I make every attempt to have no contact with the  used liquid. I would apply this approach to Breakthrough as well.
Link Posted: 2/10/2024 12:46:58 PM EDT
[#16]
Link Posted: 2/10/2024 1:01:18 PM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By YoungPatriot:


Interesting.  Thanks for the info. As a practical matter is there really any risk with nitrile gloves being work for a couple minutes while fishing baffles out?  Those permeation rates looking like 1 hour plus.  
View Quote



I won't make any suggestions about what is or is not adequate, but this excerpt has recommended precautions specific to DMSO and nitrile (double-nitrile gloves in this case):
https://www.usf.edu/research-innovation/comparative-medicine/documents/signs/sc020-chemical-hazard-dmso.pdf

Wikipedia says the following:
"Because DMSO easily penetrates the skin, substances dissolved in DMSO may be quickly absorbed. Glove selection is important when working with DMSO. Butyl rubber, fluoroelastomer, neoprene, or thick (15 mil / 0.4  mm) latex gloves are recommended.[42] Nitrile gloves, which are very commonly used in chemical laboratories, may protect from brief contact but have been found to degrade rapidly with exposure to DMSO.[43]"
Link Posted: 2/10/2024 1:03:59 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bmwmc] [#18]
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Originally Posted By sheltot:

According to this website, protection from lead acetate is double nitrile.
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Originally Posted By sheltot:
Originally Posted By bmwmc:
I use the dip. And nitrile gloves, which may not be the best.  I don't use my fingers to fish anything out of the solution. I happen to use a chopstick.  I consider gloves only secondary protection,  like from a splashed drop. I make every attempt to have no contact with the  used liquid. I would apply this approach to Breakthrough as well.

According to this website, protection from lead acetate is double nitrile.

Thanks.  That's quite interesting.  With some chemicals a glove thickness is specified, but not lead acetate. Double what thickness? I will continue retrieving parts with a chopstick, then holding under a running faucet before actually touching said part. I probably will now don two pairs of 5 mil nitrile gloves.

Lead acetate is the precipitate at the bottom of the jar, I think. Wonder if glove selection is affected by the carrier, paracetic acid in this case.
Link Posted: 2/10/2024 1:24:39 PM EDT
[#19]
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Originally Posted By Minshooter:


The Lewis Lead Remover is unbeatable for quickly removing heavy leading from pistol (and shotgun) barrels
It uses bronze screen discs on a rubber plug.  Pulls out the lead, cannot harm the barrel.

Here's a short article on it.
https://gunsmagazine.com/gear/lewis-lead-remover/
View Quote



I'm aware of the Lewis Lead remover, and I use a cheaper version of just tearing up part of a copper chore boy scrubber.   I was just wondering if the suppressor cleaner actually dissolved the lead, thereby making it a good tool for removing barrel lead, or if it is just a cleaner that loosens up the stuck on carbon and lead.

Next time I shoot a bunch of lead through a pistol, I'll soak a couple patches and run them down the bore to see what it does.
Link Posted: 2/10/2024 2:27:51 PM EDT
[Last Edit: YoungPatriot] [#20]
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Originally Posted By bmwmc:

Thanks.  That's quite interesting.  With some chemicals a glove thickness is specified, but not lead acetate. Double what thickness? I will continue retrieving parts with a chopstick, then holding under a running faucet before actually touching said part. I probably will now don two pairs of 5 mil nitrile gloves.

Lead acetate is the precipitate at the bottom of the jar, I think. Wonder if glove selection is affected by the carrier, paracetic acid in this case.
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Originally Posted By bmwmc:
Originally Posted By sheltot:
Originally Posted By bmwmc:
I use the dip. And nitrile gloves, which may not be the best.  I don't use my fingers to fish anything out of the solution. I happen to use a chopstick.  I consider gloves only secondary protection,  like from a splashed drop. I make every attempt to have no contact with the  used liquid. I would apply this approach to Breakthrough as well.

According to this website, protection from lead acetate is double nitrile.

Thanks.  That's quite interesting.  With some chemicals a glove thickness is specified, but not lead acetate. Double what thickness? I will continue retrieving parts with a chopstick, then holding under a running faucet before actually touching said part. I probably will now don two pairs of 5 mil nitrile gloves.

Lead acetate is the precipitate at the bottom of the jar, I think. Wonder if glove selection is affected by the carrier, paracetic acid in this case.




Sounds like wise practice.  I’m going to double glove and use chopsticks as well. Rinse parts well after.  I’m disposing in a jar filled with cat litter to absorb and then toss in trash.  I’m really hesitant to pour down the drain especially with septic and well.

I have this stuff a go with 22 baffles. Pretty amazing how well it works soaking for a couple days.  Works so well definitely has me worried about taking proper precautions.
Link Posted: 2/10/2024 4:05:37 PM EDT
[#21]
Just out of curiosity, does the Breakthrough Suppressor cleaner have a smell to it?
Link Posted: 2/10/2024 4:20:51 PM EDT
[#22]
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Originally Posted By peachy:
Just out of curiosity, does the Breakthrough Suppressor cleaner have a smell to it?
View Quote


It smells like victory.
Link Posted: 2/10/2024 5:10:14 PM EDT
[#23]
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Originally Posted By triburst1:


It smells like victory.
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Originally Posted By triburst1:
Originally Posted By peachy:
Just out of curiosity, does the Breakthrough Suppressor cleaner have a smell to it?


It smells like victory.


Serious answer- a slight one, and seems to get stronger the more contaminated it is. Smells like Slip2000 Carbon Killer, but less intense. Reasonably pleasant, and definitely not as strong as Hoppes or Kroil.
Link Posted: 2/10/2024 5:17:30 PM EDT
[#24]
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Originally Posted By airman100:


Serious answer- a slight one, and seems to get stronger the more contaminated it is. Smells like Slip2000 Carbon Killer, but less intense. Reasonably pleasant, and definitely not as strong as Hoppes or Kroil.
View Quote


I read one review saying it had a bit of a sewer water smell to it. I’m mainly curious because it might help confirm what it really is. If it had a sewery, swampy smell, that might be consistent with it being DMSO (the sulfur compounds).
Link Posted: 2/10/2024 5:34:36 PM EDT
[#25]
How long can we leave a sealed can in this stuff before we start risking damage to Cerakote?
Link Posted: 2/11/2024 9:42:44 AM EDT
[Last Edit: arjohnson] [#26]
First time cleaning my Octane, about 600-700 rnds through it. Let the baffles soak overnight in the same stuff that I already used twice so it was dirty.

Took them out, brushed them off and rinsed with warm water.

T
From left to right is order of baffles in can from blast baffle to last baffle.

First 3 baffles still have some carbon but very little, last 4 are spotless.












Link Posted: 2/11/2024 10:09:40 AM EDT
[#27]
Look like good stuff
Have SS baffles and Titanium
And after tomorrow, Aluminum

I never clean my cans so I'll have to try this
Thanks everyone
Link Posted: 2/11/2024 11:17:51 AM EDT
[#28]
I ran an experiment last night using 10:1 tap water to DMSO (~9% solution). It definitely reacted, but not as dramatically as I would have hoped. I have a few theories about why that may be and plan to try some more experiments, but this video makes me think that DMSO probably is the magic ingredient:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=G-nESS-Z8wM

Pretty amazing what ~100% DMSO does to the piston sludge in 30 minutes or so.
Link Posted: 2/12/2024 9:03:27 AM EDT
[Last Edit: GiggleSmith] [#29]

Any idea when they'll restock


Attachment Attached File



There's a Fun Show coming near me is about 3 weeks.  The Interesting thing about them is that The Shows usually sell goodies that your Local neighborhood FFL won't keep in stock.  Sometimes cleaning goodies nobody has heard of.  So If You Know Exactly What You Want and don't mind hearing a Certain Buzzer go off every 87 seconds or thereabouts, you Just Might Find something interesting.
Link Posted: 2/12/2024 3:24:29 PM EDT
[#30]
I picked some up at PSA.  Here's my experiences with it.  
I have a GEMTECH MULTIMOUNT and per the old website states should come in at 6.5oz, It's a very negated suppressor. Weighing in at 8.1oz before cleaning.  It was so bad that the 1/2x 28 L.I.D. The adapter would not fit and the baffles would not budge. There was a ring of lead and carbon inside the blast chamber that must have been 3 millimeters thick. Without being able to install the 1/2x28 adapter, I would not be able to use the baffle removal tool.  
So I 3D Printed a plug for my 18x1 Adapter, poured the solution in the suppresser, and let it do its work

Day1:
After 4 hours the last Baffle (7) came out without any effort, using a pick. it was supper clean after a little brushing.  

Day 2:
Buffel 6 came out the next day but noticed a white haze.  Has to use a nylon brush on it, but otherwise no carbo or lead.
Switch out the solution in case it was spent.  I do think the solution does get weaker.

That night baffles 5 and 4 came out, and required some effort. Switch out the solution one more time and let it sit overnight again.

Day 3:
The solution was super dirty, but the remaining baffles were not budging.  Emptied the suppressor and used an AR-15 BCG Carbon Removal Tool to work on the ring of lead in the chamber. Took an hour but got the 1/2 x 28 Adapter in and was able to use the baffle removal tool.
It did not take very much effort to get the remaining baffles out with the tool.
Put the 4 baffles in the used solution as they were still dirty.  I also put some solutions back in the can to keep working on the ring of death.

Day 4:
Took everything out and washed them with hot water and dried them. Used CLP on the steel part of the can.

The white haze showed up on any aluminum baffles that had more than 12 hours in the solution. The blast baffle is titanium and does not have a haze to it.

here are the results.  I may put the first 4 baffles back in some new solution.
Attachment Attached File

Attachment Attached File



Link Posted: 2/17/2024 9:35:12 PM EDT
[#31]
I just got a bottle in from Amazon.
For my Next Trick I find a jar/bottle to put the solution in

Link Posted: 2/18/2024 10:20:31 AM EDT
[#32]
We've determined that the used solution is readily absorbed through the skin, and believe it's toxic. It is aluminum safe. What advantages does Breakthrough have over the dip when talking about SS or TI? The dip is super cheap and the two components can be bought at the grocery store.  Honest question.
Link Posted: 2/18/2024 11:18:13 AM EDT
[#33]
This stuff is great. I soaked a Revolution 9 that hasn't been cleaned in years with a stuck endcap (grenaded of a tri-lug).

I soaked for a week, rinsed with water and the front baffle looked new whilie the blast baffle was still caked.

Soaked for another week and took it outand rinsed well. The blast baffle had a couple of spots of carbon but otherwise shiny as new.
No discoloration or damge to the cerakote.

I use proper PPE when handling this stuff.
Link Posted: 2/18/2024 11:40:28 AM EDT
[#34]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bmwmc:
We've determined that the used solution is readily absorbed through the skin, and believe it's toxic. It is aluminum safe. What advantages does Breakthrough have over the dip when talking about SS or TI? The dip is super cheap and the two components can be bought at the grocery store.  Honest question.
View Quote


Any solution with dissolved lead one should avoid skin contact.  The main benefit of this cleaner is for use on aluminum parts.  I suppose once one has this it’s just easy to use it as a one stop solution. Not economical but handy.
Link Posted: 2/19/2024 9:03:38 AM EDT
[#35]
I got some of this crap on my hands when cleaning my 22 cans.  I didn’t realize there was a tear in my gloves.  Didn’t submerge my hands in it by any means but it definitely got on my hand when cleaning up the baffles.

How concerned should I be?
Link Posted: 2/19/2024 2:10:53 PM EDT
[#36]
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Originally Posted By mikego_34:
I got some of this crap on my hands when cleaning my 22 cans.  I didn’t realize there was a tear in my gloves.  Didn’t submerge my hands in it by any means but it definitely got on my hand when cleaning up the baffles.

How concerned should I be?
View Quote


Link Posted: 2/19/2024 3:09:35 PM EDT
[#37]
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Originally Posted By mikego_34:
I got some of this crap on my hands when cleaning my 22 cans.  I didn’t realize there was a tear in my gloves.  Didn’t submerge my hands in it by any means but it definitely got on my hand when cleaning up the baffles.

How concerned should I be?
View Quote

Once?  Don’t worry about it, but take greater care in the future.
Link Posted: 2/19/2024 3:37:56 PM EDT
[#38]
I got the small spray bottle, did my mod9sk, oculus, and cgs hydra SS. did a very good job with 24 hour soaks with minimal agitation.

Dealer cost on this stuff is pretty good and comes much better packaged than amazon would. RSR for anyone behind the counter.
Link Posted: 2/19/2024 10:02:01 PM EDT
[#39]
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Originally Posted By KalmanPhilter:


Any solution with dissolved lead one should avoid skin contact.  The main benefit of this cleaner is for use on aluminum parts.  I suppose once one has this it’s just easy to use it as a one stop solution. Not economical but handy.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Originally Posted By KalmanPhilter:
Originally Posted By bmwmc:
We've determined that the used solution is readily absorbed through the skin, and believe it's toxic. It is aluminum safe. What advantages does Breakthrough have over the dip when talking about SS or TI? The dip is super cheap and the two components can be bought at the grocery store.  Honest question.


Any solution with dissolved lead one should avoid skin contact.  The main benefit of this cleaner is for use on aluminum parts.  I suppose once one has this it’s just easy to use it as a one stop solution. Not economical but handy.

Your point is 100% valid.

It's just that I'm amazed sometimes at people's reactions to the dip. Like it's going to creep out of the jar and poison the neighbors cat. But everything else they use to clean cans is safe enough to drink. I might still try this new stuff on my Mustang. Probably continue using the dip though where possible.
Link Posted: 2/20/2024 11:10:10 AM EDT
[#40]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bmwmc:

I might still try this new stuff on my Mustang.
View Quote


It did a good job on my mustang, only had a few hundred rounds thru it but it cleaned it up well.
Link Posted: 2/20/2024 11:47:12 AM EDT
[#41]
I messed with DMSO some more, and even though the MSDS seems to suggest the Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner is just a 5-10% solution of DMSO, I'm fairly confident there is more to it than that. Tried both a ~9% solution and 90%+ DMSO, and neither really did very much. DMSO may very well be the solvent that carries the active ingredient though.
Link Posted: 2/20/2024 1:50:55 PM EDT
[#42]
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Originally Posted By peachy:
I messed with DMSO some more, and even though the MSDS seems to suggest the Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner is just a 5-10% solution of DMSO, I'm fairly confident there is more to it than that. Tried both a ~9% solution and 90%+ DMSO, and neither really did very much. DMSO may very well be the solvent that carries the active ingredient though.
View Quote


Decades ago I used to use a 50% DMSO/50% water mix in a pot of boiling water on a hot plate to clean up small engine parts. The water boils off but not the DMSO so you just replace the water as necessary. I do remember adding some Fantastic cleaner (I'd probably use aluminum safe Simple green now). I guess the key was the heat and the agitation of boiling. I should really get some DMSO and try it in my heated ultrasonic cleaner. I bet the results would be the same.
Link Posted: 2/20/2024 2:31:14 PM EDT
[#43]
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Originally Posted By jrpett:


Decades ago I used to use a 50% DMSO/50% water mix in a pot of boiling water on a hot plate to clean up small engine parts. The water boils off but not the DMSO so you just replace the water as necessary. I do remember adding some Fantastic cleaner (I'd probably use aluminum safe Simple green now). I guess the key was the heat and the agitation of boiling. I should really get some DMSO and try it in my heated ultrasonic cleaner. I bet the results would be the same.
View Quote


There could be something to that. DMSO freezes around the mid-60s I believe, and that is pretty close to the temperatures I have been trying it under, which might reduce the rate of any reactions that might otherwise take place. The video I posted earlier of a guy cleaning a piston with DMSO said the ambient temperature was pretty close to 100F. I still have some left but don't have a great way to warm it, nor do I have an ultrasonic cleaner. Maybe it is still worth some experimentation since it is about 1/10 the price of the Breakthrough Suppressor cleaner at the same concentration of DMSO.
Link Posted: 2/28/2024 12:22:21 PM EDT
[#44]
I was just linked to this thread, and I have a couple questions.

First, why is this sold as a spray bottle if everyone is relying on full immersion soaking? Would "normal" cleaning be done with a spray and scrub?

Second, is it a dumb idea to just use the suppressor tube itself as the container for soaking? I think putting a short bolt in the threads, taking off the front cap, and filling the can would let you get the job done with a few oz instead of a few cups. Obviously, that's less solution to carry the fouling, but it still seems like it would work.
Link Posted: 2/28/2024 2:45:49 PM EDT
[#45]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By GenYRevolverGuy:
I was just linked to this thread, and I have a couple questions.

First, why is this sold as a spray bottle if everyone is relying on full immersion soaking? Would "normal" cleaning be done with a spray and scrub?

Second, is it a dumb idea to just use the suppressor tube itself as the container for soaking? I think putting a short bolt in the threads, taking off the front cap, and filling the can would let you get the job done with a few oz instead of a few cups. Obviously, that's less solution to carry the fouling, but it still seems like it would work.
View Quote


That is my plan except I intend to use a plug for the muzzle end and have it standing mount facing up inside a container.  I ordered some supposedly pretty tough plugs of various sizes to try it with.  That said, I haven't done one yet so can't yet speak to the effectiveness of such an approach.
Link Posted: 3/2/2024 7:59:16 AM EDT
[#46]
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Originally Posted By fulautotank:
I soaked my sealed AAC Aviator in the cleaner for 3 days. Just dropped the whole can in a mason jar and would agitate once or twice a day. The finish is fine except the end cap looks like it lost a little bit of finish. I forgot to weigh the can before the cleaning.
It looks like it did a really good job. it is much cleaner and I could see the port/ hole on edge of the blast baffle that was filled with crud before. It also sounded better.
I weighed my sealed AAC Pilot today before I dropped it in the dip. I will check weight after cleaning.
View Quote


@fulautotank

Did you get a before/after weight on your pilot?

Mine has up near 5,000 rounds through it. I weighed mine and it was 5.4 oz near 2 oz of lead and carbo.. Looks like molten lead was poured down it. Still pretty quiet, but I read this whole thread in hoped of good luck with a sealed can.
Link Posted: 3/2/2024 11:43:25 AM EDT
[#47]
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Originally Posted By Wagonteeth:


@fulautotank

Did you get a before/after weight on your pilot?

Mine has up near 5,000 rounds through it. I weighed mine and it was 5.4 oz near 2 oz of lead and carbo.. Looks like molten lead was poured down it. Still pretty quiet, but I read this whole thread in hoped of good luck with a sealed can.
View Quote
I only left in in for about 2.5 days and it lost a little bit of weight. I used the same solution that I used with the aviator. Gonna try some fresh solution and then weigh again.

Link Posted: 3/2/2024 11:52:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Wagonteeth] [#48]
That's about 1/2 ounce, so pretty good for dirty solution.

I order a 32oz bottle and have a few cans to clean. All are older sealed cans so we'll see. I'll post weights for each, but the pilot is the most obese.

Editing to add: first impressions is this stuff is pretty great. I am at 24 hours amd there is quite a lot of sludge, lead and carbon in the bottom of.my jelly jar. The lead near the exit end is like a gray paste and comes out pretty easy. At the threaded end, it's more stubborn but can be picked a bit. If I get a 25% reduction in weight, I'm very happy. Im gonna give it another 24 hours.

I'd say this can is about a worst case scenario so it's already showing promise. My centerline cans will certainly clean easier.
Link Posted: 3/5/2024 5:57:13 PM EDT
[#49]
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Originally Posted By awd_xtc:
$75 shipped for a gallon from battlehawkarmory.com if this stuff works that good, im buying 2
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They have the 16oz spray bottle and 1 gallon showing in stock at their store, but to bad they are only open M-F 10am-5pm, I'd like to give this a try but I'd rather not burn PTO to go get some.
Link Posted: 3/6/2024 7:16:31 AM EDT
[#50]
I've had a couple aluminum baffles soaking for weeks and the solution smells like ass. It is a pretty rancid almost gag inducing sort of stink.

On the plus side it worked great and the baffles are perfectly clean.
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