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Used it for my 22 warlock and it worked great. Only soaked for 2 hrs and took most of the carbon and lead out. Next time I’ll soak it longer. Definitely works and I’ll get a gallon next time I need some.
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For anyone that has used both a soda blaster and this breakthrough cleaner, which one do you prefer? I'm wanting to get caked on lead off aluminum baffles.
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My OG Turbo just went for a swim in this stuff. Factory weight seems to be 13oz, it currently weighs...not 13oz. I don't keep exact round count but would guess it's closer to 20k than 10k rounds. The cleaner is working immediately judging by color. I'll see how it looks tomorrow.
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Post the MSDS / SDS report on it.
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Unelected bureaucrats should be used to fill the potholes on America's highways and byways.
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Saw a video from SHOT today where the rep mentioned it could damage cerakote
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Doesn't seem to work any better than CLR.
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Originally Posted By peachy: But it is supposedly safe on materials that CLR will eat. View Quote This. Did my first CLR soak last night on some titanium baffles. Worked great. But I still bought a gallon of the breakthrough stuff because it’s safe to use on aluminum. Not sure what CLR would do to anodized aluminum baffles but I don’t want to test it. |
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Originally Posted By Exetik: This. Did my first CLR soak last night on some titanium baffles. Worked great. But I still bought a gallon of the breakthrough stuff because it’s safe to use on aluminum. Not sure what CLR would do to anodized aluminum baffles but I don’t want to test it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Exetik: Originally Posted By peachy: But it is supposedly safe on materials that CLR will eat. This. Did my first CLR soak last night on some titanium baffles. Worked great. But I still bought a gallon of the breakthrough stuff because it’s safe to use on aluminum. Not sure what CLR would do to anodized aluminum baffles but I don’t want to test it. CLR is safe for titanium and stainless steel? |
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Just a note, the stuff does an incredible job cleaning the inside of a bolt carrier and on the bolt itself.. Just leave it in overnight, no scraping required.
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Originally Posted By Grendelsbane: CLR is safe for titanium and stainless steel? View Quote I have read yes and I have read no. I know Thunder Beast at one point (and may still) recommends the use of CLR for cleaning/flushing some of their titanium cans. I also read that Dead Air said CLR could be used on the stainless baffles in the Mask, but not sure if that is still relevant today or not. In my case I let the titanium baffles from one of my rimfire suppressors soak in a 50/50 water and CLR mixture for about 4-5 hours and they came out almost 100% clean. Much better than using a tumbler and pins. I also found a post where a guy soaked a block of aluminum in CLR overnight and it didn't do anything to it, but it wasn't a scientific test and I personally will not be using CLR with aluminum baffles. I did order a gallon of the Breakthrough suppressor cleaner so I'll be using that going forward but am still impressed how well the CLR worked and would use it again if I had to. Of course, do your own research and determine how much you want to risk personally. Or just buy some Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner and don't worry about it. |
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Originally Posted By Grendelsbane: CLR is safe for titanium and stainless steel? View Quote Idk about titanium as I don’t have any titanium cans, but I use it all the time on my SS rimfire baffles and CLR works great. Leave them in for about an hour and they come out clean. If there’s residual remaining on any baffles, I’ll put them in for another 30 minutes or so and they wipe clean with a rinse and wipe with paper towel. Been doing this for over a year and haven’t seen any ill effects. |
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I think I’ve read most of the posts, but I can’t recall if anyone has posted if this stuff is safe for o-rings?
Thinking BCG and 9mm piston. |
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How are you guys drying centerfire cans after draining them? I'm going to flush mine with hot water but I don't want to risk any rust.
Suppose I could put some rounds thru it for added motivation |
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Originally Posted By 135Patriots: How are you guys drying centerfire cans after draining them? I'm going to flush mine with hot water but I don't want to risk any rust. Suppose I could put some rounds thru it for added motivation View Quote What is your can made of that would rust? Aren't most cans stainless steel, titanium, or aluminum add in some Inconell or Stellite baffles which are both corrosion resistant.? |
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Originally Posted By VaFish: What is your can made of that would rust? Aren't most cans stainless steel, titanium, or aluminum add in some Inconell or Stellite baffles which are both corrosion resistant.? View Quote |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: Do you want a zombie apocalypse? Because this is how you get a zombie apocalypse. Make sure to stock up some of this stuff: https://hornadyarmory.com/product/hornady-zombie-max-223-remington-ammo-55-grain-z-max/ View Quote @dmk0210 heads up that's one of those scam crypto sites. I don't think anyone will bite but you never know. I figured that was the case because I don't think they've made that ammo in years maybe close to a decade. |
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BikerNut:
Normal people like motorcycles. Real people like motorcycles. People who don't like motorcycles are just... weird. |
Meh. Not impressed so far. Octane 45HD. It was pretty dirty as I had to knock the baffles out with a dowel and rubber mallet. Probably 1500 rounds of 9mm and 45ACP since last cleaning. Let the baffles and piston soak for 24 hours and not much of a difference when I checked them this am. Now into the ultrasonic cleanser to see if that helps. Usually a few trips thru with Slip2000 does a good job. We will see how this stands up to that.
Edit to add: Ran it thru 2x 30 min cycles. Liquid got real dirty and basically stopped working. I scraped the carbon with a scraper until most was removed then switched over to Slip2000 for 2 more cycles to finish up. This stuff is expensive and wasn't any easier or better than what I have been using at 3 times the cost. Juice isn't worth the squeeze IMO. |
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First comes smiles, then lies. Last is gunfire.-Roland Deschain, of Gilead
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Originally Posted By RolandDeschain: Meh. Not impressed so far. Octane 45HD. It was pretty dirty as I had to knock the baffles out with a dowel and rubber mallet. Probably 1500 rounds of 9mm and 45ACP since last cleaning. Let the baffles and piston soak for 24 hours and not much of a difference when I checked them this am. Now into the ultrasonic cleanser to see if that helps. Usually a few trips thru with Slip2000 does a good job. We will see how this stands up to that. Edit to add: Ran it thru 2x 30 min cycles. Liquid got real dirty and basically stopped working. I scraped the carbon with a scraper until most was removed then switched over to Slip2000 for 2 more cycles to finish up. This stuff is expensive and wasn't any easier or better than what I have been using at 3 times the cost. Juice isn't worth the squeeze IMO. View Quote What have you been using typically? |
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Originally Posted By mk4dubbin: For anyone that has used both a soda blaster and this breakthrough cleaner, which one do you prefer? I'm wanting to get caked on lead off aluminum baffles. View Quote I've got an old Bowers CAC9 I use on a MP5 shooting mainly cast & coated projectiles, lots of full auto blasting. I don't really keep a tally on rds shot since I last cleaned it but if had to guess I'd say at least 2K so it wasn't terribly dirty. I've had the baffles soaking for two weeks and simply wiping each baffle with a cotton patch and then soaking them again. Jar holds about 8 oz and I have not changed the solution. At this point two baffles still have a minimal amount of crud on them and had I changed the solution they would probably be like new already. I am pleased with the results, yes it is slow compared to soda blasting but not nearly as messy! I'm not ready to toss my soda blasting gear yet but it will definitely take a back seat to the Breakthrough cleaner. |
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I found some at Scheel's and soaked my Lunar 9 baffles (aluminum) overnight. Turned out great with almost no brushing/scrubbing. They were pretty caked up from a mix of centerfire and rimfire shooting. Will buy again
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First comes smiles, then lies. Last is gunfire.-Roland Deschain, of Gilead
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Originally Posted By arjohnson: Just soaked these aluminum baffles from my 7 year old Huntertown 9mm can, they were pretty dirty and never could get them no where near this clean. Soaked them, took a nylon brush and scrubbed them off, rinsed with warm water and this is how they turned out. Not to bad. https://i.postimg.cc/JhtQSwjZ/F3-D6224-F-0-D08-41-A0-A9-C1-5-D26-EC3-ED295.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/qB2xPx6b/A95-EC7-B4-D281-430-D-8-D33-62-E13-EFE31-D6.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/m2wNDZw7/7171-CA7-E-B440-4175-A756-2-FFA80-B3-F74-B.jpg View Quote I have never seen spacers like that on a can with K baffles, they could almost double the amount of baffles in there. Or make the can a lot shorter. Normally K's are stacked right on top of each other. @arjohnson |
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2021 just said to 2020, hold my beer and watch this. Poster formally known as Iam4
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Originally Posted By StaccatoC2: I have never seen spacers like that on a can with K baffles, they could almost double the amount of baffles in there. Or make the can a lot shorter. Normally K's are stacked right on top of each other. @arjohnson View Quote It’s a Huntertown arms can, probably why they’re out of business. |
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My wet tumbler with stainless media from HF works just fine, and I don't need to keep buying any special product.
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so it’s just dimethyl sulfoxide diluted down to 10%?
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And apparently it's totally not bueno to dump it into the ground or down the drain, much like the dip.
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Originally Posted By emccracken: And apparently it's totally not bueno to dump it into the ground or down the drain, much like the dip. View Quote Anyways after 3 days of sitting with zero manual agitation, my YHM Turbo lost about half an ounce of weight. I'm sure there's a lot in there that could be scraped out if you could disassemble the can, but that's not an option obviously. This feels like a home run for pistol and rimfire cans. I could always try ultrasonic but I've never gotten a straight answer as to whether it's OK to just toss the whole can in there. |
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FedEx has my package listed "Unable to Deliver". My guess is someone smashed the package and it spilled everywhere. I'll give it a few more days and contact Lanbo.
Thursday, 1/25/24 2:02 PM Shipment exception Unable to deliver MIDDLETOWN, CT 2:04 PM Delay Package delayed MIDDLETOWN, CT |
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Originally Posted By Toker_: FedEx has my package listed "Unable to Deliver". My guess is someone smashed the package and it spilled everywhere. I'll give it a few more days and contact Lanbo. Thursday, 1/25/24 2:02 PM Shipment exception Unable to deliver MIDDLETOWN, CT 2:04 PM Delay Package delayed MIDDLETOWN, CT View Quote Several people (including me) have noted that there's no safety seal under the gallon cap. And the gallon bottle was a bit less robust than the windshield washer fluid I buy (but better than a milk gallon)... |
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It takes away some of the visual impact when you can't see it.
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Originally Posted By Toker_: FedEx has my package listed "Unable to Deliver". My guess is someone smashed the package and it spilled everywhere. I'll give it a few more days and contact Lanbo. Thursday, 1/25/24 2:02 PM Shipment exception Unable to deliver MIDDLETOWN, CT 2:04 PM Delay Package delayed MIDDLETOWN, CT View Quote Sometimes that means "We didnt feel like driving to your house." So there's still hope. |
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Call sign: Smack
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Originally Posted By eric496: Sometimes that means "We didnt feel like driving to your house." So there's still hope. View Quote Normally, I'd agree with you, but that location is a distribution center that's still 20 miles from my local FedEx that does the deliveries. Still no update today, so I'll probably have to give them a call and then Lanbo. First world problems. |
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I got my gallon jug from Lanbos. The outer box had a big sticker saying this end up⬆️. Open it up and the inner box from the manufacturer was on its side with this end up going sideways ➡️. Of course Fedex doesn't give a fuck and it was probably every which way but up during transit. Luckily mine didn't leak out, but mine was only shipped in state.
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I carry a gun because a cop is too heavy.
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Originally Posted By Clicker58: I've got an old Bowers CAC9 I use on a MP5 shooting mainly cast & coated projectiles, lots of full auto blasting. I don't really keep a tally on rds shot since I last cleaned it but if had to guess I'd say at least 2K so it wasn't terribly dirty. I've had the baffles soaking for two weeks and simply wiping each baffle with a cotton patch and then soaking them again. Jar holds about 8 oz and I have not changed the solution. At this point two baffles still have a minimal amount of crud on them and had I changed the solution they would probably be like new already. I am pleased with the results, yes it is slow compared to soda blasting but not nearly as messy! I'm not ready to toss my soda blasting gear yet but it will definitely take a back seat to the Breakthrough cleaner. View Quote @Clicker58 How did you disassemble your CAC9? I have a PAS9 with the upgraded .375 stack. |
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Originally Posted By captexas: I got my gallon jug from Lanbos. The outer box had a big sticker saying this end up⬆️. Open it up and the inner box from the manufacturer was on its side with this end up going sideways ➡️. Of course Fedex doesn't give a fuck and it was probably every which way but up during transit. Luckily mine didn't leak out, but mine was only shipped in state. View Quote Called FedEx and it looks like the contents of the package were empty. Meaning that all that cleaner is somewhere in the world where it's not supposed to be... Sent Lanbo's and email to see what can be done. |
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Originally Posted By TargetTime: @Clicker58 How did you disassemble your CAC9? I have a PAS9 with the upgraded .375 stack. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By TargetTime: Originally Posted By Clicker58: I've got an old Bowers CAC9 I use on a MP5 shooting mainly cast & coated projectiles, lots of full auto blasting. I don't really keep a tally on rds shot since I last cleaned it but if had to guess I'd say at least 2K so it wasn't terribly dirty. I've had the baffles soaking for two weeks and simply wiping each baffle with a cotton patch and then soaking them again. Jar holds about 8 oz and I have not changed the solution. At this point two baffles still have a minimal amount of crud on them and had I changed the solution they would probably be like new already. I am pleased with the results, yes it is slow compared to soda blasting but not nearly as messy! I'm not ready to toss my soda blasting gear yet but it will definitely take a back seat to the Breakthrough cleaner. @Clicker58 How did you disassemble your CAC9? I have a PAS9 with the upgraded .375 stack. I use an adjustable pin face spanner wrench similar to this one to remove the end cap, make sure the pins will fit into the holes of the cap. Then tap out the baffles using a wooden dowel. Spanner |
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Originally Posted By StaccatoC2: I have never seen spacers like that on a can with K baffles, they could almost double the amount of baffles in there. Or make the can a lot shorter. Normally K's are stacked right on top of each other. @arjohnson View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By StaccatoC2: Originally Posted By arjohnson: Just soaked these aluminum baffles from my 7 year old Huntertown 9mm can, they were pretty dirty and never could get them no where near this clean. Soaked them, took a nylon brush and scrubbed them off, rinsed with warm water and this is how they turned out. Not to bad. https://i.postimg.cc/JhtQSwjZ/F3-D6224-F-0-D08-41-A0-A9-C1-5-D26-EC3-ED295.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/qB2xPx6b/A95-EC7-B4-D281-430-D-8-D33-62-E13-EFE31-D6.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/m2wNDZw7/7171-CA7-E-B440-4175-A756-2-FFA80-B3-F74-B.jpg I have never seen spacers like that on a can with K baffles, they could almost double the amount of baffles in there. Or make the can a lot shorter. Normally K's are stacked right on top of each other. @arjohnson The k baffles nest into the prior baffles spacer like an AAC Halcyon. Takes up some volume but keeps baffles from bonding to tube with carbon. |
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I soaked my sealed AAC Aviator in the cleaner for 3 days. Just dropped the whole can in a mason jar and would agitate once or twice a day. The finish is fine except the end cap looks like it lost a little bit of finish. I forgot to weigh the can before the cleaning.
It looks like it did a really good job. it is much cleaner and I could see the port/ hole on edge of the blast baffle that was filled with crud before. It also sounded better. I weighed my sealed AAC Pilot today before I dropped it in the dip. I will check weight after cleaning. |
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An armed society is a polite society.
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I let the anodized aluminum baffles from my Surefire Ryder 22-A suppressor soak overnight and they came out like new. I don't have a lot of rounds through this can but enough to make it pretty dirty. There was a lot of stuff that was dislodged from first/blast baffle that I did not even know was there. This stuff really works and makes cleaning aluminum a breeze.
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Originally Posted By Toker_: Called FedEx and it looks like the contents of the package were empty. Meaning that all that cleaner is somewhere in the world where it's not supposed to be... Sent Lanbo's and email to see what can be done. View Quote I hope you will post Lanbo's reply. Not discounting the shipper's packing, it seems that Breakthrough is using an inadequate container. |
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If you look early on this thread the same thing happened to me. Received an empty bottle and a soggy box. Had to return the empty bottle to get a replacement.
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I carry a gun because a cop is too heavy.
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Originally Posted By Clicker58: I use an adjustable pin face spanner wrench similar to this one to remove the end cap, make sure the pins will fit into the holes of the cap. Then tap out the baffles using a wooden dowel. Spanner View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Clicker58: Originally Posted By TargetTime: Originally Posted By Clicker58: I've got an old Bowers CAC9 I use on a MP5 shooting mainly cast & coated projectiles, lots of full auto blasting. I don't really keep a tally on rds shot since I last cleaned it but if had to guess I'd say at least 2K so it wasn't terribly dirty. I've had the baffles soaking for two weeks and simply wiping each baffle with a cotton patch and then soaking them again. Jar holds about 8 oz and I have not changed the solution. At this point two baffles still have a minimal amount of crud on them and had I changed the solution they would probably be like new already. I am pleased with the results, yes it is slow compared to soda blasting but not nearly as messy! I'm not ready to toss my soda blasting gear yet but it will definitely take a back seat to the Breakthrough cleaner. @Clicker58 How did you disassemble your CAC9? I have a PAS9 with the upgraded .375 stack. I use an adjustable pin face spanner wrench similar to this one to remove the end cap, make sure the pins will fit into the holes of the cap. Then tap out the baffles using a wooden dowel. Spanner Thanks for the information. |
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So has anyone tried generic dimethyl sulfoxide yet? I ordered some from Amazon today to try out.
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Originally Posted By peachy: So has anyone tried generic dimethyl sulfoxide yet? I ordered some from Amazon today to try out. View Quote I was hoping that someone would be attempting to do this. I'd probably make a 10% solution with maybe several ounces of an aluminum safe cleaner (like Simple green Pro HD) per gallon. If it works, it will be a much cheaper alternative. Something on the order of $10 per gallon for the finished solution. |
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Reading more about this stuff, it sounds a little creepy, apparently it's great at crossing cell membranes and carrying compounds with it. Not a chemist, but I intend to use thick latex gloves (nitrile won't work) with this stuff after it touches anything with powder or heavy metal fouling.
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