School me on ultrasonic cleaning of the can. - Page 1

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - School me on ultrasonic cleaning of the can.

Posted: 4/22/2017 5:45:55 PM EDT

Ok, after this last range session and having to clean 4 cans I think I'm ready to explore the ultrasonic route. So here is what I gather. Seems like the one from Harbor Freight is an economical way to get started. However, I know nothing else about the process.

- What solution mix do I use or do you recommend?
- Is there a standard time to let it run or is it trial by fire?
- Is this method only recommended for the stainless steel parts and not aluminum?
- What am I not asking?

Any tips and tricks you can add to your methods would help. Plan is to go pick one up tomorrow so any help would be appreciated.

Posted: 4/22/2017 6:02:08 PM EDT

[#1]

Good read on ultrasonic cleaners/cleaning: http://www.smallarmsreview.com/display.article.cfm?idarticles=2205

I've put my red anodized Surefire Ryder 22A baffles in an ultrasonic cleaner for about a an hour or so and there was no noticeable issues with surface finish. I have an email from Surefire that suggested using MPro7 in an ultrasonic cleaner for the SF Ryder 22A's baffles...so if there are any issues...I have that email...but so far, no issues.

Posted: 4/22/2017 6:07:38 PM EDT

[#2]

I have had the large Hornady ultrasonic for a few weeks now. I use Hornady's cleaning solution (non-brass type).

Aluminum baffles are no problem. I wipe them down, run them through a couple of 30 min cycles, dry them, and then run them in my tumbler with SS pins for a while to polish them. They look like new when they come out.

Stainless steel baffles get wiped down and then I think they ran for four 30 min cycles. They were good to go when done.

I previously coated both SS and aluminum baffles with Birchwood Casey choke tube lube. The coating kept a lot of stuff from sticking. The last go round I let the aluminum baffles sit in silicone oil overnight and that worked well, too.

The anodized aluminum tubes cleaned well, also. I still coat them with choke tube lube.

Posted: 4/22/2017 6:34:08 PM EDT

[#3]

My Hornady US works well, I use their gun parts solution.

The heat feature makes quicker work of it. They come out pretty hot to the touch.

My FA SS tumbler does it much better and faster.

Toss in my spectre 2 and octane 45 baffles and let it run 1-2 hours.

Come out looking new.

Posted: 4/22/2017 6:48:29 PM EDT

[#4]

Since I don't know anything about this, do use Horandy's over and over again or is it one time use?

Posted: 4/22/2017 7:01:34 PM EDT

[#5]

Quote History

Quoted:
Since I don't know anything about this, do use Horandy's over and over again or is it one time use?

View Quote

The solution?

I will use the same mix a few times for brass or gun parts before dumping it.

Just depends how dirty it is.

1 32oz bottle will last you a long time. You only need like a cap full per 2 liters or so.

If it's really dirty I'll add a cap and a half.

Posted: 4/24/2017 8:37:52 PM EDT

[#6]

Ok, so I got an ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight and the Hornaday Sonic Cleaner Solution (Gun Parts) from Cabelas. Here's the plan:

- One Cap Full of the Solution.
- Add only the stainless steel parts. No aluminum, right?
- Set for 5 minutes
- Inspect
- Spot clean with wire brush as needed
- Dry with air compressor
- Some have recommended placing in tumbler with SS pins. (Don't have one of these yet)
- Place SS parts in toaster oven a 250 degrees for 15 minutes.
- Remove from toaster oven and place in Dot 5 Brake fluid overnight
- Clean aluminum parts with bore solvent and brush. (ANY OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS?)
- Wipe aluminum parts with DOT 5 brake fluid.
- Remove SS parts from Dot 5 and and wipe down.
- Reassemble silencer

So what does the hive think? Please add your critiques/techniques.

Posted: 4/24/2017 8:44:19 PM EDT

[#7]

I use the harbour freight cheap ultrasonic and the supplied cleaner and have switched to green cleaner. My cans were wow dirty. It took several hours but darn if they were spotless in the end.

Posted: 4/24/2017 9:17:49 PM EDT

[#8]

I use the L&R solution.

Posted: 4/24/2017 9:45:19 PM EDT

[#9]

Quote History

Quoted:
Ok, so I got an ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight and the Hornaday Sonic Cleaner Solution (Gun Parts) from Cabelas. Here's the plan:

- One Cap Full of the Solution.
- Add only the stainless steel parts. No aluminum, right?
- Set for 5 minutes
- Inspect
- Spot clean with wire brush as needed
- Dry with air compressor
- Some have recommended placing in tumbler with SS pins. (Don't have one of these yet)
- Place SS parts in toaster oven a 250 degrees for 15 minutes.
- Remove from toaster oven and place in Dot 5 Brake fluid overnight
- Clean aluminum parts with bore solvent and brush. (ANY OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS?)
- Wipe aluminum parts with DOT 5 brake fluid.
- Remove SS parts from Dot 5 and and wipe down.
- Reassemble silencer

So what does the hive think? Please add your critiques/techniques.

View Quote

I'd say do what works for you.

Use hot water if yours doesn't have heat option

5 mins probably won't be long enough, I go 20-30.

No need to heat them, I just air dry and wipe with a towel

SS pins will just settle under the parts and not do much if anything. You'll need a tumbler designed for SS pins.

Posted: 4/24/2017 10:33:11 PM EDT

[#10]

Quote History

Quoted:
Ok, so I got an ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight and the Hornaday Sonic Cleaner Solution (Gun Parts) from Cabelas. Here's the plan:

- One Cap Full of the Solution.
- Add only the stainless steel parts. No aluminum, right?
- Set for 5 minutes
- Inspect
- Spot clean with wire brush as needed
- Dry with air compressor
- Some have recommended placing in tumbler with SS pins. (Don't have one of these yet)
- Place SS parts in toaster oven a 250 degrees for 15 minutes.
- Remove from toaster oven and place in Dot 5 Brake fluid overnight
- Clean aluminum parts with bore solvent and brush. (ANY OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS?)
- Wipe aluminum parts with DOT 5 brake fluid.
- Remove SS parts from Dot 5 and and wipe down.
- Reassemble silencer

So what does the hive think? Please add your critiques/techniques.

View Quote

My aluminum (non-anodized) baffles go in the ultrasonic after a wipe down. No harm done to them at all. They come out very clean.

They go in a tumbler where they go beyond clean, to polished/like new.

The anodized aluminum will be fine in the ultrasonic as well, but no tumbling.

Posted: 4/24/2017 10:53:37 PM EDT

[#11]

Quote History

Quoted:
I use the L&R solution.

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L&R Solution?

Posted: 4/25/2017 1:43:47 PM EDT

[#12]

I use the Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner for my Rugged Obsidian, and I think it can only do a few minutes at a time (maybe 6 minutes?), so I run it multiple times. The Obsidian's owner manual recommended using a 50/50 mixture of water and Purple Power degreaser, so that's what I use. My process is simple:

- Disassemble suppressor
- Place baffles and mount in the cleaner
- Add water and Purple Power
- Run as many cycles as needed to reach half an hour
- Remove and wipe down
- Light coat of lube and re-assemble

Posted: 4/25/2017 2:22:47 PM EDT

[#13]

I have the Harbor Freight and have used it for 2+ years. I buy gallons of Purple Power from Autozone and mix about 50/50 with water. I only put steel parts in there.

take a piece of soda can or heavy duty foil and put in the Ultrasonic for a 6 minute cycle. Take it out and hole it up to a light. You'll be able to see through it now.

Posted: 4/25/2017 4:59:52 PM EDT

[#14]

Quote History

Quoted:
I have the Harbor Freight and have used it for 2+ years. I buy gallons of Purple Power from Autozone and mix about 50/50 with water. I only put steel parts in there.

take a piece of soda can or heavy duty foil and put in the Ultrasonic for a 6 minute cycle. Take it out and hole it up to a light. You'll be able to see through it now.

View Quote

I cut soda cans about 2 inches high and drill holes in the bottom for draining. I use them to clean very small parts. There is no harm done to the can.

I also called Gemtech and asked them about my aluminum baffles and ultrasonic cleaning. As long as there is no ammonia in the solution they said I was GTG. I have run my baffles a total of three hours or more and have no problem whatsoever.

Your particular cleaner and / or solution might harm aluminum. Good thing you tested it.

I'm glad mine doesn't.

Posted: 4/26/2017 2:24:21 AM EDT

[#15]

Al handles higher frequency US fine. The problem is - unless they've evolved -
commercial grade US cleaners tend to operate at lower Hz, which can cause damage.

An unknown is Ti. I'm not sure what Hz it can handle, if any.

Posted: 4/26/2017 2:56:56 AM EDT

[#16]

is the purple power and water solution good for TiN coated baffles?

and when you say tumbler with SS pins are you talking about the same tumbler we use to clean brass?

if so that will not damage the baffles?

Posted: 4/26/2017 12:06:30 PM EDT

[#17]

Tag.

Ive been using a SS tumbler but thinking of getting AL can.

Posted: 4/26/2017 2:01:16 PM EDT

[#18]

Quote History

Quoted:
Ok, so I got an ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight and the Hornaday Sonic Cleaner Solution (Gun Parts) from Cabelas. Here's the plan:

- One Cap Full of the Solution.
- Add only the stainless steel parts. No aluminum, right?
- Set for 5 minutes
- Inspect
- Spot clean with wire brush as needed
- Dry with air compressor
- Some have recommended placing in tumbler with SS pins. (Don't have one of these yet)
- Place SS parts in toaster oven a 250 degrees for 15 minutes.
- Remove from toaster oven and place in Dot 5 Brake fluid overnight
- Clean aluminum parts with bore solvent and brush. (ANY OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS?)
- Wipe aluminum parts with DOT 5 brake fluid.
- Remove SS parts from Dot 5 and and wipe down.
- Reassemble silencer

So what does the hive think? Please add your critiques/techniques.

View Quote

At first blush, it seems like way overkill.

If you're going to clean baffles/parts using US, just drop it in there for half an hour or whatever time and let it be.

Dry them off and throw them in the silicone oil/brake fluid for 10-15 minutes, wipe off the excess and reassemble the suppressor.

Don't over clean - especially with the Al baffles.

Posted: 4/26/2017 2:07:18 PM EDT

[#19]

Quote History

Quoted:

At first blush, it seems like way overkill.

If you're going to clean baffles/parts using US, just drop it in there for half an hour or whatever time and let it be.

Dry them off and throw them in the silicone oil/brake fluid for 10-15 minutes, wipe off the excess and reassemble the suppressor.

Don't over clean - especially with the Al baffles.

View Quote

Yeah, I get it. It does look like overkill. I'm actually listing two methods I'd seen. One was for the cleaning using the ultrasonic then drying with air compressor. And the other was to heat up the parts in the oven and soak them in silicone for ease of cleanup later.

As far as aluminum, I don't have aluminum baffles. Even my .22 is a Griffin Checkmate monocore that is SS.

Posted: 4/27/2017 10:13:37 AM EDT

[#20]

Quote History

Quoted:

SS pins will just settle under the parts and not do much if anything. You'll need a tumbler designed for SS pins.

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Don't know much about tumblers. The only use I'll have for it will be cleaning of the silencer parts. Will this one (5lb Metal Vibratory Tumbler Bowl) from Harbor Freight work with SS pins? I've read through the description and it mentions cleaning brass and metal parts but not sure if it can handle the pins. Will they usually say?

Posted: 4/27/2017 10:20:35 AM EDT

[#21]

Quote History

Quoted:

Don't know much about tumblers. The only use I'll have for it will be cleaning of the silencer parts. Will this one (5lb Metal Vibratory Tumbler Bowl) from Harbor Freight work with SS pins? I've read through the description and it mentions cleaning brass and metal parts but not sure if it can handle the pins. Will they usually say?

View Quote

For stainless pin tumbling, you need a rotary tumbler and not a vibratory tumbler.

Posted: 4/27/2017 10:23:49 AM EDT

[#22]

Quote History

Quoted:

For stainless pin tumbling, you need a rotary tumbler and not a vibratory tumbler.

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Ah...like this one. Good to go?

Posted: 4/27/2017 10:44:34 AM EDT

[#23]

Quote History

Quoted:

Ah...like this one. Good to go?

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I personally haven't used the Harbor Freight tumbler, but it looks good to go.

Posted: 4/27/2017 11:01:26 AM EDT

[#24]

Quote History

Quoted:

I personally haven't used the Harbor Freight tumbler, but it looks good to go.

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+1.

Can't hurt to try it out

Posted: 6/15/2017 9:28:24 PM EDT

[#25]

Quote History

Quoted:
I personally haven't used the Harbor Freight tumbler, but it looks good to go.

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View All Quotes

Quote History

Quoted:

Quoted:

Ah...like this one. Good to go?

I personally haven't used the Harbor Freight tumbler, but it looks good to go.

I like mine.

Posted: 6/15/2017 10:09:44 PM EDT

[#26]

Mine is the RCBS. I put my 762 SDN-6 in it one time, it did a decent job of cleaning it but it took part of the coating off.

All my other cans are user servicable so ive been taking the baffles out and putting them in my SS tumbler.

Posted: 6/15/2017 11:23:23 PM EDT

[#27]

Quote History

Quoted:
Mine is the RCBS. I put my 762 SDN-6 in it one time, it did a decent job of cleaning it but it took part of the coating off.

All my other cans are user servicable so ive been taking the baffles out and putting them in my SS tumbler.

View Quote

Cerakote C is your friend.