User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 3/19/2017 9:39:26 PM EDT
[#1]
What were you shooting that left pieces of copper jacket inside?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2017 10:03:26 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What were you shooting that left pieces of copper jacket inside? Im thinking it's from a Nosler jhp 9mm round. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2017 10:07:25 PM EDT
[#3]
throw it in the freezer overnight
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2017 10:10:53 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
throw it in the freezer overnight |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2017 10:44:20 PM EDT
[#5]
contraction makes it shrink
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/19/2017 10:53:33 PM EDT
[#6]
Gotcha, that's what I thought.
Im gonna try it |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2017 9:12:27 AM EDT
[#7]
If you are describing a condition where the front cap won't un-screw, that would seem to imply you may not be able to get adequate torque on it to get it to turn. Holding round tubes is sometimes difficult. We use Rigid strap wrenches a decent amount here. It may become at that point a two person job, with one person holding the wrench, and another pressing down onto the front cap and into the workbench with the piston used as the tool.
https://www.zoro.com/ridgid-strap-wrench-3-12-in-dia-cap-31340/i/G2678453/ We also use lock cease 20/20 whenever there is a perceived risk of a component binding. That is sold on the market under 2 names Lock Cease 20/20 and Logix Threadsmart Mcmaster Carr sells one of the two under part number: 9438K1 In the event thread fouling has anything to do with the binding issue, we sell an oateys 1.25" wire brush that cleans the tube and threads of the silencer. Suppressor cleaning brushes |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2017 1:46:19 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you are describing a condition where the front cap won't un-screw, that would seem to imply you may not be able to get adequate torque on it to get it to turn. Holding round tubes is sometimes difficult. We use Rigid strap wrenches a decent amount here. It may become at that point a two person job, with one person holding the wrench, and another pressing down onto the front cap and into the workbench with the piston used as the tool. https://www.zoro.com/ridgid-strap-wrench-3-12-in-dia-cap-31340/i/G2678453/ We also use lock cease 20/20 whenever there is a perceived risk of a component binding. That is sold on the market under 2 names Lock Cease 20/20 and Logix Threadsmart Mcmaster Carr sells one of the two under part number: 9438K1 In the event thread fouling has anything to do with the binding issue, we sell an oateys 1.25" wire brush that cleans the tube and threads of the silencer. Suppressor cleaning brushes We're continuing to try |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2017 2:43:43 PM EDT
[#9]
You could also e-mail tech and return it for service. The parts are a decent application for lock cease. Sometimes copper deposited by firing can braze silencer parts together.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2017 2:53:57 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You could also e-mail tech and return it for service. The parts are a decent application for lock cease. Sometimes copper deposited by firing can braze silencer parts together. How much down force is required? last time I had it apart it didn't require that much downward pressure. I have high temp anti seize to put on it once apart |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2017 4:49:33 PM EDT
[#11]
Got it.
Soaked it in seafoam and was able to break it free |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2017 6:06:09 PM EDT
[#12]
Glad you got it. Sometimes suppressor components stick and that's not ideal.
The lock cease will really help. The tapers and threads common in suppressors are susceptable to copper brazing and in this case are also are the same material (17-4) the nitriding helps to reduce galling risk, but doesn't totally eliminate risk. The lock cease is an additional barrier to further reduce risk of galling. |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/20/2017 11:50:47 PM EDT
[#13]
HERE is what I did. I went to clean my rugged suppressor tonight. I couldn't get the end 9mm cap off. I used the normal pressure. I used WD-40. And still couldn't get it off. I use my heat gun that I have used before, and that didn't help. What I ended up doing is getting my small propane torch and a heating up the ENDCAP just for a few seconds. Not long. That did the trick. I was able to use the piston with a screwdriver through it and hardly use any pressure and it broke free. Before I couldn't get that thing off at all. I wish they made it tool specifically for taking this thing apart. I would buy it in a second. With the end cap, I now put high temperature grease on the threads. Just a small amount.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2017 1:26:56 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
HERE is what I did. I went to clean my rugged suppressor tonight. I couldn't get the end 9mm cap off. I used the normal pressure. I used WD-40. And still couldn't get it off. I use my heat gun that I have used before, and that didn't help. What I ended up doing is getting my small propane torch and a heating up the ENDCAP just for a few seconds. Not long. That did the trick. I was able to use the piston with a screwdriver through it and hardly use any pressure and it broke free. Before I couldn't get that thing off at all. I wish they made it tool specifically for taking this thing apart. I would buy it in a second. With the end cap, I now put high temperature grease on the threads. Just a small amount. I wish the optimus has a baffle pusher tool like the Alpha. Hopefully the one that comes with my Alpha will work with my Optimus |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2017 11:45:46 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Good info. Thanks. I wish the optimus has a baffle pusher tool like the Alpha. Hopefully the one that comes with my Alpha will work with my Optimus |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/21/2017 11:51:03 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Got it. Soaked it in seafoam and was able to break it free |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/24/2017 4:05:17 AM EDT
[#17]
I've been using the antiseize sticks from picture. They have a copper one that isn't so messy
I also get little bits of jacket from one type of bullet I've been playing around with I put a thin film between the end cap and baffle lock and haven't had any issues. I've also been using it on all the threaded parts and my mounts too. I also got a pair of these channel locks with replaceable plastic jaw inserts. They're great for all sorts of suppressor related stuff http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EH99Y0C?tag=vglnk-c102-20 |
|
|
|
Posted: 3/24/2017 11:18:20 AM EDT
[#18]
yeah i'm gonna start using the anti seize.
After I got the end cap off I had a hell of a time getting the baffles out. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
.jpg)
