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Posted: 3/5/2015 12:30:33 PM EDT
[#1]
I had a .556 SDTA for a little while (it blew apart). I was able to get the 1/2-28 thread protector off, but the other end was locked tight. couldn't get the plugs out with cutting apart the tube. No rust, but carbon buildup was killer.
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Posted: 3/5/2015 12:59:09 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I had a .556 SDTA for a little while (it blew apart). I was able to get the 1/2-28 thread protector off, but the other end was locked tight. couldn't get the plugs out with cutting apart the tube. No rust, but carbon buildup was killer. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 1:22:00 PM EDT
[#3]
I'm sure it was a baffle strike gone bad. I don't think it's possible to actually blow up an sdta tube. Especially one of their steel tubes.
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Posted: 3/5/2015 1:23:37 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I had a .556 SDTA for a little while (it blew apart). I was able to get the 1/2-28 thread protector off, but the other end was locked tight. couldn't get the plugs out with cutting apart the tube. No rust, but carbon buildup was killer. got pics? and details of the silencer and how you blew it up? I think there are a few ppl who would like to hear what not to do. I know I would. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 2:07:50 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
got pics? and details of the silencer and how you blew it up? I think there are a few ppl who would like to hear what not to do. I know I would. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I had a .556 SDTA for a little while (it blew apart). I was able to get the 1/2-28 thread protector off, but the other end was locked tight. couldn't get the plugs out with cutting apart the tube. No rust, but carbon buildup was killer. got pics? and details of the silencer and how you blew it up? I think there are a few ppl who would like to hear what not to do. I know I would. Same here. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 2:35:27 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Same here. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I had a .556 SDTA for a little while (it blew apart). I was able to get the 1/2-28 thread protector off, but the other end was locked tight. couldn't get the plugs out with cutting apart the tube. No rust, but carbon buildup was killer. got pics? and details of the silencer and how you blew it up? I think there are a few ppl who would like to hear what not to do. I know I would. Same here. Yes please. Waiting on stamp to come back for a SDTac build. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 7:57:57 PM EDT
[#7]
Carbon build-up can be dealt with pretty easily using GM foaming carbon remover. It's designed to remove baked on carbon from intake ports, valves, and pistons in engines. Mopar also sells similar stuff called "combustion chamber cleaner" but it doesn't foam. The stuff won't hurt metal at all, but it will remove any paint or spray coatings. Very strong stuff though, the carbon literally washes of in chunks.
As far a rust goes, if you make a habit of not shooting the can till it's hot you might get some rust. If you shoot it till it's hot the moisture boils off and no rust forms. Mine has none, sdta steel tube with steel freeze plugs. I never run it with water in it though either, if I use any ablative I use grease. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 9:07:16 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Carbon build-up can be dealt with pretty easily using GM foaming carbon remover. It's designed to remove baked on carbon from intake ports, valves, and pistons in engines. Mopar also sells similar stuff called "combustion chamber cleaner" but it doesn't foam. The stuff won't hurt metal at all, but it will remove any paint or spray coatings. Very strong stuff though, the carbon literally washes of in chunks. As far a rust goes, if you make a habit of not shooting the can till it's hot you might get some rust. If you shoot it till it's hot the moisture boils off and no rust forms. Mine has none, sdta steel tube with steel freeze plugs. I never run it with water in it though either, if I use any ablative I use grease. |
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Posted: 3/5/2015 10:25:29 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Carbon build-up can be dealt with pretty easily using GM foaming carbon remover. It's designed to remove baked on carbon from intake ports, valves, and pistons in engines. Mopar also sells similar stuff called "combustion chamber cleaner" but it doesn't foam. The stuff won't hurt metal at all, but it will remove any paint or spray coatings. Very strong stuff though, the carbon literally washes of in chunks. As far a rust goes, if you make a habit of not shooting the can till it's hot you might get some rust. If you shoot it till it's hot the moisture boils off and no rust forms. Mine has none, sdta steel tube with steel freeze plugs. I never run it with water in it though either, if I use any ablative I use grease. |
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Posted: 3/6/2015 12:14:30 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I had a .556 SDTA for a little while (it blew apart). I was able to get the 1/2-28 thread protector off, but the other end was locked tight. couldn't get the plugs out with cutting apart the tube. No rust, but carbon buildup was killer. Kinda like opening a door, tossing a glock in the room and shutting the door and walking away. So much valuable info I cannot contain myself. |
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Posted: 3/6/2015 11:17:11 AM EDT
[#11]
Not quite the same thing, but I have an all-stainless steel Form 1 can I built from scratch with threaded endcaps and 60 degree stepped cone baffles. After a couple thousand rounds or so of both 5.56 and 308 I took it apart just to see how it was holding up. The endcaps were pretty gunked up with carbon but unscrewed fairly easy - I just clamped the endcap in a vise and just unscrewed the tube with my bare hands. The inside was coated with quite a bit of carbon but no visible wear. I didn't bother to clean it, just reassembled.
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Posted: 3/6/2015 4:10:16 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Any chance you can tell us about your can? Maybe baffle design? How does it sound? Pics? Etc.... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Carbon build-up can be dealt with pretty easily using GM foaming carbon remover. It's designed to remove baked on carbon from intake ports, valves, and pistons in engines. Mopar also sells similar stuff called "combustion chamber cleaner" but it doesn't foam. The stuff won't hurt metal at all, but it will remove any paint or spray coatings. Very strong stuff though, the carbon literally washes of in chunks. As far a rust goes, if you make a habit of not shooting the can till it's hot you might get some rust. If you shoot it till it's hot the moisture boils off and no rust forms. Mine has none, sdta steel tube with steel freeze plugs. I never run it with water in it though either, if I use any ablative I use grease. I posted about it in the $100 form one thread, but it's an 8.3" SDTA d cell steel tube, mag lite front cap, SDTA steel QD rear cap to mount onto the SDTA brake. I made a custom blast baffle, but otherwise there's eleven 60 degree freeze plug cones, clipped. The first baffle is about a quarter inch off the tip of the brake. I don't think I got any pictures of the internals other than my blast baffle. I also made a custom detent lock for the can because the thing kept coming loose on the brake. I don't have anything to compare it to, but it's quiet to me, I run it on my 8" blackout. 
Before I blued the lock. 
Blast baffle 
I have a rimfire build I'm doing right now but I'm undecided on baffles. |
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Posted: 3/6/2015 5:33:47 PM EDT
[#13]
RE: water in a can - I could be wrong, but I believe most manufacturers recommend you not run an ablative in centerfire rifle cans, just pistol and rimfire.
Wire pulling gel works great. |
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