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Posted: 10/29/2014 7:01:34 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Saker locks up tight. They beat them at their own game. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Does anyone know if a saker 762 with the 51t maad mount will wobble on the 51t mount? Saker locks up tight. They beat them at their own game. And lots of reports of Sakers stuck on mounts. The rotational backlash or "wobble" as people ignorantly call it is a function of the design of the mount. Any time the teeth of two gears meet there is going to be play, it's called backlash. Some AAC mounts are tighter because stacking tolerances allow the suppressor to achieve clamping force on the mount at a different position. Which is why grinding down the shoulder works, you're allowing it to thread on further. Not saying its the best mount or anything, there are clearly better designs out there, but looking at the design from a purely mechanical standpoint the play is 100% to be expected, don't like it don't use a mounting system that relies on a ratchet and pawl mechanism. |
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Posted: 10/29/2014 10:16:49 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And lots of reports of Sakers stuck on mounts. The rotational backlash or "wobble" as people ignorantly call it is a function of the design of the mount. Any time the teeth of two gears meet there is going to be play, it's called backlash. Some AAC mounts are tighter because stacking tolerances allow the suppressor to achieve clamping force on the mount at a different position. Which is why grinding down the shoulder works, you're allowing it to thread on further. Not saying its the best mount or anything, there are clearly better designs out there, but looking at the design from a purely mechanical standpoint the play is 100% to be expected, don't like it don't use a mounting system that relies on a ratchet and pawl mechanism. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Does anyone know if a saker 762 with the 51t maad mount will wobble on the 51t mount? Saker locks up tight. They beat them at their own game. And lots of reports of Sakers stuck on mounts. The rotational backlash or "wobble" as people ignorantly call it is a function of the design of the mount. Any time the teeth of two gears meet there is going to be play, it's called backlash. Some AAC mounts are tighter because stacking tolerances allow the suppressor to achieve clamping force on the mount at a different position. Which is why grinding down the shoulder works, you're allowing it to thread on further. Not saying its the best mount or anything, there are clearly better designs out there, but looking at the design from a purely mechanical standpoint the play is 100% to be expected, don't like it don't use a mounting system that relies on a ratchet and pawl mechanism. Not reading a thread and then making a smartass non constructive reply seems more ignorant to me. |
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Posted: 10/29/2014 11:16:17 AM EDT
[#3]
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Someone please post an easy button with a link to purchase this goodness! Found some Viton orings at Amazon. 25 pack for $4.70. O-ring link |
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Posted: 10/29/2014 2:05:42 PM EDT
[#4]
I'm gonna order some and give this a shot.
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Posted: 10/29/2014 8:53:45 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Someone please post an easy button with a link to purchase this goodness! Found some Viton orings at Amazon. 25 pack for $4.70. O-ring link Ordered, thanks for the easy button link! |
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Posted: 10/29/2014 9:32:42 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ordered, thanks for the easy button link! Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Someone please post an easy button with a link to purchase this goodness! Found some Viton orings at Amazon. 25 pack for $4.70. O-ring link Ordered, thanks for the easy button link! Ordered also. Thanks |
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Posted: 10/29/2014 9:41:56 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And lots of reports of Sakers stuck on mounts. The rotational backlash or "wobble" as people ignorantly call it is a function of the design of the mount. Any time the teeth of two gears meet there is going to be play, it's called backlash. Some AAC mounts are tighter because stacking tolerances allow the suppressor to achieve clamping force on the mount at a different position. Which is why grinding down the shoulder works, you're allowing it to thread on further. Not saying its the best mount or anything, there are clearly better designs out there, but looking at the design from a purely mechanical standpoint the play is 100% to be expected, don't like it don't use a mounting system that relies on a ratchet and pawl mechanism. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Does anyone know if a saker 762 with the 51t maad mount will wobble on the 51t mount? Saker locks up tight. They beat them at their own game. And lots of reports of Sakers stuck on mounts. The rotational backlash or "wobble" as people ignorantly call it is a function of the design of the mount. Any time the teeth of two gears meet there is going to be play, it's called backlash. Some AAC mounts are tighter because stacking tolerances allow the suppressor to achieve clamping force on the mount at a different position. Which is why grinding down the shoulder works, you're allowing it to thread on further. Not saying its the best mount or anything, there are clearly better designs out there, but looking at the design from a purely mechanical standpoint the play is 100% to be expected, don't like it don't use a mounting system that relies on a ratchet and pawl mechanism. With the trifecta mount or the 51T? Pretty sure most, if not all,have been from the trifecta mount. |
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Posted: 10/29/2014 9:51:37 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Saker locks up tight. They beat them at their own game. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Does anyone know if a saker 762 with the 51t maad mount will wobble on the 51t mount? Saker locks up tight. They beat them at their own game. Ya it is rock solid from everything I have heard from users. I believe the Saker 51T mount works differently than the AAC mount, so the wobble isn't a possibility. |
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Posted: 10/29/2014 9:57:18 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
And lots of reports of Sakers stuck on mounts. For myself and just about every other examples I have heard are from letting the can cool all the way down. Reheating the can with a few shots is all it usually takes to get it off. You'll only let that happen once and you wont forget to take it off before it cools down the next time. |
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Posted: 10/29/2014 10:09:47 PM EDT
[#10]
I'll try this on my two 762-SDs.
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Posted: 10/29/2014 10:18:52 PM EDT
[#11]
I did this years ago with a viton o-ring I ordered from McMaster Carr. I was originally buying spares for my Tirant and Element.
Bought a 50 pack for not much money. Part number is 9464K73. |
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Posted: 10/29/2014 10:22:04 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I did this years ago with a viton o-ring I ordered from McMaster Carr. I was originally buying spares for my Tirant and Element. Bought a 50 pack for not much money. Part number is 9464K73. How well do they hold up to the heat? |
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Posted: 10/29/2014 10:31:11 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How well do they hold up to the heat? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I did this years ago with a viton o-ring I ordered from McMaster Carr. I was originally buying spares for my Tirant and Element. Bought a 50 pack for not much money. Part number is 9464K73. How well do they hold up to the heat? Never got it very hot. My sdn-6 locks up pretty tight anyway so I stopped using the o-ring. |
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Posted: 11/3/2014 3:34:54 PM EDT
[#14]
I like the O-Ring idea.
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Posted: 11/3/2014 8:58:14 PM EDT
[#15]
I'm going to try it also.
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Posted: 11/10/2014 10:15:08 PM EDT
[#16]
I just tried the "polish"method if you will based on another thread somewhere.Someone posted that they barely took the finish off and it allowed their can to lock up tight. I took a small patch of 2000 grit sandpaper and in less than three minutes my M4-2000 locks up rock solid with zero movement. I was actually very surprised. I'd give this a shot before I try the o-ring. I'll take pics and post them of what my break looks like now if anyone is interested.
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Posted: 11/10/2014 10:17:14 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just tried the "polish"method if you will based on another thread somewhere.Someone posted that they barely took the finish off and it allowed their can to lock up tight. I took a small patch of 2000 grit sandpaper and in less than three minutes my M4-2000 locks up rock solid with zero movement. I was actually very surprised. I'd give this a shot before I try the o-ring. I'll take pics and post them of what my break looks like now if anyone is interested. Can I ask why you recommend modifying the mount vs adding a simple oring?? |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 1:09:57 AM EDT
[#18]
does anyone know where the majority of the variance lies? Can latching system or the mounts?
I have an SDN-6 fitted to a mount I sanded down for zero play on a SCAR. If I was to buy the 7.62-SD, could I expect the same tight fit or would it be anyone's guess? |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 1:35:50 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
does anyone know where the majority of the variance lies? Can latching system or the mounts? I have an SDN-6 fitted to a mount I sanded down for zero play on a SCAR. If I was to buy the 7.62-SD, could I expect the same tight fit or would it be anyone's guess? I have an SDN-6 and a bunch of mounts. Only a couple had play. I let mine get filthy with carbon & they tightened up. It's tolerances. (the mounts) The play doesn't really affect anything; a few people have said they got better accuracy after they tightened them up, but on my mounts with play I saw no difference. If they were made so they had zero play in all mounts it would have to be designed differently & it would be really easy to glue them on with carbon (which can happen anyhow with any mount design) so you end up unscrewing the mount from the barrel with can attached. |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 3:31:20 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
does anyone know where the majority of the variance lies? Can latching system or the mounts? I have an SDN-6 fitted to a mount I sanded down for zero play on a SCAR. If I was to buy the 7.62-SD, could I expect the same tight fit or would it be anyone's guess? Stacking of tolerances. You can't count on it being tight on another because it's tight on one. The next one might have slightly different final dimensions. The rotational aspect of the "wobble" is the nature of the design. What you're feeling is the teeth of the ratchets pawl moving back and forth between the teeth between the teeth its engaged on. If you read the literature that comes with the silencer it actually says play is acceptable as long as it does not cause the can to back off the mount. |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 4:47:43 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can I ask why you recommend modifying the mount vs adding a simple oring?? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I just tried the "polish"method if you will based on another thread somewhere.Someone posted that they barely took the finish off and it allowed their can to lock up tight. I took a small patch of 2000 grit sandpaper and in less than three minutes my M4-2000 locks up rock solid with zero movement. I was actually very surprised. I'd give this a shot before I try the o-ring. I'll take pics and post them of what my break looks like now if anyone is interested. Can I ask why you recommend modifying the mount vs adding a simple oring?? It is not modifying the mount at all, it didn't even take all the finish off. I didn't throw it on a lathe or anything. Can I ask why you want to add something that isn't part of the design and will wear out rather an simply doing some light polishing? It took me longer to write this than I did polishing it. I didn't have to order anything and won't have to replace an o-ring with it goes bad. YMMV. |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 4:59:56 PM EDT
[#22]
I had same issues, it would always effect the POI. I took fine grit sand paper metal polishing compound and sanded the mount polised the mount where the SDN-6 touches. it finally secured tighly and havet had an issue since.
MJ Quoted:
I have read and read for six months about this but Im opening up discussion again because it is not working for a few of my mounts. I understand the whole "let it rest in the valley until carbon builds up" and that works after a few rounds on some of my mounts. But I also have a few that wobble on the bore axis, not rotational wobble. Now as far as I can tell no one has posted about trying a rubber o-ring to solve the issue. I have a Wilson Combat Whisper suppressor that does and it has the most solid lock-up of any of MY cans, Im sure there are others. Here is the 51T as it is normally. <a href="http://s44.photobucket.com/user/mossyrocks/media/596C68A9-97D7-4C16-8713-D1328C8821B6.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/mossyrocks/596C68A9-97D7-4C16-8713-D1328C8821B6.jpg</a> Here is the Wilson Mount with o-ring. <a href="http://s44.photobucket.com/user/mossyrocks/media/49102388-4E2B-40EE-B39F-694D3B830FAD.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/mossyrocks/49102388-4E2B-40EE-B39F-694D3B830FAD.jpg</a> And the 51T with the Wilson o-ring. It sits perfectly in the valley ahead of the taper and behind the last of the thread. <a href="http://s44.photobucket.com/user/mossyrocks/media/89388CE5-F366-45AD-AB52-F940D0F5E377.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f35/mossyrocks/89388CE5-F366-45AD-AB52-F940D0F5E377.jpg</a> When tightening down on my previously tight mounts it still lets it get to the same tooth, same goes for my loose mounts. You can feel it make contact about a quarter turn from tight and then it slowly gains a bit of resistance. It has a very solid lockup but is still easy to remove. Am I missing something here? Is it this easy to fix? With it tightening to the same tooth as before I dont see how it could cause it to be off axis in any way. |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 5:11:37 PM EDT
[#23]
Did the same thing!! worked great
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just tried the "polish"method if you will based on another thread somewhere.Someone posted that they barely took the finish off and it allowed their can to lock up tight. I took a small patch of 2000 grit sandpaper and in less than three minutes my M4-2000 locks up rock solid with zero movement. I was actually very surprised. I'd give this a shot before I try the o-ring. I'll take pics and post them of what my break looks like now if anyone is interested. |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 9:19:04 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It is not modifying the mount at all, it didn't even take all the finish off. I didn't throw it on a lathe or anything. Can I ask why you want to add something that isn't part of the design and will wear out rather an simply doing some light polishing? It took me longer to write this than I did polishing it. I didn't have to order anything and won't have to replace an o-ring with it goes bad. YMMV. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I just tried the "polish"method if you will based on another thread somewhere.Someone posted that they barely took the finish off and it allowed their can to lock up tight. I took a small patch of 2000 grit sandpaper and in less than three minutes my M4-2000 locks up rock solid with zero movement. I was actually very surprised. I'd give this a shot before I try the o-ring. I'll take pics and post them of what my break looks like now if anyone is interested. Can I ask why you recommend modifying the mount vs adding a simple oring?? It is not modifying the mount at all, it didn't even take all the finish off. I didn't throw it on a lathe or anything. Can I ask why you want to add something that isn't part of the design and will wear out rather an simply doing some light polishing? It took me longer to write this than I did polishing it. I didn't have to order anything and won't have to replace an o-ring with it goes bad. YMMV. I dont want to do anything I was simply asking. My standard method is to modify last which is why I was asking. |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 11:03:40 PM EDT
[#25]
I did notice that the o-ring trick does reduce concentricity slightly.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 1:28:31 PM EDT
[#26]
Any more updates?
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Posted: 12/18/2014 1:53:37 PM EDT
[#27]
Just to add my two cents. My AAC 762sd locks up tight on my 51t mount. I crank it down to snug and there is just enough play to crank it to the next tooth. Granted I've only had it for a week, but it's tight and sounds good.
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Posted: 12/18/2014 9:50:02 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just to add my two cents. My AAC 762sd locks up tight on my 51t mount. I crank it down to snug and there is just enough play to crank it to the next tooth. Granted I've only had it for a week, but it's tight and sounds good. Mine locks up on a couple mounts very snug, but on a couple others it does not. This mod would be good for folks with several hosts. |
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Posted: 1/23/2015 1:07:01 PM EDT
[#29]
I'm still waiting on my 762SD, so I don't know if I'll have an issues yet... but here's a link for a 100-pack of Silicone o-rings (in case anyone's worried about 400F not being enough, these are rated to 450F).
http://www.amazon.com/020-Silicone-O-Ring-Durometer-Width/dp/B000FN0XZO |
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Posted: 2/6/2015 9:48:21 AM EDT
[#30]
Finally got my SDN6 out of jail. Super tight lock up with no wobble on one rifle with a brakeout mount. I can not test the other on my 5.56 yet as I have to remove a small amount of material off a Sampson rail so it will fit.
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Posted: 2/6/2015 2:37:11 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just to add my two cents. My AAC 762sd locks up tight on my 51t mount. I crank it down to snug and there is just enough play to crank it to the next tooth. Granted I've only had it for a week, but it's tight and sounds good. I just picked up two and mine are the same way. They can be difficult to get off if I crank too much. |
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Posted: 2/9/2015 6:21:15 PM EDT
[#32]
im interested to see how mine fit up now that I've got a M24K on the way.
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Posted: 3/8/2015 4:02:38 PM EDT
[#33]
bump
I forgot I ordered o rings. Just found them and put on. Locks up tight now. Just hope doesn't cause any problems. |
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Posted: 3/11/2015 4:54:43 PM EDT
[#34]
silicone shouldn't be an issue.
dont get rubber orings. |
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Posted: 4/6/2015 7:08:29 PM EDT
[#35]
What's wrong with rubber?
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Posted: 4/6/2015 10:21:59 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What's wrong with rubber? Melty. They get 7-800 degrees really quick. |
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Posted: 4/12/2015 3:37:00 AM EDT
[#37]
Fuuuuuuuuuuck. I'm about to have to send my sdn6 in for the SECOND time in about a year as it keeps backing off teeth when shooting on pretty much all my mounts. These latches need to get fixed.
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Posted: 4/12/2015 11:58:25 AM EDT
[#38]
Looks like I might have to take some material off the mount.
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Posted: 4/12/2015 2:40:11 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Fuuuuuuuuuuck. I'm about to have to send my sdn6 in for the SECOND time in about a year as it keeps backing off teeth when shooting on pretty much all my mounts. These latches need to get fixed. As in the ones that you have need to get fixed or as in they need to figure out a revision that they can add to the cans already produced. |
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Posted: 4/12/2015 3:05:04 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
As in the ones that you have need to get fixed or as in they need to figure out a revision that they can add to the cans already produced. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Fuuuuuuuuuuck. I'm about to have to send my sdn6 in for the SECOND time in about a year as it keeps backing off teeth when shooting on pretty much all my mounts. These latches need to get fixed. As in the ones that you have need to get fixed or as in they need to figure out a revision that they can add to the cans already produced. They need to get the hardness of the latch figured out so they last better. |
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