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Posted: 10/17/2014 5:27:27 PM EDT
[#1]
Those stepped plugs may very well work for 9mm or 45. I bet they would work even better if you did golf ball dimples around the circumference of the flat portions. M baffles might still be better
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Posted: 10/17/2014 5:48:04 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: might be able to use carbon fiber tube as spacers? There are carbon fiber tubes for sale on ebay. Just find the size that you would need saw or part them on a lathe and finish to your spacer sizes, they should hold up and keep it light. Dang it now I am think I need to look into this. Also what about titanium valve spring retainers instead of freeze plugs??? http://rebelracingproducts.com/images/Ti_003.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: I've seriously been considering a "Maglite" suppressor build or two. I have an Octane 45 and really like it a lot, however I have no desire to put it on a HD firearm. I'd like to do a 9mm C-cell Maglite can for my HD Beretta M9. I also hope to do a .223/.22 LR stainless can with stainless baffles. I don't like the look of tiny .22 LR cans on rifles. My main issue as of late has been thinking up ways I would reduce weight on such a build. weight savings is gonna be a hard sell for these builds (frugal). You can always do a 2 cell mag light and less baffles. Most .22 cans are 1in diameter if I recall correctly; these are 1.55 so you can get the same internal volumn with a shorter 1.55 can. Sure the can body is AL but you can soak your baffles (SS) if you want to clean them. Just use as much AL as you can is all I can say. My plan has been to use the stainless tube. It has a .100" wall. I then hope to have it turned down to around .065" or maybe even slightly lower ahead of my blast chamber if possible. I have a local 07/02 that should be able to do that. Then, as far as baffles are concerned, I plan to use 6-8 SS baffles and anodized aluminum spacers that have been drilled for lightening purposes. Based on other designs I have seen, this should be doable in the low 20-ounce range. I would like to see flush-fit endcaps in SS for these tubes. I also have concerns about using aluminum, even if anodized, as spacers. High heat/pressure can corrode aluminum and I am not sure how well anodizing will protect them. If it turns out that the performance is garbage there are plenty of 07/02s out there that can recore it for me, I just want to give it a shot. There are carbon fiber tubes for sale on ebay. Just find the size that you would need saw or part them on a lathe and finish to your spacer sizes, they should hold up and keep it light. Dang it now I am think I need to look into this. Also what about titanium valve spring retainers instead of freeze plugs??? http://rebelracingproducts.com/images/Ti_003.jpg  |
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Posted: 10/17/2014 5:52:17 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Also what about titanium valve spring retainers instead of freeze plugs??? http://rebelracingproducts.com/images/Ti_003.jpg I'm loving Ti valve spring retainer idea. I'm thinking to use two as the blast baffles seperated by 1" spacer. The rest would be freeze plugs with a correct bore diameter to meter gases more slowly. The Ti would be used to take the brunt of the muzzle blast. I see the on eBay in 1.350 OD but they're only being sold in sets of 16. Cheapest I saw is $179 for the set or about $11 per. Anyone know where and if these can be bought singly? |
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Posted: 10/17/2014 6:05:34 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm loving Ti valve spring retainer idea. I'm thinking to use two as the blast baffles seperated by 1" spacer. The rest would be freeze plugs with a correct bore diameter to meter gases more slowly. The Ti would be used to take the brunt of the muzzle blast. I see the on eBay in 1.350 OD but they're only being sold in sets of 16. Cheapest I saw is $179 for the set or about $11 per. Anyone know where and if these can be bought singly? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Also what about titanium valve spring retainers instead of freeze plugs??? http://rebelracingproducts.com/images/Ti_003.jpg I'm loving Ti valve spring retainer idea. I'm thinking to use two as the blast baffles seperated by 1" spacer. The rest would be freeze plugs with a correct bore diameter to meter gases more slowly. The Ti would be used to take the brunt of the muzzle blast. I see the on eBay in 1.350 OD but they're only being sold in sets of 16. Cheapest I saw is $179 for the set or about $11 per. Anyone know where and if these can be bought singly? ETA: Although they're not easy to find on the site sometimes...
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Posted: 10/18/2014 6:17:09 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
JEGS sells most sizes in pairs... ETA: Although they're not easy to find on the site sometimes... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Also what about titanium valve spring retainers instead of freeze plugs??? http://rebelracingproducts.com/images/Ti_003.jpg I'm loving Ti valve spring retainer idea. I'm thinking to use two as the blast baffles seperated by 1" spacer. The rest would be freeze plugs with a correct bore diameter to meter gases more slowly. The Ti would be used to take the brunt of the muzzle blast. I see the on eBay in 1.350 OD but they're only being sold in sets of 16. Cheapest I saw is $179 for the set or about $11 per. Anyone know where and if these can be bought singly? ETA: Although they're not easy to find on the site sometimes... CV- Everythng racing |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 10:17:11 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Also what about titanium valve spring retainers instead of freeze plugs??? http://rebelracingproducts.com/images/Ti_003.jpg I'm loving Ti valve spring retainer idea. I'm thinking to use two as the blast baffles seperated by 1" spacer. The rest would be freeze plugs with a correct bore diameter to meter gases more slowly. The Ti would be used to take the brunt of the muzzle blast. I see the on eBay in 1.350 OD but they're only being sold in sets of 16. Cheapest I saw is $179 for the set or about $11 per. Anyone know where and if these can be bought singly? ETA: Although they're not easy to find on the site sometimes... CV- Everythng racing What is the bore diameter? I looked at these and if guess about .4-.5. In other words, way too big for most applications. |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 10:21:06 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Also what about titanium valve spring retainers instead of freeze plugs??? http://rebelracingproducts.com/images/Ti_003.jpg I'm loving Ti valve spring retainer idea. I'm thinking to use two as the blast baffles seperated by 1" spacer. The rest would be freeze plugs with a correct bore diameter to meter gases more slowly. The Ti would be used to take the brunt of the muzzle blast. I see the on eBay in 1.350 OD but they're only being sold in sets of 16. Cheapest I saw is $179 for the set or about $11 per. Anyone know where and if these can be bought singly? ETA: Although they're not easy to find on the site sometimes... CV- Everythng racing Is .775" the hole diameter? |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 11:12:12 AM EDT
[#8]
This is sort of what I'm thinking for end caps... hollowed out, and very minimal length added.
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Posted: 10/18/2014 11:27:52 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is sort of what I'm thinking for end caps... hollowed out, and very minimal length added. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/yhIAAOSwxH1UCnL7/$_57.JPG Would mill bits and sliding vice work on a drill press to take the external portion down from 1/2" to 1/8"? |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 11:29:51 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is .775" the hole diameter? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is .775" the hole diameter? I think you have to look for the valve stem diameter. If you go to Valve Spring Retainersyou can sort by stem diameter. The ones with a smaller valve stem diameter, .310" only have a 1.15" OD. Quoted:
This is sort of what I'm thinking for end caps... hollowed out, and very minimal length added. If SDTactical could do those in steel, he'd have something. Maybe send him those pics? As said before, a solid steel end cap same as the aluminum will weigh too much. |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 12:52:09 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
<<<snip>>> Is .775" the hole diameter? It is on the ones that I referenced in the link. While it's more that twice the diameter I need I think I'm still going to try one, maybe two as blast baffles to take the brunt on the muzzle balst. The rest of the baffles will be to spec. |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 2:42:06 PM EDT
[#12]
I already had a Form 1 I submitted to make a .22 can submitted about a month ago. I just submitted another Form 1 after seeing this.... looks like a fun project.
It would be nice if someone started selling a titanium tube with internal threads on both ends..I know it would be expensive, but I think it would be worth the weight savings. |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 4:34:13 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is sort of what I'm thinking for end caps... hollowed out, and very minimal length added. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/yhIAAOSwxH1UCnL7/$_57.JPG guy on amazon has some http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HEXM4LY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HEXM4LY&linkCode=as2&tag=armor-20&linkId=ZXMWCX7RKAVF5Y4T |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 4:42:08 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
This is sort of what I'm thinking for end caps... hollowed out, and very minimal length added. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/OTAwWDE2MDA=/z/yhIAAOSwxH1UCnL7/$_57.JPG guy on amazon has some http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HEXM4LY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HEXM4LY&linkCode=as2&tag=armor-20&linkId=ZXMWCX7RKAVF5Y4T He doesn't have an endcap or a griffin mount adapter, which are the two I need. |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 8:52:55 PM EDT
[#15]
The plan (not to scale)
Estimated total Weight: Tube: 7.51oz End Caps: 2.3oz + 1.6oz(estimate) Aluminum Spacer: 1oz (estimate) Freeze Plugs: 10x .65oz Total: 18.91oz 
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Posted: 10/18/2014 9:00:30 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The plan (not to scale) Estimated total Weight: Tube: 7.51oz End Caps: 2.3oz + 1.6oz(estimate) Aluminum Spacer: 1oz (estimate) Freeze Plugs: 10x .65oz Total: 18.91oz https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/15381483989_54caa48fd4_o.png |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 9:34:15 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryHe doesn't have an endcap or a griffin mount adapter, which are the two I need. I spent an hour talking to him today, really nice guy that is very overworked. He has ran up to 300win mag with the aluminum parts and really trying to keep the costs down but he is open to our suggestions. The steel end caps (center marked) and thread adapters 1/2 5/8 and the Griffin QD mount are already produced in Carbon Steel and at the coater it will be another two weeks. The design is exactly the same as aluminum (except the wasted overhang was cut off all versions) which would be an issue for some the end caps would be super heavy without further machining. He is open to the suggestions I made I think many of the happen in the next run. Among those is a thinner (hollow) ID center marked end cap with the minimum overhang, potentially a version that is flush fit with holes for use with a adjustable spanner wrench or SD's own matching spanner wrench, or one with a 3/4 socket connection end, and more machining (hollowing) of the 1/2 and 5/8 adaptors in steel. Other than elimiating the overhang of the Griffin QD mount there is not much metal there it would likely stay the same. He can profile they tubes they have, I suggested .065". He is considering a Ti version, at the price point he gave (he thought it was too expensive) I thought most people would op for that as it is still cheap. Most of these require more machine time, work, more expensive materials, more hardware cost on his time and would be at a higher price point. |
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Posted: 10/18/2014 9:50:31 PM EDT
[#18]
Yup got an email from him saying steel caps were already being produced and would be available shorlty. Now, to scrape up 200$ and submit my form1.
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Posted: 10/18/2014 10:01:53 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I wouldn't feel comfortable with a .040 outer tube wall thickness... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The plan (not to scale) Estimated total Weight: Tube: 7.51oz End Caps: 2.3oz + 1.6oz(estimate) Aluminum Spacer: 1oz (estimate) Freeze Plugs: 10x .65oz Total: 18.91oz https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/15381483989_54caa48fd4_o.png We havent exactly decided on that yet. but looking at specs of real suppressors we should be good. Highest pressures are in the blast baffle area which we have at .08" wall thickness. |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 10:08:11 AM EDT
[#20]
So, now perfectly to scale. My friend measured a gap created by several pieces, I then measured using my picture. I was .05" off of the 2.4" measurement. Which my measurements are based off of average freeze plug heights...
Anyway.... 
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Posted: 10/19/2014 10:25:50 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So, now perfectly to scale. My friend measured a gap created by several pieces, I then measured using my picture. I was .05" off of the 2.4" measurement. Which my measurements are based off of average freeze plug heights... Anyway.... https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5598/15387160697_8c8be78096_o.png Questions: - I'm assuming that the muzzle brake will serve as primary balst baffle. True? - Have you described how you'll form the M baffles? I'm assuming some type of pressure forming. True? If so, can you describe the process? - The 1st baffle, forward of the muzzle brake, appears to be reversed with the "cup" facing forward and stacked against a F plug facing back toward the Muzzle of the weapon. Is that correct? Great diagrams, btw, and thanks for posting those. |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 10:36:39 AM EDT
[#22]
I havent made any baffles, I am going on what my friend described. We were on skype and he was viewing my screen as I drew them and he said they are accurrate.
Apparently having the front baffle flat reduces any negative accuracy impacts that a suppressor can cause. I forget why that one is flipped. Yes the muzzle brake should act as a blast baffle to an extent. |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 10:49:16 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I havent made any baffles, I am going on what my friend described. We were on skype and he was viewing my screen as I drew them and he said they are accurrate. Apparently having the front baffle flat reduces any negative accuracy impacts that a suppressor can cause. I forget why that one is flipped. Yes the muzzle brake should act as a blast baffle to an extent. Thanks. Would like to know how he plans of forming those M baffles. I find the comment of the flat baffle interesting. The only suppressor that I have with a flat 1st baffle is my .22 can which is a mono-core. My M42K, Trident and custom .458 can all have conical blast baffles? I've also found that a can can actually dial a rifle in if mounted correctly. It'll change POI to be sure but as long as it's mounted corrrectly it can shrink groups. |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 12:32:18 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks. Would like to know how he plans of forming those M baffles. I find the comment of the flat baffle interesting. The only suppressor that I have with a flat 1st baffle is my .22 can which is a mono-core. My M42K, Trident and custom .458 can all have conical blast baffles? I've also found that a can can actually dial a rifle in if mounted correctly. It'll change POI to be sure but as long as it's mounted corrrectly it can shrink groups. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I havent made any baffles, I am going on what my friend described. We were on skype and he was viewing my screen as I drew them and he said they are accurrate. Apparently having the front baffle flat reduces any negative accuracy impacts that a suppressor can cause. I forget why that one is flipped. Yes the muzzle brake should act as a blast baffle to an extent. Thanks. Would like to know how he plans of forming those M baffles. I find the comment of the flat baffle interesting. The only suppressor that I have with a flat 1st baffle is my .22 can which is a mono-core. My M42K, Trident and custom .458 can all have conical blast baffles? I've also found that a can can actually dial a rifle in if mounted correctly. It'll change POI to be sure but as long as it's mounted corrrectly it can shrink groups. Even if it wasn't flat the end cap is. I'm drilling out the end cap and hopefully not using it when it is build assuming there is a alternate design by then. |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 1:26:07 PM EDT
[#25]
Here is my baffle forming process for a concave cone baffle from freeze plugs. This method is repeatable for consistency baffle to baffle.
Baffles are all center marked, drilled with a 1/8" bit and if you are wanting vent holes then 1.8mm holes are drilled, they will expand up to 1.8mmX2.4mm during the forming process, you can enlarge after forming if needed. Baffles for all calibers start like this: 
The cone forming process will increase the hole size about 50%. You want the hole size about .060 over the round, so are looking at finished baffles with a .28 finished size for 223 or .37 finished size for 308. Next you pick your start off hole size for 223. PIctured is a 11/64" drill bit (.16") that requires 4 expansion steps and will give about a 60deg or more cone. If you are looking to keep it simple you can drill 7/32" (.21") hole and it requires only one press for around a 45deg cone. For 308 to get a .37" finished hole you can start with 7/32" and requires 4 press steps, or a .27" hole that requires 3 press steps. 
Your going to need a 3/4" socket and probably are going to have 2-3 wraps of tape for a tight fit for a base for the freeze plug. Also your going to need a Torx set for about $10 at your AutoParts store. You are going to be crushing the torx sockets into your freeze plug, the star patter when go through the center, you are using the neck to expand and form the plugs. 
For the example of a .16" start hole you will use a T10 first, T25, T27, then T30. Your pretty much going to have to use all your force to with each or the next will not fit, and on the final step another hard crush, stop and measure as needed, I hit .28" on each. 
For 308 you can start with a .21" hole and use a T27, T30, T40, T45 torx in that order, or use a .27" hole and a T30, T40, T45. For a quicker way to form 223 baffles you can use a .21" hole and a single press with a T27 bit. The cone is a bit shallower this way, here is the single step one: 
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Posted: 10/19/2014 1:49:15 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here is my baffle forming process for a concave cone baffle from freeze plugs. This method is repeatable for consistency baffle to baffle. Baffles are all center marked, drilled with a 1/8" bit and if you are wanting vent holes then 1.8mm holes are drilled, they will expand up to 1.8mmX2.4mm during the forming process, you can enlarge after forming if needed. Baffles for all calibers start like this: http://i57.tinypic.com/2l8af4l.jpg The cone forming process will increase the hole size about 50%. You want the hole size about .060 over the round, so are looking at finished baffles with a .28 finished size for 223 or .37 finished size for 308. Next you pick your start off hole size for 223. PIctured is a 11/64" drill bit (.16") that requires 4 expansion steps and will give about a 60deg or more cone. If you are looking to keep it simple you can drill 7/32" (.21") hole and it requires only one press for around a 45deg cone. For 308 to get a .37" finished hole you can start with 7/32" and requires 4 press steps, or a .27" hole that requires 3 press steps. http://i60.tinypic.com/29vcdb4.jpg Your going to need a 3/4" socket and probably are going to have 2-3 wraps of tape for a tight fit for a base for the freeze plug. Also your going to need a Torx set for about $10 at your AutoParts store. You are going to be crushing the torx sockets into your freeze plug, the star patter when go through the center, you are using the nick to expand and form the plugs. http://i58.tinypic.com/2yo3k1x.jpg For the example of a .16" start hole you will use a T10 first, T25, T27, then T30. Your pretty much going to have to use all your force to with each or the next will not fit, and on the final step another hard crush, stop and measure as needed, I hit .28" on each. http://i58.tinypic.com/259lw6g.jpg For 308 you can start with a .21" hole and use a T27, T30, T40, T45 torx in that order, or use a .27" hole and a T30, T40, T45. For a quicker way to form 223 baffles you can use a .21" hole and a single press with a T27 bit. The cone is a bit shallower this way, here is the single step one: http://i61.tinypic.com/av4x9h.jpg Excellent write up! Thanks for posting. |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 2:36:35 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Here is my baffle forming process for a concave cone baffle from freeze plugs. This method is repeatable for consistency baffle to baffle. Thanks for sharing. |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 5:48:15 PM EDT
[#28]
To get what is in grims diagram
This Came off one of these It is roughly 45deg(give or take a deg or two) |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 6:43:49 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
To get what is in grims diagram This Came off one of these It is roughly 45deg(give or take a deg or two) Your work? Mind explaining your process? |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 7:03:47 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
To get what is in grims diagram This Came off one of these It is roughly 45deg(give or take a deg or two) Now that's thinking outside the box. Good work. |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 8:04:14 PM EDT
[#31]
Damn it guys...how am I going to explain to my wife another form 1 stamp...
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Posted: 10/19/2014 9:12:01 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Damn it guys...how am I going to explain to my wife another form 1 stamp...  |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 9:46:12 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just explain that they're faster than Form 4s and the materials were on sale... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Damn it guys...how am I going to explain to my wife another form 1 stamp... She knows about the form 1 vs form 4 wait times...she already told me one more dollar on NFA purchases, she's leaving me. Ammo on the other hand is ok We already have 3 form 1's SBR's made, 1 form 4 can home, and 2 cans pending...I'm going to have to wait for tax return for even looking at buying something other than ammo.
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Posted: 10/19/2014 9:46:34 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Just explain that they're faster than Form 4s and the materials were on sale... Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Damn it guys...how am I going to explain to my wife another form 1 stamp... |
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Posted: 10/19/2014 9:48:20 PM EDT
[#35]
Anyone know what the OD and ID are on the aluminum C-cell tubes? Trying to figure out if they are narrow enough to clear the sights on a .22 pistol for a .22 Form 1 can build.
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Posted: 10/19/2014 10:45:07 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: To get what is in grims diagram This Came off one of these It is roughly 45deg(give or take a deg or two) Interesting. Any pics of the setup? Curious to see how everything is held in place.
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Posted: 10/20/2014 8:42:30 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryIt is roughly 45deg(give or take a deg or two) Before I settled on the Torx sockets I tried something similar with a flat cone angle, if you start off with similar hole size the hole expands really fast before you can get to a cone shape. If you crush with a ball bearing or ball peen hammer in a vice first, and then use a cone it works better. I think you would have to use a really small starting hole, like a 1/8" but I could not crush this with my vise with a small hole without expanding the plug some first, you need a bigger, better vise than what I have. The Steel Stakes you can get a Lowes in the mason section are more pointed, do not fit in a vice of course, but you can drive them with a mallet into the plugs, the result was very similar to the torx method, except there is some inconsistency between plugs and the holes were not uniform enough so I had to stop before completely formed and drill out the final bore hole. The regular socket extensions with a 1/2" drive and the smallest head work also, but even the smallest was too big for the 5.56 baffles. |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 8:50:11 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Before I settled on the Torx sockets I tried something similar with a flat cone angle, if you start off with similar hole size the hole expands really fast before you can get to a cone shape. Quote HistoryQuoted:
It is roughly 45deg(give or take a deg or two) Before I settled on the Torx sockets I tried something similar with a flat cone angle, if you start off with similar hole size the hole expands really fast before you can get to a cone shape. Doesn't look like a hole was drilled. Just center punch then use the puller. You could then drill/cut the end of the cone to specific size. |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 11:23:18 AM EDT
[#39]
Anyone tried using a NAPA 4003 fuel filter body? Or at least know the I.D. of them?
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Posted: 10/20/2014 11:39:37 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anyone tried using a NAPA 4003 fuel filter body? Or at least know the I.D. of them? Its kind of a big aluminum body and the and the other parts are not available or harder to find. I'm not sure why you would go this route for a legal form 1 build. |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 1:07:24 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Its kind of a big aluminum body and the and the other parts are not available or harder to find. I'm not sure why you would go this route for a legal form 1 build. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Anyone tried using a NAPA 4003 fuel filter body? Or at least know the I.D. of them? Its kind of a big aluminum body and the and the other parts are not available or harder to find. I'm not sure why you would go this route for a legal form 1 build. I saw a video about using the NAPA filter some time ago and have been wondering about it's suitability for a long time. Now that Maglite tubes without the silly button holes are available, though, you are undoubtedly right about them being a better option. |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 1:38:13 PM EDT
[#42]
Added weight estimates and increased the thinnest area to 1.450" OD
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Posted: 10/20/2014 1:39:32 PM EDT
[#43]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Anyone tried using a NAPA 4003 fuel filter body? Or at least know the I.D. of them? Its kind of a big aluminum body and the and the other parts are not available or harder to find. I'm not sure why you would go this route for a legal form 1 build. I saw a video about using the NAPA filter some time ago and have been wondering about it's suitability for a long time. Now that Maglite tubes without the silly button holes are available, though, you are undoubtedly right about them being a better option. |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 2:40:37 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Added weight estimates and increased the thinnest area to 1.450" OD https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5607/15561273896_b8d846aaf1_o.png Nice work. The thinner steel adapter and end will probably be out by time you get the tube and baffles done. |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 4:39:52 PM EDT
[#45]
Not sure if this would work but I found grade 2 titanium tubing @ titanium tubing. They offer different sizes and lengths. Would the .035 wall thickness work?
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Posted: 10/20/2014 4:43:31 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not sure if this would work but I found grade 2 titanium tubing @ titanium tubing. They offer different sizes and lengths. Would the .035 wall thickness work? .035 is definitely too thin if it were steel, but since its titanium..... who knows. Now I dont think you could cut deep enough threads in it to make it compatible with the end caps being offered right now. Plus with an ID of 1.430" you're going to need different freeze plugs. |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 4:51:45 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
.035 is definitely too thin if it were steel, but since its titanium..... who knows. Now I dont think you could cut deep enough threads in it to make it compatible with the end caps being offered right now. Plus with an ID of 1.430" you're going to need different freeze plugs. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Not sure if this would work but I found grade 2 titanium tubing @ titanium tubing. They offer different sizes and lengths. Would the .035 wall thickness work? .035 is definitely too thin if it were steel, but since its titanium..... who knows. Now I dont think you could cut deep enough threads in it to make it compatible with the end caps being offered right now. Plus with an ID of 1.430" you're going to need different freeze plugs. They do have different sizes...I believe a 1.0 OD with a .049 wall...Just throwing it out there for others...they even have titanium bars...titanium mono baffle anyone? |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 4:51:49 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Added weight estimates and increased the thinnest area to 1.450" OD https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5597/15562060886_a2b25ee10b_o.png Unless you absolutely want them, I would ditch the flat baffles on the ends. My understanding is that you will not see a performance increase from them. The flat blast baffle may actually hurt your dB reduction if commercial designs are any indication. Most of the quietest cans these days seem to go straight to cones for the blast baffle and on down the stack. Just something to think about. |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 5:12:01 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Not sure if this would work but I found grade 2 titanium tubing @ titanium tubing. They offer different sizes and lengths. Would the .035 wall thickness work? |
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Posted: 10/20/2014 5:34:17 PM EDT
[#50]
Just received all of my parts, both from SD Tac and Apogee. That SS tube sure feels heavy. Off to the engraver tomorrow....
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