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3/20/2017 5:03:23 PM
Posted: 1/15/2002 8:02:20 PM EDT
I have a new M1 Benelli. I was wondering what is the difference between the new ones and the older ones that keep the new ones form being able to float a shell under the carrier? Is it possible to convert the new ones to be able to do this?
Link Posted: 1/15/2002 8:28:45 PM EDT
Not certain the exact differences, but I do know that the shell carrier CAN be modified to work as the pre-ban. If you post a pic of your post-ban shell carrier, I'll compare it to my pre-ban and let you know. But, anyway, it is only really useful for hunting or if you want to have 7+1 without a shell in the carrier. Also, if your is post ban as I have assumed, I believe that it would be technically illegal to have 5 in te tube, one in the carrier, and one in the chamber (as if anyone will ever check!) with a pistol gripped M1.
Link Posted: 1/16/2002 7:07:19 AM EDT
Here is a picture of my trigger group and carrier. The part with the rectangle around it is the part I suspect, but I don't know. If you can take a look, I would appreciate it.
http://www.netease.net/members/jarrodl/btrigger.jpg
http://www.netease.net/members/jarrodl/bcarrier.jpg
Link Posted: 1/16/2002 7:11:51 AM EDT
Is this a new feature? In '98, I bought a post-ban M1 Tactical that allowed you to float a shell in the carrier.
Link Posted: 1/17/2002 8:39:21 AM EDT
I heard somewhere that they started doing it in 1998.
Link Posted: 1/17/2002 8:46:19 PM EDT
Having a tough time seeing any difference! Let's make sure we are clear on the procedure. I am going to go through everything in simple terms as I am not sure how up you are on the M1's manual of arms. I a not trying to belittle you in any way or insult you abilities!!! :-)

First, EMPTY the gun (you'll load it in a second, so make DAMN sure you are in a safe zone and DON'T TOUCH THE TRIGGER and MAKE SURE THE SAFETY IS ON!!!)

Pull back bolt but DON'T LOAD A ROUND as you usually would. Drop the BOLT release (the button on the right of the reciever). Now, load the tube to capacity. Pull the bolt back BUT NOT ALL THE WAY. IF you pull it back all the way, the shell carrier will try to pop up with the slightest forward movement of the bolt.

Carefully place a shell down into the carrier through the ejection port- you'll have to put in in slightly brass first, because the bolt will be over the back end of the shell. Finally, put another shell where you would normally in the chamber and SLOWLY let the bolt move forward.

The goal is to catch the lower shell up under the bolt and chamber the top shell. The shell on the carrier will prevent the hammer fall from tripping the mag release (the tab above the trigger finger) when fired so as soon as the bolt cycles back and begins it's return stroke, the carrier will rise and feed the lower shell.

Now there will be no shell in the carrier so when you fire it again, so the hammer fall will trip the mag release and a shell will pop into the carrier to be chambered on the next return stroke of the bolt and simultaneously (more or less) reset the mag release to cut off the mag agian until the next cycle.

Potential screw up #1:
Loading the chamber and the mag as usual and hitting the mag release to pop a shell into the carrier. This should give you a chambered round with the next round already in the carrier, but you won't have a full tube.

Potential screw up #2:
Cylcle the bolt back and hit the bolt release. Then, hitting the mag release. This will lock the shell carrier in the down position and prevent loading rounds in the tube. You can hit the bolt release to unlock the shell carrier.

Try the above procedure and let me know if it works for you. If so, then we're done and you're happy. If not, then get me a top down pic of the carrier and a pic looking up into the loading well with the trigger group in place (I'm trying to see what your bolt release bar looks like in the receiver).

Link Posted: 1/18/2002 9:45:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/18/2002 9:46:33 PM EDT by Jrod10mm]
When I put a shell down under the carrier, the bolt won't close. I called Benelli, and they said they started making them that way because of game laws. When I asked about the difference, they didn't know or wouldn't tell. They did say if the part was redesigned. To me that means it can be "unredesigned" anyway.
Stockton here are the pics you requested. I hope you can tell what you are looking for.
http://www.netease.net/members/jarrodl/b1.jpg
http://www.netease.net/members/jarrodl/b2.jpg
http://www.netease.net/members/jarrodl/b3.jpg
Link Posted: 1/18/2002 10:03:20 PM EDT
I'd like to chime in on this topic. My benelli m1s90 "tactical" was purchased last october. I followed stockton's instructions on how to "top off" my m1s90 and have run into the same results as Jrod10mm.
Link Posted: 1/20/2002 2:46:04 PM EDT
I still can't spot the exact difference, but I have narrowed it down to the shell carrier (not bolt carrier). The shell carrier is allowed to tilt upward slightly when the bolt release is pushed. The bolt is able to then slide over the lane in the part that you originally boxed and, in doing so, pushes the shell carrier upward even more to allow the bolt to strip and chamber the shell. When you pll the trigger, the firing pin plunger acts on the shell carrier latch and allows the next shell to shoot out of the magazine onto the shell carrier which then is reset by the width of the shell.

What I can't figure out is the exact sequence that is not allowing the shell to be in the carrier and still let the bolt go forward. The shell must be activating something that reengages the bolt release, but I can't understand how it could do this and not affect normal operation. Send me the top down pick of your SHELL carrier.

I also have a backup plan. My local gunsmith knows what to modify and I have to go to them this week anyway, so worst case is that I'll find out then.
Link Posted: 1/20/2002 2:58:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/20/2002 3:41:58 PM EDT by Fl3gun]
The difference is on the bolt. On the bottom of the bolt there are two “notches” the early models only have one. I have seen them modified with JB weld used to fill in the smaller of the notches. Of course real weld would be a more permanent option but should be left to a pro.

Edit to add:
It is the smaller of the two near the rear of the bolt. i just got mine out of the safe to check it to be safe. just rough up the notch real good, fill it with JB weld and smooth it out when cured. this works. a gun smith friend dragged this info out of Benelli

John
Link Posted: 1/20/2002 3:01:01 PM EDT
This is an interesting topic for me also....
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