So I dumped about $1,000 into a pretty decent homebrew sandblast and paint setup.

I followed the KG application process to a T and I'm still having the coating come off on the high wear parts after about 50 rounds (glock barrel).

Anybody else have any issues ? I contacted KG and they were very responsive but basically said it's my fault and that they couldn't hold a government contract if their product preformed like I claimed.....but all of their suggestions I tried with the same result.

Anybody got any ideas on what could cause premature wearing after 50 rounds?

When you find out, let me know. I finished 3 lowers and have the same issue. The GK was chipping off the first time and I called them about it. They said the part needs to be soaked 2x in acetone, 20 minute soak then into clean acetone for another 10 minutes to remove all the oils.

I blasted the parts and did as they said. The GK stuck, but it wears very fast on points of contact. I'm anodizing with black dye from Caswell on the next lower.

Interesting. They told me something somewhat similar.

My process involves sandblasting, an untrasonic bath, rinse, blow dry. They said I should use MEK instead since I might not get everything.....I tried MEK and got the exact same wear patterns.

I've been looking around at what it could be and cerakote reccomends a gassing out via baking time to draw out any residual oil before the coating itself. I'm going to try that combined with like a 3-4 hour bake in the oven after I spray. If that doesn't do it, I'm thinking I'll be forced to switch over to cerakote

Oven Too hot....

Is that a known issue? Seems odd a coating known for heat durability and dissipation would come off from too much heat. Also I could be over by maybe 20-30 degrees, but not much more-would that cause this type of wear? In the manuals they said it could cure at higher temperatures.


Not trying to argue, just understand.


Thanks!!!!

Try some Norrells moly resin.  I think you will be most impressed.

Never had a problem with GK. Tried to remove some, almost impossible.

I agree for the same price Norrell's Moly Resin is a much better product. KG is "thinned out" with too much solvent for the same product. The Norrell's is less likely to run on application and bakes really hard. Only limit is the color choices.

The KG needs multiple light coats with sufficient drying between coats before baking.

Cerakote is king for a reason!

+1 for Norrells mollyresin!

I've used KG gunkote back when it was "Kal Guard" in rattle cans, and sold to motorcycle shops as a coating for mufflers and crankcases.  That would be about 1984.  It's really good stuff, and I've done many firearms with it, but the fact of the matter is, it's very hard to get the process perfect, where you don't get any wear at all.  On a Glock bbl like that, wear is to be expected, I don't care what they say.  Ditto on AR bolts and pistol frame and slides.  

I would say on any spray and bake coating, there is going to be a certain amount of wear, regardless of what you do.  KG Gun Kote is very good, but it does wear.  I think that's just the nature of the process.  For best results, I blast down to fresh, bare metal, then pre-heat to get any residual oil n stuff, and then spray down with Laquer thinner (or MEK).  Now the purist will say you need to re-blast one more time to remove any residual chemicals.  Which is probably a good idea.  Then pre-heat, or I should say warm, and spray.  Allow to dry and then bake.  I stay in the mid-range of temp, slightly more for steel, slightly less for allum.

If this is bugging you after your investment, you'd probably be better off switching up to Cerakote.  That's where I'm heading myself.  Anecdotal evidence has shown me Cerakote has about twice as much durability as KG.  

I love the guys at KG, and Dura Coat for that matter, but when push comes to shove, Cerakote is the best product out there.

I used KG over 20 some years ago and shot it from a bottle with a compressed air can that screwed on top. Didn't really know what I was doing and don't remember being very careful prepping the surface. It has stuck like nobody's business.

The KG I used lately did not stick very well. Stripping the KG off wasn't all that difficult with an AlOx blast.    

I'm going to black anodize another piece next time and see how it looks. If that doesn't look good I'll try Norrell's Moly Resin. Nice step by step instructions on their website with recommendations of equipment to use.