User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
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Posted: 12/26/2016 11:15:10 PM EDT
[#1]
Cerakote also has an air cure variety. Would be happy to help you with it if you decide not to do it at home. Or can walk you through it.
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Posted: 1/1/2017 10:50:28 PM EDT
[#2]
I've used Alumahyde II on several rifles and like it very much.
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Posted: 1/2/2017 6:19:34 AM EDT
[#3]
I dont see why your frame couldn't handle 250 degree heat for curing. Hell, I think it get that hot in my truck in the summer time.
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Posted: 1/2/2017 10:08:12 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I dont see why your frame couldn't handle 250 degree heat for curing. Hell, I think it get that hot in my truck in the summer time. Quote HistoryQuoted:
I dont see why your frame couldn't handle 250 degree heat for curing. Hell, I think it get that hot in my truck in the summer time. From their FAQ Refinishing my aluminum frame
Is there any problem with my gunsmith refinishing one of your aluminum frames to put a camo or other color finish on it? We strongly recommend you DO NOT REMOVE OR STRIP the finish on the aluminum frame. And even more strongly caution you to not use a finish that requires any heat involved in it's finish process. A number of spray or wet coat finishes, such as Duracoat, are very durable & are fine, applied directly onto the anodized finished your frame is supplied with and in fact the existing anodized finish serves as an excellent primer surface for most if not all of the wet coat finishes. The stainless frames will, however, accept any finish your gunsmith chooses to use. I feel like it should be fine, but the manufacturer went out of their way to say not to do it. 
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Posted: 1/4/2017 3:31:31 PM EDT
[#5]
Sounds like they just don't want anyone risking breaking through the anodization when abrasive blasting.
Although you can still abrasive blast and remove the color, but still leave the anodized layer in tact. The whole heat thing still doesn't make sense for a metal frame. |
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