I'm thinking to fill the engravings on the Fire/Safe area of my DPMS...

I have find some pictures of really good work done using the Lacquer sticks and I have see some where even after cleaning the area really good you can see ghosting on the black finish around the area (not sure if it's that visible or just the camera compensating contrast because of the black of the rifle versus the small white area)... I want to know how do you apply it on your AR? or if it's something to avoid and just stay like it is or maybe there is some alternative to filling engravings.

Thanks!

Seeing the safety selector being vertical rather than horizontal has always worked for me.



 

Have heard Testers model paint and a toothpick to flow into grooves.

Paper towel with laquer(sp?) thinner over the top lightly to clean up if needed.

By "ghosting" I believe you're talking about a light bit of color over run staying around the filled area.  I've had that problem with both paint and Lacquer Stick.  You need to degrease the engraving you're color filling.  But I reapply oil with a Q-Tip or pipe cleaner to the surrounding area right up to the edge of the engraving to reduce the problem.  Also found that paint thinner on a small bit of paper plate will remove excess paint without pulling it out of the filled area.  One swipe only, then get a new piece of paper plate and repeat.

Thanks... I was contemplating the idea of cleaning the area and then applying some oil with a toothpick around the engravings to make easy the cleaning of paint leftovers.

I'm going to practice on the engravings of the magazine that came with the rifle, I'm guessing that the texture on the finish of the receiver it's what makes hard to clean perfectly the paint outside of the engraving.

Lacquer -Stik is what gunsmiths and military armorers use to highlight serial numbers and sight markings.
Once dry, Lacquer-Stik is extremely durable and more or less permanent.

To apply, as above, use something to degrease the lettering and the area around it.  Lacquer thinner, paint thinner, or alcohol and a solvent proof toothbrush works well.

Use a knife to scrap the end of the lacquer-Stik to expose soft, fresh paint and rub it into the lettering, making sure not to leave voids under the paint in the lettering, and making sure the lettering if filled completely.

Allow to dry a few minutes then remove the excess.  To do that, use small dabs of lacquer thinner on paper towel to wipe off the excess.
Change the paper towel often to prevent smearing paint back on the surface.
Be careful not to use too much thinner and be careful not to wipe the paint out of the lettering.
As above, Q-tips and thinner work well to get the "ghosting" of paint off near the lettering.

Allow the paint to dry a couple of hours for best results.
On steel you then need to apply a light layer of lubricant on the area to prevent rusting.
On aluminum you may need to also use some lube to restore the look of the aluminum to match the rest of the rifle.

Once the lacquer-Stik fully dries and hardens it'll last forever unless you accidently wipe or brush it out with a solvent while cleaning the rifle.
If you want to remove it, lacquer thinner and a toothbrush will do it fast.