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Would you upload the Excel file and post a link to it?
Would you provide feedback on the mid-range thermal rifle scopes listed or any in that price range you have used?
I've updated the thread title.
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I've got a calculator that given the inputs of sensor size and FOV and range will give you an idea of what your target will look like pixel wise. It generally tracks with the published max detection ranges I've seen posted. Its just an excel spreadsheet but you can usually find the specs you need to plug in online. Then again most of the time they do post the max detection range.
Otherwise I'd say get the most sensor per buck and decent optical zoom. (this is for a scope right?)
Would you upload the Excel file and post a link to it?
Would you provide feedback on the mid-range thermal rifle scopes listed or any in that price range you have used?
I've updated the thread title.
I don't have a way of hosting anything, you can email me if you want it.
I haven't used any of the scopes on your list, so no comment. I mainly use viewers.
So in very basic terms
and I'm trying to keep this low key since I don't know how technical people are...
Basically in terms of looking at specs, two important ones are:
FOV: i.e. how wide of a view you will have. The smaller the FOV the more "magnified" things will be. You can think of this as feet at 100 yards or whatever, it will have a vertical and horizontal component. It has some relation to overall lens size. Basically for long range, just like a rifle scope you want "zoom" but you have to have to balance that with trying to find a target in the first place. This and thermal lenses are VERY expensive, but optical zoom beats digital zoom hands down.
Detector size: This is how big your detector is, i.e. 320x200. If you multiply these two numbers it gives you the actual number of pixels you have to work with, it doesn't scale by double, a 640x480 detector is significantly larger than a 320x200 (more than 4x the pixels)
What you are looking for is how that field of view gets digitized. So realistically pixels per foot at 100yds, since FOV is an angular measure you can calculate that out at whatever range you want.
Detection criteria.
"Detection"
Generally speaking the "smallest" thing your imager will resolve is something that will look to be about 3-4 pixels (3.5x1), thats your "detection" range. In general this is only really true under ideal circumstances with a nice cool background for your target. Under really ideal circumstances it might be less, but its usually more. Once upon a time I literally saw a deer sized target that was one glowing bright pixel in my imager (verified with NV).
"Identification"
This is where you can sort of tell what something is, i.e. its a dude, its a deer, its super mario. Generally around 20-50 (13x5) pixels to vaguely figure out what something is. Again, this is a human, not this is bob way the hell out there.
"Recognition"
This is theoretically where you can tell "thats bob" ~200 (28x8)+ pixels. The more the better but thats about the minimum.
Obviously the bigger the target the better since that equals more pixels at a given distance.
So if you start doing the math you can see that something like a 160x100 unit like the X150 with a small FOV, will in effect give you the same practical resolution/detection as a Flir PS24 for example which has a detector of 240x120 (or something like that) but with a wider FOV. Or with two units with same size detector, the one with the smaller FOV will give you better "resolution" since its basically digitizing a smaller image. So its not always about detector size only, the lens system has alot to with it.
Other thoughts. I really like manual controls on the pulsar, I own an early X150 that has auto only calibration and settings and while easy to use (literally there is on/off and "brightness" and lens focus) it leaves alot to be desired when trying to fine tune images (since you basically can't).
Also, the bigger the output screen the better, the higher the output res the better (usually this is 2x the detector res, but not always) I also agree if its OLED it will look better than a LCD, but that wouldn't be a deal breaker for me.