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Bravo! you are a pretty good shot with that rifle and the MK II. I'm impressed.
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Quoted:
This hunt was on a night with terrible conditions for thermal. 80% + humidity with standing water. Even though the conditions were less than ideal we were still able to take 10 out of a sounder of 12. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaVnH6jc5PU View Quote Outstanding |
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This hunt was on a night with terrible conditions for thermal. 80% + humidity with standing water. Even though the conditions were less than ideal we were still able to take 10 out of a sounder of 12. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaVnH6jc5PU View Quote Wow that looks like fun! Congrats! JPK |
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Quoted: Quoted: This hunt was on a night with terrible conditions for thermal. 80% + humidity with standing water. Even though the conditions were less than ideal we were still able to take 10 out of a sounder of 12. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaVnH6jc5PU Wow that looks like fun! Congrats! JPK |
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Noticed your voltage on the MK II. Battery extender? How ya liking it?
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Nice! Those little dudes aren't that easy to hit when there on the move going in every direction! Also, Good communication with all your shooters !
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Quoted: Noticed your voltage on the MK II. Battery extender? How ya liking it? View Quote |
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Kudos to Tyler for figuring out how to save zero and the one shot zero method on the Mark 2. Today while using his one shot zero method, I came up with an idea. Zero the scope to rifle number one. Then move the scope to rifle number two. Fire one shot using the same point of aim "handwarmer" but do not adjust the scope. Mark that point of impact with a shell case that has been heated up , like another member here suggested. Then move the scope to riffle number three and repeat the process. This can be done with as many rifles as you want. Snap a picture with the crosshair centered up on the hand warmer. The hand warmer will be zero for rifle number one. All the other hot casings are the zero for the other rifles. You just have to make a sketch and label which other points of impact belong to what rifle. Using a steady rest while taking the pic is necessary. In the pic I saved today, the hand warmer is zero for my 10/22 shooting subsonics. The upper left hand hot shell case is zero for my 300 BLK upper. The upper right hand hot shell case is for my 6.8 SPC upper. Now using Tylers method of unlocking the reticle while viewing the pic, I can move the crosshair from one to the other in a few seconds. I wish the Mark 2 would take pictures at 2X, 4X, or 4X for a little more precision.
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Quoted:
Kudos to Tyler for figuring out how to save zero and the one shot zero method on the Mark 2. Today while using his one shot zero method, I came up with an idea. Zero the scope to rifle number one. Then move the scope to rifle number two. Fire one shot using the same point of aim "handwarmer" but do not adjust the scope. Mark that point of impact with a shell case that has been heated up , like another member here suggested. Then move the scope to riffle number three and repeat the process. This can be done with as many rifles as you want. Snap a picture with the crosshair centered up on the hand warmer. The hand warmer will be zero for rifle number one. All the other hot casings are the zero for the other rifles. You just have to make a sketch and label which other points of impact belong to what rifle. Using a steady rest while taking the pic is necessary. In the pic I saved today, the hand warmer is zero for my 10/22 shooting subsonics. The upper left hand hot shell case is zero for my 300 BLK upper. The upper right hand hot shell case is for my 6.8 SPC upper. Now using Tylers method of unlocking the reticle while viewing the pic, I can move the crosshair from one to the other in a few seconds. I wish the Mark 2 would take pictures at 2X, 4X, or 4X for a little more precision. View Quote I've yet to do do this. Right now, I use the soldering iron across the room. Ice cube on the window to mark make of rifle. Only 300 and 308 for now...but I want to add more. Just need to get each rifle zeroed first. What really needs to happen is IRdefense needs to allow uploads of pictures. So I can download them, label them and then upload them back labeled for each rifle |
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http://www.ultimatenightvision.com/ATN-ThOR-External-Battery-Adapter-p/unvthoradpt.htm
+ IR Hunter = FUN |
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Quoted: Quoted: A stock mounted external battery supply with 15+ hours of battery life and better cold weather resistance is the best option IMHO. GET-THAT-IN-PRODUCTION. N-O-W. |
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Quoted: wait wait wait. explain how IRdefense says an external battery supply will void your warranty and you say it doesn't. Just a little explaining, that's all. I would like a mini USB port to plug in an external battery pack. Something like this on the end of the cap. http://joyetech.us/image/data/e-cigarette/eGo-T-Upgrade-USB-Battery/ego-t-upgrade-usb-battery-n.png View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: wait wait wait. explain how IRdefense says an external battery supply will void your warranty and you say it doesn't. Just a little explaining, that's all. I would like a mini USB port to plug in an external battery pack. Something like this on the end of the cap. http://joyetech.us/image/data/e-cigarette/eGo-T-Upgrade-USB-Battery/ego-t-upgrade-usb-battery-n.png Here is IRD's official statement on this issue. Officially IR Defense only recommends using standard CR123 type batteries. Using rechargeable batteries of any kind is not recommended because improper use can result in damage, explosion and personal injury. This means if you try to power your scope with rechargeable batteries(internal or external) and damage it, they will not cover it. This is a strategic liability statement on IRD's part. IRD is smart, and made the statement to eliminate the possibility of someone using an off brand unprotected rechargeable home brew RCR123A battery resulting in blowing up a scope, or even worse hurting themselves...then blaming it all on IRD. It's all about liability. If IRD wanted you to know that our external battery adapter would void your warranty, then IRD would say UNV's external battery adapter will void your warranty. They have not. They have made a statement to reduce their liability like any well managed business should. This isn't the first time we have manufactured an external power supply for a thermal device, and there are safeguards we put in place to ensure that you can not damage your IR Hunter MK II or IR Patrol with our external power supply. It's not going to blow your scope up. Guaranteed. |
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Can't wait to see what "one individual" or IRdefense has to say in rebuttal. From what Dave at IRDefense has told me, Use of an external battery pack is not recommended and will void your warranty if used AND it damages your electronics. . So, either I lie to Dave (which won't happen) and tell him I have no idea how the electronics are damaged.... or I tell him I used an external battery pack and it got damaged which would in fact void my warranty.
Your battery pack may be sliced bread and never damage a thing, but it is what was stated by IRDefense. They didn't name your external pack nor did they name any other battery pack. They made a generalized statement that rechargables were a no no. I'm not going to play any sort of game with my MK II until I know the facts and what's supported. Not with a scope of this price. Here's,what you should do. Make a statement and back your product that if it damages my scope, you will replace my unit in full, with shipping and applicable taxes if necessary. Then maybe I'll consider. Electronics can and will fail and could create voltage spikes, irratic power. Can even get wet at the connections and short out. What sort of protection does your device give? Don't get me wrong. I'm all for innovation and work arounds... But it seems you are twisting what ir defense says and I assume all the liability. Back your product It would be nice to have rechargable power. I want that. I just am not sure I'll risk it at this point. Yet. I can afford lots of batteries. Not sure I can afford to replace my unit so quickly. I've modfied my game cameras to accept external batteries. They have held up well. But from time to time I have water or condensation in the battery compartment of the external pack. Some day, I might find my camera is inopperable. |
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Officially IR Defense only recommends using standard CR123 type batteries. Using rechargeable batteries of any kind is not recommended because improper use can result in damage, explosion and personal injury.
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Quoted:
Hang tight! We are working as fast as we can to make sure the adapter is rock solid before we send them out to customers. It will be weapon mountable, helmet mountable, and again no matter what you hear it will NOT void your warranty. View Quote For 15 hours and weapon mountable, I don't care about the warranty; I am confident you know enough about batteries and voltage not to foul this up. Seeing your external battery pack working without problems for the ATN units also induces confidence in my decision. Bring it!! |
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Quoted: From what Dave at IRDefense has told me, Use of an external battery pack is not recommended and will void your warranty if used AND it damages your electronics. . So, either I lie to Dave (which won't happen) and tell him I have no idea how the electronics are damaged.... or I tell him I used an external battery pack and it got damaged which would in fact void my warranty. I would give Dave a call back and run over this topic with him again. Not recommended and voiding a warranty are 2 completely different things that should not be confused. Your battery pack may be sliced bread and never damage a thing, but it is what was stated by IRDefense. They didn't name your external pack nor did they name any other battery pack. They made a generalized statement that rechargables were a no no. I'm not going to play any sort of game with my MK II until I know the facts and what's supported. Not with a scope of this price. Consider for a moment that an external adapter does not have to be limited to one type of power source. There is nothing prohibiting the adapter from being powered on AA, CR123(non-rechargeable), USB battery bays, the list goes on. It's really irrelevant until we have the units in stock ready to ship. At that time we will address the details and make sure you and everyone know that no warranties will be voided during the proper use of the product. Here's,what you should do. Make a statement and back your product that if it damages my scope, you will replace my unit in full, with shipping and applicable taxes if necessary. Then maybe I'll consider. Electronics can and will fail and could create voltage spikes, irratic power. Can even get wet at the connections and short out. What sort of protection does your device give? Thanks for the suggestion. Just as with any accessory product we sell, yes we guarantee that it will not damage your scope. Like I said above the details will be released when the product is ready for market. Curcuit protection is a pretty simple thing. So is reverse polarity protection. We have a patent on the design of the adapter that was used for the ThOR and will be used on the IR Defense products. The exact design details are proprietary and fall under ITAR. Don't get me wrong. I'm all for innovation and work arounds... But it seems you are twisting what ir defense says and I assume all the liability. Sorry if it came across that way. Just to be clear UNV will back the product, guarantee it won't damage your scope, and assume liability if your scope is damaged when using the adapter properly. Details will be included with each kit and available online. Back your product Always do! It would be nice to have rechargable power. I want that. I just am not sure I'll risk it at this point. Yet. I can afford lots of batteries. Not sure I can afford to replace my unit so quickly. I've modfied my game cameras to accept external batteries. They have held up well. But from time to time I have water or condensation in the battery compartment of the external pack. Some day, I might find my camera is inopperable. We have worked closely with IRD and their staff to get the exact voltage requirements and other technical details to ensure the power supply works flawlessly with IRD products. View Quote Stay tuned, and thanks for taking the time to comment and give us your honest feedback and opinions! |
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Quoted: Is it on the site yet? View Quote Yes sir! http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_2_646/266429_IR_Hunter_MK_II_and_IR_Patrol_Battery_Extenders.html |
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Got the battery extender, and it does provide a fair amount of battery life. Wow.
Ran the unit all day and three CR123A is a serious improvement. A few notes: 1) The lanyard for the battery cap has to be cut off (not long enough) 2) The lanyard does have to come off, as it's installed tight enough to not come off accidentlally 3) If you were to attempt to get the rubber o-ring off so that you could screw a stretched lanyard off, the o-ring breaks Like a Morton-Thiokol special! SO: The battery extender is really a $200.00 item: You need to purchase monofilament 1-1.6mm line, heat shrink, double copper barrel crimps, and a crimp tool - if you are not a fisherman and don't already have the stuff. You, if you are a fat fingered as I was, have to replace the rubber gasket on the unit. (It appears a dental probe is not good enough to pull the o-ring and roll it off.) |
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The battery lanyard needs to be removed from the scope, along with the battery cap. Simply stretch and peel the lanyard out of the original machined slot on the scope battery housing. Then the battery lanyard needs to be placed in the machined slot on the battery extender. Leave the o-ring on the scope. The battery extender has its own o-ring also.
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Two things:
1) I was quoting the list price, which is supposed to be $99.00 (looking at the receipt....)... Yep, $99.00 at UNV. 2) My MK2 had a coated wire battery lanyard, not a plastic / rubber one, and it did not come off with ease and then broke. Simple instructions would have prevented me doing anything but taking a pair of dikes to the wire (aka cross-cut pliers for those non-military folks out there). Why? Because I ASSumed that the engineers that designed the MK2 would have considered the need to move the battery cap. On Monday the supplies arrive to put in a new lanyard, and I'll call IR Defense and look into picking up a few O-Rings |
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Quoted:
Two things: 1) I was quoting the list price, which is supposed to be $99.00 (looking at the receipt....)... Yep, $99.00 at UNV. 2) My MK2 had a coated wire battery lanyard, not a plastic / rubber one, and it did not come off with ease and then broke. Simple instructions would have prevented me doing anything but taking a pair of dikes to the wire (aka cross-cut pliers for those non-military folks out there). Why? Because I ASSumed that the engineers that designed the MK2 would have considered the need to move the battery cap. On Monday the supplies arrive to put in a new lanyard, and I'll call IR Defense and look into picking up a few O-Rings View Quote Makes sense now |
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Spoke with IR defense about my oops with the O-ring. Scott is sending a replacement.... Very pleasant fellow.
He indicated that when you put a full length wire battery lanyard on the extended battery housing is tends to get caught while you are stalking. So they are still trying to figure out a good solution for that… Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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anyone tried to plug their MK II into goggles like these? 6LYfOnRsZzE
I could see plugging the MK II cable into the av in port and you instantly have aiming and visuals for the thermal. Might take the place of a hand held unit if you are just panning around with the MK II at hip level |
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Quoted: anyone tried to plug their MK II into goggles like these? 6LYfOnRsZzE I could see plugging the MK II cable into the av in port and you instantly have aiming and visuals for the thermal. Might take the place of a hand held unit if you are just panning around with the MK II at hip level View Quote I've done it, but not with a MKII. It was a Tau core held in my hand. This was before I owned a thermal weapon sight and my UAV was broken. Very very difficult to do. It was like walking around with my eyeballs in my hands. My vision was totally disconnected from my inner ear gyros. Couldn't walk straight. When I finally found some in the rice stubble I realized I couldn't easily drop the mess of wires and bring the shotgun to bear. It was unnerving. Killed some pigs anyway. :D |
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I would think that it's not for walking around. Just sitting with your rifle on a shooting stick.. Maybe not such a great idea then
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Quoted: I've done it, but not with a MKII. It was a Tau core held in my hand. This was before I owned a thermal weapon sight and my UAV was broken. Very very difficult to do. It was like walking around with my eyeballs in my hands. My vision was totally disconnected from my inner ear gyros. Couldn't walk straight. When I finally found some in the rice stubble I realized I couldn't easily drop the mess of wires and bring the shotgun to bear. It was unnerving. Killed some pigs anyway. :D https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552650/DSCF5019.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: anyone tried to plug their MK II into goggles like these? 6LYfOnRsZzE I could see plugging the MK II cable into the av in port and you instantly have aiming and visuals for the thermal. Might take the place of a hand held unit if you are just panning around with the MK II at hip level I've done it, but not with a MKII. It was a Tau core held in my hand. This was before I owned a thermal weapon sight and my UAV was broken. Very very difficult to do. It was like walking around with my eyeballs in my hands. My vision was totally disconnected from my inner ear gyros. Couldn't walk straight. When I finally found some in the rice stubble I realized I couldn't easily drop the mess of wires and bring the shotgun to bear. It was unnerving. Killed some pigs anyway. :D https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3552650/DSCF5019.JPG Nice pic |
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I will put together a quick video to demonstrate the on-shot-zero and reticle position recall to explain. Finally got around to it. https://youtu.be/C9CrYKYJlBQ View Quote Tyler, does this method work with the Patrol also? If the Patrol can take photos, this method to keep multiple zeros for different rifles and recall on a pinch should work as well, no? |
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Quoted: Tyler, does this method work with the Patrol also? If the Patrol can take photos, this method to keep multiple zeros for different rifles and recall on a pinch should work as well, no? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I will put together a quick video to demonstrate the on-shot-zero and reticle position recall to explain. Finally got around to it. https://youtu.be/C9CrYKYJlBQ Tyler, does this method work with the Patrol also? If the Patrol can take photos, this method to keep multiple zeros for different rifles and recall on a pinch should work as well, no? |
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So, any thoughts on when the new firmware will be released, and, just as importantly, the software to download the pictures from your Mk2?
GB Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Can anyone who is using a mini dvr with the IR hunter MK II tell me how to get video to work. I think it's 60 hz, reboot, then camera out. My cable is causing the MK II to freeze up and when it's not frozen, the DVR doesn't get a signal. If anyone can help, can you post some instructions that get a mini dvr to work with the MK II?
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Quoted: Can anyone who is using a mini dvr with the IR hunter MK II tell me how to get video to work. I think it's 60 hz, reboot, then camera out. My cable is causing the MK II to freeze up and when it's not frozen, the DVR doesn't get a signal. If anyone can help, can you post some instructions that get a mini dvr to work with the MK II? View Quote - On level 8, make sure you are set to user and not factory. - On level 8, make sure you are set to 60hz. - On level 8, make sure you are set to video out put - ON. Here is my process: First, check to make sure level 8 says USER, not factory. Second, make sure you are on 60hz(The MK II has to be in 60hz, then cycled to retain that frame rate. The video output is only there when in 60hz). Third, make sure level 8 says video out ON, not off(you have to turn the video output on every time you start up the unit). If you still aren't getting a video signal please feel free to call me and we can walk through the process and trouble shoot over the phone. Hope that helps. Tyler |
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Important things to remember when recording video with the MK II: - On level 8, make sure you are set to user and not factory. - On level 8, make sure you are set to 60hz. - On level 8, make sure you are set to video out put - ON. Here is my process:
First, check to make sure level 8 says USER, not factory. Second, make sure you are on 60hz(The MK II has to be in 60hz, then cycled to retain that frame rate. The video output is only there when in 60hz). Third, make sure level 8 says video out ON, not off(you have to turn the video output on every time you start up the unit). If you still aren't getting a video signal please feel free to call me and we can walk through the process and trouble shoot over the phone. Hope that helps. Tyler View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Can anyone who is using a mini dvr with the IR hunter MK II tell me how to get video to work. I think it's 60 hz, reboot, then camera out. My cable is causing the MK II to freeze up and when it's not frozen, the DVR doesn't get a signal. If anyone can help, can you post some instructions that get a mini dvr to work with the MK II? - On level 8, make sure you are set to 60hz. - On level 8, make sure you are set to video out put - ON. Here is my process:
First, check to make sure level 8 says USER, not factory. Second, make sure you are on 60hz(The MK II has to be in 60hz, then cycled to retain that frame rate. The video output is only there when in 60hz). Third, make sure level 8 says video out ON, not off(you have to turn the video output on every time you start up the unit). If you still aren't getting a video signal please feel free to call me and we can walk through the process and trouble shoot over the phone. Hope that helps. Tyler thanks tyler. Do you have any feezing of the MK II whatsoever with the fischer cable plugged in? My menues don't respond. |
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Quoted: thanks tyler. Do you have any feezing of the MK II whatsoever with the fischer cable plugged in? My menues don't respond. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Can anyone who is using a mini dvr with the IR hunter MK II tell me how to get video to work. I think it's 60 hz, reboot, then camera out. My cable is causing the MK II to freeze up and when it's not frozen, the DVR doesn't get a signal. If anyone can help, can you post some instructions that get a mini dvr to work with the MK II? - On level 8, make sure you are set to 60hz. - On level 8, make sure you are set to video out put - ON. Here is my process: First, check to make sure level 8 says USER, not factory. Second, make sure you are on 60hz(The MK II has to be in 60hz, then cycled to retain that frame rate. The video output is only there when in 60hz). Third, make sure level 8 says video out ON, not off(you have to turn the video output on every time you start up the unit). If you still aren't getting a video signal please feel free to call me and we can walk through the process and trouble shoot over the phone. Hope that helps. Tyler thanks tyler. Do you have any feezing of the MK II whatsoever with the fischer cable plugged in? My menues don't respond. Tyler |
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would you mind sending me a phone number via Personal message?
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