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NODS and cammo concelament (Page 1 of 3)
Posted: 5/3/2014 11:13:48 PM EDT
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I made a post about different paints under NOD last week. Well this prompted me to get out and test some stuff and do some research. I spent a few hours outside with friends using NODS to test various new and old school camo/concelament techniques. Got some decent pics so I could share some observations.
For testing we were using a 3rd gen MUM (was also trying all this out with my Armasight SPARK.) the pics were taken with an iPhone. I;ve tried getting decent NOD pics before, I think the small lens of a smart phone makes a big difference. There was ZERO moon, went down about 3 hours before we took these. 1st up, I tested three paints commonly used to paint rifles and other pieces of kit. These are camo stripes on brown cardboard targets. All the paints applied looked blackish, substantially darker than most natural things. I think the AERVOE looks a slight bit better, maybe not enough to make a dif? It is slightly lighter in full light as well. 
Next up lets look at some rifles. Your rifle is very important to conceal because it's black color and distinctive shape are a giveaway. Some paint does a good job in daylight but accomplishes absolutely squat under NODs. Very important to realize. Knowing this I did some old school gound-pounder stuff and got some burlap to wrap the forearm. This made a huge difference as burlap seems to reflect IR light more similarly to natural surfaces. 
What about a whole person? With adjusted eyes and no NODS this person would be invisible, not so with NODs. We're used to thinking we're invisible in darknes, 
If we apply some daylight tricks, like be back in the wood line a bit, we see that the best stuff is not perfect. 
This is pretty close up stuff... moving it out to distance we see that different stuff works far differently. 
CONCLUSIONS: You can still hide from NODs but it makes you have to work in the dark as hard as during the day. Breaking up the silhouette of what you're trying to hide is just as important. Problem, is that some of the same stuff you might use to so that in the day won't reflect the same. You need to figure out what WILL reflect IR/near IR and a manner similar to your local vegetation. I was really pleased with the burlap. I was very impressed with the burlap for this purpose. I'll be testing some other stuff. |
Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. -Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By 1ipschoser:
Interesting, and thanks for posting. The real test though, will be with the application of IR light. Some camo (synthetic materials) glow brightly with no pattern visible at all. I did a lot of stuff with different different NODs, a lot of pics through my 1st gen Armasight SPARK. I wanted to do some comparison pics but couldn't get pics without the IR illuminator and that's not a real comparison. But the stuff I was wearing didn't "glow" compared to natural vegetation - in the pics it would just wash out the background. I'll get a pic up. |
Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. -Thomas Jefferson
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Here is an archived thread about some metal plates painted black, white and green.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_18/404593__ARCHIVED_THREAD____Which_paint_color_is_easier_to_see_when_shooting_steels_with_NV_.html&page=1 |
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Originally Posted By Currahee:
I did a lot of stuff with different different NODs, a lot of pics through my 1st gen Armasight SPARK. I wanted to do some comparison pics but couldn't get pics without the IR illuminator and that's not a real comparison. But the stuff I was wearing didn't "glow" compared to natural vegetation - in the pics it would just wash out the background. I'll get a pic up. Originally Posted By Currahee:
Originally Posted By 1ipschoser:
Interesting, and thanks for posting. The real test though, will be with the application of IR light. Some camo (synthetic materials) glow brightly with no pattern visible at all. I did a lot of stuff with different different NODs, a lot of pics through my 1st gen Armasight SPARK. I wanted to do some comparison pics but couldn't get pics without the IR illuminator and that's not a real comparison. But the stuff I was wearing didn't "glow" compared to natural vegetation - in the pics it would just wash out the background. I'll get a pic up. A while back I was looking at my Mossy Oak rain jacket. The camo pattern is awesome under normal lighting, but when IR was shined on it, the pattern disappeared entirely and the jacket glowed bright. This was the case with several of my camo items and some of my web gear. Interestingly, the cotton items I shined looked great. Their patterns were plainly visible without the glow. |
This is a pic through gen1 + on board (low power) illuminator. The black background is not the NOD, but the camera.
Same rifles gen1 + illuminator, the stuff doesn't "glow" this really shows off the fish eye though 
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Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. -Thomas Jefferson
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+100 Internet points.
I love when people actually go out and find out what works and what doesn't. When fighting an enemy with night vision you have to change tactics. Even star light and certainly moonlight gives you away and you have to stay in the shadows and watch movement. In an urban environment you've limited to how far you can see do to the buildings, walls/fences, vegetation, and lots of man made light. In the desert there's far less vegetation and no man made light - you can observe movement at great distances. |
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Originally Posted By Paul:
+100 Internet points. I love when people actually go out and find out what works and what doesn't. When fighting an enemy with night vision you have to change tactics. Even star light and certainly moonlight gives you away and you have to stay in the shadows and watch movement. In an urban environment you've limited to how far you can see do to the buildings, walls/fences, vegetation, and lots of man made light. In the desert there's far less vegetation and no man made light - you can observe movement at great distances. I've got about a million internet points this weekend, have you seen the AR500 vid? The goal of this is to figure out what works best in the widest variety ow situations. I'm pretty big on sharing info, now that I have figured out a way to get good pics through NOD it will go a lot easier. Eventually there will be a page dedicated to this on my website. What I want to find is what can I apply to the large one color stuff that will break up sil at distance. In the meantime I'll be getting better knowledge about shadows etc. |
Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. -Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By Currahee: I've got about a million internet points this weekend, have you seen the AR500 vid? The goal of this is to figure out what works best in the widest variety ow situations. I'm pretty big on sharing info, now that I have figured out a way to get good pics through NOD it will go a lot easier. Eventually there will be a page dedicated to this on my website. What I want to find is what can I apply to the large one color stuff that will break up sil at distance. In the meantime I'll be getting better knowledge about shadows etc. Originally Posted By Currahee: Originally Posted By Paul: +100 Internet points. I love when people actually go out and find out what works and what doesn't. When fighting an enemy with night vision you have to change tactics. Even star light and certainly moonlight gives you away and you have to stay in the shadows and watch movement. In an urban environment you've limited to how far you can see do to the buildings, walls/fences, vegetation, and lots of man made light. In the desert there's far less vegetation and no man made light - you can observe movement at great distances. I've got about a million internet points this weekend, have you seen the AR500 vid? The goal of this is to figure out what works best in the widest variety ow situations. I'm pretty big on sharing info, now that I have figured out a way to get good pics through NOD it will go a lot easier. Eventually there will be a page dedicated to this on my website. What I want to find is what can I apply to the large one color stuff that will break up sil at distance. In the meantime I'll be getting better knowledge about shadows etc. |
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I just rattle canned a TW LTP. I'll see if I can't get some pictures tonight with my phone and PVS. I've also got the cover for the LTP, so I'll do it with cover on and cover off, also.
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Originally Posted By mikenmaryland:
this coming from someone with bush in the avatar..lol
this coming from someone with bush in the avatar..lol
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Originally Posted By USPcompact:
I just rattle canned a TW LTP. I'll see if I can't get some pictures tonight with my phone and PVS. I've also got the cover for the LTP, so I'll do it with cover on and cover off, also. Make sure you note what kind of rattlecan. As far as pics go, we've found that a smart phone works way better (I think it's the smaller lens.) And you have to have patience. Robert mentioned a trick with a shoebox I'm trying to find it. |
Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. -Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By Currahee:
Make sure you note what kind of rattlecan. As far as pics go, we've found that a smart phone works way better (I think it's the smaller lens.) And you have to have patience. Robert mentioned a trick with a shoebox I'm trying to find it. Originally Posted By Currahee:
Originally Posted By USPcompact:
I just rattle canned a TW LTP. I'll see if I can't get some pictures tonight with my phone and PVS. I've also got the cover for the LTP, so I'll do it with cover on and cover off, also. Make sure you note what kind of rattlecan. As far as pics go, we've found that a smart phone works way better (I think it's the smaller lens.) And you have to have patience. Robert mentioned a trick with a shoebox I'm trying to find it. Yep, will do. I think most of the cans are the Valspar brand from Lowe's, but I do have one Krylon can that I used. I've got a steel plate that I recently cleaned up to TIG weld onto a receiver extension that I'll hit with each color, also. Might not get pictures of this tonight, but I'll hit it with some paint today and get a strip of each color/brand for a direct comparison. |
Originally Posted By mikenmaryland:
this coming from someone with bush in the avatar..lol
this coming from someone with bush in the avatar..lol
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Originally Posted By USPcompact:
Yep, will do. I think most of the cans are the Valspar brand from Lowe's, but I do have one Krylon can that I used. I've got a steel plate that I recently cleaned up to TIG weld onto a receiver extension that I'll hit with each color, also. Might not get pictures of this tonight, but I'll hit it with some paint today and get a strip of each color/brand for a direct comparison. Originally Posted By USPcompact:
Originally Posted By Currahee:
Originally Posted By USPcompact:
I just rattle canned a TW LTP. I'll see if I can't get some pictures tonight with my phone and PVS. I've also got the cover for the LTP, so I'll do it with cover on and cover off, also. Make sure you note what kind of rattlecan. As far as pics go, we've found that a smart phone works way better (I think it's the smaller lens.) And you have to have patience. Robert mentioned a trick with a shoebox I'm trying to find it. Yep, will do. I think most of the cans are the Valspar brand from Lowe's, but I do have one Krylon can that I used. I've got a steel plate that I recently cleaned up to TIG weld onto a receiver extension that I'll hit with each color, also. Might not get pictures of this tonight, but I'll hit it with some paint today and get a strip of each color/brand for a direct comparison. Cool, looking forward to it |
Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. -Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By smaddox:
Does anyone have some of the spray can bed liner laying around? I might. I put the Raptor Liner on my Jeep and the IR signature is much less. The headlights and license plate really stand out, but the paint/bedliner on the Jeep have a very reduced visible sig. |
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Originally Posted By stutzcattle: I might. I put the Raptor Liner on my Jeep and the IR signature is much less. The headlights and license plate really stand out, but the paint/bedliner on the Jeep have a very reduced visible sig. Originally Posted By stutzcattle: Originally Posted By smaddox: Does anyone have some of the spray can bed liner laying around? I might. I put the Raptor Liner on my Jeep and the IR signature is much less. The headlights and license plate really stand out, but the paint/bedliner on the Jeep have a very reduced visible sig. Something else to add to the list, thanks. So far I've got - different colored burlap craft "paint" pens stippled vs non stippled furniture every camo pattern I can get my hand on paint on different surfaces now- spray on bed liner |
Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. -Thomas Jefferson
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I think the spray on bed liner will be a good option because it is already textured. I know rustoleum makes different colors. |
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Originally Posted By dvp18: So it would seem that lighter colors don't stand out quite as much as darker ones, and breaking up your outline is even more important than it is during daylight. I would say that "stand out" and "blend in" are less relevant looking through NODs than we are used to. I have noticed that background, and if background is a slight shadow to the NOD or not, make a difference in whether you stand out. Like moving ten feet over, or the observer moving to a different angle will change what you think is good in to bad. And that makes breaking up the silhouette more important ... both the physical silhouette (like a ghillie suit) and the color silhouette (like a cammo pattern.) A thing to remember is, breaking them up is totally different than in daylight, cause two things that look completely the same can reflect IR totally differently. Obviously texture and fabric are gonna mater more. And we have to bear in mind that these close up pictures only suggest what the stuff will look like at distance. |
Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. -Thomas Jefferson
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Got a couple preliminary pictures for tonight. The rest will come tomorrow night.
Pictures first, then commentary. The plate with three stripes of paint: 
~18" square mild steel (hot rolled, for RocketmanOU) plate, 3/16" thick. Mill scale removed with a 6" Metabo grinder and finished with 120 grit SAIT Ovation+ flap disc. All that's to say the underlying metal is nice and shiny. 
The paint above is all rattlecan Valspar from Lowe's. The plate was masked off using 1" blue painters tape (3M Edgelock, specifically), with a strip being removed, the plate painted and allowed to dry, and then the now painted section was masked off again before proceeding to the next color. Top to bottom the colors are tan (Sagebrush in Valsparese), dark brown (Truffle Hunt...I shit you not), and light green (Leaf Rising...I was always more of a Leif Ericson fan, but whatever). The remaining plate above and below is still covered in tape strips. Now a quick and dirty pic at 12 feet through the TNVPVS-14 + Wilcox amber filter, illumination with a Surefire M1, captured courtesy of an iPotato 5: 
Well....that's interesting. 
More colors and pichers tomorrow. |
Originally Posted By mikenmaryland:
this coming from someone with bush in the avatar..lol
this coming from someone with bush in the avatar..lol
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In! I just ordered some adapter rings to properly mount up my PVS to my SLR. Will be posting up pics as well 
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"We're all new here, kid. The old ones are either dead or in the hospital. What the hell did you expect, a two week pass to Paris? Get in line and do what you're told, or you'll be dead before sunup."
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Originally Posted By USPcompact: Got a couple preliminary pictures for tonight. The rest will come tomorrow night. Pictures first, then commentary. The plate with three stripes of paint: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54/USPcompact/imagejpg1.jpg ~18" square mild steel (hot rolled, for RocketmanOU) plate, 3/16" thick. Mill scale removed with a 6" Metabo grinder and finished with 120 grit SAIT Ovation+ flap disc. All that's to say the underlying metal is nice and shiny. The paint above is all rattlecan Valspar from Lowe's. The plate was masked off using 1" blue painters tape (3M Edgelock, specifically), with a strip being removed, the plate painted and allowed to dry, and then the now painted section was masked off again before proceeding to the next color. Top to bottom the colors are tan (Sagebrush in Valsparese), dark brown (Truffle Hunt...I shit you not), and light green (Leaf Rising...I was always more of a Leif Ericson fan, but whatever). The remaining plate above and below is still covered in tape strips. Now a quick and dirty pic at 12 feet through the TNVPVS-14 + Wilcox amber filter, illumination with a Surefire M1, captured courtesy of an iPotato 5: http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y54/USPcompact/imagejpg1-1.jpg Well....that's interesting. More colors and pichers tomorrow. Can't even tell the difference in the colors, wow. Looking forward to more pics |
Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. -Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By RocketmanOU: In! I just ordered some adapter rings to properly mount up my PVS to my SLR. Will be posting up pics as well I've been curious to see a high end camera properly mated to a good PVS. Mostly I've been ecstatic with the smartphone pics. |
Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. -Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By smaddox:
What ar500 vid? Originally Posted By smaddox:
Originally Posted By Currahee:
Originally Posted By Paul:
+100 Internet points. I love when people actually go out and find out what works and what doesn't. When fighting an enemy with night vision you have to change tactics. Even star light and certainly moonlight gives you away and you have to stay in the shadows and watch movement. In an urban environment you've limited to how far you can see do to the buildings, walls/fences, vegetation, and lots of man made light. In the desert there's far less vegetation and no man made light - you can observe movement at great distances. I've got about a million internet points this weekend, have you seen the AR500 vid? The goal of this is to figure out what works best in the widest variety ow situations. I'm pretty big on sharing info, now that I have figured out a way to get good pics through NOD it will go a lot easier. Eventually there will be a page dedicated to this on my website. What I want to find is what can I apply to the large one color stuff that will break up sil at distance. In the meantime I'll be getting better knowledge about shadows etc. I'd like to see the AR500 video too! |
Got home earlier than I thought. Here's the 4 pants that I took out.
Here they are at just about 8 yards. 
25 yards... 
45 yards... 
Here's the raptor lined Jeep... 
Here's my Deuce... 
And finally here's my rifle on a coyote I shot last winter. Rifle is painted with krylon camo. Tan base with brown and black touches... 
We don't have any trees or foliage around here, just prairie and crop ground broken up with the occasional creek, but that's about 2 miles from my house. |
Alea iacta est
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Red cloth is very hard to see through NV when next to other colors. As usual, it has more to do with movement and tactics than pattern. Here a while back there was a thread that mentioned ghillie suits being hard to detect with thermal/I2. I should have mentioned, there is a huge difference in a store bought ghillie or even a well made clean one, as opposed to one that you have rolled around in the mud and swamp far too much with.
With camo, the dirtier it is, the better it will perform. |
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Stutz, could you describe the "raptpr lined" a little more?And maybe note the difference in the fabric of the different pairs of camo pants. I might ask for that one for the website |
Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. -Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By Currahee:
Stutz, could you describe the "raptpr lined" a little more?And maybe note the difference in the fabric of the different pairs of camo pants. I might ask for that one for the website The Raptor lining is a spray on bedliner that you can buy from parts stores or from Amazon if you're like me. Raptor Bedliner The pants are lined up left to right as: ATACS--65% poly 35% cotton Multicam--65% poly 35% cotton ASAT--100% polyester Choc Chip--50% cotton 50% Nylon I think everything but the ATACS is pretty decent. I put The Torch on them but it washes everything out in the camera. I think I'd have to be 500 yds away before it didn't. Use any pics of mine that you find helpful. I can get some more in some different locations at some point if you want something specific. |
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Originally Posted By stutzcattle: The Raptor lining is a spray on bedliner that you can buy from parts stores or from Amazon if you're like me. Raptor Bedliner The pants are lined up left to right as: ATACS--65% poly 35% cotton Multicam--65% poly 35% cotton ASAT--100% polyester Choc Chip--50% cotton 50% Nylon I think everything but the ATACS is pretty decent. I put The Torch on them but it washes everything out in the camera. I think I'd have to be 500 yds away before it didn't. Use any pics of mine that you find helpful. I can get some more in some different locations at some point if you want something specific. Originally Posted By stutzcattle: Originally Posted By Currahee: Stutz, could you describe the "raptpr lined" a little more?And maybe note the difference in the fabric of the different pairs of camo pants. I might ask for that one for the website The Raptor lining is a spray on bedliner that you can buy from parts stores or from Amazon if you're like me. Raptor Bedliner The pants are lined up left to right as: ATACS--65% poly 35% cotton Multicam--65% poly 35% cotton ASAT--100% polyester Choc Chip--50% cotton 50% Nylon I think everything but the ATACS is pretty decent. I put The Torch on them but it washes everything out in the camera. I think I'd have to be 500 yds away before it didn't. Use any pics of mine that you find helpful. I can get some more in some different locations at some point if you want something specific. I'm thinking its the ASAT (if that is the second from the right) that is the stand out bad one. And I'm wondering if its because it is 100% synthetic. |
Every citizen should be a soldier. This was the case with the Greeks and Romans and must be that of every free state. -Thomas Jefferson
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Originally Posted By Currahee:
I'm thinking its the ASAT (if that is the second from the right) that is the stand out bad one. And I'm wondering if its because it is 100% synthetic. Originally Posted By Currahee:
Originally Posted By stutzcattle:
Originally Posted By Currahee:
Stutz, could you describe the "raptpr lined" a little more?And maybe note the difference in the fabric of the different pairs of camo pants. I might ask for that one for the website The Raptor lining is a spray on bedliner that you can buy from parts stores or from Amazon if you're like me. Raptor Bedliner The pants are lined up left to right as: ATACS--65% poly 35% cotton Multicam--65% poly 35% cotton ASAT--100% polyester Choc Chip--50% cotton 50% Nylon I think everything but the ATACS is pretty decent. I put The Torch on them but it washes everything out in the camera. I think I'd have to be 500 yds away before it didn't. Use any pics of mine that you find helpful. I can get some more in some different locations at some point if you want something specific. I'm thinking its the ASAT (if that is the second from the right) that is the stand out bad one. And I'm wondering if its because it is 100% synthetic. Yep, the ASAT is the glow in the dark stuff. I also think it's because it's synthetic. I wore that shit every day for 12 days while bear hunting in Alaska too. Not like it's new. The funny thing is that the guys I was hunting with said I "just disappeared" up in the clear cuts. They would lose me if I stopped moving. Obviously not the case under NODs. The lesson is, Good camo has to take into account the NV side of the game. Just because you can hide during the day, doesn't mean you can hide at night. That would come as a surprise for most people. |
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Originally Posted By RocketmanOU: http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/RocketmanOU/IMG_20140509_172308_771_zpsf7fe6857.jpg |
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Originally Posted By stutzcattle:
Yep, the ASAT is the glow in the dark stuff. I also think it's because it's synthetic. I wore that shit every day for 12 days while bear hunting in Alaska too. Not like it's new. The funny thing is that the guys I was hunting with said I "just disappeared" up in the clear cuts. They would lose me if I stopped moving. Obviously not the case under NODs. The lesson is, Good camo has to take into account the NV side of the game. Just because you can hide during the day, doesn't mean you can hide at night. That would come as a surprise for most people. Originally Posted By stutzcattle:
Originally Posted By Currahee:
Originally Posted By stutzcattle:
Originally Posted By Currahee:
Stutz, could you describe the "raptpr lined" a little more?And maybe note the difference in the fabric of the different pairs of camo pants. I might ask for that one for the website The Raptor lining is a spray on bedliner that you can buy from parts stores or from Amazon if you're like me. Raptor Bedliner The pants are lined up left to right as: ATACS--65% poly 35% cotton Multicam--65% poly 35% cotton ASAT--100% polyester Choc Chip--50% cotton 50% Nylon I think everything but the ATACS is pretty decent. I put The Torch on them but it washes everything out in the camera. I think I'd have to be 500 yds away before it didn't. Use any pics of mine that you find helpful. I can get some more in some different locations at some point if you want something specific. I'm thinking its the ASAT (if that is the second from the right) that is the stand out bad one. And I'm wondering if its because it is 100% synthetic. Yep, the ASAT is the glow in the dark stuff. I also think it's because it's synthetic. I wore that shit every day for 12 days while bear hunting in Alaska too. Not like it's new. The funny thing is that the guys I was hunting with said I "just disappeared" up in the clear cuts. They would lose me if I stopped moving. Obviously not the case under NODs. The lesson is, Good camo has to take into account the NV side of the game. Just because you can hide during the day, doesn't mean you can hide at night. That would come as a surprise for most people. Could not have said it better myself. We have a hard enough time explaining to some LE agencies, black is the worst cammo at night with or without NODS looking at you. Great post. 
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Originally Posted By smaddox:
That is pretty cool. Where did you pick that up? Originally Posted By smaddox:
Originally Posted By RocketmanOU:
http://i927.photobucket.com/albums/ad111/RocketmanOU/IMG_20140509_172308_771_zpsf7fe6857.jpg The PVS adapter is from TNVC, the step-down ring is from amazon. ETA: TNVC adapter - This is a 2-piece ring that secures around the flange on the eye-side of the PVS, and is held together with a threaded ring. Amazon step-down ring - a standard thread adapter for cameras, pretty cheap. My Sony alpha lenses use a 49mm diameter ring, different lenses will use different diameters. The diameter is listed on the face of the lens. |
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My contribution via Galaxy S4 potato phone....
Took the barn/tractor guns outside with the PVS-14. No extra illum other than the PVS and ambient. 
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Awesome Miker, what kind of paint is on the rifle. That seems to be doing better than anything I have tried |
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Originally Posted By Currahee:
Awesome Miker, what kind of paint is on the rifle. That seems to be doing better than anything I have tried Duracoat. |
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Originally Posted By miker84:
Duracoat. Originally Posted By miker84:
Originally Posted By Currahee:
Awesome Miker, what kind of paint is on the rifle. That seems to be doing better than anything I have tried Duracoat. That's a pretty sweet pattern. Kinda ATACS like. I'm really liking it. |
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Originally Posted By stutzcattle:
That's a pretty sweet pattern. Kinda ATACS like. I'm really liking it. Originally Posted By stutzcattle:
Originally Posted By miker84:
Originally Posted By Currahee:
Awesome Miker, what kind of paint is on the rifle. That seems to be doing better than anything I have tried Duracoat. That's a pretty sweet pattern. Kinda ATACS like. I'm really liking it. Lame attempt at a copperhead pattern I saw in the refinishing forum. I'm not very artistic so it didn't turn out exactly right lol. |
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| No chance to get stuff out tonight, will hope for tomorrow night. I'll be doing some paint coatings (cerakote and some other patterns) as well as some different BDUs and camo material...any other requests? |
"We're all new here, kid. The old ones are either dead or in the hospital. What the hell did you expect, a two week pass to Paris? Get in line and do what you're told, or you'll be dead before sunup."
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Originally Posted By miker84:
My contribution via Galaxy S4 potato phone.... Took the barn/tractor guns outside with the PVS-14. No extra illum other than the PVS and ambient. <a href="http://s588.photobucket.com/user/miker84/media/ARFCOM/20140509_203827_zpslrnqgupf.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/ss328/miker84/ARFCOM/20140509_203827_zpslrnqgupf.jpg</a> <a href="http://s588.photobucket.com/user/miker84/media/ARFCOM/20140509_203353_zpsrah6a9gd.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/ss328/miker84/ARFCOM/20140509_203353_zpsrah6a9gd.jpg</a> <a href="http://s588.photobucket.com/user/miker84/media/ARFCOM/20140509_203700_zps39gqs4fe.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i588.photobucket.com/albums/ss328/miker84/ARFCOM/20140509_203700_zps39gqs4fe.jpg</a> That looks awesome. |
Originally Posted By mikenmaryland:
this coming from someone with bush in the avatar..lol
this coming from someone with bush in the avatar..lol
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Originally Posted By miker84:
Lame attempt at a copperhead pattern I saw in the refinishing forum. I'm not very artistic so it didn't turn out exactly right lol. Originally Posted By miker84:
Originally Posted By stutzcattle:
Originally Posted By miker84:
Originally Posted By Currahee:
Awesome Miker, what kind of paint is on the rifle. That seems to be doing better than anything I have tried Duracoat. That's a pretty sweet pattern. Kinda ATACS like. I'm really liking it. Lame attempt at a copperhead pattern I saw in the refinishing forum. I'm not very artistic so it didn't turn out exactly right lol. It really looks pretty good to me. Would fit in perfect in our area. |
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NODS and cammo concelament (Page 1 of 3)
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