After getting tired of the bloom from the .7mw IR laser from the LaserMax UNI-IR, I started messing around with attempts to put an LDI Neutral Density filter in front of its lens.  Didn't work, and the UNI's window is too close to the top of the picatinny rail for the LDI version to fit right.  So, I went in another direction.  Oh, and I have two LDI ND filters for DBAL-I2 if anyone wants to make an offer.  I got a 12x12" sheet of .06" Kydex for $6.  I used some pieces from bamboo chopsticks to make an extra picatinny blank into a suitable mold, and fashioned a snap-on cover for the UNI.  I also did a cover as a slip on.  Once I got the covers to fit right with the UNI's dimensions, I folded a flap of the Kydex down to cover the UNI's window, and drilled out a hole for the laser to shine through.  I ordered a glass ND8 neutral density filter off eBay for $5 and took it apart and cut it into pieces with a stained glass cutter.  On one of the versions, I used JB plastic weld to secure the filter to the kydex and used JB 5 minute epoxy on the other one.  Time will tell which works better.  After several failures and advancement up the learning curve with the Kydex, this is what I have now.
First pic- the UNI-IR at 12 0'clock and Crimson Trace red visible laser at 6 o'clock.









Including the $4 stained glass cutter, I have about $15 invested in this project, and have enough filter and Kydex to make four or five of them, so I won't cry if one falls off.  I will try to get some through the tube shots this weekend, but from checking it out last night in the backyard, it sure cuts bloom down significantly.  And, if I crank the IR illumination, I can pop or slide off the filter.  An ND8 filter is supposed to block about 88% of the light.  The one I received is labeled as ND8, but it is not as dark as the filter material in the LDI.  It is a lot darker than the ND4 filter I tried before.  

Im in for one! Mine blooms pretty bad until the batteries get low.