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Posted: 12/5/2012 6:09:41 PM EDT
[#1]
The Plossl lenses make fine eyepieces, but consider the magnification. 40mm will make a smaller FOV than would a 25mm - I'd aim at a smaller lens - around 25mm. And check the FOV on the lens as well - the widest as possible is useful. Finally, look to get as much eye relief as you can as well in a lens with a short focal length. Regards David
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FRA
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Posted: 12/6/2012 5:42:52 PM EDT
[#2]
My eye won't come across the eyepiece because of the protection mask I'll be wearing.
I expect the eyepiece beeing at least 2-3 cm from my eye. That's why I thought a bigger lens would get me a better result. And with the front lens beeing 85mm, I should expect about a 2x magnification, wich is not so bad. Am I wrong with all this ? Or, if anyone had a better suggestion to bypass this problem ... |
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Posted: 12/6/2012 6:03:19 PM EDT
[#3]
Originally Posted By bullgasaalh: That sounds about right - though you can also just use a bigger lens at the back - eg, from a 2" telescope eyepiece instead of a 1.25" one - :)My eye won't come across the eyepiece because of the protection mask I'll be wearing. I expect the eyepiece beeing at least 2-3 cm from my eye. That's why I thought a bigger lens would get me a better result. And with the front lens beeing 85mm, I should expect about a 2x magnification, wich is not so bad. Am I wrong with all this ? Or, if anyone had a better suggestion to bypass this problem ... Regards David
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Posted: 12/12/2012 9:26:19 PM EDT
[#4]
I finally got mine put together, have been terrorizing the poor house cats at night
 Nah, just playing with'em.
This thing is great. I ordered from Julian in Jan/Feb but things just kept getting in the way of getting mine together. Thanks David (and others) for all the ideas and tech help. I have another tube, will do it with C-mount 75mm lens. We have so much light pollution (near Houston) I need to take this thing out in the country and really test it out. Thanks guys... 
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FRA
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Posted: 12/14/2012 4:28:16 AM EDT
[#5]
H3T1 arrived, with big F1.5/85 lens
Occular has arrived 1 week ago, I'm now looking for the DIY housing ... 
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/17/2012 8:32:22 PM EDT
[#6]
How did you get the PVS-2 eye piece on the tube, does it thread on? JB weld?
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/17/2012 8:46:57 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Gulfdiver]
[#7]
What size are your aluminum alvin tube? Where do you get them?
I bought the PVS-2 eye piece what from lense will work great with it? Thank you |
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Posted: 12/18/2012 12:49:55 AM EDT
[#8]
Originally Posted By Gulfdiver: What size are your aluminum alvin tube? Where do you get them? I bought the PVS-2 eye piece what from lense will work great with it? Thank you The PVS-2 eyepiece just sits firm against the tube, held in place by the housing. A screw-cover will do it, but since it interfaces to rubber, just assembling under a little pressure is enough :) Regards David
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NY, USA
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Posted: 12/18/2012 1:38:16 PM EDT
[#9]
Originally Posted By Gulfdiver:
What size are your aluminum alvin tube? Where do you get them? I bought the PVS-2 eye piece what from lense will work great with it? Thank you I got the 2.75 inch ID mailing tube off off amazon I used with my scopes. Don't see it listed at the moment. You can use 3 inch PVC from the local big box if you shim the intensifier tube. I have found that either 50mm or 75mm c mount lenses with an aperture of 1.4 or so work very well with the pvs-2 eyepiece. |
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Posted: 12/18/2012 6:21:24 PM EDT
[#10]
Originally Posted By cj7hawk:
Originally Posted By Gulfdiver:
What size are your aluminum alvin tube? Where do you get them? I bought the PVS-2 eye piece what from lense will work great with it? Thank you The PVS-2 eyepiece just sits firm against the tube, held in place by the housing. A screw-cover will do it, but since it interfaces to rubber, just assembling under a little pressure is enough :) Regards David I cut the aluminum body tube about 1/4" longer than needed on the eyepiece end, and then I made a retaining ring out of 2" PVC pipe coupler that was 1/4" long. I drilled a for a small hex key set screw to go through both the body tube and the PVC retainer ring 180 degrees apart. |
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FRA
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Posted: 12/18/2012 7:31:02 PM EDT
[#11]
Does anyone know what type the H3T1 F1.5/85 lens mount is ?
I guess M42, but would prefer to be sure ... Thx |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/18/2012 8:34:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Gulfdiver]
[#12]
Do you so solder in the hot side, how about the ground?
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NY, USA
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Posted: 12/19/2012 11:08:10 AM EDT
[#13]
Originally Posted By Gulfdiver:
Do you so solder in the hot side, how about the ground? I read somewhere not to solder the positive connection as it could cause internal damage- I use a screw to connect the positive lead to the tube. I do solder the negative lead to the tube-there should be some pictures somewhere in this thread showing the metal ring on the tube front that you connect the negative lead to. |
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Posted: 12/19/2012 7:36:55 PM EDT
[#14]
Originally Posted By ACDer: Originally Posted By Gulfdiver: Do you so solder in the hot side, how about the ground? I read somewhere not to solder the positive connection as it could cause internal damage- I use a screw to connect the positive lead to the tube. I do solder the negative lead to the tube-there should be some pictures somewhere in this thread showing the metal ring on the tube front that you connect the negative lead to. And it's pretty easy to put a small screw into as well. If you clean up the ground ring, you can solder a ground lead to it, but keep heat down ( ie, use a VERY hot iron for a very short period so that the heat doesn't go into the metal ) - but you can make a spring that contacts it easily enough. Regards David
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Posted: 12/20/2012 2:07:02 AM EDT
[#15]
Originally Posted By cj7hawk:
Originally Posted By ACDer:
Originally Posted By Gulfdiver:
Do you so solder in the hot side, how about the ground? I read somewhere not to solder the positive connection as it could cause internal damage- I use a screw to connect the positive lead to the tube. I do solder the negative lead to the tube-there should be some pictures somewhere in this thread showing the metal ring on the tube front that you connect the negative lead to. And it's pretty easy to put a small screw into as well. If you clean up the ground ring, you can solder a ground lead to it, but keep heat down ( ie, use a VERY hot iron for a very short period so that the heat doesn't go into the metal ) - but you can make a spring that contacts it easily enough. Regards David
What I did was scrape the contact ring with a razor to get fresh metal, then wiped it with a little acetone on a q-tip to make sure it was degreased. Then I did a little tack-solder with my little Rat-Shack 40W iron. Rather than making the solder do the work, I then put a blister of cyanoacrilate over the solder joint to stress relieve it, then a little dollop of RTV silicone over that to give it a flexible stress relief. It's held up well. I also used fine guage silicone insulated wire from a RC car/plane hobby shop online so the wires were really soft and flexible and I could rout them through the body tubes etc. |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/25/2012 8:21:46 PM EDT
[#16]
Thanks for all the help, I have it up and running great tube no spot.
My next problem is I half to have around seven to eight inches of a air gap to view the picture??? Thanks Merry Christmas |
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Posted: 12/25/2012 10:42:12 PM EDT
[#17]
Originally Posted By Gulfdiver:
Thanks for all the help, I have it up and running great tube no spot. My next problem is I half to have around seven to eight inches of a air gap to view the picture??? Thanks Merry Christmas Ah... you mean the green monochrome "TV" image the tube puts out? You need a magnifying eyepiece. You can use a variety of telescope eyepieces, or even a jewelers loupe magnifier. The perfect solution is an actual AN-PVS2 eyepiece which was made for that tube, and will mate with the rubber rings around the little green screen. http://whatacountry.com/images/products/detail/PVS_EyePiece_2.JPG whatacountry.com might be down for the holidays, or they're overwhelmed by the magazine panic due to Sandy Hook or whatever. |
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UT, USA
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Posted: 1/19/2013 11:12:05 AM EDT
[#18]
I've been reading this over quite a bit and even purchased a few tubes from Anchor Supplies, I expect them to show up sometime in the next week, shipment is delayed due to bad weather.
Anyway, I have several questions for those in the know- Eyepieces- 1- I haven't been able to find much in the way of PVS-2 eyepieces at any price, so I'm leaning towards some of the commercial telescope eyepieces. As I understand it, the 2" will give me a better field of view than the 1.25" assuming the same focal length... So if I get a 2" eyepiece with a 56mm focal length, I will end up with good magnification, eye relief and FOV, correct? 2- What can I do to ensure I have a very long eye relief? 3- How exactly are these mounted? Just drill a hole in the end cap and allow the eyepiece to have a friction fit through the cap? Once installed, there is no reason to move the eyepiece in and out, adjustment should be made by turning the focal adjustment on the eyepiece, right? IOW, I can mount the eyepiece solidly to the endcap so that it can't spin or move in-out, correct? Lens- 1- It looks like a 75mm C Mount lens with good F-stop is going to be about $150 and hard to find at that price. I have looked all over the net and just can't find much for 75mm. Am I looking in the wrong places? 2- What is the practical limitation of the cascade tubes? If the tube can only provide details out to 250yds or so, doesn't the improved magnification of the lens just give better details of what the tube can see? IOW, increased magnification would only give improved details to the same practical distance limits of the tube, or am I completely off base here? If possible, I'd like to see a detail of how the eyepiece is being mounted. Thanks guys, great thread! |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/19/2013 12:20:57 PM EDT
[#19]
Magnification will extend range, but will cut light level due to less area. ie 100cubic ft contains x amount of light, if you zoom in to a 10 cubic ft area you have 1/10 the light. I have a 3x lens and an 780nm IR illuminator and 400 yds is not a problem. With good IR light cascade tube will give you the best image, until you get to later model GENIII 64lp/mm or better tubes. It will blow the 2nd gen and early 3rd gen stuff away, draw back is weight. But once you get gen 3 with ir light it never gets dark
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UT, USA
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Posted: 1/19/2013 12:30:09 PM EDT
[#20]
Originally Posted By Hard_ware:
Magnification will extend range, but will cut light level due to less area. ie 100cubic ft contains x amount of light, if you zoom in to a 10 cubic ft area you have 1/10 the light. I have a 3x lens and an 780nm IR illuminator and 400 yds is not a problem. With good IR light cascade tube will give you the best image, until you get to later model GENIII 64lp/mm or better tubes. It will blow the 2nd gen and early 3rd gen stuff away, draw back is weight. But once you get gen 3 with ir light it never gets dark Thanks, you've answered one of my questions there. I can get as much magnification as I want, but I will likely need IR illumination to see much at distance. I will keep shopping for 75mm lenses, and I think I've even seen some 100mm, but they are even more $$. |
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Posted: 1/20/2013 6:32:45 PM EDT
[#21]
There are inexpensive 50mm 1.4s on ebay.
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MO, USA
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Posted: 1/20/2013 9:25:05 PM EDT
[#22]
Guess I am alittle late for the party here....
My lens are: MC Rokkor, PG, 1 : 1.4, f = 50mm MC, Minolta Celtic, 1 : 2.8, f = 28mm Beck, 1 : 2.8, f = 135mm PVS-2 eyepiece Question with the focusing part. I am using a empy paper towel tube and cut it down to 35mm and was to little. So then I made one at 55mm and it was to large so I started trimming it down little by little until I got really close. The size was like 53mm and then I remembered something along the lines of 50mm lens needs to have 50mm spacing. The sun went down so I just measured it up and cut to 50mm. Turns out it was to short. My question is, if I get the focus right between the lens and eyepiece, then when I get the tube installed, will I be good to go with the focus part with using the same spacer I make? |
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Posted: 1/21/2013 12:49:44 AM EDT
[#23]
Originally Posted By btb601: Guess I am alittle late for the party here.... My lens are: MC Rokkor, PG, 1 : 1.4, f = 50mm MC, Minolta Celtic, 1 : 2.8, f = 28mm Beck, 1 : 2.8, f = 135mm PVS-2 eyepiece Question with the focusing part. I am using a empy paper towel tube and cut it down to 35mm and was to little. So then I made one at 55mm and it was to large so I started trimming it down little by little until I got really close. The size was like 53mm and then I remembered something along the lines of 50mm lens needs to have 50mm spacing. The sun went down so I just measured it up and cut to 50mm. Turns out it was to short. My question is, if I get the focus right between the lens and eyepiece, then when I get the tube installed, will I be good to go with the focus part with using the same spacer I make? Eyepiece ( ocular ) and Objective ( front lens ) focal planes are completely separate - the PVS-2 eyepiece is set for the right focal plane. The front will be between about 40 and 55mm for most SLR camera lenses. Once you have that space correct, it won't change when you put it into the tube. Also, if you flip the mirror out the way and open the shutter, with some old film in place, you can measure the distance from the lens flange to the film and that will tell you exactly how far the lens flange needs to be from the tube input plate surface. Regards David
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Posted: 1/21/2013 5:02:35 PM EDT
[#24]
I have used this adapter for Minolta lenses with good results.
http://fotodioxpro.com/index.php/lens-mount-adapters/other-systems/fotodiox-minolta-md-mc-mount-lens-to-c-mount-1-screw-mount-cine-cctv-camera-body-lens-mount-adapter.html |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 1/21/2013 10:06:34 PM EDT
[#25]
Thanks David for clearing that up for me. I don't know jack about camera and lens. And I also learned the world is upside down.....LOL
I was playing with the PVS-2 eyepiece and noticed that when I adjust the it. It catches some right at the "0" mark in both directions. Is it built that way or I have some repairing to do to my very expensive eyepiece? Feels to me like a bit of gasket or rubber torn and it catches. ACDer, I think my wife would like your user name. Thanks for the tip on that. I was planning on taking the mount off the camera that came with the lens. But I have a hard time destroying something that might still work. AND the little screws are tight little buggers and stripped my phillps. I was thinking about cmounts at my purchasing stage and it made my head swim. My question is, would this cmount let less light into the tube and be less clear? Like I stated before, this is a learning experience for me. What I had seen on youtube, the 35mm lens seemed clearer in the videos. Can't wait to get this thing built. It's a secret project hidden from the wife. We live out the country and we have talked about what critters go bump in the night around here and it would be great to watch. Plus she likes to look at the stars. |
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Posted: 1/21/2013 10:12:35 PM EDT
[#26]
I think a lot of the PVS-2 eyepieces floating around as surplus were either IDF issue, or perhaps even second line US/UK issue during Desert Storm/Iraq I.
There's often a rather fine tan dust on and in them. They're not hard to take apart, clean, and re-lube them. You need some large snap-ring pliers or a pin spanner that can turn the detents on the retainer rings that hold it together. |
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Posted: 1/22/2013 9:09:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Dr_Dickie]
[#27]
Tagging this for a long read, but love the idea of the project.
Okay, I am in. Just ordered the lens,mounting adapter, and tube from starlight. |
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Posted: 1/22/2013 3:22:00 PM EDT
[#28]
BTB601-
I really recommend the c mount. Easy to set up and easy to swap lenses. I not aware of any loss of pwrformance. I used a roker 58mm with the adapter and it worked fine. |
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Posted: 1/24/2013 7:00:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Dr_Dickie]
[#29]
I have a 50 mm F1.4 coming for this project.
How does this look for an ocular? http://www.ebay.com/itm/C-Mount-to-1X-Relay-lens-4-Microscope-Camera-DSLR-16mm-with-2-Eyepiece-adapters-/261159945165?pt=US_Lens_Adapters_Mounts_Tubes&hash=item3cce5883cd |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 1/25/2013 5:08:54 PM EDT
[#30]
Please help me I don’t know what I am doing
I have a PVS-2 eye piece and a 50mm f/1.4 C Mount C-Mount TV Camera Lens that is about .676" away from the tube. It is attached to the cascade tube via a vitamin bottle can and a crap load of electrical tape. I can see up close but over 20ish’ it is fuzzy. What did I do wrong? Thanks |
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Posted: 1/25/2013 7:05:09 PM EDT
[#31]
Originally Posted By Gulfdiver: Please help me I don’t know what I am doing I have a PVS-2 eye piece and a 50mm f/1.4 C Mount C-Mount TV Camera Lens that is about .676" away from the tube. It is attached to the cascade tube via a vitamin bottle can and a crap load of electrical tape. I can see up close but over 20ish’ it is fuzzy. What did I do wrong? Thanks The PVS-2 lens should be physically touching the tube. If so, it's at the right distance and needs to be focussed, but I will assume that if you can see up-close, you have that correct. 20 feet max focus? Means your objective lens is too far from the tube. If it's 20 feet, it's probably only 1mm or about 1/32 of an inch or so too far away. Just more it a little close by trimming whatever you are using as a spacer. Electrical tape is bad too - it lets IR light through which will wash out the image to the point you can't see it under many circumstances. Use black duct tape ( cloth tape ) - it will keep out all the light. That's about it - A little closer will fix it :) Regards David
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Posted: 1/27/2013 7:00:57 AM EDT
[#32]
I have my tube ordered.
I have a 50 mm f1.4 lens coming (c mount with adapter) I have my battery pack set and an aluminum tube coming that I will use. However, since PVS-2 oculars do not seem to be around anymore (I will keep an eye out from them on ebay), is this overkill? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-inch-50mm-Super-Plossl-Telescope-Eyepiece-/400318261931?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d34d3eaab I assume, looking at the original PVS-2 lens, that something of this size is better than a small loupe, but I am not sure. |
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Posted: 1/27/2013 10:21:13 AM EDT
[#33]
You really should find a 25mm eyepiece if possible. The smaller the focal length of the eyepiece, the greater the magnification and FOV.
Though a 50mm lens would make the image look like a piece of green glass :) David
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Posted: 1/27/2013 10:37:01 AM EDT
[#34]
Originally Posted By cj7hawk: You really should find a 25mm eyepiece if possible. The smaller the focal length of the eyepiece, the greater the magnification and FOV. Though a 50mm lens would make the image look like a piece of green glass :) David Thanks David! Can't wait to get the stuff and put this together. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 1/27/2013 7:20:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: wachtelhund]
[#35]
Hi All,
I starting following this thread last year. Recently decided to build one of these unit as a NV spotting scope. Just received my P8079HP tube. Powered it up to test it and it works. Also just bought a Minolta parts camera on EBay for $10.00. Camera was not working, but it has an MD 50mm F1.2 lens in fine condition. I assume I can use the mount on the camera to mount the lens. Have others done this? Dave |
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Posted: 1/27/2013 9:12:56 PM EDT
[#36]
Originally Posted By wachtelhund: Hi All, I starting following this thread last year. Recently decided to build one of these unit as a NV spotting scope. Just received my P8079HP tube. Powered it up to test it and it works. Also just bought a Minolta parts camera on EBay for $10.00. Camera was not working, but it has an MD 50mm F1.2 lens in fine condition. I assume I can use the mount on the camera to mount the lens. Have others done this? Dave That's how I did my original prototype. I just unscrewed it from the camera and used epoxy resin to hold it in place on the end-cap of my housing. I still have that one - it's never broken. It's my "loaner" kit. Regards
David |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 1/28/2013 5:03:47 AM EDT
[#37]
Hi David, I'm assuming the camera lens mount is screwed to the camera body, and I can screw and epoxy the mount to the end cap. Kind of hard since I haven't seen it yet.
As for the eye piece, I have an old 3x9 power rifle scope. Can I use the for an eye piece. I seem to recall you mentioning using a rifle scope. How close would the ocular have to be to the image screen? |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 1/28/2013 2:22:34 PM EDT
[Last Edit: btb601]
[#38]
I got my PVS-2 eyepiece apart. I has tried several times to do it my hand. I ended up cutting 3" off a corner of a clothes hanger. Bent each tip in-wards about 1/8" and it worked like a charm.
I only had canned aerosol lithium grease and was a tad runny for my taste so I used it sparingly. Worked like a charm. As for a dirty lens, mine was 99.9% healthy, clear as a bell. Thanks for the helpful tip ACDer. I have ordered the c-mount and mount it like you did. Also went to the mall and get my battery box at Radio Shack. Turns out they went belly up over a year ago. Guess I need to get out more....LOL |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/28/2013 5:04:31 PM EDT
[#39]
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25mm-Plossl-Eyepiece-1-25-by-High-Point-/221125000181?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337c13bbf5
Will this eyepiece work? Or should I find one that has an adjustable focus? |
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Posted: 1/28/2013 6:20:17 PM EDT
[#40]
Originally Posted By SamsonIMI: http://www.ebay.com/itm/25mm-Plossl-Eyepiece-1-25-by-High-Point-/221125000181?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337c13bbf5 Will this eyepiece work? Or should I find one that has an adjustable focus? That plossl should be fine, but the focal point is inside the tube, so you'll need to cut it down with a hacksaw to expose the focal plane. It will be really close to the lenses. If you want something with a focus, some camera loupe's have it built in - but aren't all that cheap. As for riflescope lenses - they are fine too, but have a long focal length so will reduce zoom. The focal plane is where the crosshair is - so that's how far from the screen it needs to be. Regards David
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/28/2013 10:18:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: SamsonIMI]
[#41]
Originally Posted By cj7hawk:
Originally Posted By SamsonIMI:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25mm-Plossl-Eyepiece-1-25-by-High-Point-/221125000181?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337c13bbf5 Will this eyepiece work? Or should I find one that has an adjustable focus? That plossl should be fine, but the focal point is inside the tube, so you'll need to cut it down with a hacksaw to expose the focal plane. It will be really close to the lenses. If you want something with a focus, some camera loupe's have it built in - but aren't all that cheap. As for riflescope lenses - they are fine too, but have a long focal length so will reduce zoom. The focal plane is where the crosshair is - so that's how far from the screen it needs to be. Regards David Thanks I got lucky and found a dusty pvs-2 eyepiece on ebay today out of Haifa that was labeled as an " Adjustable Focus Eyepiece " . But good to know in case i want to make another one. What would be a decent yet cheap IR laser that wont burn a hole in this puppy? I realize cheap is relative, i just dont want to spend a grand on a weapons sight. On the first page guys were talking about covering a laser with film, or an old floppy. Were they covering just a standard visible laser? or were they toning down the 5mw IR lasers? |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 1/28/2013 11:27:44 PM EDT
[#42]
Originally Posted By cj7hawk:
Originally Posted By SamsonIMI:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25mm-Plossl-Eyepiece-1-25-by-High-Point-/221125000181?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item337c13bbf5 Will this eyepiece work? Or should I find one that has an adjustable focus? That plossl should be fine, but the focal point is inside the tube, so you'll need to cut it down with a hacksaw to expose the focal plane. It will be really close to the lenses. If you want something with a focus, some camera loupe's have it built in - but aren't all that cheap. As for riflescope lenses - they are fine too, but have a long focal length so will reduce zoom. The focal plane is where the crosshair is - so that's how far from the screen it needs to be. Regards David Well I guess the rifle scope lens is out. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 2/1/2013 8:05:17 PM EDT
[#43]
I got around and tested my tube today. Man I hope I have a bad connection and that's possible since I just wiggled the negative wire between the metal ring and the rubber.
Really grainy, with green, white and black dots buzzing around. But I could tell what I am looking at. Just not clear like the pics I seen on here. I was in my walkout basement, almost pitch black except for a few spots. One is a door bell light and a couple of spots the same size leaking in. Just that light lit up the basement around 900 sq ft.. I am in a stall. I bought the Alvin aluminum shipping tube and what I had planned for spacing and lens mounting like I seen here using PVC is not going to work, so scratch plan A. |
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USA
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Posted: 2/4/2013 10:11:04 AM EDT
[Last Edit: lrc]
[#44]
Oh boy, finding this thread is not going to help me in the financial dept...
VERY cool though... Gonna read through this a few times and see if the BIL wants to atempt making one of these. He knows alot about electronics and I know to call him when something electronics/computer related needs fixin'... I'm more of a "Bigger hammer/duct-tape" kinda guy... should be the perfect project for us. 
TAG |
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Posted: 2/4/2013 11:22:52 AM EDT
[#45]
Originally Posted By lrc:
Oh boy, finding this thread is not going to help me in the financial dept...
VERY cool though... Gonna read through this a few times and see if the BIL wants to atempt making one of these. He knows alot about electronics and I know to call him when something electronics/computer related needs fixin'... I'm more of a "Bigger hammer/duct-tape" kinda guy... should be the perfect project for us.
TAG Unless you want to build in a light sensing variable gain circuit into your design with a photosensor, it really is just a positive/negative on-off kind of thing. The tubes used in this thread are completely self contained and just need to be supplied with 6VDC, that's it. It's otherwise all a mechanical build in regard to getting the eyepiece on, and your chosen objective lens mounted at the right focal length and then holding it all together. |
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Posted: 2/4/2013 6:20:17 PM EDT
[#46]
Originally Posted By AJ_Dual: Originally Posted By lrc: Oh boy, finding this thread is not going to help me in the financial dept... VERY cool though... Gonna read through this a few times and see if the BIL wants to atempt making one of these. He knows alot about electronics and I know to call him when something electronics/computer related needs fixin'... I'm more of a "Bigger hammer/duct-tape" kinda guy... should be the perfect project for us. TAG Unless you want to build in a light sensing variable gain circuit into your design with a photosensor, it really is just a positive/negative on-off kind of thing. The tubes used in this thread are completely self contained and just need to be supplied with 6VDC, that's it. It's otherwise all a mechanical build in regard to getting the eyepiece on, and your chosen objective lens mounted at the right focal length and then holding it all together. Regards
David |
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Posted: 2/4/2013 11:01:30 PM EDT
[#47]
I said "After my bolt gun project is finished I'll go back and read that DIY cascade thread".... Shoot this thing is 16 pages now.... guess I better start reading....
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Posted: 2/5/2013 6:57:00 AM EDT
[#48]
Originally Posted By KrazyL: I said "After my bolt gun project is finished I'll go back and read that DIY cascade thread".... Shoot this thing is 16 pages now.... guess I better start reading.... It will cost you money! |
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Posted: 2/19/2013 3:27:33 PM EDT
[#49]
Just got my tube in.
The build begins.  |
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FRA
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Posted: 2/21/2013 6:36:35 PM EDT
[#50]
Spotting scope building on progress ...
Hoyusing will be made of 80mm PVC pipe. Front lens from a cyclop fixed on a PVC cap. I'm tryin' to find the focal length of my ocular eyepiece, and looking for a waterproof-sealed battery box (I plan to use 2 CR123 rechargeable batteries). If anyone has an idea for he battery-box ...
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