User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 6/6/2013 8:03:49 AM EDT
[#1]
For hunting with a caplock in the rain try sealing the nipple with wax or grease. Even a a tight fitting cap will draw water under it and soak your powder. If it does remove your nipple and clean out what you can with a nipple pick and dry it best you can. Then put some powder under the nipple and replace nipple. Try a fresh cap then.
Also make or get a cows knee to protect your lock in bad weather. 
tFBQgFrEUZGQ~~60_1_3086_1.JPG)
Or get a Kap Kover 
http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=7659&osCsid=6d74685b5bddd7ec4b49c49fd9ce6b9b |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/7/2013 11:58:21 AM EDT
[#2]
A wooden ramrod in the rain will swell in the thimbles and be difficult to remove if not properly sealed. Beeswax applied hot so it soaks in is authentic or you can use modern stuff like Thompson's water seal. You can also taper your ramrod so it's not so tight in the thimbles. A synthetic ramrod is also a good option.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/8/2013 12:17:29 PM EDT
[#3]
Here's a neat trick to remove stuck cleaning brush!
http://traditionalmuzzleloadingcheap.com/forum/index.php?topic=15473.0 |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/9/2013 4:25:14 PM EDT
[#4]
Black powder is measured by volume not by weight as with smokeless powder
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/9/2013 9:30:34 PM EDT
[#5]
Good tips. I will throw in my bit of advise:
When looking for that one PERFECT load, the one you load up to go after a trophy buck, don't be shy about thick patching. My hunting load in my .54 uses a .020 patch, and requires a good rap with a rubber mallet on the short starter to get it started down the barrel. This load gives me softball sized groups at 100 yards, which is as good as my eyes can do with open sights at that range. For follow-up shots, I have a load that uses thinner patching for quick loading, and I have tweaked the load to the point where it shoots to the same point of aim with almost as good of accuracy. I would also advise people getting into black powder for the first time that the rifle is only about half the expense. All the various accouterments add up in cost rather quickly. Also, working up a load isn't something you do in two hours at the range the weekend before hunting season starts. If you show up at the range with one blister pack of 15 bullets and say you need to get sighted in and have a few bullets left over for hunting, I'm just going to shake my head at you when you get down to five bullets and finally ask for the help you refused when I offered when you first arrived. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/10/2013 6:38:43 AM EDT
[#6]
Traditional cleaning was often done with tow, a loose fiber wad kinda like twine using a tow worm that attached to the ramrod. I use sweet oil on my guns as whale oil is no longer available. I read about sweet oil in the journal of Meriweather Lewis. They took quite a lot with them on their expedition "for the care and cleaning of guns". I was looking at it at my drugstore and asked the owner if it came in bigger bottles and explained to him what I was doing with it. He let me in on the big secret that sweet oil was the old name for olive oil! So there you have it... Here's more on tow, tow worms and the proper use and procurement:
http://traditionalmuzzleloadingcheap.com/forum/index.php?topic=16013.0 |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/12/2013 8:42:22 AM EDT
[#7]
Never pour powder directly from a horn, flask or can into the bore. It can be ignited by an ember from the previous shot causing the contents of the container in your hand to explode. Use a powder measure to pour your charge into the barrel.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/12/2013 10:23:45 PM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Never pour powder directly from a horn, flask or can into the bore. It can be ignited by an ember from the previous shot causing the contents of the container in your hand to explode. Use a powder measure to pour your charge into the barrel. Which brings up a good point. Buy a good quality powder measure, graduated in 10 or 5 grain increments. I have one that will throw a charge anywhere from 60 to 120 grains, in 10 grain increments. Once I found my favorite load, I cut a deer antler and carefully drilled it out until it threw the charge I wanted, then I used a small carving chisel to mark the size of the charge on the side, and rubbed the carved section with some dye to make it more visible. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/13/2013 8:51:48 AM EDT
[#9]
A little reading on bullet casting...........http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/runningball.html
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/14/2013 5:22:15 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Never pour powder directly from a horn, flask or can into the bore. It can be ignited by an ember from the previous shot causing the contents of the container in your hand to explode. Use a powder measure to pour your charge into the barrel. Likewise, grasp your ram-rod in your fist to seat the ball, never press on it with the flat of your palm. If the powder ignites it will impale your hand with the rod. If you grasp it all it will do (should do) is fling it out of your hand (at high speed). |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/15/2013 2:22:15 PM EDT
[#11]
Many percussion revolvers are shipped with an oversized front sight. It is the intent of the manufacturer that once you settle on your favorite load, that you file the front sight to point of aim. In my case, my Pietta 1858 Sheriff's model was shooting 8" low at 50'. I took .07 off the front sight to put me right on target. The windage was dead on from the factory. It is best to do this at the range. If you start with a dremel, as I did, leave it a few .00 long and use an india stone to finish to final height, shooting and stoning as you go. Removing a small amount of material makes a huge difference in point of impact.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/15/2013 5:44:56 PM EDT
[#12]
Just because your powder got wet doesn't mean its ruined. A wet charge can be dried out in a dry environment and shot out. A big dessicant pack or a packet of instant rice can be plastic wrapped around the vent or nipple hole and left in place.
Wet powder from a horn can be spread out on newspaper and dried in the sun. Make sure the humidity is low or put in a big box with a dehumidifier running. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/16/2013 5:46:44 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Just because your powder got wet doesn't mean its ruined. A wet charge can be dried out in a dry environment and shot out. A big dessicant pack or a packet of instant rice can be plastic wrapped around the vent or nipple hole and left in place. Wet powder from a horn can be spread out on newspaper and dried in the sun. Make sure the humidity is low or put in a big box with a dehumidifier running. Or just put it back in the horn.... "Though we drew our loads every morning, from a fear of the dampness of the atmosphere, yet the ball and powder were never lost. Our bullet screws brought the first out with ease, and it was recast— the latter was carefully returned to the horn, where, if moist, it soon became dry." AN ACCURATE AND INTERESTING ACCOUNT OF THE HARDSHIPS AND SUFFERINGS OF THAT • BAND OF HEROES, WHO TRAVERSED THE WILDERNESS IN THE CAMPAIGN AGAINST QUEBEC IN 1775, BY JOHN JOSEPH HENRY, ESQ. Henry was a member of Morgan's Riflemen and a trained gunsmith |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/17/2013 11:00:38 AM EDT
[#14]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/19/2013 9:27:13 AM EDT
[#15]
For the matchlock folks.....................
http://www.engerisser.de/Bewaffnung/weapons/Matchlockmusket.html http://www.metamuseum.com/us%5CSlowMatch/Index.cfm?F=E43 |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/21/2013 4:30:30 PM EDT
[#16]
Neat video of a flintlock in slow motion;
http://www.blackpowdermag.com/featured-articles/ultra-high-speed-flintlock-movie.php |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/22/2013 5:44:27 AM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Neat video of a flintlock in slow motion; http://www.blackpowdermag.com/featured-articles/ultra-high-speed-flintlock-movie.php That's really, really cool. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/22/2013 7:09:51 AM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Neat video of a flintlock in slow motion; http://www.blackpowdermag.com/featured-articles/ultra-high-speed-flintlock-movie.php That's really, really cool. I was really surprised at the 2nd video where the locks are upside down. |
|
|
|
Posted: 6/24/2013 6:18:28 PM EDT
[#19]
To start a campfire afield, dump your priming powder and plug the vent with a tight fitting birds feather. Place some charcloth in the pan and shut your frizzen. Ready your birdsnest of grass and twigs as normal. When your tinder is ready cock the lock and fire to spark the charcloth. When it catches put the glowing charcloth in your tinder and blow it until you get fire.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 6/27/2013 6:03:58 AM EDT
[#20]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/2/2013 5:39:27 AM EDT
[#21]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/2/2013 5:42:39 AM EDT
[#22]
Ballistol.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/2/2013 7:00:51 AM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
To start a campfire afield, dump your priming powder and plug the vent with a tight fitting birds feather. Place some charcloth in the pan and shut your frizzen. Ready your birdsnest of grass and twigs as normal. When your tinder is ready cock the lock and fire to spark the charcloth. When it catches put the glowing charcloth in your tinder and blow it until you get fire. Ive done that before, but I pulled the lock out of the gun instead of trying to plug the touch hole. Ive fired a flinter without prime before, just from snapping the lock. But it was with a Brown Bess that was assembled about 1974, and the touchhole shows 30plus years of shooting...... |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/7/2013 1:56:17 PM EDT
[#24]
For the flintlock, I use a calf's knee that I made from some buckskin (heavily greased) in moist weather. I check the priming every 30 minutes and make sure it's not starting to cake and replace it at least every 2 hrs. Fill the priming pan 2/3rds full. Always pick the touch-hole before priming. I've found it shoots best if all the priming is at the outside of the pan.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/13/2013 8:26:04 AM EDT
[#25]
Soak your wooden ramrod in kerosene for a few days. It will help prevent breakage. A good coat fo parrafin or beeswax will help seal out water and keep it from sticking in the thimbles
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/13/2013 8:35:07 AM EDT
[#26]
I think the kerosene soaking is a good thing, and recommend it. But I do not think it makes a rod stronger, but it will for sure keep a rod from swelling when it get dumped into the bottom of the river in a canoe wreck and pulling the soaked charge is a very important thing to do for continued survival.....
|
|
|
|
Posted: 7/13/2013 8:21:42 PM EDT
[#27]
I always taper and soak my ramrods in a 50/50 mix of turpentine and linseed oil, after a couple weeks you can almost bend a full circle with it.
Don't use your ramrod as a cleaning rod. Grip the rod as a fist as mentioned. Best cleaning solvent for black powder is hot soapy water, attach a length of rubber hose to the nipple and immerse the end in a pan of hot soapy water. With a wet and snug patch on a cleaning rod pump the soapy mix into the bore and let it soak in the bore for a minute. A few passes of a brush and a couple more pumps of the patch, rinse the bore with as hot of water as you can stand. It will flash dry then oil well. Before you fire a brand new barrel burnish the bore with 0000 steel wool wrapped around an old bore brush. Don't burnish the muzzle/crown area, let it shoot in. You will be amazed at how much easier and smoother the rifle is to load and clean. Polish the muzzle face of the barrel, your patch knife will cut much better. Check the tumbler, sear and back of the lockplate for contact, stone polish as needed. Check contact points of the mainspring, polish as needed. Make sure your drum/snail is drilled for a clean out screw, untraditional but a blessing when you ram a ball without powder. Make sure your patch material is 100% natural fibers, melted synthetics suck. Don't get your patch too wet, it can foul your powder. |
|
|
|
Posted: 7/31/2013 11:56:45 AM EDT
[#28]
Wasp and hornet nests make good wadding in a pinch.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/12/2013 2:41:46 AM EDT
[#29]
Can't believe this hasn't been posted yet, or I missed it. My old friend taught me to mark the ram rod with a small notch where it lines up with the muzzle for your load. that way you always know if you have set your ball all the way down and there is no gap between the powder and patched ball.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 8/17/2013 9:59:27 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Can't believe this hasn't been posted yet, or I missed it. My old friend taught me to mark the ram rod with a small notch where it lines up with the muzzle for your load. that way you always know if you have set your ball all the way down and there is no gap between the powder and patched ball. I can't believe I forgot that one! Something else to have is a nipple pick to clean out fouling or debris from a dud cap. If your shop doesn't have one, check your local welding supply for a smaller gauge tip cleaner. Take your nipple along to get the right size. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/24/2013 5:55:49 PM EDT
[#31]
Make sure you oil all exposed metal surfaces well and continually check the rifle while in storage at first to make sure you don't have corrosion issues with your oiling and storage protocols.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/17/2013 4:25:00 PM EDT
[#32]
bumpantag
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/26/2013 8:30:54 AM EDT
[#33]
Thanks for all the great info.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/26/2013 9:15:24 AM EDT
[#34]
I have a .50 Hawkin flintlock that I built from a T/C kit with I was a teenager (35 years ago or so). My mom's then boyfriend helped me and provided all of the basics to shoot it (powder, balls, powder measure, etc.), but I never bothered to aquire my own basic supplies. I'd like to get it out and shoot, but want to find quality acceeories so I can do so safely. All I have is the rifle, old flint and the ramrod, nothing else. Where do I (re)start?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/26/2013 2:37:47 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have a .50 Hawkin flintlock that I built from a T/C kit with I was a teenager (35 years ago or so). My mom's then boyfriend helped me and provided all of the basics to shoot it (powder, balls, powder measure, etc.), but I never bothered to aquire my own basic supplies. I'd like to get it out and shoot, but want to find quality acceeories so I can do so safely. All I have is the rifle, old flint and the ramrod, nothing else. Where do I (re)start? Where in Ohio? If you are near Lodi, go to the Log Cabin shop, tell them what you have and they can easily tell you what you need. At minimum, you need .490 round balls, patches, short starter, flints, powder flask, measure and probably a primer measure. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/27/2013 4:22:24 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Where in Ohio? If you are near Lodi, go to the Log Cabin shop, tell them what you have and they can easily tell you what you need. At minimum, you need .490 round balls, patches, short starter, flints, powder flask, measure and probably a primer measure. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I have a .50 Hawkin flintlock that I built from a T/C kit with I was a teenager (35 years ago or so). My mom's then boyfriend helped me and provided all of the basics to shoot it (powder, balls, powder measure, etc.), but I never bothered to aquire my own basic supplies. I'd like to get it out and shoot, but want to find quality acceeories so I can do so safely. All I have is the rifle, old flint and the ramrod, nothing else. Where do I (re)start? Where in Ohio? If you are near Lodi, go to the Log Cabin shop, tell them what you have and they can easily tell you what you need. At minimum, you need .490 round balls, patches, short starter, flints, powder flask, measure and probably a primer measure. I am in Loveland (SW Ohio), but travel up to my companies HQ in Cleveland often. Great idea, I'll look them up. Thanks. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/27/2013 4:55:21 PM EDT
[#37]
Shotar has the list pretty well covered, I'd get some lube too. Look around your sporting goods stores for closeout on starter kits.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/8/2014 6:25:23 PM EDT
[#38]
I have a question. I've only hunted with inlines and speed loaders, but am considering going more traditional, with a flask, PBR, loading block, etc. Can all of this stuff be put on a lanyard like speedloaders and short starters are? If not, how do you guys carry the tools when hunting?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/8/2014 6:46:20 PM EDT
[#39]
There are flasks with lanyard loops, I use a horn. Anything you can get to hang from a lanyard can be carried that way.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/9/2014 12:20:03 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have a question. I've only hunted with inlines and speed loaders, but am considering going more traditional, with a flask, PBR, loading block, etc. Can all of this stuff be put on a lanyard like speedloaders and short starters are? If not, how do you guys carry the tools when hunting? I have a small leather "possibles bag". Hangs across my body and down on my right side. It contains: short starter, extra caps, extra nipple and wrench, nipple pick, balls, patches, powder measure, patch worm, ball remover, and reloads (in those plastic reload holder things). I also carry a powder horn on its own strap. If it is a longer trip, or may take me on a long walk, I use a modern daypack with compartmentalized outer pockets. My current one is made by Remington and is camo. Not the highest end, but it gets the job done. I can put water in that as well as a hatchet, extra clothes, reading material, butt out, tobacco and pipe, flint and steel fire starter (with char cloths and tinder, all kept in one of those larger round shoe polish cans.), compass, etc. ETA: I will have to say, this thread is inspiring me to dust off the old Hawken and take it hunting again. It was fun, and I've been stuck in the inline thing for a few years. Not very satisfied with my current inline rifle. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/9/2014 12:56:27 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have a question. I've only hunted with inlines and speed loaders, but am considering going more traditional, with a flask, PBR, loading block, etc. Can all of this stuff be put on a lanyard like speedloaders and short starters are? If not, how do you guys carry the tools when hunting? A Shot pouch...... 
 Bowtie added for PERSEC......
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/9/2014 2:33:24 PM EDT
[#42]
Sites for gun kits? Been to Dixie and TOW. There was another, primarily stock site that had kits too, but I lost the link.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 1/23/2014 11:03:58 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Sites for gun kits? Been to Dixie and TOW. There was another, primarily stock site that had kits too, but I lost the link. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/23/2014 3:09:28 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Sites for gun kits? Been to Dixie and TOW. There was another, primarily stock site that had kits too, but I lost the link. http://trackofthewolf.com http://longrifles-pr.com http://redaviscompany.com http://www.avsia.com/tvm/ http://www.muzzleloaderbuilderssupply.com/ http://knobmountainmuzzleloading.com/ http://www.sittingfoxmuzzleloaders.com/intro.php http://www.jklongrifles.com/ Thanks! Are these guys any good? http://www.dunlap-woodcrafts.com/ComponentSets/TransitionIsaacHainesRifle.php |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/27/2014 5:26:49 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am in Loveland (SW Ohio), but travel up to my companies HQ in Cleveland often. Great idea, I'll look them up. Thanks. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I have a .50 Hawkin flintlock that I built from a T/C kit with I was a teenager (35 years ago or so). My mom's then boyfriend helped me and provided all of the basics to shoot it (powder, balls, powder measure, etc.), but I never bothered to aquire my own basic supplies. I'd like to get it out and shoot, but want to find quality acceeories so I can do so safely. All I have is the rifle, old flint and the ramrod, nothing else. Where do I (re)start? Where in Ohio? If you are near Lodi, go to the Log Cabin shop, tell them what you have and they can easily tell you what you need. At minimum, you need .490 round balls, patches, short starter, flints, powder flask, measure and probably a primer measure. I am in Loveland (SW Ohio), but travel up to my companies HQ in Cleveland often. Great idea, I'll look them up. Thanks. I stopped in Friday afternoon and what a store they have. I'm going to bring my rifle with me on my next trip and buy what I need. The museum is worth the trip alone. Many thanks. |
|
|
|
Posted: 1/30/2014 4:55:06 PM EDT
[#46]
Do not use a penetrating oil when oiling the bore. It will penetrate the threads in the breech blockk then wick into your powder charge when hunting. Ask me how I know. Otherwise if you store the gun upright, do it muzzle down to drain any debris. If not already said in all those links, use the hottest water you can handle when cleaning. Run a few primers thru the gun before loading. Thats all I have.
|
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
