So I've been avoiding it for years, saying I wasn't going to do it but then the opportunity arose and I found myself to be the new proud owner of a 2011 production Ruger 10/22. Had been sticking to my Remington 514 for awhile but got a good deal on a trade rifle for my Ruger 10/22 and a nice supply of ammo to go forth and enjoy it with.

I've enjoyed the rifle so far, fairly accurate to start. It came with a Nichols Scope 3-9x40 on it. I did some research and scope brand is no longer produced from what I found but this one works well and I like the look of it on the rifle.

I'd like to do some slight modocations to the rifle so it appears to be a stock 10/22 but is actually a sleeper tack driver. I know next to nothing about 10/22s so all help is greatly appreciative

<Hasn't personally modded a 10/22



From the bits I've read, I'd bet you could get a "match" grade barrel in the standard contour. I'm not sure if getting a bolt with tighter headspace would be of much benefit. There's a mod to reduce the vertical movement of the firing pin which should provide more consistent strikes and ignition. Then bed the action and freefloat the barrel or bed the barrel channel - others will provide the benefits of each. Lightly polish the trigger sears.

Go over to RFC and look up the super stock forum and you will have all the info you need.

In short you can have your barrel re-crowned and chambered better by a few different members (Que did mine) or you can pick up a barrel by Feddersen (sp?) or Kidd and then upgrade the internals

If you have a plastic trigger housing the best way is a Kidd trigger kit (~100.00)

You can pillar and bed the action and do a whole bunch more that I don't have time or expertise to write.

Hope this helps

First mod in my book is to improve the crappy trigger. Technically doesn't make the gun more accurate but does allow you to shoot it better

Not sure if your gun is new or used but after it is broken in or if you radius the bolt (see rimfirecentral ) it will likely handle standard velocity ammo and that will give better accuracy. High velocity for hunting but standard velocity across the board shoots tighter groups by quite a bit.

Any of the tight chamber aftermarket barrels will be more accurate but many tend to have reliability issues.

All of the high dollar mods can help but with anything but pure benchrest shooting a fairly decent trigger , decent ammo and practice will make all the difference in the world.

Send the barrel and bolt to Que. He will re re-chamber the factory barrel and from what I've heard from many people, it makes a very significant improvement in accuracy. The bolt will have the proper headspace set, the firing pin will be "pinned" to prevent it from rising up in the bolt channel, it will also be re profiled for better firing pin strikes, the extractor gets "tuned" and the rear radius of the bolt changed to allow smoother cycling and increased reliability with subsonic ammo.

Que is an incredibly nice guy and very professional when it comes to his services. He gets them done in a timely fashion and keeps you informed as to the progress. His prices are very reasonable as well.

Ques barrel rework
Ques bolt service

I would also get the trigger worked on. If you are dead set on keeping your rifle completely stock, I'd send your trigger to Brimstone gunsmithing. He offers different levels of service and I've only heard very positive reviews of his work. If you don't mind changing the trigger itself to an aftermarket, I'd get a KIDD trigger job kit. Short of a complete aftermarket assembly, this is probably the route I'd go. Install is very easy and the trigger is amazing..well worth the $$

Brimstone Gunsmithing
KIDD trigger job kit

Do these three upgrades and you will have a accurate and reliable 10/22 that will look like a stock rifle...

This sounds helpful.  Id love to have a 10/22 some day.  I have a Remington 597 for now.

I had my trigger and bolt done by http://ricksgunsmithing.com/service.html

1.9lb trigger with Volquartsen parts.  Breaks clean, it's probably my easiest to shoot gun.

He also trued the bolt and jeweled it.  With the stock barrel I've shot a ~.33" 10 round group at 50 yards with cheap ammo.  It has been supremely reliable for over 3000 rounds.

The gun looked essentially stock (it would look 100% stock if you didn't jewel the bolt).  I painted and modified the stock to fit my hand better and painted.  It looks less stock now but it doesn't look that fancy.

All of the mods cost me ~$85 including shipping and can of spray paint.

I agree with all thats been said. I feel doing the trigger first is the best move.its amazing how much a trigger can help you and the rifle.

I know you want a stock look but i put a jard trigger assembly in mine and i love it, nice clean let off and i personaly love the fact that they move the safety behind the trigger guard. I can get into position and with no effort easily slide the safety off without losing my position.

Needless to say once you start you find it hard to stop. Mine now sports a tack sol. barrel, jwh comp bolt,  a used oem reworked stock. All i need now is another receiver and i can totally put my original 83 ' ruger back together again !

I think with the 10-22 you bed the barrel and float the action.

 

If you like to work on things yourself, google the "bobby pin trigger".  I have factory triggers set up this way with a little polishing giving WAY better results than my Voljquarsen or Power Custom drop-ins.

No, you don't bed the barrel.  Check out rimfire central. There isn't much those guys haven't tried.

I've been looking at getting the trigger kit from Kidd, along with their extended charging handle.  Want to make subtle changes that will improve function and accuracy of the rifle, while keeping the original look of the rifle for the time being

Have already joined rimefire, there is a ton of knowledge over there!