Planning to by a weaver scope......what rings do I need  I figure 1in rings correct?  but see there are different heights......I would like a set of rings were I could still use the ironsights when mounted....but not give me a screwed up cheek rest.....suggestions?


http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=183610

Use standard rings and scope or iron sights, don't try to mix them up to have your cake and eat it too.

I like Millet 1" rimfire tip off rings, medium height will fit the vast majority of scopes anybody might consider putting on a Marlin semi auto.
Because Marlin 60/795 ring grooves can vary quite a bit dimensionally, don't use a ring with a fixed block on one side and a tightener block on the other.
Choose a ring which allows adjustment of both sides of the ring blocks.
Millet rings are designed this way.

I gave up on a scope for my Model 60, to get a decent one mounted to the rifle would cost more than the rifle, goofy in my book.
I instead opted to use an old Lyman Target Foolproof rimfire receiver sight on mine and got lucky.
It clamped down correctly.
Now I have to try a few front sight blades to get it to regulate the way I want it to.
I also installed a Williams shorty ramp on the front and it looks like a narrow .290" or .312" high blade will be the ticket.
The .260" I have on it now is too short.HTH

Given that the 795 has tendencies to allow "walking" due to dovetail rail variances, I suggest this scope mount

This is what I use on my .22 rifles.
Notice the cost of just the rings verses the cost of the complete rifle however.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=9078/Product/ANGLE_LOC_trade___22_SCOPE_RINGS

If you are not gonna lap your rings these are a good choice in medium.
They are not cheap ,but if your mount and scope is not sound,save your money and shoot irons.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/burris-airgun-rimfire-signature-1-rifle-scope-mount-rings.html

I had bad "walking" problem with the rings supplied with my cheap Barska scope. Cure was taking a Weaver TO-10 top mount base and grinding/filling the bottom side until I had a light drive fit onto the 795 tipoff grooves, then setscrewing in place and using standard weaver type rings (about $18 for rings and the TO-10 mount, $20 for scope). Fingernail polish seal shows no movement after 100 rounds. Good enough for a bronze in its first CMP Sporterrifle outing. Only bummer is the mount is a little thick to use the irons with scope removed. And the trigger is improving with use so may not bother with a trigger job- not nearly as "creepy".

Man the trigger on my Model 60 is horrible!
Worst of any .22 rifle I own!
Hopefully it settles in and begins to lighten up a bit with more use because I have handled and worked on more than a few Marlins with much better trigger pullls!

Since I bought mine as an inexpensive general use rifle, I am trying to avoid putting any more money in the gun than the sum of its worth.

Do this and you can bring your trigger to somewhere between 2.5 - 4 lbs, with minimal creep. The fix involves $0 and about 20 minutes of your time.

I like these....gives me the ability to take off fast if need be............Is medium the right height for the 795? to allow for proper cheek weld

I used a leaper UTG riser to keep my scope from walking off the back. There is a set srew in the top - i ever so slightly drilled a dimple in the top of the action & blue lock-tited all the screws. I also replaced the trigger spring with a 3.5" floppy spring (5 minute job) to help the trigger pull. Then mouned some cheap rings that came off a Savage combo that came with a Simmons scope.

Here is a link to the mods I did. Mine is the folder with the Tan paint job. http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/showthread.php?t=77832

I have put the factory stock back on the 795 - the cheek weld sucks on the folder - It looks kinda cool & kids love it. The Nikon was overkill & I've since put a Leaper fixed 6X ($ 25) scope on it. I have about $ 135 bucks in this after rebate.