So I broke my ejector on my first 1911 build. I am new to the 1911 platform and wanted to learn it, so PSA had a stripped frame on sale... 120 bucks for the frame, 20 transfer, and then a 9mm parts kit for 360(yes I like 9mm, and it is for the fiancé anyway so deal with it). So after following all the information online (some great build tutorials out there) I got all the stuff together like it was supposed to be(upper hasn't been installed yet), and I tested the function and safety works, hammer falls like it is supposed to and my ejector broke off at the back lug. The metal appears to be really crappy quality(RIA kit), so I drove the pin back out that held the front part in and removed the broken ejector but ive got a tiny lug stuck inside the frame. Any ideas on how to get it out without totally jacking up my gun?

Also Who builds a GREAT ejector that wont break like this and will work in 9mm?

Ed Brown
Wilson Combat
Brownells.

EGW for parts. maybe an ezout

Aren't both ejector mounting holes through, and not blind holes? Why not drive out the remaining stub from the old one with a small punch?

I haven't looked but I don't think they are through. if It is a through hole I'm set. I didn't notice them as through holes when I was assembling it. Though it is pretty cool to assemble it(still waiting on barrel).

If they arnt im going to have to get a kit from lowes... :-/

Both front and rear are blind holes...

Are you dropping a hammer without an upper on the frame?

That is generally a bad idea.

It is all to easy to raise a bur on the narrow metal at the back of the frame the hammer is striking.

SO, screw extractor didn't do it(simply made a tiny V shaped depression in the middle of the broken off part)... So I went to ace, bought a dremel bit... AND didn't screw up my gun.... I think it is a milling bit(tiny ball for cutting metal) put gun in vice, braced hand on bench, did medium high RPM, and used almost zero pressure going straight down. did the trick. I then bought a nice quality ejector( Wilson) and finished assembly. Did hood and barrel mating this week after work and on sunday Im going to test it. My only concern was the slightl unsupported brass in the barrel but it is right according to the two smiths I talked to and showed the gun....

Can you post us a pic or two so we can visually assess the ejector as it's stuck?

Unless you're shooting hot loads I wouldn't be concerned.  My wife's commander 1911 I built required a bit of throating to run right and I don't see any bulges on the brass at all.  If it were a 10mm, 45 super, or other higher pressure round I'd be more inclined to use a ramped barrel to offer more support.  I'll be using a ramped barrel on my 10mm build 

I didn't take photos of the broken part or gun at the time. basically the back lug of the ejector was seared off inside the frame. Nothing protruding to grab and pull on it.

I had the same problem.  I used the correct number sized drill to remove the burr/anti-flare at the top of the hole.  Then I banged the frame on a piece of softwood to use inertia to remove the stub.

Took it to the range today. Runs great. :-) thanks all.

I broke my ejector too, then broke my punch driving the pin out...  it's at the gunsmith now...  hope yours holds up better than mine!

On a side note, always use high quality name brand parts like: Ed Brown, EGW, Nighthawk, Wilson Combat whenever
possible to help avoid very tedious problems like the one the OP ran Into...does it mean it can't happen with a high
quality name brand part(s), of course not but at least it becomes much less likely...

Often, broken parts like a ejector foot/feet in a blind hole will require set-up in a milling vise or fixture since holes that
are really small like the ejector feet holes won't have the luxury of having screw extractors that small...If you are
careful with a steady hand you can do it with a dremel tool like the OP did...

While I never had that problem of broken ejector foot/feet in the frame (luckily), it can happen and would normally
need milling work to remove the broken material or in really bad situation having to be welded and the hole(s)
re-drilled. I did run Into a situation where I had the ejector feet holes that were drilled to shallow though...

OP glad it all worked out or you.