1st off, a huge thanks to everyone, especially JohnnyO223, for their encouragement as I have asked lots of questions, tried to do research, etc.  Credit for the methods used here goes to them, not to me.  I just put them in practice as a newbie who has never checkered anything before......


Back story:  I have always loved 1911's.  My grandfather had (now my dad has it and I will get it eventually) a 1911 .32acp (one of the spanish ones that is smaller than a fullsize).

I have always wanted to build one, as I have built all my firearms.  However, that little voice that resonates here and elsewhere all too often is "An AR15 is one thing, but a 1911 is another.  Be prepared to fit everything."   So I always backed out.  Until.....PSA sold off their 1911 frames last year.  I scooped one up, along with a slide, and slowly but surely got it together.  It had fitting issues with a few things, and a few things were drop in. But the one thing I lacked was a checkered front strap.I happened to see that Wilson Combat made a checkered front strap that installed under the grips.  I put it on and was happy.  Not bad for $8.




However, it still was not the real thing.  Everytime I shot it I was not happy.  Enter those of you on here that have been showing off your checkering.  When JohnnyO223 posted his build last week, he was gracious enough to provide me with some much needed encouragement and info.  Johnny, thanks for the PM's!

Anyway, going by what he said and what I could read, I placed an order for a checkering file, a Power Custom checkering guide, and a few spare needle files that I needed anyway.  Since this is my favorite gun to CC, I went with 30lpi checkering.  Some like 20, most like 25, but I didn't want a cheese grater if I had to have this against bare skin.  30lpi gives a good grip without being so rough.  As you cut the lines, you will also want a brush to blow the shavings out of the way.  I used a course hair brush that I had in my toolbox, and I also brushed the file as I went.  A clean file is a happy file.

After stripping the gun to the frame, I clamped it in my vice.  I read somewhere else to put a zip tie at the top of the grip, as this will help the file having a stopping point when doing the vertical lines.  I highly recommend it.


Here you can see the guide set up to do the vertical lines.  I actually started on the horizontal, which requires turning the guide around.  This guide will also allow 60 degree checkering.




In this photo you will notice two things:  A) I have started the horizontal lines.  Put the guide on and go real slow.  Dont try to force the file, just lightly let it make marks.  Each pass takes a little more off, using the weight of the file with some *slight* pressure.  This pic shows deeper cross marks on the bottom and shallower on the top, as well as one pass on the vertical.  Once you get some deep ones, use them as a guide to start new lines, moving the file one line at a time.  Your previous line makes a good guide.

B) the second thing you make notice is I sanded the frame before starting.  I was working in my garage and I just couldn't get a good read on my work with the frame darkened.  As I progressed, I occasionally used a sharpie to see how I am going.  Dykam layout fluid will work also.  The stainless look for me helped me...to each their own.



Horizontals all done.  I did some light verticals and removed the zip tie to get the top better.



Guide back on, working on verticals.  Cross cutting was rough the first few strokes.  I really had to take it slow.  This was the most time consuming part for me.  



Once the guide is removed, you do the verticals like the horizontals.  Use your previous cuts as a guide.  Go slow.  I also found that as I made 2-3 new vertical lines, it helped me to go back over the horizontal lines and smooth them back out.  The zip tie at the top helps IMO.



All done!  Just needs cleaning up.



A few stragglers at the top that can be sanded out.



Sanded and done:



The whole gun is getting duracoated HK black next week.  Will post that pic when I am done.

that looks awesome!

That's a good looking pistol.

nice

I told you it's easy. Just takes time.
Hey, great job looks awesome I'm glad I could help.

Great write up!  nicely done!

Have you thought before you recoat the finish, about undercutting the trigger guard? My brother's colt has it, and it feels amazing.

The frame already has a small undercut.  Since I have been shooting it for a few months, I will probably leave as is since I am used to it by now.

very nice and well done.  Did you do a practice run on pipe or bar stock before you cut on your frame?

It's a Llama, not technically a 1911.

I did practice on some aluminum bar as I had not done it before.  The main reason for practicing was to see how the file would bite.  I didn't want to have a slip.  But I didn't practice a lot, as I didn't want to dull the teeth enough to not cut.

yes, done in the 1911 style.  Interesting thing is that the barrel doesn't have a link on it.

I decided to undercut the trigger guard afterall.  There was already a slight undercut, so using a small drum sander I had I followed it as a guide.  It feels really good, might relieve the back of the trigger guard slightly more.

Nice. I would be checker, checker, F it, stipple stipple.

Finally duracoated mine in hk black.   Not the most professional perfect, but I am happy with it.  Still need to put a new fiber optic in the front.