I have a new SP-01 Tactical coming and i want the pro-package installed.I called the good people over at CGW and lo and behold they are so busy,they aren't accepting any work for awhile..Is there any shop that has the knowledge to install this package?..thanks

It is really not that hard to do.  If you have a working knowledge of how to use a hammer, punch, driving a pin the right direction and can be patient with your work.

Do you have any experience taking down a 1911 or similar pistol?  No fitting is required on the parts like a 1911 which makes it leagues easier.  I did my CZ 75 after watching a video on the procedure for a detail disassembly.  Hardest part is reassembling the sear block mostly because I have big hands and tiny parts are harder to manipulate since I do not have elf hands.

i've swapped out a trigger on a XDM i once owned,but after talking to the guys at CGW i'm not gonna tackle this. I called my guy up here and he says he's put a few in and will mine

Honestly not that complicated. Lots of youtube videos on how to dissemble. The parts are pretty much all drop in, except for the sear. And even then it's just a matter of some locktite. Only fun I've had was the trigger bar spring, once you put in an extender mag release.

Granted I have a lot of experience (by no means an expert) gunsmithing.  Tuning triggers on rifles, building 1911s (fitting parts), Glock Armorers course, building AR's, and fixing friends shit all the time I would rate the difficultly level of the CZ on a scale from 1-10 around a 3-4 (10 being hardest most complicated and Glock being 1 most easiest).  My only suggestions on taking on this task is get a slave pin for the sear block (I made one from a q-tip in hindsight I would probably get the metal pin from CGW), work in a very clean and neat area, get a magnet in case you drop a small part, and have good lighting.

ETA.... You might want to make or get an Armorers block.  You can take a chunk of 2x4 and drill holes in it or buy the Wheeler one from Brownells etc.
Punch set can be purchased from Sears they sell punches and roll pin punches.
Hammer you do not need a very heavy one but a polyurethane rubber one is very useful.  Sears sells as well.

This stuff is easy. Do yourself a favor and watch the YouTube videos first and see how it's done. I'm not saying it won't take you 5 times longer than the video says, but I'm saying if you can use tools you can do it.

Also a good slave pin in a pinch is trimmer string.

Magnet is your friend.  Ask me how I know.

Oh how I hate carpet and small parts.  Same issue I had except I got a bigger magnet after searching for about 30-45mins for that tiny lifter spring I got a bigger magnet and within 5 mins I found it.

I just did a bunch of CGW parts on my P-07 and honestly, its really not that hard. This is what I installed:

Short Reset Kit
Reduced power trigger return spring
Carry Spring kit
Oversized roller

There are a few very, very good videos on Youtube by JoeMustang or something like that. Anyway, its pretty simple. Watch the video a couple times and get a plastic bag to take out the ejector as the spring will go shooting across the room.... don't ask... Only needs some basic tools - hammer, a few punches, black of wood and small screw driver... Honestly, the hardest part of the whole things was getting the decocker lever back in. It also gives you a good understanding of how it works.

While you are in there, deburr and polish the back of the trigger bar that rides against the frame and slightly bend the trigger bar spring to reduce the amount spring stacking.

You can do this job yourself.  The trickiest part of the whole job other than the sear cage ( use the slave pin) is popping the left side decocker lever off.  Get the smallest flat blade screwdriver you can find, slide it up under the decocker, ( you will see one side is open) and with a little pressure push in on the little lever and pry up.  It will pop off.  

This is shown on many Youtube videos but not well explained.  It really is that easy to do.  All you have to do is push it back on the shaft to replace it.  THAT EASY.

this is very relevant to me.

Ive built every AR I own, and installed all the mods in my glocks and USP's. The usp was kind of a PITA, but once I got past a couple hitch points it was fine.

People have always indicated that CZ's are super complicated and all the parts require fitting. Is this not true? Id much rather do it myself but I'm fearful of damaging my new SP-01 that will be here very soon.

I can save alot of money and learn about my new gun if I do it myself.

Is it really not complicated like people make it out to be? Is there a good video somewhere of how to polish what parts, etc?

I can save enough for a SS guide rod, recoil spring set, extended mag release, and G10 grips if I DIY.

Pretty darn tempting

Ok pro package...

Looking at the photo, you'll be taking the cz down to the trigger bar and the trigger. No extended release so no monkeying around with the trigger bar spring, which is probably the trickiest part.

Hardest part will likely be getting the hammer pin out, and if you really want to cheat don't even bother, just pick up another full size hammer strut and put the hammer pins and hammer on the new strut. Disconnector is a drop in part, just another pin.

Sear would be next, and once it's in the sear cage all you need to do it seat the allen screw and locktight it.

The supplied lifter can be a bit of chore but if you're careful the only worry is losing the lifter spring.

Extended firing pin comes out by hammering out one pin, and removing the firing pin block.

Then there's the actual trigger, and trigger return spring.

Recoil spring...

First one I did took me a few hours, next one quite a bit less, even with polishing everything.

EDIT: Just saw you wanted the extended mag release, it's really nice to have, BUT in order to get to it you're going to be taking the cz down to a bare frame. No difficult, BUT you'll be playing with the trigger bar spring, that can be a bit trying at times. CGW will talk you through it, but be warned if the trigger bar spring isn't set correctly the hammer may not drop consistently. On my comp guns I have the extended release, on my carry, I passed, now that's probably all in my head as once I've gotten the trigger bar spring set I've not had any issues with either of them.

This. This is most important thing to note. I bought 10, but I've done several CZs and now have it down. Using the slave pin there is a rounded end and a blunt nose end. It's driving in the actual sear cage pin that destroys this lifter spring, or sends it flying. To solve this problem you'll want to start on the opposite end of the lever spring. As the slave pin approaches exiting the sear block hold it nice and level so the actual sear block pin follows the slave in a direct line. Nice and easy.

 

And, even if you think you have it down order 10 anyways.


The most time consuming part is polishing all the parts. Taking it apart and putting it back together is quick. It pays to polish the under side of the trigger bar. There are two grooves. Tight spots. This one spot alone can make the difference between a great end result and a mediocre end result. You can also tune the trigger bar spring. I believe it's the right side you tweak to get the 'feel'. You'll know it when you get it.


Good luck! It's a really fun job and the result is absolutely amazing. Night and day.

what do you guys use to polish with?

is there a tutorial on 'polish points'?

This is a tag.

Only thing holding me back from a p-01 is the horrible over travel and reset.

If I can do this at home - might have to FO

The SRS kit fixed mine up tremendously.  When I get my SP-01 I plan to do a full package upgrade on it.

the difference in the pro and defensive carry is the reach reduction and overtravel as far as I can tell

 

I use a three stage paste polish w a dremel and buffing wheels on the CZs.  A couple places may be easier for you with a sandpaper but most shine up nicely using a black-orange-red- past.


There's a great tutorial on the cz forum by cgw.

I guess CZ triggers must be hit and miss... My P-01 trigger was a bit gritty at first but it smoothed up exponentially over 600-800 rounds. It got even smoother double action, and especially single action wise after the first 1K rounds. It's at about 3K now and the trigger has broken in so smooth that I have no plans to do anything to it. These pistols/triggers really shine the more you shoot them. My 97B had a nice trigger day one and the SP-01 Tactical I got in July has the best out of the box DA/SA trigger I've ever pulled... I've been spoiled with 1911's so I know what a nice trigger feel like. I'm considering myself lucky with my 3 examples. But I suggest to spend some time with them as they are to see how/if they smooth up from use first...

Lots of good advice in here. Like others have said, it's not that bad at all. I equate it to just slightly tougher than building an AR, and that's because the parts are smaller and harder to deal with.

My only advice from when I did all the work on my CZ is to do all of your work with small springs and pins inside of a gallon Ziploc bag. Saves the spring from flying away and the pins from dropping onto the floor.

My .02.

I have a pre-B, a SAO, and just recently picked up a SP-01. The new style trigger on the SP01 was diving me nuts and had to go. After some research and a conversation with David at Cajun, I picked up a Pro package, a starter punch, and a couple of extra lifter springs.

I had some trepidation tackling this one on my own but figured that I have detail stripped and swapped parts on a number of Glocks, M&P's, 1911's, etc. After reading the tutorial a couple of times that is linked on Cajun's site to Brian Enos' forum, i got to work.

The toughest part is reassembling the sear cage but, with good reference pics, it's not an issue. the floating trigger pin is an awesome part. I didn't lose my lifter spring but, did launch it twice, I'd recommend grabbing at least one spare to be safe

My particular pistol had a few issues creep up and David was great at walking me through the fixes over the phone. I ended up needing to properly tension the trigger bar support spring, make a clearance cut on the wing of the disco and finally remove a tiny bit of material from the wedge on the disco. After assembling and disassembling a half dozen times it's become routine.

The difference is night and day compared to stock. I am now thinking about going back to get parts to enhance my SAO.