Interesting.  I posted a factual cleaned up no negativity post on the Kahr Talk site.  It detailed all the trouble and the fixes I had with a CW9.  I had looked at that site and seen nothing much bad-malfunctioning-breaking-misadjusted about new Kahrs.   Now I know why there was nothing much to find.

My thread got one "you are a liar" and half a dozen "nice to see the truth" posts and then disappeared off the CW9 Forum.  Pretty interesting making sure no facts get out.

Below is the text of the actual post:

*******************************************

I would consider myself a fairly sophisticated user of defensive handguns. I carried at least 10 service size/caliber revolvers and autoloading pistols over a period of 25 years. Having shot Master Class bullseye and won regional combat matches, I can shoot.

In the last year or so, I wished to have a CCW handgun smaller than a Glock or K frame Smith and with more ammo capacity than a J frame Smith & Wesson M&P340. Common endeavor these days. I especially wanted a 9mm, not a .32ACP or .380ACP.

I read internet sites, read company literature, shot anything available to shoot, and spent some money. The learning experience has been a complete disappointment.

I tried a Kel-Tec PF9. In three shots of standard velocity Federal 9mm 147 grain HydraShok ammo, the unlocking too soon action blew all three primers and braze welded the firing pin to the slide with full pressure exhaust into the firing pin channel. Returned for cash paid since I knew the dealer well.

I kept looking and excluded Taurus for lack of overall quality. Ruger brought out the LC9 and I looked at it perhaps 5-6 trips to different gun stores. The bugs in the system that had about 1/3 of them going back to Ruger usually for primer debris in the firing pin channel and the horrible stacking trigger kept me from taking the plunge with a LC9.

I read this site, read that magazine article, read other sites, and decided to try a Kahr CW9 7+1 size 9mm both as the right size for pocket carry and for better reliability than the baby size 6+1 9mm guns.

So I did recently buy a CW9 which is a 7+1 9mm with a stainless slide/barrel over a polymer frame. I had read and studied the topic so much for a while I decided to try one, if nothing else. The agreement seems to be that the mini-Kahrs, the 6+1 type, have some inherent function problems, but that the slightly larger CW9 was reliable once debugged, if it was buggy.

Buggy it was. Was I say, because after buying the gun and 6 magazines sold only at $39.99 plus shipping each, I had too much $American$ invested in the thing to throw it away. They are not cheap.

Things it took to make it 100% reliable:

*the rounded top front of trigger turning down cut my finger on first magazine. I removed metal, reprofiled the part that acts as a trigger stop in the forward motion, smoothed the part that rotates down away from the frame when you pull the trigger. If you have large hands, it rotates down and cuts your finger. A Kahr person on the phone said the worst that happens when you remove the trigger forward motion stop part of the trigger is that the free pull lengthens slightly. No harm by changing it.
*inside of trigger guard was rough cast plastic where your finger rubs as you pull to the rear. Polished the plastic so as not to retard my finger coming to the rear.
*disconnector was eating plastic in rear where upside down U is located for slide contact. Harbor Freight Mini-Dremel did its magic removing burrs from the stamped disconnector/trigger bar part. Burring stopped.
*magazines would not drop free when mag catch released them. Mini-Dremel removed burrs from the trigger bar reduced dragging on the magazines. Helped, not the full answer. They would mostly fall free.
*barrel had burrs all over from factory machining. Mini-Dremel neatly smoothed the sharp feathers and polished corners for smooth operation.
*striker tang-firing pin "sear" burred on bottom making a catchy draggy pull. Polished it with 600 grit paper backed with a flat stone. Much improved pull without a late in stroke catch.
*hand cycled the action 200 times just to loosen up the system and identify spots that rubbed.
*fired 200 rounds of WallyWorld WW115FMJ perfectly. Zero malfunctions. Every time, I loaded 7+1 to stress it as much as possible. Worked perfect. (Except for mags dropped out 2 or 3 times for unknown reason at the time. Worried me, but it never did it again. Remember this for later.) Thought gun was good to go. Time to test hollow points. Wrongie when I switched to hollow points.
*Where the barrel hood meets the chamber at top, there was a machined ledge about 1/32" tall under the hood upon which every brand of hollow point would catch and not enter chamber 3-4 shots out of each 8. Speer Gold Dot, Federal HydraShok, Winchester PD something, EVEN Hornady Critical Defense would hang up on it. Solution equaled you guessed it. Mini-Dremel away the L_ of the ledge and made it into a /_ if you get the idea. Polished and deburred the entire rear end of the barrel and hood in any place where a bullet could possibly come in contact. In Colt .45ACP terms, it was throated and polished. Also polished the feed ramp and rounded the bottom corners where they were getting burred on something.
*result equaled perfect function with any hollow point. Since the ledge was reshaped, it has now eaten perfectly, feed/fire/eject, about 500 rounds since the above fixes. When the ledge went away, no more catching bullet noses, the thing works perfectly.
*magazines dropping free when the mag catch was pushed were problematic. Found feathers from casting the plastic frame hanging inside of plastic handle holding mags in. Defeathered handle inside and mags drop free.
*finger grip extensions were an extra lump in my pocket in a pocket holster and felt funny under my finger firing??user concern, not defect. I reshaped each magazine so as to eliminate the little finger hook. Just enough to match the slope of the plastic above the little hook. Not a radical reshaping, just enough to get rid of the projection and blend the profile into the magazine tube and bottom plate. It felt better firing and stuck out less carried.
*sighting in was a trip and a half. Rear sight destroyed a couple expensive brass drifts. It was simply too tight for any gun sight. Finally had to shape a steel punch to move the rear sight without hurting anything before the rear sight broke loose for proper adjustment. To move one you have to put the slide on a firm but non maring surface, use a steel drift, and wack it a good one. Not precise, but I got it perfect.
*the CW9 is now zeroed for Hornady Critical Defense 115 FTX ammo. It shoots about 1" high at 15 yards. Same sight position works with 115 WW FMJ. Same sight position works with 4.1 Bullseye, Hornady 115 FMJRN reloads. All three loads shoot to same zero. This is the factory ammo sight height selections which have to use 115 grain ammo for an elevation zero.
*heavier and heavier bullets shoot more and more to the left and up. Hornady's Critical Duty 135 grain 9mm is close to the three loads above because it is kinda slow for a 135 grain 9mm. Standard 147 9mm loads move left and up quickly. Never shot any +P as no need with the Hornady Critical Defense ammo expanding and holding together to penetrate well.
*so having 500 rounds through it with zero failures since all the fixes were done, I thought I was finally good to go.
*then I ran accross a "warning" about the magazine follower internally disconnecting the magazine catch as there were 4 rounds remaining and/or again when there were 3 rounds remaining in the magazine. The follower goes by the mag catch slot in the magazine and in going by pushes the mag catch out of its slot in the mag. This is aggravated by the twisting effect of the finger grip extension floor plates. I read this note and said, Naw, not mine. Wrong again.
*follower problem details: See: http://kahrtalk.com/showthread.php?t=1612 I stripped my six magazines and found the four original ones I bought at purchase chewed up with plastic sticking here and there. The two newer ones were beginning the process of self destruction.
*There is a simple fix there. I sanded and polished away the chewing making a 45 degree bevel sort of rounding and hope that stops the chewing. Pretty much on the order of the pictures in the site thread referenced above. It at least removes plastic material sticking out into the mag catch slot. The chewing up of the follower in two spots seems a constant process until the follower no longer contacts the mag catch. Something to watch for in the future as I clean magazines. I had no interest in grinding away any more than it took to uniformily smooth the chewed up places and round the areas as in the referenced site. Test firing reveals no problems in do this.
*the finger grip hook on all my mags is gone now so as not to contribute to the inadvertent release of magazines by twisting or by pulling down on the hook. I like them better that way anyhow. Some people like the little hooks.

Bottom line is that the CW9 works perfectly at this moment.

On the dumbest day of my life, I would not buy it again.

The Kahr design has obvious design deficiencies that are totally unaddressed. This problem or that problem or a minor function problem, a person might write off. This gun has a collection of problems that no production gun should ever have. If the manufacturer does not care to address those design/manufaturing problems, there is no reason to buy one.

The gunsmith cost to debug this CW9, much less the test ammo cost, would exceed the cost of the gun.

Having bought the Kahr and magazines and having it working perfectly, strangely enough from what I have just written, I like it. I intend to keep it and carry it.

Trust might come again if another 500 rounds of trouble free firing.

But I would never recommend anyone buy one again and I myself will surely never buy one again.

(Being a Glock fan, and used to 100% out of the box perfect function, I note with sadness the recent rash of Glocks that do not feed/fire/eject even when worked on due to slide machining FUBARS effecting extraction and ejection, meaning they don't extract and eject.)

My bottom line is simple. If you have a good J frame Smith, keep it and be happy. It will probably work longer than you do and be trouble free.

And as a simple indication of two points of view, the biggest Kahr plus is that it shoots full power 9mm harmlessly to your hand while the J frame Smith makes you regret firing full power .38 or .38+P. The little auto CW9 Kahr absorbs and disipates recoil very nicely. Maybe that is its biggest plus. Full power 9mm ammo with no more fuss than a .38 Special wadcutter for comparison of recoil feel.

I wish the manufacturer had as much concern over their products as do the users.

ADDED:  Slide hold open lever spring.  As another joyful item to watch out for with a Kahr CW9, the slide hold open lever spring may need tweaked to prevent the slightest inadvertent contact from locking the slide back while there are still rounds in the magazine.

Note:  The KahrTalk site has a lot of info about how to tighten the slide hold open lever spring screw some magical amount and be careful not to strip it and if you do use super glue and if you do it right it makes the spring operate like two springs.  One part against the take down pin and the other pressing the slide stop lever down.  

My opinion is that the advice given there on this topic is complete BS written by someone who never bothered to figure out how it was inteded to work.  Tightness of that screw has nothing to do with how the spring works.  Making it so tight it works as two springs messes up the factory design.

The spring and washer keep the spring from falling out.  That is all they do.  

My opinion based on Mk.1 Mod.0 eyeball examination is this.  The proper function of the spring is in parts:
a)  At about 1:00 viewed from the left side of the frame  there is a pin on the end of the spring that inserts into the frame that locates the spring.
b)  The spring winds counter clockwise so that the 9:00 loop presses against the take down pin for a pivot point and to drop into a notch so the pin stays in.
c)  Underneath the screw washer, hollow side up, the washer and screw prevent the spring from falling out and trap it in the slot provided at 6:00.  The spring is intended to be free to move in this area.
d)  The spring continues to wind up so that at about 3:00 it makes a turn to the right/rear of the frame.  The part after this right turn presses down on the slide stop.

On my CW9, there is so little tension with the projection at 3:00 that the slightest touch knocked it up into slide lock open.

My idea of a fix:  Remove the screw, washer, and spring.  If the 6:00 position of the spring is grasped by a set of small needle nose pliers and the projection is grasped with a second set of needlenose pliers and if the projection is turned ever so slightly so that it orients to 4:00 instead of 3:00, you have "fixed" it.  With the end of the projection now at 4:00 there is perhaps twice the tension down on the slide stop.  When installing the slide stop, you now need to be careful to wiggle it so the projection climbs up over its contact point on the slide stop lever.  The spring then drops/clicks into a little groove that keeps the slide stop lever in place.  The 9:00 loop also drops into the groove in the takedown pin.

This small change appears permanent in the spring and keeps a slight bump from activating the hold open feature.  The spring now has more tension on the lever and the spring is free to flex through and under the washer at the 6:00 position.

If the bottom corner of the slide hold open lever, the flat part with the little grooves, is rounded under and polished so the last groove disappears, but you do not go all the way through the metal at the bottom underneath side, it also reduces the tendency to self activate.  It makes a neat looking job if you use 600 grit to cut it and 1500 grit to polish it.

I've never even been able to read that forum.  My IP address was apparently banned so I cannot register, and they never respond to my email inquiries as to why that happened.

Fan boys only I guess.  I did not drink the Koolaid.

But truth be told, my efforts to make my CW9 run would probably help a lot of guys with one that doesn't run for this reason or that reason.

You rarely see accurate, this was wrong, so I did this, information.

The place should give me a gold star for persistence, not delete my post and the half dozen replies.

At least I realize you cannot rely on that site for needed information.

That's actually pretty common. I got banned from the 1911 Forum for arguing with Dave Severns about Dan Wesson's external extractors.

If you have something to say that doesn't fit with the image they want to portray, it gets deleted and you get banned.

I found a thread detailing the CM9's slide jam problem. Mine is experiencing this.

It was funny how all the "it's your fault" criticism suddenly stopped when Kahr did, in fact, acknowledge and repair the problem under warranty.

It was exactly what the owners of the jamming CM9's thought it was. (Barrel wedging itself into the barrel-hole on the front of the slide.)

I'm grateful they stood up to the barrage of:
-you cleaned it wrong
-you oiled it wrong
-you put the recoil spring in backwards
-you screwed up the slide stop
-you hit the slide stop with thumb while firing
-you limpwristed it
-just because you posted 2 youtube videos detailing exactly how the barrel jamming, doesn't mean the barrel is jamming

Sad it was deleted.

I love my PM9, but I had alot of trouble with it up front...  but after the break in period, it worked great.  Trigger is silky smooth, and no trouble eating any HPs.

Yeah, but I've never even been on the Kahr forum.  It's like they banned a whole block of IP addresses that happened to include mine, and I'm just out of luck.

It's possible you don't actually have a public address and that you are behind a NAT where multiple users show up under the same public IP address.  If one of those users pulled a no-no it could get you put in time out too.



Whenever i have an issue like that i just tell them that i'm posting from a starbucks or mcdonalds or somewhere public.  Usually they'll pop the block.
 

Sounds like you got a lemon.  Just curious, but why didn't you send it back to Kahr.  I've never used their customer service dept., but most who have say they will take care of you.

Any manufacturer can turn out a bad gun.  My 2011 Gen 3 19 was a lemon right out of the box.  On the other hand,  my CM9 I picked up last month has been flawless.  I'm not a Kahr fanboy by any means.  Actually this is the first Kahr I've ever bought.  Bought it for use as a pocket gun and it fits that role very well.

The shape of the top forward part of the trigger coming down into my finger as I pulled it was not going to get changed by Kahr.  I asked of their second tier tech about removing most of the forward "stop" portion and he said it would hurt nothing, work normally, and simply let the trigger go a little farther forward.  So I did that.

The other things came up and were addressed one at a time always thinking this was the last thing.  One of my larger "fears" of factory repairs is introducing new screwups that I don't know about.  The things in my long list were easily in my skill and experience level so I just did them.  No complaints about Kahr Customer Service at all.  I didn't ask for anything and they didn't give me anything.

I know how to send something back.  3 of the last 5 S&W guns I bought went back, one twice, with non user serviceable problems when new.  Ditto a refund on the Kel-Tec PF9 in my first posts.

I was told by the KahrTalk adm that their site is for fans.  If I am negative I should expect to be jumped by the resident fan boy.  I should expect to be criticized for being negative on the product.  Which pretty much tells me that reading that site before I bought the gun was a waste of time.  AR15 tolerates straight talk.

WAIT, the admin flat out told you that their site is for fans?  So much of the idea of a forum being for free thought and discussion.

and I guess I will scratch the Kahr CW9 off my want list and go back to the Shield.

LampShadeActual,

As you are new to the forum, I would suggest you review policy on member conduct. I do not tolerate members attacking other members and provoking arguments for no reason. While I will tolerate criticism of Kahr products, this forum is for people who are fans of them and to join posting attacks on the company invites criticism. If you are not willing to tolerate that you may want to adjust your approach.

Thank you!
__________________
Chief Administrator and CEO
Kahrtalk.com

************************************admin message I got*********************************

After My long CW9 post and half a dozen replies was deleted, I made another post noting it was deleted.  One of the 10,000 post fellows there stuck his nose in, the same one who essentially said I was a liar in my first post about the CW9.  I noted that he posts a lot and says nothing useful.  The admin locked the thread and I got the above message.  

The message plainly says I joined, disrespected the company product, and that invites criticism by the loyal.  I should either tolerate the critcism or change my approach to what I post.  There was no criticism of the fellow for calling me a liar.  And apparently no criticism of his posting just to post.  In one of the 10,000 posts fellow's items, he noted that he had gotten the admin to delete the numerical post count on that site so people would not know how many posts he had made.  I kinda like that feature as it lets me know who the totally lifeless guys are who put drivel on every single thread.

As to a pocket auto, beware.  S&W chopping up a copy of a Glock may well have its own problems and that is a LARGE pocket auto.  Of all the small flat autos, the CW9 is the best I could find and the easiest to conceal of those I figured would work.  The CW9 is way ahead of the Ruger effort and KelTec PF9.

The baby size 6+1 guns are a bear to hold onto and often don't work.  The slightly larger 7+1 CW9 is a nice controllable size.  If you are handy with firearms fixes, it might be worth sorting one out.  Try it in a store or shoot one for real, and make sure you can live with the trigger as is.  After that, my CW9 was a lot of little stuff that was doable, but annoying.  The result now is a very nice pocket auto.  If you aren't handy, J frame Smith is the way to go.  If I were ever alone and afraid, the one thing in my pocket I know would work is my S&W M&P 340.  Its the most expensive they make, but it works and is refined.

If you like a CW9 trigger, my thread is a guide to all the sorts of things to look for.  If it ain't broke, don't fix it.  If it needs it, it can all be do it yourself stuff.

Avoid their BG38 plastic revolver as they have defects beyond belief.  They sometimes appear to even work with light loads or wadcutters, but the recoil of a .38 or +P 38 disengages the bizarre star/rachet system some fool invented for their plastic wonder.  Then you pull once to reengage the star and then pull a second time to fire it.  Disconcerting.  As often as not, they simply don't work out of the box.

I just got a new CW9 & a used CW40, I read your thread before it was removed, I thought it was well written and honest. Kind of gets me down that they roll like that over there, when I research a firearm, I want to know the good and the bad, I want to hear about the gems and the lemons, I read your thread before pulling the trigger on purchasing my cw's, I will most likely keep the one that I shoot the best.

UNIT,

Thank you.  Good luck with the CW's.  I would guess you'll like the CW9 9mm.  It is manageable recoil wise.  You can go shoot a 100 rounds at a time and not suffer.

I find a .40S&W, even in a Glock 27, burdensome after a magazine or two.  The CW40 may be a handfull.

I was sorry they dumped that post.  I had worked on it to make it milder than the first draft.  Then I had to edit out some small parts to fit it under a keystroke limit they have.  Then it disappeared.  Hardly the free discussion and divergent opinions the internet is "known" for.  More like drink the Koolaid or go away.

My attachment to the CW9 remains an oddity in my own mind.  It is like the '96 Saturn SL1 I bought in 2004 for $2200 with about 70,000 miles on it.  I needed a car for fishing or hunting that would attract no attention if left at a trailhead or boat ramp.  It had some mechanical issues.  Belt, hoses, anti-freeze, brakes, some electrical issues, a fiberglass fender crack at a mounting bolt location.  I backyard fixed everything wrong with it.  It now has 163,000 miles and there is nothing wrong with it mechanically.  Rolls right along on a new set of Michelin tires.  I still use it for my fishing and hunting car.  You can put a bucket of bait or fish in the back and not feel bad.  A deer fits in if you lay down the rear seats.  The work on the car made me more attached to the car than had I just bought one needing no work.  Maybe it is just a time investment.  Maybe it is understanding how the relatively simple car works.  The fiberglass body panels keep it looking nice and I keep it running.

Maybe the stainless and plastic CW9 is the equivalent.

I still could not in good faith recommend the thing to someone without the skills to make it run.

LampShade

Slide hold open lever spring.  As another joyful item to watch out for with a Kahr CW9, the slide hold open lever spring may need tweaked to prevent the slightest inadvertent contact from locking the slide back while there are still rounds in the magazine.

Note:  The KahrTalk site has a lot of info about how to tighten the slide hold open lever spring screw some magical amount and be careful not to strip it and if you do use super glue and if you do it right it makes the spring operate like two springs.  One part against the take down pin and the other pressing the slide stop lever down.  

My opinion is that the advice given there on this topic is complete BS written by someone who never bothered to figure out how it was inteded to work.  Tightness of that screw has nothing to do with how the spring works.  Making it so tight it works as two springs messes up the factory design.

The spring and washer keep the spring from falling out.  That is all they do.  

My opinion based on Mk.1 Mod.0 eyeball examination is this.  The proper function of the spring is in parts:
a)  At about 1:00 viewed from the left side of the frame  there is a pin on the end of the spring that inserts into the frame that locates the spring.
b)  The spring winds counter clockwise so that the 9:00 loop presses against the take down pin for a pivot point and to drop into a notch so the pin stays in.
c)  Underneath the screw washer, hollow side up, the washer and screw prevent the spring from falling out and trap it in the slot provided at 6:00.  The spring is intended to be free to move in this area.
d)  The spring continues to wind up so that at about 3:00 it makes a turn to the right/rear of the frame.  The part after this right turn presses down on the slide stop.

On my CW9, there is so little tension with the projection at 3:00 that the slightest touch knocked it up into slide lock open.

My idea of a fix:  Remove the screw, washer, and spring.  If the 6:00 position of the spring is grasped by a set of small needle nose pliers and the projection is grasped with a second set of needlenose pliers and if the projection is turned ever so slightly so that it orients to 4:00 instead of 3:00, you have "fixed" it.  With the end of the projection now at 4:00 there is perhaps twice the tension down on the slide stop.  When installing the slide stop, you now need to be careful to wiggle it so the projection climbs up over its contact point on the slide stop lever.  The spring then drops/clicks into a little groove that keeps the slide stop lever in place.  The 9:00 loop also drops into the groove in the takedown pin.

This small change appears permanent in the spring and keeps a slight bump from activating the hold open feature.  The spring now has more tension on the lever and the spring is free to flex through and under the washer at the 6:00 position.

If the bottom corner of the slide hold open lever, the flat part with the little grooves, is rounded under and polished so the last groove disappears, but you do not go all the way through the metal at the bottom underneath side, it also reduces the tendency to self activate.  It makes a neat looking job if you use 600 grit to cut it and 1500 grit to polish it.

LampShadeActual,
Nice write up, thanks for sharing your opinion on what you believe is the "correct'" method to install the slide stop spring, screw and washer. However, I do think you've misread the information posted on kahrtalk. Yes, the spring needs to be properly seated (as you describe), but how "snug" the screw needs to be is where your interpretation varies. The posted info suggests tightening the screw until the spring seems to act as two separate springs, but further clarifies that it's just needs to be snug enough to limit how easily the spring moves. Personally, I think the info I posted on kahrtalk and yours here are of the same thought, though differing in how snug (or how to describe "snug") the screw should be.  BTW,  my info was not posted as a "how to", but rather as "how I did it"  and no where did I mention using super glue as a fix for a stripped screw as you insinuate I did. You're welcome to your opinion whether or not I'm "someone who never bothered to figure out how it was inteded(sic) to work", but please be factual about what I did or did not write.
Bottom line for me:  the info I posted on kahrtalk in regards to the slide stop spring and screw, has stood me in good stead through thousands of trouble free rounds downrange.
Here's wishing similar success to you as well.
Regards,
Greg

Greg, Sir:

My apologies for blending one post into another in a summary.  I read things all over the site one day and found the info which I summarized but apparently stuck the super glue idea into the main idea about tightening the screw so tight.   I only intended it as a summary.

I went back looking for the thread of which we speak today and never did find it.  There are so many threads in a bunch of Kahr model sub-forums dealing with how to fix this and how to fix that that I didn't find the slide stop screw/spring thread in 45 minutes of hunting for it specifically.

I would guess if you find the main thread, there is a wise-ter that posts many interesting ideas.  Might be in one of those as to the super glue.  I understand adhesives and super glue won't stick worth a damnation to polymer materials.

I retain a high level of conficence that what I posted is a permanent way to increase the slide stop downward tension taking into account the original design and my major desire not to strip the little screw.  At worst you wreck a spring, not a frame screw hole full of threads.

(Keep in mind this is all an improvement over the Air Force method of jet engine repair, better known as "Pound to fit, paint to match.")

LampShade

OP, I think people who couldn't appreciate the well-written criticism you posted there are insecure about there choice in Kahr.

I have sold a USP, a P229, and a CW40 this past year, and the CW40 is the gun i miss the most. It was the perfect size for me, accurate and was dead reliable after I figured out to not bend the slide-catch spring an how to tweak it. Even though I bent it upon dis-assembly and the manual spells out to not do that in about 3 places.

Anyway calling a spade a spade in a thoughtful manner is appreciated, got no time for fanbois.

LampShade:  I view KahrTalk as "AMUSING"...   I am with you, it is close to UN-F*&&&*&%ING-BELIEVEABLE on the how the blinded hard-core / diehard fan boys all raved up against those who dare to complain on "Kahr  "god" ..

It is just plain AMUSEMENT when someone called a design flaw as "feature"..    

in fact, I do enjoy stopping over there for some funny laughable read which may pop up every now and then.

Have a laugh.

You forgot "it's still in it's 3,000 round break-in period, go shoot it some more"

I agree with the OP.  Kahr has numerous small faults that are hard to correct.  The slide stop is what got me out of them.  MAJOR issue.

I also think that their crappy magazines need to be added to the list.  Their mags are not designed to retain rounds if they are not in the gun.  Kahr spare mags leave rounds popping out all over the place.

I didn't get a response from Kahr's website RMA form. I just fixed it myself, since one of the Kahrtalk members posted photos of how Kahr did the repair. It worked.

You of all people will appreciate that my primary CCW is now a Glock.

The 6-round CM9 mag seems to work OK. The 7-rounder locked up the CM9 pretty good at the range recently.

I also remember one of the mags spitting a couple rounds out onto the range floor.

I'm not even sure why I still have the damn thing. It's a bit too big for pocket carry, and if I going to IWB carry than there are dozens of better choices.

Although, there is one use for it:
I always fire it first during range trips. Then, any other handgun I fire immediately afterwards feels like a super-ergonomic .22 short. So I guess it's a training tool

I guess I was lucky with my CW9. UPS delivered it and I had the first rounds loaded and fired before he left. I started off with Winchester PDX 147gr, Black Hills 115gr jhp, then Ranger 147gr T-Series. Then I switched to Tula 115gr fmj 200 rounds. I then tore it down for its first cleaning. I followed up with 300 rounds of my hand load 125gr cast bullets and cleaned it again. At this point it because my off duty carry gun since I had no issues with it.

Since then I put another 200 cast rounds and 50 rounds of hand load 115jhp. 300 rounds of Tula, HST in 124, 124+P, 147, 147+P, Gold Dot 124,124+P,147gr, Federal XM9001 and 9BPLE. I switched to cleaning it every few hundreds rounds if it needs it or not. So far not a single hiccup.

Edited to add I hate their mags. But other than being weird they have functioned.

I have a PM40 that's been problem free after the first 50 rounds.  I'm up to just over 1000 through it now.

That said, it seems that some of Kahr's line up fairs better than others.  I'm not sure if it's the assembly lines, the R&D when the designs are drawn or what.  In fact, the PM40 has gone through a few revisions since it was first launched and I bought one of the latter revisions a few years ago.  Many of the complaints and small problems that had to be fixed by their customer service/warranty department were delt with in the later production pistols by making many of the "custom/upgrade" features and fixes standard on the entire lineup.

I suspect that the CM like up maybe going through the same process right now and I wouldn't be shocked if your post is sitting on a desk in the Kahr management office so that changes can be made.

Kahr doesn't want to acknowledge those issues publicly because it's bad press and a large number of customers who were happy with their pistols before reading your post will suddenly decide their gun has problems and start demanding that Kahr fix them, which is time and money out of their bottom line.

Not saying it's right, but it's how a lot of the smaller players in manufacturing decide to get by.

Wes

Have had (3) semi-auto pistols with price tags under $400 NIB that didn't have any issues a decent break-in period didn't cure.  One of them was even a Taurus.  Kahr is a little proud of their bidnez..  Wonder how the NYPD trials went for them to choose Kahr...hmm.