User Panel
Posted: 8/14/2016 10:03:02 PM EDT
In an interest to consolidate calibers and brass, can I use .357 brass loaded with wadcutters, with .38 safe loads, in a .38 airweight revolver? I realize that I may have to have the cylinder reamed to accept .357 brass.
Thanks |
|
[#1]
I wouldn't. Unless you can guarantee that the .38 is buried with you when die.
Not every one would understand what you were doing. Some one might think that they could safely fire full power .357 cartridges in that gun. Not a good idea at all. |
|
[#2]
Well the .357mag brass is longer than that .38 brass. And I would not try to use it in a gun not designed for the round. It is a lot hotter round than a 38. Now .38 in .357 is fine.
|
|
[#3]
Quoted:
In an interest to consolidate calibers and brass, can I use .357 brass loaded with wadcutters, with .38 safe loads, in a .38 airweight revolver? I realize that I may have to have the cylinder reamed to accept .357 brass. Thanks View Quote Are you serious?? Ever hear of detonation? Why screw around with unknowns and risk blowing a good gun up. 38 brass is so cheap its near free. |
|
[#4]
So what happens when someone chambers a full power .357 Magnum and fires it?? You'll likey have a grenade in your hand.
|
|
[#5]
Quoted: In an interest to consolidate calibers and brass, can I use .357 brass loaded with wadcutters, with .38 safe loads, in a .38 airweight revolver? I realize that I may have to have the cylinder reamed to accept .357 brass. Thanks View Quote |
|
[#8]
I should have been more clear in my original post. I don't ever want to fire .357 rounds in a .38. Here's my situation, I have several .38 and .357 revolvers, and a .357 lever gun. What I want to do, in order to simplify, is to come up with a " universal" lead cast load that would split the difference between .38 and .357 that I could use for all my guns. Like say, 158gr wc at 1000fps that would fall in the range of my .38sp+p air weight and be good enough for my .357 revolvers and rifle. At 1000fps, my brass should last longer and I would only have to load one type of ammo. I should still get better or at least equal results of 147gr 9mm ammo at 950fps.
|
|
[#9]
I appreciate your response. I'm just asking for advice. I'm talking about using flush loaded wad cutters, so, the case should fit in a .38 cylinder, right?
|
|
[#10]
|
|
[#11]
First off, that is a silly reason to ream a 38spl. Some Airweights are stronger than some others. If it is a model 37, or even a no dash 642 or 442, I wouldn't even consider it; they have short cylinders. After 1996 Airweights starting getting the magnum length cylinders. Supposedly post 1996 Airweights with their longer cylinders are all test proof for pressures exceeding 357 magnum. However, that doesn't mean it is a wonderful idea to shoot magnums. This will cause excessive wear primarily to the top strap and frame based on what I have learned.
Now, I wanted a lightweight capable of shooting magnums just in case I were to need a reload and only find magnum shells floating around in my pocket, nightstand, or console. I did not want the delicate titanium cylinder of the 340 PD. The 360 or 340 M&P would have worked great, but they have been discontinued or at least hard to get. Besides they are pricey. Well, the 360j was offered at remarkably low prices for a while. This is the scandium Airweight with a steel cylinder in 38 spl. I reaserched extensively and just decided to call S&w. Much to my surprise they said all j frame cylinders now get the same heat proofing process. So when I asked if a 360j was capable of 357 magnum I was surprised to hear them say without a doubt. I then bought a 360j and had it reamed to 357 magnum. I have shot several dozen magnums thought it without issue. One of my best friends has done the same with a 360j. I was lucky to get a stainless cylinder while he got a carbon steel, but I don't think it really matters. The bottom line, the modern Airweights are strong enough to handle magnums; they are test proofed to levels exceeding 357 magnum. What model Airweight are you considering taking a reamer to? |
|
[#12]
Quoted:
I appreciate your response. I'm just asking for advice. I'm talking about using flush loaded wad cutters, so, the case should fit in a .38 cylinder, right? View Quote No, not even an empty 357 case will fit in a standard 38 spl cylinder. The cylinder must be reamed a little for the case to drop in regardless of the type bullet used. I understand what you are wanting to do. You are wanting one load for all you .357 caliber bores. Why not just load only 38spl? I doubt you will find that your rifle likes wad cutters anyway. |
|
[#13]
Why not sell your 38 Special J-frame and buy a 357 Mag J-frame? Probably would only be slightly more expensive but safer.
I also believe that all modern J-frames use the same length cylinder whether they are 38 or 357 so in theory your idea would work, but it could be dangerous depending on what frame you did it on. A steel frame J-frame could probably handle a 357 mag in a modified cylinder but an air weight frame probably would fail. The easiest solution is just to load both 38 and 357 ammunition... |
|
[#14]
Recent no lock 442. Again I want to stress that I am talking about using flush loaded wad cutters at .38 spl +p velocities, well below the cylinder length.
|
|
[#15]
I guess I'm wondering if anyone has done this, i.e. Reaming out the .38 cylinder to take .357 brass.
|
|
[#16]
|
|
[#17]
No one I know would admit to reaming a 38 to 357. Don't do it.
|
|
[#18]
Quoted:
I should have been more clear in my original post. I don't ever want to fire .357 rounds in a .38. Here's my situation, I have several .38 and .357 revolvers, and a .357 lever gun. What I want to do, in order to simplify, is to come up with a " universal" lead cast load that would split the difference between .38 and .357 that I could use for all my guns. Like say, 158gr wc at 1000fps that would fall in the range of my .38sp+p air weight and be good enough for my .357 revolvers and rifle. At 1000fps, my brass should last longer and I would only have to load one type of ammo. I should still get better or at least equal results of 147gr 9mm ammo at 950fps. View Quote A little more clarity goes a long way. My solution to this situation would be to focus load development on .38 special +P loads, loaded in .38 cases. Get them to a level of power that is safe in the pistol and as accurate as desired. Then hope those loads will perform acceptably in your rifle(s). That is what sort of "just happened" with the old 44-40 cartridges for example. You basically had one black powder charge and shot them in Colt SAAs and 1873 lever guns....and used some windage, hold, and or sight adjustments where possible. Flat nosed wadcutters in a 357 mag case will still be too long in a proper .38 special chamber to chamber. The cartridges WAS DESIGNED that way for a reason. |
|
[#19]
|
|
[#20]
The only reason I'm looking for a universal load I'd because the rifle chokes on .38 brass. It only works reliably on .357 brass.
|
|
[#21]
|
|
[#22]
Not trying to be difficult, really, but with flush loaded wadcutters, meaning that the bullet will not extend beyond the .357 case, and that there is still ample cylinder left, wouldn't this work if the loads were .38spl +p safe and the cylinder reamed to accept the longer .357 case length?
|
|
[#23]
I don't understand what you are asking now. Yes, a .357 wadcutter would be less OAL length than a RN 38spl, but that doesn't matter. Not even an empty 357 case will fit in a 38 spl cylinder. It's not the cylinder length that matters. Your 442-1 or 442-2 has the same cylinder length as my 640-1 or my 60-10, and both of them are factory 357 magnums. In 1996 Smith started building all the Airweights with magnum frames and the 38 spls got the same length cylinders as 357 magnums, but they weren't milled as deap. You can buy a magnum cylinder and as long as you use the existing hand it should keep in time.
I have had a 360j reamed to accept magnum cartridges. I will provide pictures or a video to however wants one tomorrow. I talked to countless gunsmiths and even S&W who said the gun was plenty capable of magnum cartridges. |
|
[#24]
Quoted:
Not trying to be difficult, really, but with flush loaded wadcutters, meaning that the bullet will not extend beyond the .357 case, and that there is still ample cylinder left, wouldn't this work if the loads were .38spl +p safe and the cylinder reamed to accept the longer .357 case length? View Quote it would work, until you had a brain fart, and stuffed a 357 magnum into it, and had a KABOOM |
|
[#26]
If you must really know if it is capable talk to this guy: http://www.tarnhelm.com/services/services.html
He has supposedly reamed thousands of 38 spls to 357. He will tell you which ones he knows is safe and which ones are not. Reaming is nothing new; back when revolvers ruled holsters and pockets it was not uncommon to hear of people with model 10's and model 36's reamed to magnums. I believe I have heard of Pinnacle reaming to magnums also. I know they will do a 38spl to 9x23 with moon clips which also allows about ten cartridges to be fired including 9mm. If I recall, the only one he is reluctant to do is pre-1981, pinned barrel j frames. |
|
[#27]
Thanks, again, I don't want to fire full house .357 magnum cartridges in a .38, just wanted to know if I could ream out the cylinders of my .38s to .357 length to fire .38 spl +p wadcutters loads out of .357 cases. Just trying to consolidate brass. Thanks again everyone for your advice.
|
|
[#28]
I guess the most obvious and easiest solution is to drop .38 spl altogether and replace with all .357 revolvers. Thanks again.
|
|
[#29]
NO,NO,NO
Please NO. How would you like to buy this weapon and fire a full blown 357 load?? primerhead |
|
[#30]
What you're wanting to do would work because all that would be required is for the .38 cylinder to be the length of .357 brass; then you could load flush seated wadcutters in 357 brass. But I don't know a smith in the world that would do it, and it would like be cost prohibitive anyhow.
A simpler solution would be to use all .38 Special brass rather than .357. Given that velocity and pressure are determined by how much of a bullet is IN the case, rather than how much is out, one could load mild .357 loads in .38 Special cases, that is loads that have an o.a.l. that is the same as a .357. The Lyman mould #358156 is designed with two crimp grooves making this possible. In fact "back in the day" this bullet was used in .38 Special cases to load heavy .38 loads that approached .357 loads in power. Too, these longer loads, even thought they're loaded in .38 Special brass, should function in your rifle because they'd have an o.a.l. reflective of the .357. So loaded however, they would not function in your .38 revolvers. If I were wanting to do this, I think I'd have Tom at www.accuratemoulds.com make me a custom mould with two crimp grooves .135" apart (that's the difference in length in a .38 Sp and .357 Mag case) that would allow loading .357 length rounds in .38 Special cases. The other crimp groove would be used for loading regular .38 Special ammunition. Sometimes you have to excuse the behavior of the boys on this forum. Some think they can't get a point across without behaving and talking like 13 year olds in a locker room. |
|
[#31]
Quoted:
What you're wanting to do would work because all that would be required is for the .38 cylinder to be the length of .357 brass; then you could load flush seated wadcutters in 357 brass. But I don't know a smith in the world that would do it, and it would like be cost prohibitive anyhow. View Quote If he has a 442-1 or newer from 1996 to current, his cylinder is the exact same length as a magnum j frame cylinder. He can ream it if he wants to and it will be plenty long enough for any factory loaded .357 magnum cartridge. |
|
[#32]
It's possible, if not very bright. I'd look into why your rifle won't feed .38 before going crazy on anything else.
|
|
[#33]
|
|
[#34]
Quoted:
I'm pretty sure the cylinder on a .38 wont close with the longer 357 brass in it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
I appreciate your response. I'm just asking for advice. I'm talking about using flush loaded wad cutters, so, the case should fit in a .38 cylinder, right? I'm pretty sure the cylinder on a .38 wont close with the longer 357 brass in it. Clearly you did not read the thread... Image deleted. Again, this is not GD. -- HS |
|
[#35]
EVERYONE: Please offer guidance, instruction, and correction respectfully. This is Tech, not GD. Last warning.
|
|
[#36]
Quoted:
If you must really know if it is capable talk to this guy: http://www.tarnhelm.com/services/services.html He has supposedly reamed thousands of 38 spls to 357. He will tell you which ones he knows is safe and which ones are not. Reaming is nothing new; back when revolvers ruled holsters and pockets it was not uncommon to hear of people with model 10's and model 36's reamed to magnums. I believe I have heard of Pinnacle reaming to magnums also. I know they will do a 38spl to 9x23 with moon clips which also allows about ten cartridges to be fired including 9mm. If I recall, the only one he is reluctant to do is pre-1981, pinned barrel j frames. View Quote This is what he seeks . It used to be common to ream some .38's to .357 magnum |
|
[#38]
I think the issue here has been well covered, but I think it bears emphasizing that while many things CAN be done, the real question is SHOULD it?
Personally, I think you are creating a problem where one doesn't exist. The value in having various guns is to use them for various purposes and by extension various loads. A 38 is what it is and it has value in doing what it does. A 357 (revolver and rifle) is a different beast. Downloading 357 for plinking is fine but to only use it for that and only that seems a bit of a waste. In that case, why not just stick with the 38 and load for it. On the other hand, if the 38 isn't meeting any need then maybe that's the one to get rid of and focus on plinker and hotter 357 loads as the situation demands. Personally, I'd leave the 38 alone and load some target loads with wadcutters. For the 357s I'd load some mid-range target loads and some hotter loads so you can practice with them. You can also shoot the 38s in the 357 if the mood strikes. |
|
[#39]
Seems to me the simplest, smartest, easiest thing to do would be to just load .38 Special, and either fix the lever gun or drop it for one that does feed .38's.
|
|
[#40]
Make the brass fit the cylinder, not the other way around. Other safe solutions have already been mentioned. The best being: buy a .357 revolver for ultimate versatility and this question becomes a non-issue.
|
|
[#41]
Quoted:
Yep. Colt from the 70s. http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah80/WHITE_W0LFE/DSC04496_zpsnoibk3ts.jpg http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah80/WHITE_W0LFE/DSC04509_zpsyegx5jby.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If you must really know if it is capable talk to this guy: http://www.tarnhelm.com/services/services.html He has supposedly reamed thousands of 38 spls to 357. He will tell you which ones he knows is safe and which ones are not. Reaming is nothing new; back when revolvers ruled holsters and pockets it was not uncommon to hear of people with model 10's and model 36's reamed to magnums. I believe I have heard of Pinnacle reaming to magnums also. I know they will do a 38spl to 9x23 with moon clips which also allows about ten cartridges to be fired including 9mm. If I recall, the only one he is reluctant to do is pre-1981, pinned barrel j frames. This is what he seeks . It used to be common to ream some .38's to .357 magnum Yep. Colt from the 70s. http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah80/WHITE_W0LFE/DSC04496_zpsnoibk3ts.jpg http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah80/WHITE_W0LFE/DSC04509_zpsyegx5jby.jpg Why on earth would someone want to do this? |
|
[#43]
Quoted:
Why on earth would someone want to do this? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
If you must really know if it is capable talk to this guy: http://www.tarnhelm.com/services/services.html He has supposedly reamed thousands of 38 spls to 357. He will tell you which ones he knows is safe and which ones are not. Reaming is nothing new; back when revolvers ruled holsters and pockets it was not uncommon to hear of people with model 10's and model 36's reamed to magnums. I believe I have heard of Pinnacle reaming to magnums also. I know they will do a 38spl to 9x23 with moon clips which also allows about ten cartridges to be fired including 9mm. If I recall, the only one he is reluctant to do is pre-1981, pinned barrel j frames. This is what he seeks . It used to be common to ream some .38's to .357 magnum Yep. Colt from the 70s. http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah80/WHITE_W0LFE/DSC04496_zpsnoibk3ts.jpg http://i1377.photobucket.com/albums/ah80/WHITE_W0LFE/DSC04509_zpsyegx5jby.jpg Why on earth would someone want to do this? Because it works on some revolvers. |
|
[#44]
Does your rifle feed the wadcutters in 357 cases?
Yes, you could get a reamer and make a 38 Special into a 357 Magnum. But it would be dangerous. There are a few revolvers out there that would be OK. Speer lists a load with 158 gr RN and SWC lead bullets at over 1000 fps in a 38 Special +P load. Power Pistol is used, with a 6 inch barrel. Try the cowboy 158 gr RNFP cast in the 38 Special for your rifle. Will probably work. There are also some 38 cast bullets designed to be loaded in 38 Special cases that will give the right COL for use in the lever rifles. |
|
[#45]
There are revolvers chambered in 38 special that can handle a diet of 357 magnum loads in 38 special brass. I had one that could handle it just fine. It was designed and built for that purpose.
Having said that, there is a reason the 357 cartridge came out. For me, it was not an issue, as I never did more than test fire the revolver, detail strip and a clean it, and retire it as a safe queen. After that, I could not bring myself to shoot that precious old gal. She was so beautiful. My hands would shake just about every time I held her. Note : This N Frame S&W 38/44 Outdoorsman Target was made in the early 1930's and was the father to the 357 magnum. |
|
[#46]
Quoted:
In an interest to consolidate calibers and brass, can I use .357 brass loaded with wadcutters, with .38 safe loads, in a .38 airweight revolver? I realize that I may have to have the cylinder reamed to accept .357 brass. Thanks View Quote no it is too much work for too little reward don't destroy a good 38 |
|
[#47]
Quoted:
I should have been more clear in my original post. I don't ever want to fire .357 rounds in a .38. Here's my situation, I have several .38 and .357 revolvers, and a .357 lever gun. What I want to do, in order to simplify, is to come up with a " universal" lead cast load that would split the difference between .38 and .357 that I could use for all my guns. Like say, 158gr wc at 1000fps that would fall in the range of my .38sp+p air weight and be good enough for my .357 revolvers and rifle. At 1000fps, my brass should last longer and I would only have to load one type of ammo. I should still get better or at least equal results of 147gr 9mm ammo at 950fps. View Quote I would load that with 38 brass. I do the same my 92 Rossi shoots it good and I don't worry about blowing up a 38 . |
|
[#48]
|
|
[#49]
I stand corrected.
Not something I'd personally do though, but it seems to be more possible than I originally thought. |
|
[#50]
IDK if this was posted already, but it's more about the OAL of the cartridge as far as reliable feeding goes, in a lever gun. Sounds like OP is looking for long loaded 38.
|
|
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.