Posted: 11/16/2014 4:52:16 PM EDT
[#3]
OP, Yeager had a recent video that created a stir (as many of his do). The best response I have read thus far is from Gunplumber/AZ Response Systems.
I have received several inquiries as to my position regarding a YouTube video on the Tapco G2 trigger group, apparently by some guy named James Yaeger (Sorry, I had never heard of him). Apparently, he posts a lot of stuff on Youtube and after several requests that I review and comment upon the video, I did, and here it is.
http://youtu.be/2LtWAyiQXB0?list=UUJimfyIOFM3Yaot_V8bFLPQ
He (the guy in the video) is an idiot who should not be analyzing trigger function, if he can't identify even identify the trigger components by name.
That being said, he is correct, the unmodified Tapco G2 is a dangerously defective design. I've been demonstrating this since they first came out.
The geometry is all wrong, and the result is, in many guns (including factory guns), an experienced shooter can get hammer follow and doubling.
In some receivers like the NDS-3, this problem is magnified, as the NDS-3 trigger hole is slightly low.
I say "experienced" shooter, because the best way to avoid it is to mash the trigger and then bounce your finger off to reset. But good trigger control will keep the disconnector from catching, which causes hammer follow.
I purchased around 500 sets for my Romy G production guns, and observed a pattern of failures. So I measured and tested several hundred G2 sets and determined the failure points. The cause is the hammer face is too short, so the bolt carrier doesn't push it back far enough in recoil. I developed a simple workaround that I now apply to all TAPCO triggers before even attempting to install them.
Lower disconnector shelf on hammer .020-.030" (Box cutter blade is .020"). A 4 degree downward angle helps. Increase disconnector engagement so the gap between the disconnector nose and the trigger claw is 80% of the hammer lobe width. ETA: With the trigger at rest, cam the hammer back. It should just miss the leading edge of the disconnector. The smaller the gap, the better. That's all.
Well, I also break the edges of the trigger face, polish off the mold lines, and bevel the engagement of the hammer claw, but that's for an improved trigger pull, not for safety.
My modifications take me about five minutes to perform. So while I would never put an unmodified TAPCO set in my gun, the corrections to the parts are simple enough for me, that I will a still accept them for customer builds. I prefer the Arsenal. While it still needs some tweaks for smooth function, it is drastically superior and well worth the few dollars more. ALL AK trigger groups may need fitting. This is a reality the manufacturers ignore. And yes, the Texas requires fitting too.
I provided this information free, but TAPCO chooses to continue blaming the user or the receiver.
I have never seen a failure of the sleeve. The part that connects the trigger to the disconnector. A slave pin is a short axle used to aid assembly of triggers that do not have the sleeve (large hole). There have also been other issues with specific runs of the G2, such as one where the disconnector spring hole was too deep. TAPCO replaced these units. I've also received defective units, such as no hole drilled, casting flaws, etc., but TAPCO replaced these units with no hassle.
Details of my trigger work are available in my AK Gunsmithing DVD and Workbook. http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/store/miscars/pagemiscars.shtml View Quote
Take it or leave it.
I have G2 triggers in two of my AKs. I am good with a dremel but do not clearly understand his directions to where I would feel confident modding mine to those precise dimensions, besides simply polishing it. I always carry a backup in my range bag, AK & AR, and will continue to run them.
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