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Posted: 1/30/2015 2:33:48 PM EDT
[#1]
Start here if you want to see what debanning involves , Ironwooddesigns.com has great furniture to replace the butthole stock with and if replace the grip and forward handgaurd that's 3 US parts plus a tapco (double hook) G2 trigger that's 6 parts, making you 922r compliant even if you add a muzzle break. Feel free to IM me with any quesitons.
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Posted: 1/31/2015 12:23:31 PM EDT
[#2]
Whatever you do, keep the Chinese trigger, hammer, & sear. There's none better on the planet. A Tapco mag is 3 US parts, & a lot easier to install than the trigger parts. Also if you look at photo's of Chinese soldiers holding Chinese AK's, you will see the barrels are not threaded, just like your MAK 90. Seems they threaded the barrels on AK's they exported to other countries. So wood from Ironwoods, & a Tapco mag, & you should be set. GARY
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Posted: 2/1/2015 2:40:21 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whatever you do, keep the Chinese trigger, hammer, & sear. There's none better on the planet. A Tapco mag is 3 US parts, & a lot easier to install than the trigger parts. Also if you look at photo's of Chinese soldiers holding Chinese AK's, you will see the barrels are not threaded, just like your MAK 90. Seems they threaded the barrels on AK's they exported to other countries. So wood from Ironwoods, & a Tapco mag, & you should be set. GARY Most 56's have a muzzle nuts instead of slant break. Also the tapco g2 is very simple to install and IMO it removes unnessecary reset length and slightly lightens the pull. I love the Chinese trigger but for $25 the g2 is amazing and an easy way to get 3 compliance part . I prefer to use what ever mags I have laying around and its a PIA to "make sure" sure have a US one. |
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Posted: 2/3/2015 11:01:46 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whatever you do, keep the Chinese trigger, hammer, & sear. There's none better on the planet. A Tapco mag is 3 US parts, & a lot easier to install than the trigger parts. Also if you look at photo's of Chinese soldiers holding Chinese AK's, you will see the barrels are not threaded, just like your MAK 90. Seems they threaded the barrels on AK's they exported to other countries. So wood from Ironwoods, & a Tapco mag, & you should be set. GARY OK so I am going to keep the Chinese Trigger and go with a US magazine. I will get the furniture from ironwoods. What next? Thanks everyone for the help! |
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Posted: 2/3/2015 11:02:04 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Most 56's have a muzzle nuts instead of slant break. Also the tapco g2 is very simple to install and IMO it removes unnessecary reset length and slightly lightens the pull. I love the Chinese trigger but for $25 the g2 is amazing and an easy way to get 3 compliance part . I prefer to use what ever mags I have laying around and its a PIA to "make sure" sure have a US one. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Whatever you do, keep the Chinese trigger, hammer, & sear. There's none better on the planet. A Tapco mag is 3 US parts, & a lot easier to install than the trigger parts. Also if you look at photo's of Chinese soldiers holding Chinese AK's, you will see the barrels are not threaded, just like your MAK 90. Seems they threaded the barrels on AK's they exported to other countries. So wood from Ironwoods, & a Tapco mag, & you should be set. GARY Most 56's have a muzzle nuts instead of slant break. Also the tapco g2 is very simple to install and IMO it removes unnessecary reset length and slightly lightens the pull. I love the Chinese trigger but for $25 the g2 is amazing and an easy way to get 3 compliance part . I prefer to use what ever mags I have laying around and its a PIA to "make sure" sure have a US one. I will not be threading the barrel. |
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Posted: 2/4/2015 4:03:22 PM EDT
[#6]
Make sure you get the right wood....check your receiver it may be slant cut like mine...
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Posted: 2/15/2015 9:52:41 AM EDT
[#7]
Doing the same. I'll ditch the norinco trigger. I always hear people rave but have never felt a stock trigger better than the G2 one of my sars. Debating about the ironwood straight or laminate. Anyone know a good source of ferrules for the pistol grip and butt plate? (That works with the ironwood?). Kvar or magpie likely are a pain to fit. I think my muzzle threading set will work because the die does look the right size and it looks to have enough meat on the muzzle. But it looks like only a crush washer will work. No hole for a retainer.
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Posted: 2/15/2015 11:45:06 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Doing the same. I'll ditch the norinco trigger. I always hear people rave but have never felt a stock trigger better than the G2 one of my sars. Debating about the ironwood straight or laminate. Anyone know a good source of ferrules for the pistol grip and butt plate? (That works with the ironwood?). Kvar or magpie likely are a pain to fit. I think my muzzle threading set will work because the die does look the right size and it looks to have enough meat on the muzzle. But it looks like only a crush washer will work. No hole for a retainer. There should be enough meat on your barrel. If you're unsure get the digital calipers out, .550 is usually the minimum but I have threaded barrels as thin as .546. You can drill a hole for a retaining pin in the FSB if you want, there are a few YouTube videos on it. |
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Posted: 7/12/2015 8:24:04 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Doing the same. I'll ditch the norinco trigger. I always hear people rave but have never felt a stock trigger better than the G2 one of my sars. Debating about the ironwood straight or laminate. Anyone know a good source of ferrules for the pistol grip and butt plate? (That works with the ironwood?). Kvar or magpie likely are a pain to fit. I think my muzzle threading set will work because the die does look the right size and it looks to have enough meat on the muzzle. But it looks like only a crush washer will work. No hole for a retainer. People will pay money for that norinco trigger... I've never felt a trigger that felt as good as a norinco or poly |
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Posted: 7/16/2015 10:42:33 PM EDT
[#10]
NOTHING beats an original Norinco trigger; unless you like grittiness or trigger slap.
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Posted: 7/17/2015 9:42:10 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
NOTHING beats an original Norinco trigger; unless you like grittiness or trigger slap. I have never had grittiness or strigger slap from a G2 |
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Posted: 7/22/2015 1:29:10 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have never had grittiness or strigger slap from a G2 Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: NOTHING beats an original Norinco trigger; unless you like grittiness or trigger slap. I have never had grittiness or strigger slap from a G2 +1 Tbr. Red Star > Tapco G2 > Factory Norinco I have owned all 3. All 3 are great. See above for my .02 from personal experience. |
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Posted: 7/29/2015 9:45:45 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There should be enough meat on your barrel. If you're unsure get the digital calipers out, .550 is usually the minimum but I have threaded barrels as thin as .546. You can drill a hole for a retaining pin in the FSB if you want, there are a few YouTube videos on it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Doing the same. I'll ditch the norinco trigger. I always hear people rave but have never felt a stock trigger better than the G2 one of my sars. Debating about the ironwood straight or laminate. Anyone know a good source of ferrules for the pistol grip and butt plate? (That works with the ironwood?). Kvar or magpie likely are a pain to fit. I think my muzzle threading set will work because the die does look the right size and it looks to have enough meat on the muzzle. But it looks like only a crush washer will work. No hole for a retainer. There should be enough meat on your barrel. If you're unsure get the digital calipers out, .550 is usually the minimum but I have threaded barrels as thin as .546. You can drill a hole for a retaining pin in the FSB if you want, there are a few YouTube videos on it. All my factory threaded barrels measure in the .546 - .550 range. If drilling for the retainer pin use the shortest drill bit you can get and pay particular attention when it breaks thru into the front FSB retaining pin channel so it doesn't shift. the shorter bit will have less flex than a longer one. Also set up the FSB as close to the quill as you can get it to minimize any runout on your drill press. I've done a few and stubby, screw-length cobalt bits make it easy. You may want to start with a center drill to spot the hole first then step drill to final size. Make sure you set your depth stop so you don't drill too deep. |
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Posted: 8/18/2015 2:28:30 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote Historythe tapco g2 is very simple to install and IMO it removes unnessecary reset length and slightly lightens the pull. I love the Chinese trigger but for $25 the g2 is amazing and an easy way to get 3 compliance part . I prefer to use what ever mags I have laying around and its a PIA to "make sure" sure have a US one. I agree on the mags. It would be ridiculous to risk being a felon simply because someone inserted the wrong magazine into the rifle. And I've got several non-US mags that fit and function better than the couple of Tapco mags that I have. On the "very simple to install" I'm not so sure. I've got the Tapco parts sitting in a box along with some decent US furniture. I don't know if they will be "simple to install" because I can't install them without first removing the original Chinese parts. Twice I've put the box on the table along with my Mak90 and both times I never got around to trying to install the replacement parts because I simply couldn't figure out how to remove the Chinese trigger and hammer. There are plenty of good explanations (both text with pics and videos) about how to remove and replace the AK trigger, but I have yet to find one that looks anything like the Mak90. They all seem to have the early step " Remove the safety. Just turn it so that it points up, and remove" which simply does not work on a Mak90 (at least not on my Norinco Mak90). I'm sure there are plenty of people shaking their heads and laughing at this point, but that's as far as I get |
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Posted: 8/18/2015 5:59:01 AM EDT
[#15]
if you do decide to thread it, I have the kit somewhere around here, i have lent it out a few times. PM me if you would like to borrow it.
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Posted: 8/18/2015 12:04:46 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Whatever you do, keep the Chinese trigger, hammer, & sear. There's none better on the planet. A Tapco mag is 3 US parts, & a lot easier to install than the trigger parts. Also if you look at photo's of Chinese soldiers holding Chinese AK's, you will see the barrels are not threaded, just like your MAK 90. Seems they threaded the barrels on AK's they exported to other countries. So wood from Ironwoods, & a Tapco mag, & you should be set. GARY Chicom triggers are pretty sweet out of the box, but If you polish the engagement area on just about any US made trigger, you can far exceed the feel of even a nicely broken in Chinese one. 
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Posted: 8/18/2015 10:01:17 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I agree on the mags. It would be ridiculous to risk being a felon simply because someone inserted the wrong magazine into the rifle. And I've got several non-US mags that fit and function better than the couple of Tapco mags that I have. On the "very simple to install" I'm not so sure. I've got the Tapco parts sitting in a box along with some decent US furniture. I don't know if they will be "simple to install" because I can't install them without first removing the original Chinese parts. Twice I've put the box on the table along with my Mak90 and both times I never got around to trying to install the replacement parts because I simply couldn't figure out how to remove the Chinese trigger and hammer. There are plenty of good explanations (both text with pics and videos) about how to remove and replace the AK trigger, but I have yet to find one that looks anything like the Mak90. They all seem to have the early step " Remove the safety. Just turn it so that it points up, and remove" which simply does not work on a Mak90 (at least not on my Norinco Mak90). I'm sure there are plenty of people shaking their heads and laughing at this point, but that's as far as I get Quote HistoryQuoted:
the tapco g2 is very simple to install and IMO it removes unnessecary reset length and slightly lightens the pull. I love the Chinese trigger but for $25 the g2 is amazing and an easy way to get 3 compliance part . I prefer to use what ever mags I have laying around and its a PIA to "make sure" sure have a US one. I agree on the mags. It would be ridiculous to risk being a felon simply because someone inserted the wrong magazine into the rifle. And I've got several non-US mags that fit and function better than the couple of Tapco mags that I have. On the "very simple to install" I'm not so sure. I've got the Tapco parts sitting in a box along with some decent US furniture. I don't know if they will be "simple to install" because I can't install them without first removing the original Chinese parts. Twice I've put the box on the table along with my Mak90 and both times I never got around to trying to install the replacement parts because I simply couldn't figure out how to remove the Chinese trigger and hammer. There are plenty of good explanations (both text with pics and videos) about how to remove and replace the AK trigger, but I have yet to find one that looks anything like the Mak90. They all seem to have the early step " Remove the safety. Just turn it so that it points up, and remove" which simply does not work on a Mak90 (at least not on my Norinco Mak90). I'm sure there are plenty of people shaking their heads and laughing at this point, but that's as far as I get Some of the safties can be a pain to get past the disonnector but it can be done. Make sure you have released the hammer, wiggle the disconnector while pressing up on the saftey. Apply some lube where the safety and disconnector meet. Sometimes you need to tap the safety switch with a soft faced mallet. |
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Posted: 9/7/2015 5:00:56 PM EDT
[#18]
Twice I've put the box on the table along with my Mak90 and both times I never got around to trying to install the replacement parts because I simply couldn't figure out how to remove the Chinese trigger and hammer. There are plenty of good explanations (both text with pics and videos) about how to remove and replace the AK trigger, but I have yet to find one that looks anything like the Mak90. They all seem to have the early step " Remove the safety. Just turn it so that it points up, and remove" which simply does not work on a Mak90 (at least not on my Norinco Mak90).
I ran into the same safety problem on my Norinco 56. The trick to removing the safety lever is to swing it down and around till it is straight up then just pull out. After installing the G2 trigger I could remove and install the Safety in the normal way. The G2 trigger pull was about the same as stock the but take up was much less Get one of these for easier trigger pins and safety install and removing... AK trigger pin retainer |
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Posted: 10/9/2015 12:22:26 PM EDT
[#19]
Compliance part count is FOR MANUFACTURER of firearm to sell....or from a parts kit....not during ownership once it's purchased, worrying about putting wrong mag in a rifle is like worrying about stepping on a crack and breaking your mother's back.
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Posted: 10/9/2015 5:30:11 PM EDT
[#20]
The Chicom trigger is the best factory trigger, bar none......that being said I am a fan of the ALG over all of them...even the RSA.
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Posted: 10/9/2015 5:30:11 PM EDT
[#21]
>>>>>
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Posted: 10/12/2015 3:58:19 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Compliance part count is FOR MANUFACTURER of firearm to sell....or from a parts kit....not during ownership once it's purchased, worrying about putting wrong mag in a rifle is like worrying about stepping on a crack and breaking your mother's back. 
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Posted: 10/13/2015 12:56:03 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Compliance part count is FOR MANUFACTURER of firearm to sell....or from a parts kit....not during ownership once it's purchased, worrying about putting wrong mag in a rifle is like worrying about stepping on a crack and breaking your mother's back. |
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Posted: 10/13/2015 1:52:36 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not sure how all those stern looks add to the conversation... But if it's what I think it means I'd suggest reading the rules for compliance.... Wording "manufacturer " is used not the word "upgrading" or "repairing" but if I'm wrong or missed something in the rule please educate me.....as a side note when I first bought my MAK I had all these same worries..included hearing about using a bon compliant mag..and how I either had to leave it just the way it was or do the full boat compliant part swap......but I'm not the manufacture ie: I didn't start with a bunch of metal parts and create a firearm. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Compliance part count is FOR MANUFACTURER of firearm to sell....or from a parts kit....not during ownership once it's purchased, worrying about putting wrong mag in a rifle is like worrying about stepping on a crack and breaking your mother's back. My apologies, I didn't intend for them to be "stern" looks. I used it because of the eyebrow raise, as in "I'm raising my eyebrow because I have not heard anyone say that before" (the emoji is technically described as "confused" face) Probably should have used this one instead: 
Granted, I haven't spent much time listening to folks talk about 922(r) either. I've just always heard everyone on arfcom talking about how to get compliant, I was shocked to see someone say it didn't matter. I've since been getting similar input as yours in my thread about a possible upcoming MAK trade. As for the 922(r) subject - I look at it this way: If the ATF says someone can "redesign" a firearm by shouldering a Sig brace, it stands to reason that swapping a butthole stock to a stock and pistol grip could be interpreted by them as "manufacturing". YMMV, but I just don't see the point in not making it 922(r) compliant if all it takes on a milled MAK is Ironwood furniture and US made followers for my mags. (I also understand that arrest, prosecution, proving I "manufactured" it, etc is a reach) |
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Posted: 10/13/2015 4:27:14 PM EDT
[#25]
Agreed WAR....check tapco for thier info on 922 they make more sense then most..bottom line one just needs to make sure you don't have more then 10 original parts..and they show the whole list. My point is 922 starts by stating manufacture or assembled from import parts.
Adding or swapping parts is not assembling. (except full auto parts...then your changing function of said firearm by change of parts ie: assembled full auto) bottom line the whole thing is boggling to the mind. |
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Posted: 10/24/2015 11:53:25 PM EDT
[#26]
You can't go wrong with an Ironwood set. He's my slant cut MAK 90 with an Ironwood Type 56 set that I did a Chicom Blonde shellac finish on.
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Posted: 10/26/2015 2:57:16 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You can't go wrong with an Ironwood set. He's my slant cut MAK 90 with an Ironwood Type 56 set that I did a Chicom Blonde shellac finish on. http://imageshack.us/a/img707/595/img0164001.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img685/9283/img0139ip.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img708/9652/img0148002.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img266/9241/img0278002.jpg That turned out really nice! Great job! Not to hijack the thread any further, but what wood did you go with? Did you do any stain, or is it 100% shellac? Is it amber shellac, or "clear" shellac? Thanks! |
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Posted: 10/27/2015 10:05:43 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That turned out really nice! Great job! Not to hijack the thread any further, but what wood did you go with? Did you do any stain, or is it 100% shellac? Is it amber shellac, or "clear" shellac? Thanks! Thank you. I wanted to replicate the original factory finish by using shellac mixed with dye. You can mix your own shellac. There are different kinds that will give you different color choices. The more coats you apply, the darker it gets. Try shellac.net and experiment with different dyes and/or pigment. |
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Posted: 10/27/2015 11:49:16 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thank you. I wanted to replicate the original factory finish by using shellac mixed with dye. You can mix your own shellac. There are different kinds that will give you different color choices. The more coats you apply, the darker it gets. Try shellac.net and experiment with different dyes and/or pigment. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
That turned out really nice! Great job! Not to hijack the thread any further, but what wood did you go with? Did you do any stain, or is it 100% shellac? Is it amber shellac, or "clear" shellac? Thanks! Thank you. I wanted to replicate the original factory finish by using shellac mixed with dye. You can mix your own shellac. There are different kinds that will give you different color choices. The more coats you apply, the darker it gets. Try shellac.net and experiment with different dyes and/or pigment. Thanks Sinatra. I've used Amber shellac flakes a lot in the past for guitar projects, and always thought it would probably look good on AK furniture. I did have concerns about durability though when cleaning. Does it "blush" with solvents? |
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Posted: 10/28/2015 12:02:55 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks Sinatra. I've used Amber shellac flakes a lot in the past for guitar projects, and always thought it would probably look good on AK furniture. I did have concerns about durability though when cleaning. Does it "blush" with solvents? I have been using shellac for years on my own furniture as well as on that of my customers. I have never experienced any blushing with any of the various cleaning solvents I've used. I have not had a single customer mention it to me either. I hope this helps. |
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Posted: 10/28/2015 1:29:52 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I have been using shellac for years on my own furniture as well as on that of my customers. I have never experienced any blushing with any of the various cleaning solvents I've used. I have not had a single customer mention it to me either. I hope this helps. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Thanks Sinatra. I've used Amber shellac flakes a lot in the past for guitar projects, and always thought it would probably look good on AK furniture. I did have concerns about durability though when cleaning. Does it "blush" with solvents? I have been using shellac for years on my own furniture as well as on that of my customers. I have never experienced any blushing with any of the various cleaning solvents I've used. I have not had a single customer mention it to me either. I hope this helps. Great to hear. Thanks for the info.
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Posted: 10/28/2015 8:49:35 PM EDT
[#32]
Alcohol will remove shellac.
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Posted: 1/7/2016 5:10:09 AM EDT
[#33]
Went with Ironwood and very impressed with the quality, the choices, and the helpfulness. I had mine done up in "Russian Red" on a Euro-type "plywood". Not really kosher for a Chinee rifle but sturdy and I like the look. Three coats of the finish did the trick. Dark and rich... I did leave the fore-grips in a solid zytel-like black material because it seems very solid and Ive seen smoke rising off wood foregrips before...never off this "plastic" so I left it be.
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