A member in another thread asked me about the barrel threading issue so I took a few pics to compare the PSAK to a SA-M7.

What it looks they did is they threaded the barrel after the front sight tower was installed instead of before like it should have been done. You can see the "hump" where what they used to thread it ended when it hit the front of the FS.

Contrast that to a normal AK and you can see how the threads are cut before the FS tower is installed. The threads go slightly into the FS tower. Same with my other AKs.

I remember when folks threaded AKs after the AWB sunset and if they did not remove the front sight they ended-up with that same hump and muzzle device timing issues.

I guess they could have threaded the barrel with the FS off but they cut the threads way too short....Fail either way it happened.

SA-M7 Top....PSAK bottom.



PSAK



SA-M7

easy fix, pull the FSB and thread it a few more turns.



 

Maybe for you and me but not so much for those without the proper tools to do a job that should have been done right at PSA in the first place. Hell as far as that goes I don't even have a 14-1 LH Muzzle Threading Die and it's a $30-odd tool nobody should really have to buy if the weapon is built properly.

Add to that (and something you are missing) is that the front sight tower is simply too far forward. Cutting away that hump would still not give you the length you need without moving back and repining the FS....You know drilling two new holes. Not a easy thing to do.

Hopefully going forward PSA will address the issue as it should be a simple fix during the manufacturing process.

Easy solution. Use dremel (everyone has dremel), and bevel your muzzle device threads if it won't go far enough to the FSB. Fixed. Unfortunately if you want a muzzle nut on the end it may look a bit funny w/o the proper length of threading. And an FYI if you're not already maxxed in your irritation with PSA you may need to dremmel your plunger pin -- mine wouldn't press flush with the front sight to allow my slant brake to get closer. Driving out the retainer pin was a nogo had to drill it part way to get it out. The rear pin came out easy (had to strip parts to replace HG retainer and gas block).

All in all, PSA needs better quality control, to sell these as they've been coming out, or add some more info as to what may be needed, to make the kits work. Their advertising does lead the uninitiated to think they will be putting together an AR kit, rather than a project that requires above average mechanical ability which 90% of the population lacks.

I liked the barreled receiver at just under 300 out the door, even with it's flaws but at this time I'd recommend most to stay away until PSA learns the Art of The AK.

Depending on how much material is left in front of the FSB journal will tell whether or not it can be threaded further. Sometimes the threading die runs into the OD of the FSB journal and won't cut any further until the FSB journal is turned down some to allow the die to cut.

Simply put you need to move the FSB back to get you the 1/4" worth of extra threads you need to properly index a muzzle device against the face of the FSB.

Removing the FSB, adding threads, then re-pinning the FSB will not really help anything unless you move the FSB back as you will still come up short on threads. Looks like you would only gain 1/32" worth of useable thread doing that. Still not enough.