User Panel
[#1]
Quoted:
I was thinking more along the lines of securing it into a stand and using a rather long string.. I will do some experimenting this weekend with the firing pin removed and live rounds and if I am still not satisfied I will get some gauges. View Quote Not completely proud to admit it but this is how I tested an SKS rebarrel that I did with no CIIP gauges, so I just used the infamous "tape trick" to get the bolt to mimic the same lockup behavior as another known good SKS with a set amount of tape strips on the primer face. WECSOG case dimension QC is not a strong point of most steel-case 7.62x39 ammo manufacture, so generally if the rifle chambers live rounds of varying types of steel case, and does not flatten the primers, you're probably GTG. |
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[#2]
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My AMD-63 top cover would not fit till I slightly tweaked the bottom rear of the cover out a bit. It did not take very much. Perfect fit now. Just be careful to "tweak" the top-cover in the center and not on the edges or you can crack it. About where the serial starts and ends in the pic is all you need to bend. http://oi61.tinypic.com/wtd7rn.jpg I agree, the hole for the drum is out of spec. PSA should install the FS parts even if it means a corresponding price increase. I foresee a lot of difficulties for those not used to building AKs and dealing with such things. One good thing is that there are a metric shit-ton of "how-to" AK build trouble-shooting posts on the net. My weapon went together pretty easy (less than a hour) but I know how to work with/on the little variances that came-up. It helped I had great high quality parts to work with, all either E. German MPi-KM or Hungarian AMD-63 parts left over from my build party days. BTW....PSA will send you the bolt parts. I went round-n-round with them on that issue yesterday. They shipped today. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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In the middle of my assembly. . . . Top cover doesn't come close to fitting. Too long, the nose is not square/consistantly formed, and the notch for the front trunnion is not right. Add in the rear is squeezed to far in, and it just isn't worth trying to fix. My AMD-63 top cover would not fit till I slightly tweaked the bottom rear of the cover out a bit. It did not take very much. Perfect fit now. Just be careful to "tweak" the top-cover in the center and not on the edges or you can crack it. About where the serial starts and ends in the pic is all you need to bend. http://oi61.tinypic.com/wtd7rn.jpg I agree, the hole for the drum is out of spec. PSA should install the FS parts even if it means a corresponding price increase. I foresee a lot of difficulties for those not used to building AKs and dealing with such things. One good thing is that there are a metric shit-ton of "how-to" AK build trouble-shooting posts on the net. My weapon went together pretty easy (less than a hour) but I know how to work with/on the little variances that came-up. It helped I had great high quality parts to work with, all either E. German MPi-KM or Hungarian AMD-63 parts left over from my build party days. BTW....PSA will send you the bolt parts. I went round-n-round with them on that issue yesterday. They shipped today. Do you have the optimal dimensions that it should be? I get .395 on the adjustment drum they sent, and the hole is maybe .380 at its max (harder to measure that accurately). The dust cover on mine won't fit either. It won't rest deep enough in the trunnion and when I bend the rear to get it to fit the recoil spring guide button barely grasps on to the hole. Oh well, guess I'll grind the front a little. |
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[#3]
A friend and I received 5 kits and two barreled receivers today, we built the receivers into complete guns tonight.
Parts that had to be fitted: -Front sight drum was too big(both rifles), I pinched it in a large c-clamp and sanded it down with a long, thin strip of sandpaper from several angles until it fit. This didn't take long, and I don't really see it as a big deal. A sight pusher is invaluable for this part. -firing pin did not move freely inside the bolt on either rifle, I felt it was tight enough to possibly cause a slam-fire without fitting. Had to remove material from the head of the firing pin with sandpaper until the tip moved freely in and out of the firing pin hole. This is a big deal imo, and was a huge pain in the ass to fit. - extractor pin on one rifle needed to be filed so that the firing pin retaining pin would fit through. - both top covers needed fitting, the rib on top shouldn't extend all the way to the receiver, where there's no room for it. One top cover had to be shortened a bit on a belt sander. - the retainer plate on both rifles needed filing to open up the slot that goes over the hammer pin. The bolt parts were missing from one of the five kits we received, no other parts were missing. ETA An assembled and tested bolt with each receiver would be great. I'd happily pay more for this. One of the rifles is a bit tight, the bolt has to be worked open and closed to loosen it up. It's a little bit tight in the magwell also. |
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[#4]
LOL....Yeah I think PSA has a ways to go before they make good on their claim that they will be better known for AK stuff than their AR stuff. I don't think that "better known" part they were talking about is going quite as they expected it to.
Jokes aside perhaps those of us that have built AKs from part kits and a flat back in the day are just too particular. |
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[#5]
922r. Is this just where the parts are made or is there some legal stuff I have to worry about. I would like to build an under folder.
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[#6]
Mine has gone together Ok so far. Hand guard/gas tube parts are way tight and need sanding/filing to fit. My bolt arrived complete, is smooth in travel, locking, and unlocking. Receiver cover is too tight and will likely need filing/sanding. I haven't touched the sights and I'm a bit scared to do so Pin retaining plate worked great and ALG trigger kit was easy, but I'll need to add the safety stop pin. Front sight is very straight. I'm impressed so far for a $480 AK.
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[#7]
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Mine has gone together Ok so far. Hand guard/gas tube parts are way tight and need sanding/filing to fit. My bolt arrived complete, is smooth in travel, locking, and unlocking. Receiver cover is too tight and will likely need filing/sanding. I haven't touched the sights and I'm a bit scared to do so Pin retaining plate worked great and ALG trigger kit was easy, but I'll need to add the safety stop pin. Front sight is very straight. I'm impressed so far for a $480 AK. View Quote Even with the issues(growing pains), if it shoots straight I would definitely buy another especially if they stay at $600 or below |
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[#8]
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Even with the issues(growing pains), if it shoots straight I would definitely buy another especially if they stay at $600 or below View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Mine has gone together Ok so far. Hand guard/gas tube parts are way tight and need sanding/filing to fit. My bolt arrived complete, is smooth in travel, locking, and unlocking. Receiver cover is too tight and will likely need filing/sanding. I haven't touched the sights and I'm a bit scared to do so Pin retaining plate worked great and ALG trigger kit was easy, but I'll need to add the safety stop pin. Front sight is very straight. I'm impressed so far for a $480 AK. Even with the issues(growing pains), if it shoots straight I would definitely buy another especially if they stay at $600 or below Same here, just wish they would tweak a couple of things here and there. Tried to attach a bayonet today, and apparently that needs to be fitted as well. |
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[#9]
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Same here, just wish they would tweak a couple of things here and there. Tried to attach a bayonet today, and apparently that needs to be fitted as well. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Mine has gone together Ok so far. Hand guard/gas tube parts are way tight and need sanding/filing to fit. My bolt arrived complete, is smooth in travel, locking, and unlocking. Receiver cover is too tight and will likely need filing/sanding. I haven't touched the sights and I'm a bit scared to do so Pin retaining plate worked great and ALG trigger kit was easy, but I'll need to add the safety stop pin. Front sight is very straight. I'm impressed so far for a $480 AK. Even with the issues(growing pains), if it shoots straight I would definitely buy another especially if they stay at $600 or below Same here, just wish they would tweak a couple of things here and there. Tried to attach a bayonet today, and apparently that needs to be fitted as well. I won't knock PSA for that as bayonets often have to be fitted. A few strokes with a bastard file on the top flat of the lug fixed that. Most "raw" lugs need a bit of fitting and that's why many countries had AK bayonets fitted/numbered to the weapon. |
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[#10]
A file and a millimeter removed from the front of the cover fixed it up nice for me. Had to file down the front of the top handguard to be able to lock the retainer also.
Edit. No, I meant bottom handguard |
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[#11]
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922r. Is this just where the parts are made or is there some legal stuff I have to worry about. I would like to build an under folder. View Quote "922r" is part of federal law. Here is a link to a worksheet for how to approach this - http://www.gunwiki.net/Gunwiki/BuildAkVerifyCompliance Harlan NoDak Spud LLC |
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[#12]
Hmm.
I think I'll hold off until next year, hopefully they get these ironed out by then. Maybe they'll even have some new models. |
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[#13]
Anyone shoot theirs this weekend? I will have to wait until next week, no spare bolt parts(will fix that with the next parts order).
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[#14]
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"922r" is part of federal law. Here is a link to a worksheet for how to approach this - http://www.gunwiki.net/Gunwiki/BuildAkVerifyCompliance Harlan NoDak Spud LLC View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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922r. Is this just where the parts are made or is there some legal stuff I have to worry about. I would like to build an under folder. "922r" is part of federal law. Here is a link to a worksheet for how to approach this - http://www.gunwiki.net/Gunwiki/BuildAkVerifyCompliance Harlan NoDak Spud LLC Hey HarlanNDS, These Palmetto receivers look pretty nice. Did Palmetto source them from you? |
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[#15]
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Anyone shoot theirs this weekend? I will have to wait until next week, no spare bolt parts(will fix that with the next parts order). View Quote I've got a couple thousand rounds inbound, should be able to test fire mine next weekend. ETA couldn't wait, went and fired off about 200 rnds today. Functioned 100%, accuracy was on par with my other ak builds. |
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[#16]
Waited a bit to post as I was still putting the parts together.....
Got my PSAK barreled receiver early last week, and used an EG kit to put it together. Pressed on the EG gas block and front sight, and put on the EG lower HG retainer with sling loop. Everything went together OK, and I test fired it just a few minutes ago with no problems. I did not use the PSA bolt as I just could not get the thing to work. Used the bolt from the EG kit, head spaced OK, and have that in the rifle instead. Now just have to drill and re pin the gas block and fsb and it will be complete. |
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[#17]
so I am on the fence does anyone know if they fixed the threads on the barrel yet?
thinking about ordering the barrel receiver, on their video they said it was all nitro coated that is good news |
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[#18]
Finally got the parts I was missing and shot mine, It functioned flawlessly, and is 100% reliable. I would buy another in a heartbeat if my wife would let me.
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[#19]
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[#20]
WHY are people talking about 922r with these 100% American made rifles??? 922r is a standard for imported rifles or for rifles built from foreign parts. If there are no foreign parts on these rifles, 922 does not apply. Orrrr are people finishing them with foreign kit parts? If so, then that is something that was built here and not imported, no?
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[#21]
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WHY are people talking about 922r with these 100% American made rifles??? 922r is a standard for imported rifles or for rifles built from foreign parts. If there are no foreign parts on these rifles, 922 does not apply. Orrrr are people finishing them with foreign kit parts? If so, then that is something that was built here and not imported, no? View Quote They aren't 100% US made. PSA has contracted overseas companies to produce some parts. |
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[#22]
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A friend and I received 5 kits and two barreled receivers today, we built the receivers into complete guns tonight. Parts that had to be fitted: -Front sight drum was too big(both rifles), I pinched it in a large c-clamp and sanded it down with a long, thin strip of sandpaper from several angles until it fit. This didn't take long, and I don't really see it as a big deal. A sight pusher is invaluable for this part. -firing pin did not move freely inside the bolt on either rifle, I felt it was tight enough to possibly cause a slam-fire without fitting. Had to remove material from the head of the firing pin with sandpaper until the tip moved freely in and out of the firing pin hole. This is a big deal imo, and was a huge pain in the ass to fit. - extractor pin on one rifle needed to be filed so that the firing pin retaining pin would fit through. - both top covers needed fitting, the rib on top shouldn't extend all the way to the receiver, where there's no room for it. One top cover had to be shortened a bit on a belt sander. - the retainer plate on both rifles needed filing to open up the slot that goes over the hammer pin. The bolt parts were missing from one of the five kits we received, no other parts were missing. ETA An assembled and tested bolt with each receiver would be great. I'd happily pay more for this. One of the rifles is a bit tight, the bolt has to be worked open and closed to loosen it up. It's a little bit tight in the magwell also. View Quote I've had the same problems assembling my bolt. Firing pin won't move and extractor pin wouldn't fit. I still can't get my retainer plate to go on either. I haven't tried fitting any of the parts since I have a feeling I'll mess it up. I finally got the muzzle break that was missing from the original parts kit and it won't thread on. This thing is a huge pain in the ass and I wish I wouldn't have bought it. |
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[#23]
My barreled receiver didn't contain a front sight and the kit to complete a rifle didn't either. Seems I have a generation 1 barreled receiver and a generation 2 kit so I don't have a front sight post. And the generation 1 kit is not available any more. That's what they told me. Ordered some stuff from RTG Parts so they have it for 7.95. I won't be bothering Palmetto State Armory any more. I'll shop elsewhere.
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[#24]
My bolt won't go into battery on mine. It gets to where the bolt face touches the barrel and then stops. Anybody know why this might be?
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[#25]
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My bolt won't go into battery on mine. It gets to where the bolt face touches the barrel and then stops. Anybody know why this might be? View Quote Most likely tight Head Space. Does it close all the way if you let the carrier slam forward? If not, send it back. If you can chamber rounds and fire, your HS may open up a few ten thousandths at first firing, and may function great. |
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[#26]
Quoted:
Most likely tight Head Space. Does it close all the way if you let the carrier slam forward? If not, send it back. If you can chamber rounds and fire, your HS may open up a few ten thousandths at first firing, and may function great. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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My bolt won't go into battery on mine. It gets to where the bolt face touches the barrel and then stops. Anybody know why this might be? Most likely tight Head Space. Does it close all the way if you let the carrier slam forward? If not, send it back. If you can chamber rounds and fire, your HS may open up a few ten thousandths at first firing, and may function great. I can work it in if I hit it just right. Then I need a hammer to get it back out. |
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[#27]
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I can work it in if I hit it just right. Then I need a hammer to get it back out. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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My bolt won't go into battery on mine. It gets to where the bolt face touches the barrel and then stops. Anybody know why this might be? Most likely tight Head Space. Does it close all the way if you let the carrier slam forward? If not, send it back. If you can chamber rounds and fire, your HS may open up a few ten thousandths at first firing, and may function great. I can work it in if I hit it just right. Then I need a hammer to get it back out. I think he meant when you pull the bolt carrier back to charge it and release it, does it chamber a round and lock up tight? |
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[#28]
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I think he meant when you pull the bolt carrier back to charge it and release it, does it chamber a round and lock up tight? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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My bolt won't go into battery on mine. It gets to where the bolt face touches the barrel and then stops. Anybody know why this might be? Most likely tight Head Space. Does it close all the way if you let the carrier slam forward? If not, send it back. If you can chamber rounds and fire, your HS may open up a few ten thousandths at first firing, and may function great. I can work it in if I hit it just right. Then I need a hammer to get it back out. I think he meant when you pull the bolt carrier back to charge it and release it, does it chamber a round and lock up tight? Not reliably, it's almost like I've got to tilt it into place. |
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[#29]
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Not reliably, it's almost like I've got to tilt it into place. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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My bolt won't go into battery on mine. It gets to where the bolt face touches the barrel and then stops. Anybody know why this might be? Most likely tight Head Space. Does it close all the way if you let the carrier slam forward? If not, send it back. If you can chamber rounds and fire, your HS may open up a few ten thousandths at first firing, and may function great. I can work it in if I hit it just right. Then I need a hammer to get it back out. I think he meant when you pull the bolt carrier back to charge it and release it, does it chamber a round and lock up tight? Not reliably, it's almost like I've got to tilt it into place. That's a tough one, mine would reliable lock up, but take a mallet or foot stomp to release, I shot it and it loosened up immeadiately. I understand how painful it is to send it back and wait for it to be returned when all you want to do is shoot it. |
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[#30]
If it can chamber a round normally, I'd chance firing it (in an appropriate place). Without actually seeing it in person, I can't actually recommend you do this, you'll need to use your own discretion. In your case I'd make sure that a round will chamber, by stripping rifle, remove hammer (or cock it and put safety to safe) to prevent serious danger condition, put round in bolt and attempt chamber and rotate bolt into position, using your fingers and no carrier - should be no resitance. If it works, take it out, reassemble and it should be safe to fire. You won't void the warranty by firing it. Get Headspace gauges, all three, to keep an eye on things in the future.
DO NOT DROP HAMMER WHILE CHECK IF ROUND WILL CHAMBER W/O RESISTANCE. |
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[#31]
I did as you said with a new unfired unprimed case and it chambered smoothly with no resistance but no lost motion either just using the bolt head. So headspace should be fine. Mine is difficult as well all parts assembled. It takes bumping with a screwdriver handle sideways on the cocking lever to open it. So I am thinking it will take some shooting to smooth it up. I will secure it in a stand or on something and fire it remotely for the first several shots.
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[#32]
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I can work it in if I hit it just right. Then I need a hammer to get it back out. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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My bolt won't go into battery on mine. It gets to where the bolt face touches the barrel and then stops. Anybody know why this might be? Most likely tight Head Space. Does it close all the way if you let the carrier slam forward? If not, send it back. If you can chamber rounds and fire, your HS may open up a few ten thousandths at first firing, and may function great. I can work it in if I hit it just right. Then I need a hammer to get it back out. I have had the same type of problem with mine, so I ordered a headspace gauge and it checked out ok. Then I tried putting the carrier from my WASR-10 in it with the PSA bolt and it seemed to work a lot smoother. Is there a possibility the channel in the carrier is improperly milled? |
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[#34]
Gas tube ends on not even with each other. won't let lock turn in place. Will call them Monday.
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[#37]
Quoted: Not completely proud to admit it but this is how I tested an SKS rebarrel that I did with no CIIP gauges, so I just used the infamous "tape trick" to get the bolt to mimic the same lockup behavior as another known good SKS with a set amount of tape strips on the primer face. WECSOG case dimension QC is not a strong point of most steel-case 7.62x39 ammo manufacture, so generally if the rifle chambers live rounds of varying types of steel case, and does not flatten the primers, you're probably GTG. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I was thinking more along the lines of securing it into a stand and using a rather long string.. I will do some experimenting this weekend with the firing pin removed and live rounds and if I am still not satisfied I will get some gauges. Not completely proud to admit it but this is how I tested an SKS rebarrel that I did with no CIIP gauges, so I just used the infamous "tape trick" to get the bolt to mimic the same lockup behavior as another known good SKS with a set amount of tape strips on the primer face. WECSOG case dimension QC is not a strong point of most steel-case 7.62x39 ammo manufacture, so generally if the rifle chambers live rounds of varying types of steel case, and does not flatten the primers, you're probably GTG. Both builds were GTG |
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[#38]
Quoted: Even with the issues(growing pains), if it shoots straight I would definitely buy another especially if they stay at $600 or below View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Mine has gone together Ok so far. Hand guard/gas tube parts are way tight and need sanding/filing to fit. My bolt arrived complete, is smooth in travel, locking, and unlocking. Receiver cover is too tight and will likely need filing/sanding. I haven't touched the sights and I'm a bit scared to do so Pin retaining plate worked great and ALG trigger kit was easy, but I'll need to add the safety stop pin. Front sight is very straight. I'm impressed so far for a $480 AK. Even with the issues(growing pains), if it shoots straight I would definitely buy another especially if they stay at $600 or below I love my PSA stuff, the AKs have much to be desired. |
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[#39]
Just fired my PSA with Midwest Industries 2 chamber muzzle brake and Tapco trigger. No problems.
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[#40]
I had to swap carriers around also. The PSA carrier slot where the bolt travels is a hair undersize. Dunno if it's the coating or manufactured a little tight.
I ran my gun with a spare carrier to break it all in, then switched it back to the PSA carrier. All is good to go now. Headspace is fine, just the bolt binds a little at first in the carrier. Bolt barely closed on a Go gauge when assembled, still barely closes on the Go gauge. With that said, PSA might want to add another QC step and catch this. I saw someone in the Internet took sandpaper to their bolt to get it closed...... |
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[#41]
It's been quite a while since there were any barreled receivers for sale. Makes me wonder what the future holds. I am glad to have gotten a good one. May be collector items one day? Problem is, I can't wait. I'm over 70 now! Oh well.
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[#42]
How are y'all fitting the top cover? Mine doesn't allow the recoil rod tab to latch in the back hole of the top cover, almost like it is too long and/or too high. Also, it appears that the front of the cover is not completely flush against the rear sight block, more so at the area that meets the receiver.
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[#43]
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How are y'all fitting the top cover? Mine doesn't allow the recoil rod tab to latch in the back hole of the top cover, almost like it is too long and/or too high. Also, it appears that the front of the cover is not completely flush against the rear sight block, more so at the area that meets the receiver. View Quote Mine was too long also, I believe they are all too long. But I prefer this to too loose..... What I did: remove recoil, carrier, bolt, etc. the front of the cover goes into the circular cutout for it lower the rear and see how much too long it is I slowly started removing metal equally from the front of the cover until the rear goes into its proper place on the rear trunnion. (some are also twisted slightly, helps keep a snug fit once it snaps into place) A new cover is $20 if you need to try again, a used one can be found for $10. |
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[#44]
I did the same thing. I only removed metal from the upper portion of the cover that go's in the semicircle cut out. That way the finish on the exposed lower front edge of the cover has the dark finish on it and is not shiny. I used a Dremmel tool with a rock, worked very slowly and finished the cut surface with a rubber polishing wheel. The stock was a little too tight also so I dressed down the sides that slide in the receiver rear with a bastard cut file. The technique is to go slow and check for fit often.
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