So instead of doing the full front end conversion on the saiga 74 I wanna run the zukov magpul handguard because I dont need the handguard retainer but wanna replace the front sigh so I can run a detent fsb with a real 74 brake, I should be able to push he pins out since it's not dimpled and am wondering if I could beat off the stock front sight with a hammer/rubber mallet and reinstall the new izhmash fsb 24mm threaded fsb and re-pin, the pins should line up. wouldnt consider doing this with gas block with a hammer but the front sight should be possible, correct? If this is a way to go would I just wrap the barrel in leather and stick in a vice and pound away?

Maybe not such a good idea?

I don't know how hard the pinned Saiga FSB is to get off. Mine was dimpled and had to be cut off. But getting the 24 mm FSB on isn't difficult at all.

To be blunt, your grammar sucks, so people probably have been passing over your post since it is hard to understand.

Once you drive the pins out, you definitely can get the front sight base off with a hammer.  I would advise using a dead blow hammer, or worst case a block of wood and a regular hammer.

You can also repeat the process to put the new one on.  Pressing the base on will be better, but it can be done with a hammer and a block of wood. There is no guarantee that the pin holes will line up.  You may have to re-drill, which is what I had to do when I installed a 22MM front sight base on my SAR 2 many years ago.

Ok thanks I will take more time when typing. I hear bulgarian fsb 24mm USUALLY lines up in the pin holes, but if I have to can I just get the new fsb on and use a hand drill if I drill straight using a cobalt bit, and reuse the old pins?

I have removed and installed two FSBs and Gas Blocks. Both needed some pretty good hammering to get off and on... I have used wood and brass for the hammering. Both are softer than the steel. It is an advantage (in my opinion) that they fit so tightly though, as you can get them into position, then beat them straight, and they will stay in position while you drill. I always redrill for 1/8th inch pins and just use a bench vise to press the pins in nice and smoothly.

As far as getting it straight, that's the tricky part (depending on how much of a perfectionist you are). I always use a helper, and get the rifle level in the vise (I use an actual level across the top of the reciever) then I use a laser level, set up to project a vertical line and shine the laser down across the top of the rifle, and make sure it is straight and centered in the muzzle, all the way to the rear tang. Usually I can see the beam also coming out of the chamber end of the barrel too. That means it's pretty damn straight (less than 7.62mm of deviation in the length of the barrel). I then tap the block until it is straight with this laser line, drill and pin there. Both times I used this method, I have required less than around 5" of windage adjustment at 100 yards to get the rifle sighted in. It works good enough for me, although it is somewhat time consuming.

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