In this tutorial, you will be shown how to convert a
standard SAIGA rifle back to a standard 100 series rifle while using basic
tools most people have around the house. Basically, I did not use a press.

If anyone has an easier way to do something, please add it as a write up below and I will supplement this tutorial with your write, credited to you of course.



from this:



to this:



(pics from web, I believe the gorgeous 74 pic belongs to combloc customs)

<span style="font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;">Part I

Tools you will need:

<span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·        
  Hammer

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·        
  Punch set ( get the ones with longer necks)
  
  

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·        
  Dremel (with cut off wheels, make sure you have plenty on hand, they tend to break easily)

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·      Variable speed drill, or drill press (drill
  press is recommended)

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·        
  Center punch

•  Quality drill bits (spend the extra $, it's worth it)

•  Safety Glasses
  
  

Items you will need:


(I use take-off parts for the ease of reinstall. Important to note that some take-off parts may need to have rivets removed prior to re-installation. This tutorial will only cover using take-off parts)

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·        
  Stock SAIGA rifle

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·        
  Fire control group

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·        
  Retaining plate or shepherds crook

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·        
  Standard stock set (upper and lower hand guards, pistol grip, buttstock)

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·         gas tube (74 type)
  
  

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·        
  Cleaning rod (if your rifle did not come with
  one)

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·        
  74 front site block with compensator

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·        
  Lower hand guard retainer

• <span style="font-family:Symbol;mso-fareast-font-family:Symbol;mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol"><span style="mso-list:Ignore">·        
  1000m Russian or Bulgarian rear site

•  Rivet set ( I buy mine from akbuilder.com)

•  Dimpled mag catch

The SAIGA I picked up was used by the importer as a parts donor, so it was missing everything except the receiver, barrel, rear site block, and gas block. I sourced all the parts a long time ago for another conversion, and just happened to have an extra AK-74 Bolt and carrier that were numbers matching. I will need to headspace the rifle though prior to shooting.

<span style="font-size: 10pt; font-weight: bold;">De-milling the rear of the rifle:



If you have ever done a conversion before, these next steps
will be familiar.



The first process we will go through will be converting the
rear of the rifle. The process I used for removing the stock SAIGA trigger is only
slightly different than the other tutorials out there. We will not be re-using
the stock trigger guard, and we will be removing the stock mag catch assembly.





Break down the rifle, or field strip it:

• Remove the dust cover, pull out recoil spring and bolt carrier with bolt. You do not need to remove the gas tube at this point, but you may because it will be removed when we get to the barrel components.

• Remove the rear stock and handguard from the rifle. Save the screws from the buttstock, you will be re-using them.
  
  

Removing factory trigger:



I used a drill press for this process, but a hand drill will work just fine.

• Secure the rifle with the right side facing up. This is the side that you will drill on.

• Using a bit that covers the head of the pins (I used a 1/4" bit) slowly drill away the flared ends of the pins. Go slow, we do not want to bite into the receiver, just remove the flared ends of the pins.

• Using a punch and a hammer, punch out both of the pins. Sometimes they stick in the trigger mechanisms, just keep tapping, the metal of the pins is pretty soft and it will push through.

• 
  Go ahead a remove all the internals at this point. Most of the trigger components should come right out. Once you have removed the shepherds crook, you can take the hammer and disconnector retaining pins out.

• I save the hammer, hammer spring, disconnector, and disconnector spring in my spare parts. You never know when you might need extras. These items also fall under the category of parts you can sell after the build to help recoup some of your monies.
  
  

<span style="font-size: 8pt; font-weight: bold;">Removing the factory trigger guard and plate:



This is the process that gave me the most anxiety the first time I did a conversion. It's pretty nerve racking taking a Dremel to a perfectly good rifle and start tearing it up. We spend so much time making sure we don't ever scratch our weapons, this just seems to go against our grain. However, it's a must do, so take comfort in the fact that thousands of SAIGAS have had this done to them.

• Place the rifle upside down with the trigger guard facing up. Take note of the rivets in the following pictures that we will be removing. the rivet directly under the trigger guard will be the last one removed.

• I started on the rear rivet first (you can start on the rivet directly behind the mag catch if you want. Either way it doesn't matter). I grind the rivets flush with the plate or the trigger guard extension. You may also just dremel a flat spot in the rivet head and the use your drill press to remove the rest of the rivet head. Again, it's important to not go too far, we do not want to eat into the receiver, especially if you chose to use the drill. Now take your punch out and punch the two rivets put. Your results should look like the pic below.
  
  

• Once the rivets in the rear and behind the trigger guard are ground smooth or drilled, we can move onto the rivet under the trigger guard. In my pics below, you will see that I just bent the factory trigger guard up in order to get it out of my way. If you wish to keep the factory trigger guard, there is a weld near the rivet head by the mag catch that will need to be drilled out before you can remove it. Now that the trigger guard is out of your way, go ahead and grind this rivet head flush with the plate like was done with the other 2 rivets. When this is done, use your punch to remove the rivet. Once the third, center rivet is removed, the plate will come off.
  
  

• Removing the mag catch. Using the Dremel, we will  now grind the mag catch rivets flush with the top of the mag catch. It's important to go slow here, especially if your new trigger guard set did not come with the selector plate.

• Once the rivets are ground flat on both sides, we get the hammer and punch out again. These rivets are probably the hardest part of the whole process and usually take some pounding to remove. I also used my drill press to help get these rivets out. Once these rivets are removed, set the mag catch and selector plate to the side. The mag catch I keep also. If your trigger guard did not come with a dimpled mag catch, you can demil the factory mag catch and use it to make the rifle more authentic to the 100 series. A note of caution, replace the mag catch before you rivet it on the rifle, the spring is a huge PITA to deal with, even more so after the trigger guard is riveted on.  
  
  

This completes the demil process for the rear of the rifle.

<span style="font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;">Part II

Demilling the barrel components:

The process of demilling the barrel components is probably the easiest part of the whole project in my opinion. It's also the part that can make or break the conversion. If one doesn't take time they can mar the barrel and it will not look good. So go slow and check often. The first thing to do is to identify which type of barrel component you have. There are two types, pinned and pressed (side dimples). The pinned is typical for older model SAIGAS, the pressed (side dimples) is typical for the newer models.



Removing the Front Site Block:

(models with non threaded barrels) (I have never done a conversion on a SAIGA that had the barrel threaded from the factory. Someone who has, please chime in! This tutorial is only for non factory threaded barrels at this time )

• Depending on which type of barrel components you have depends on how you remove them. The quickest and easiest method is to buy a SAIGA with the pinned on components. 99% of the rifles I have converted that were pinned had the take-off components match up perfectly. For those that have the pressed (side dimples) barrel components, it takes a little more effort.
  
  

• For a pinned front site block, simply get a punch of the right size and punch out the pins. Next I use a rubber mallet and start to hit the front site on one side. As it spins around the barrel, it also starts to twist off. You can also use a piece if 2x4 to brace behind the front site and hit that with a hammer until it comes off. Sometimes these parts can be on there really good, and since we will not be re-using them, you can use the dremel and cut off wheel to run a line down the side to help relieve pressure on the component. This is where you need to be very careful. If the wheel jumps, you will mar the barrel.
  
  

• For a pressed (side dimples) front site, you will need to start off by drilling out the dimples (I used the 1/4" bit again for this). You want to be careful not go too far, even though the barrel is dimpled under the front site block. I drill until I start to feel resistance then back off. You will need to hit all 4 dimples. Once the dimples have been drilled out, use a rubber mallet and start to hit the front site on one side. As it
  spins around the barrel, it also starts to twist off. You can also use a
  piece if 2x4 to brace behind the front site and hit that with a hammer
  until it comes off. Sometimes these parts can be on there really good,
  and since we will not be re-using them, you can use the Dremel and cut
  off wheel to run a line down the side to help relieve pressure on the
  component. I do save what's left over of the front site block because it has an extra site drum and site that could always come in handy someday.
  
  

I forgot to take pic during process, but here's the block on a barrel stub



Removing the Gas Block:

Removing the gas block is the same procedure as removing the front site block with the exception of on the pressed (side dimples) gas block, there will be one pin that is installed to hold the handguards in place. Use your punch to remove this pin. Try not to bend it, it's almost the length of 2 pins and can be re-used to pin the new barrel components. Follow the same steps as listed above in the section for removing the front site block. Note, it may seem like you will have to push the gas block the whole length of the rifle, but you won't. The barrel is stepped at the gas block and after you push it past that step it will slide right off.

When the front site and gas block are removed, this is what you should see.



This completes the de-mil process of the barrel components.

<span style="font-size: 10pt; font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;">PART III

<span style="font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-size: 8pt;">Installing new Barrel Components:



The process of installing the barrel components is probably the easiest part of the installation process in my opinion. Even without using a press, the process takes little more than 10 minutes to mount the barrel components. If you have the pinned SAIGA, it could be even fatser. If you have the pressed (side dimples) SAIGA, you will need to drill 3 pin holes to secure the barrel components.



Installing the lower handguard retainer:

• This is the 1st thing you need to do before adding any other barrel components. There are 2 things that need to be done here:

          1. Check to see if your barrel is milled for the lower handguard retainer slots.

<div style="margin-left: 40px;">
If you do not have the milled slots for the lower handguard retainer, don't fret! There is an easy fix for that. The slots are not necessary to hold the lower handguard in place. Like the Galil lower handguard, you can mill out the slots and still have it do it's job. I had 2 retainers, so I milled one out to show you what I mean.

with slots:



without slots:



<div style="margin-left: 40px;">I used a grinding stone on my Dremel to cut the slots out. You will need to test fit the retainer after cutting the slots to ensure it fits easily. When the lower handguard is in place, and the gas tube is in place, the retainer will not be able to spin around the barrel. Having the slots is nice insurance though, and add rigidity to the lower handguard, but isn't necessarily a must.

         2. Next you will need to file in the divot for the lever on the lower handguard retainer. I used a cheap round file I bought at harbor freight a year or two ago. I installed the lower handguard and pushed the retainer back all the way as if I was going to mount the handguard.  Using my calipers, I set the distance from the front of the rear site block to the center of the retainer's lever. Next, remove the handguard, place the calipers in the same spot and scratch the barrel at the corresponding spot of where the center of the lever was. This will be your filing point. Go slow, and check often for fit. It's better to have the lever be a little on the tight side than the loose side, but that's my preference. If you make it too loose, it won't be able to come undone when the rifle is assembled anyway.





I ended up using the retainer that I drilled out because the one that had the slots ended up being crooked. If you look at the pic above, you will see that the slots are not at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock like they should be. Too bad I didn't notice that before, because I would have drilled that one out instead.

Installing the Gas Block:

I have a simple method for installing the gas block. I use an old punch that broke and put it in the cleaning rod hole and gently tap it on.

• Regardless of which type of SAIGA you have, pinned or pressed (side dimples), you will be using the old rear pin hole to align your gas block. Be sure to use oil on the barrel and inside the gas block to help the installation process.

• Once you have the rear hole aligned, start to check for alignment with the rear site, and by installing the bolt carrier. I use a rubber mallet to tap the block either left or right, depending on which direction it needs to move. I also have a set of alignment blocks that can be used, but I find my eye is easier to use.
  
  

• 
  
   Before putting the pins in, or drilling a new front one, you need to check for gas port clearance. I use some of my TIG welder wire to push down the gas block and through the gas port. Shining a bore light up the barrel, you should be able to see the wire poking through the gas port.
  
  

• Once you have checked gas port alignment, ensured your bolt carrier engages easily into gas block, and it aligns right, you can insert the rear pin. Now remember, if you re-use the old pin, it's almost as long as 2, and you will need to trim it.
  
  

Installing the Front Site Block:

You need nothing more than the rubber mallet and some oil to install the front site block. Again, as with the gas block, if you have the pinned SAIGA, you will align the holes in the block with the holes in the barrel for the pins.

• Simply place the front site block on the end of the barrel, and lightly tap with your mallet until it's flush with the barrel. I usually check alignment with the rear site to make it as close to straight as possible before tapping it on. Sometimes the installation will cause it to move anyway, but better to start right than wrong. Be sure to check alignment with the pin slots in the barrel, if you have the pinned SAIGA. If you do not have the pinned SAIGA, simple make it flush with the barrel.

• Using the squaring blocks is an ok way to check alignment. I use my eyes and a laser bore site to align the front site block.

Drilling and pinning barrel components:

• I used the drill press again for this step. You can use a variable speed drill, but go slow and make sure you are aligned properly. Also ensure that you use lubricant, otherwise you will chew up your bits. I used 7/64 bits and standard pins that I have taken from other conversions in the past. 7/64 is the perfect size for the milspec pins. The titanium bits went through the barrel like butter!
  
  

After the the barrel components are drilled and pinned, or just pinned, depending on model of SAIGA, you can now install the lower handguard, gas tube, cleaning rod and compensator. (note, if you are doing this on a 7.62x39 SAIGA, you will either have to drill out the compensator or buy a .30 cal one from a vendor. DO NOT use a 74 compensator on a .30 cal rifle!!!)





This completes the barrel components installation process.

<span style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline; font-size: 10pt;">Part IV

Installing the rear components:

Installing the rear components can be the most challenging aspect of the conversion when using hand tools. Getting everything aligned properly and using the punches to crush the rivets can be the biggest challenge. I managed to cut my thumb pretty bad during this conversion, so my rivets didn't come out great. I also found that my rivet kit didn't have the large rivet that goes to the rear trigger guard and below the disconnector. I placed a standard rivet in for now, and will supplement this tutorial when I receive the proper rivet.

• Place the selector plate on the receiver, then place the trigger guard on top of it aligning the holes to the holes in the receiver. We are going to concentrate on the four rivets at the mag catch first. Be sure that the selector plate is on correctly. There should be an outline on the receiver because it gets painted after being installed.

• Next we select the proper rivets from your rivet kit. They're the ones that are not too long, and fit in the holes next to the mag catch. They should poke up into the receiver but not by a lot. Sorry, I forgot to get a pic. I will most likely redo these rivets as they are not up to my standards. Will take pics then and supplement this tutorial.

• Once you have all four rivets placed in the holes, using your fingers to hold them in place, turn the rifle over and place on top of your vice. You may drill holes in the proper places on top of the vice if you wish. I did this, but mine is a cheap $30 vice. Make sure that the rifle sits evenly on all four rivet heads. I do not strap down the rifle or anything because I tend to rock the receiver in the direction of which rivet I am crushing.
  
  

• Using a medium punch first, select the first you rivet you wish to crush and start to hit the rivets from inside the receiver. I start on the edges of the rivet ( from 12 o'clock to 3, to 6 to 9) to get it to start to mushroom. Once the rivet has mushroomed, I get the large punch to "finish" the crushing. This gives it a bit more of a uniform crush. The front trigger guard rivets are the hardest due to the receiver strut bar, but it can be done.

• Next, flip the rifle back upside down and install the rear rivet (this section will be updated with my method to crush the proper rivet when it arrives). Using the same process as for the front rivets, using a punch, mushroom the rivet.
  
  

Once this rear rivet is in place, you can now install your pistol grip, buttstock, and trigger assembly. Then reassemble the rest of the rifle.

This completes this section on installing the rear components.

<span style="font-size: 10pt;"><span style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: underline;">Part V

Installing the bullet Guide:

The first thing you need to do when you receive the rifle is to determine whether you have a round trunnion, or a flat trunnion rifle and to order the proper bullet guide.  Make sure you order the caliber specific bullet guide, it can make a difference.

Image from Carolina Shooting supply



The bullet guide sometimes may not be a necessity, but I almost always install one anyway. My reasoning is that if the factory uses it, it's probably not a bad thing. I've had 5.45x39 and 7.62x39 SAIGAS function fine without them. If I get lucky enough and get a flat trunnion SAIGA, I will almost always use a 74 bullet guide that I modify to fit the SAIGA. I really like the look of the feed ramps on the guide.

(these pics taken from web, if they are yours, let me know and I will credit you)

this:



vs



I have modded one of the 74 bullet guides for a round trunnion, but by the time I was finished, the metal was really thin, so I wouldn't recommend it.

This SAIGA is a .223 one, and is also my 1st .223 SAIGA to ever convert. From everything I have read, they require a special type feed ramp, so I have ordered one from Dinzag.

Items needed:

• Bullet guide kit (comes with the drill bit, bullet guide, and tap)

• Tap handle

• lubricant for drill bit and tap

• Magazine to check for clearance and feeding

• Place the bullet guide on the trunnion. Insert empty mag and check to make sure it can be inserted without moving the bullet guide. It's important to look from as many angles as possible before you decide on the final position as the guide can look straight from one angle but not from another. You only get one chance, so better to measure multiple times to get it right.

• Once you have determined the proper location, I used a center punch to mark the center of the hole. This will also help keep the bit from walking when you drill the hole.
  
  

(sorry, my potato was acting up and the focus just wasn't cooperating, but I think you get the point)

• At this point I usually place the bullet guide back in the trunnion and
  the check with the bolt and bolt carrier that there is enough clearance.

• Go ahead and try to hand cycle some snap caps or remove the firing pin from the bolt and use live rounds to check for feeding from a mag. If rounds do not feed properly, you may need to order a different bullet guide.
  
  

• I normally would have used my drill press, but for some reason, my chuck will not accommodate the smaller diameter drill bits, so I used my hand drill. Start slow, you do not want the bit to walk, and lubricate often.
  
  Be careful not to go too far as you will drill into the receiver.
  
  

• Using an air compressor, can of air, or a cleaning brush, remove the shavings.

• Insert your tap into the tap handle and lubricate the hole you just drilled.

• In the next step, it is very important that you take your time and go slow!!!! You will not be happy if you break the tap. Most people say to do a 1/4 turn the back the tap out. That's what I typically do also. So far I've only broken one tap, and that was because I did not know this rule. Do not get impatient at this point! You are almost done!

• Once you have threaded the hole, get the screw out and check that it threads easily.
  
  

You can see that my alignment was a tad off. Spoiler, it still works fine.

• Once you have checked that the screw threads fine, remove it and place your bullet guide in the trunnion. Screw the trunnion in place.
  
  

• We need to check that the magazine feeds properly now that the guide is in place. Go ahead and hand cycle some rounds. If the rounds chamber fine, you're good to go!

• I noticed that my cleaning rod would not pass the screw for the bullet guide, so I removed the screw and using my grinding wheel I took off enough that the rod would go past it. You may need to do some fine filing to get the screw to thread back into the hole. Add a dab of red loctite to the screw and reinsert.
  
  

• Reassemble bolt, and rifle.
  
  

<span style="font-size: 10pt; font-weight: bold;">Project complete! Minus refinishing, but I don't think I'm going to do that part in this tutorial.



Enjoy your new rifle! You may not have saved much money over buying an SGL or SLR, but you have the satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself!





(place holder for finished rifle pic, sun's already down)



potato pic



non potato pics:

Sweet

subscribed.  thanks for doing this.

Yeah I'm in.

+1

I will check it. Thanks!

 

This is awesome.... thank you nictra.

I assume this will be sticky'd

On the front end, how are you managing to secure the firearm so that you don't damage the receiver or something while you beat on the muzzle device & gas  block?

I'm holding it in my hand. These parts come off rather easily to be honest.
 

oops

 

Looking good!  Thanks for taking the time to do this !

Tip:

When removing rivets with a hand drill, use a Dremel with grinder or file to get a flat spot on the top of the rivet. This will make it easier to get a centered hole into the rivet head.

Hey man. This thread jogged my memory. Do you still have the dinzag 223 bullet guide kit I gave you? It's been a while but honestly thought you still had it?

I do, but it's for a flat trunnion, this rifle is a round trunnion.



Waiting on parts to finish this conversion and tutorial.



 

Looks great

Only thing I would caution is tapping on the bayo lug on the FSB or accessory lug on the GB. NinerRider and I accidentally bent one when we were seating the GB on a conversion a few years ago. Probably a bit heavy handed on our part but they aren't really all that sturdy IMO


Very well written too, nice work




Z

interesting. I've done 10+ like this and never bent or broke one, but I can see that as a possibility. I will amend it to take caution. THX!



 

I mean, do you work at the double entendre sigline material or does it just come naturally for ya? Because i'm telling you, it's epic really.

So much win in this thread!

nice! I meant thumb.

Nice write up!

magazines and bullet guide should be here tomorrow, unfortunately, I will not be....Will have an update post Christmas.
Merry Christmas!

 










 

updated with new pics and finishing of the tutorial.

dude that's a sweet tutorial. Should be made into a sticky!

thanks for the tutorial

Ok I will ask it. Why start with a saiga and do ALL that work. when you could buy an actual AK for similar prices. What am I missing?

Satisfaction. There was a time when I could build a SAIGA up for under $500. Sadly those days are gone.

 

Do Bulgarian Circle 10 or Polish 5.56 mags fit in the rifle or do you have to modify them somehow?

Thanks

what was your final cost for this build? (saiga, parts, essential tools such as tap, etc)



I have debated doing this in the past - I have never tinkered with my ak's but I have built numerous AR's from the ground up



it looks pretty straightforward - thanks for the tutorial!

THIS. It USED To be worth it to convert a Saiga (back in the $399 days), but NOT anymore. For the DIY'ers, great. For those thinking that they will undercut an Arsenal... NO, you won't. Not only will you spend more than an Arsenal, you'll wind up with a bolted on trigger guard (vs properly riveted on), etc. Saiga's are NOT the deal they once were. The day's of Saiga's were 4 yrs ago.. but as with everything, it takes people a while to catch on to what's going on (this coming from a previous Saiga converter).

Just wondering. I have an old school saiga .308, But I live in CA so if I convert it I will have to put on a bullet button. even though the trigger totally sucks I think I would rather be able to use my mags.

Costs will vary, especially these days. I traded some goods for what I was lacking and had the rest already in the parts bin. I bought the base rifle for $250, it's was just a receiver and barrel with rear site block. I had everything else on hand. This rifle is using a 74 bolt and carrier seeing as how it's near impossible to find a 100 series 223 bolt these days. The bullet guide kit was like $35 on too of that. Typically the parts you will need are as follows:





























 

Revive with a little eye candy and fun.

Bump for an awesome thread, really wish the mods would sticky this.

ETA: Didn't realize this thread was in AK Discussions, was thinking it should get stickied in the Russian sub-forum.

Guess I need to call around and see if any of the major AK players have any donor parts rifles laying around for cheap.

I really wish this was moved to the russian forum and stickied, replacing all of the sticked conversion threads there which are now all defunct.