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Posted: 2/11/2012 10:03:07 PM EDT
[#1]
anything that removes rust will remove bluing, keep that in mind.
is your bore chrome lined? |
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Posted: 2/11/2012 10:57:33 PM EDT
[#2]
Yes, chrome lined bore. Not super-worried about the finish, typical Romy finish, no loss if it's gone because it'll wear off in 6 months anyway
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Posted: 2/15/2012 8:26:30 PM EDT
[#3]
Take furniture off the gun and wash in hot soapy water because you've already oiled it and salts are hiding under the oil. The hot water and detergent (strong degreaser) will cut the oil and flush away the salts. Rinse with hot water. Spray down with WD-40 after you get it as dry as you can. Remove excess WD-40 and apply whatever gun oil you normally use. After firing corrosive next time, mix up a batch of Ballistol/water and use it to wash every surface in the gun. Drain/wipe the excess away and use either straight Ballistol for your CLP or whatever you like. Or, do the soap and water/WD-40 thing again. Takes me about 30 minutes to do mine with the emulsion after getting home from the range. I can then put the gun away for an indeterminate period without being concerned about corrosion from the ammo. Later, maybe the next day or when I think about it, I get it out and use straight Ballistol to clean the bore and oil the gun. Everything has a thin film of protection on it anyway from the emulsion wash.
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Posted: 2/28/2012 9:12:42 PM EDT
[#4]
Piss, seariously.....
I've got a AK that I torture, I piss in it all the time for a laugh and the bore is near mint even though the rifle is rougher than hell. 
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Posted: 3/4/2012 7:48:05 AM EDT
[#5]
Get out the Ballistol Mixed w/Water (BMW), the cleaning rod, and the brush that comes in the kit. Using plenty of BMW and the brush scrub everywhere that gets powder fouling on it. Get extra in the gas block so it drains into the barrel to flush out the gas port. You want enough BMW on it that the barrel drains when you tilt the rifle muzzle down. I do this outside as it's really messy.
Dry everything you got wet, then apply CLP or straight Ballistol liberally. Either one will creep under and into joints and prevent rust. Check the rifle the next day. You'll see rusting from any spots you missed and may see Ballistol reacting with copper fouling and turning green. If you see any more rust clean the rifle again. The Sov manual calls for cleaning the rifle each day for 3 days after firing: https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B09fZpC9S7gDMmYyMGI2Y2MtMzQ3MC00MDU3LTk0Y2ItYjBlZTNiNDc5NWE0&authkey=CLT79qIH H |
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Posted: 4/17/2012 6:31:14 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Piss, seariously..... I've got a AK that I torture, I piss in it all the time for a laugh and the bore is near mint even though the rifle is rougher than hell. http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7910/dsc0104wh.jpg that sucker looks bad ass, did you finish that wood yourself? |
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Posted: 5/19/2012 10:19:10 PM EDT
[#7]
Like Caser said, if it removes rust, it removes bluing. Having said that, if the corrosion is bad enough that it is pitting the metal, treating it with Naval Jelly will do the trick. I picked it up at Lowes to use on the metal pipe running from my gas meter into my house and it worked great. I recently used it on a gas tube, metal followers and floor plates. Since it removes the bluing it will leave the metal bare so make sure you put plenty of gun oil on it and get it blued as soon as you can. If you don't the rust will come back quickly. |
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Posted: 6/23/2012 3:55:33 PM EDT
[#8]
I shoulda returned back: I did elsewhere but not here
I got a can of "Corrosion-Block". Sprayed it on and let it sit overnight: Next morning, I tipped it out, reddish fluid flowed out: not a speck of rust has showed up again in the gas tube/gas block,etc. I'm sold on the stuff. |
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Posted: 6/24/2012 4:35:59 PM EDT
[#9]
Part of the problem is, the corrosive fouling can get covered with a caked-on layer of carbon and ordinary flushing may not get to it.
After cleaning with water the corrosive salts start to leech out from under the carbon and you get rust. A good way to help prevent this is to clean your gas block and gas tube with Slip 2000 Carbon Cutter. This is a water-based chemical that removes carbon by just soaking it for 15 minutes or so. Since it's also water-based it removes the corrosive salts too. Corrosive primer residue is insidious stuff. It was first positively identified as the corrosive element in the 1920's when the military began to unpack and inspect WWI 1903 and 1917 rifles that had been cleaned and packed away after the war. They were shocked to find rifles rusted UNDER heavy coats of cosmoline. They had a chemist investigate what could cause rust under protective grease and he discovered the element was a form of salt produced by the primer. Before this it was thought corrosion was caused by an acid in the powder. The military immediately developed a bore solvent that dissolved and flushed the salts out. |
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Posted: 9/21/2012 3:59:03 PM EDT
[#10]
corrosion block sounds like good stuff. there are some great replies here... just to add in a pinch you could use vinegar to clean and protect it might smell worse than Piss though?
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Posted: 12/5/2012 6:23:11 AM EDT
[#11]
3 in1 oil is an awesome rust buster in my experience. I've used it in nagants before for this with great results. As far as piss goes I've yet to try it. I'm gonna save you guys the trouble, and tell you that poop does not work. At all........
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Posted: 1/25/2013 11:37:00 PM EDT
[#12]
I know we're not in GD but this thread had me lol'ing.
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Posted: 2/4/2013 11:50:58 AM EDT
[#13]
What brand of Corrosion Block works best? There are a few
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Posted: 2/4/2013 12:00:48 PM EDT
[#14]
You're probably having an issue with corrosive primer salts trapped under or in oils, but there's still just enough O2 penetration that corrosion is still happening.
The biggest problem I find with trying to use water based cleaning to remove the corrosive primer salts from an AK or other milsurp is that the oils the gun also needs prevent the water from getting them all. What will happen is a basic water cleaning will remove most of the salts, but not all. The water regimen needs to be alternated or combined with some sort of detergent, or a potent degreaser. I remove all furniture save the stock, then I spray the AK down with brake or carb cleaner leaving it bone-dry, then I rinse/scrub with water, then I use boiling water and compressed air to get it completely dry again, then I give it a light misting with RemOil, CLP... whatever's handy to re-oil everything, a drop of Mobil 1 to some key points that need a bit more, or would benefit from a heavier oil, and just wipe off any excess then reassemble. Another good way to degrease and water clean all at once if the fumes from brake or carb sprays is a problem because you're indoors etc., is the cheap "Purple Power" degreaser detergent from Walmart. |
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Posted: 4/18/2013 7:22:47 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Like Caser said, if it removes rust, it removes bluing. Having said that, if the corrosion is bad enough that it is pitting the metal, treating it with Naval Jelly will do the trick. I picked it up at Lowes to use on the metal pipe running from my gas meter into my house and it worked great. I recently used it on a gas tube, metal followers and floor plates. Since it removes the bluing it will leave the metal bare so make sure you put plenty of gun oil on it and get it blued as soon as you can. If you don't the rust will come back quickly. Actually outers makes a good rust remover that does not remove the bluing. I have used it before. You really have to work on it a while because the outers isn't extremely strong. However, as long as the rust isn't in the bore then your fine. |
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Posted: 5/16/2013 1:02:46 PM EDT
[#16]
this got off topic.. retraction
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Posted: 5/23/2013 11:19:13 AM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:
Piss, seariously..... I've got a AK that I torture, I piss in it all the time for a laugh and the bore is near mint even though the rifle is rougher than hell. http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7910/dsc0104wh.jpg And THAT is why I bought an AK. You can't kill it. |
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Posted: 6/7/2013 7:17:45 AM EDT
[#18]
Kroil oil will remove the rust. Let it soak over night, then clean again and repeat the soaking & cleaning each day, for about a week. I have done this with antiques and it has worked without removing the orginial finish. It does take time and tlc.
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Posted: 6/7/2013 8:03:20 AM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Kroil oil will remove the rust. Let it soak over night, then clean again and repeat the soaking & cleaning each day, for about a week. I have done this with antiques and it has worked without removing the orginial finish. It does take time and tlc. Kroil for the win. Plus, the smell is delightful :) CorrosionX is highly reviewed as well but I can't speak from personal experience. And like others have said, be sure to thoroughly clean off the existing salts with hot soapy water several times then clean with CLP or whatever you use as normal with a metal brush. Then work on removing the existing rust. |
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Posted: 6/11/2013 4:34:00 PM EDT
[#20]
I ordered some corrosionX 2 weeks ago, I have it in my hands. Just cause you cant find something locally ....
Once you used the clr you should have used some corrosionx right away. Do it again and do it right. Ready? Begin. |
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Posted: 6/21/2013 7:06:16 PM EDT
[#21]
Those two guns I used Corrosion X on never have rusted again. And I've used it several more times, been spotless ever since.
I'll alwys keep a couple cans of this around
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Posted: 7/3/2013 11:24:02 PM EDT
[#22]
To you guys using or recommending the Corrosion X, their website lists several different products.
Are we talking about Corrosion X for guns, the regular Corrosion X, or the Corrosion X Rust Remover? Thanks |
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Posted: 7/3/2013 11:28:07 PM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
Like Caser said, if it removes rust, it removes bluing. Having said that, if the corrosion is bad enough that it is pitting the metal, treating it with Naval Jelly will do the trick. I picked it up at Lowes to use on the metal pipe running from my gas meter into my house and it worked great. I recently used it on a gas tube, metal followers and floor plates. Since it removes the bluing it will leave the metal bare so make sure you put plenty of gun oil on it and get it blued as soon as you can. If you don't the rust will come back quickly. Naval Jelly is what is commonly sold as bluing remover. Apply with caution. I would go buy a bottle of rust neutralizer at an auto parts store. Keep it off the outside and the chromed surfaces, it still has an acid in it, getting it on concrete while working on a radiator last summer verified that!. Swab the gas tube and block and the rear sight base inside. Let ti set for 30 min or so then clean out wiht soapy warter. Then rinse witha pot fo fresh, boiling water. Then lube everything and I mean EVERYHING that is steel! |
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Posted: 7/6/2013 7:13:04 AM EDT
[#24]
The good thing about AKs, it would shoot even if its corrosive unless you have cheap Chinese built.
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Posted: 7/6/2013 11:29:55 AM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
The good thing about AKs, it would shoot even if its corrosive unless you have cheap Chinese built. What are you trying to say? |
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Posted: 8/2/2013 6:03:04 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
To you guys using or recommending the Corrosion X, their website lists several different products. Are we talking about Corrosion X for guns, the regular Corrosion X, or the Corrosion X Rust Remover? Thanks I use the regular corrosionX in the red container. I just bought a spray bottle of it, I like it so well :) A competition 3 gun shooter out of Texarkana turned me on to it. |
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Posted: 10/6/2013 5:10:27 PM EDT
[#27]
Eezox and nothing else for corrosion resistance, you hear???
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Posted: 10/11/2013 6:39:59 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What are you trying to say? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
The good thing about AKs, it would shoot even if its corrosive unless you have cheap Chinese built. What are you trying to say? That he's an idiot. |
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Posted: 10/30/2013 2:35:32 PM EDT
[#29]
I am new to this corrosive ammo............I under stand if I were to go and fire a couple of hundred rounds( 200 to 400 ) I would need to clean the rifle but what if I want to just fire 2 mags will I still need to go thru the all the cleaning?
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Posted: 11/1/2013 2:33:44 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am new to this corrosive ammo............I under stand if I were to go and fire a couple of hundred rounds( 200 to 400 ) I would need to clean the rifle but what if I want to just fire 2 mags will I still need to go thru the all the cleaning? if you are only going to shoot 2 mags, maybe look into getting some wolf 545, i dont think its corrosive. its more expensive but for those 2 mag shooting sessions it might work. i do that for when my son wants to shoot. he' s young and generally only needs 4 or 5 mags to be satisfied. |
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Posted: 11/2/2013 5:40:13 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am new to this corrosive ammo............I under stand if I were to go and fire a couple of hundred rounds( 200 to 400 ) I would need to clean the rifle but what if I want to just fire 2 mags will I still need to go thru the all the cleaning? If you shoot one round, you have to clean it. |
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Posted: 3/19/2014 6:10:34 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That he's an idiot. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
The good thing about AKs, it would shoot even if its corrosive unless you have cheap Chinese built. What are you trying to say? That he's an idiot. Yeah, I second that....saw his post and was like  ...OP, I use a routine of Hoppe's #9 first followed by the Ballistol/water mix. The Hoppes cut the carbon and exposes the salts to the BWM for more thorough cleaning. The Hoppes will remove some of the salts just by cleaning but the BWM will take care of any of the remaining salt residue. Use lube of choice then check it the next day to see if any rust is starting to develop, if so repeat the process.
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Posted: 3/19/2014 6:19:01 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Piss, seariously..... I've got a AK that I torture, I piss in it all the time for a laugh and the bore is near mint even though the rifle is rougher than hell. http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7910/dsc0104wh.jpg
WTF 
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Posted: 5/12/2014 8:51:38 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I ordered some corrosionX 2 weeks ago, I have it in my hands. Just cause you cant find something locally .... Once you used the clr you should have used some corrosionx right away. Do it again and do it right. Ready? Begin. Will the CorrosionX penetrate the layer left by the clr or is it better to put the CorrosionX directly on bare metal after cleaning? |
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