So i got a Saiga (converted) and its got a hairline crack near one of the forward trigger pins (about 5mm away from it). the crack is on the underside from the trigger guard on the left side and thus far its stopped at edge. So its about 3mm long.


I was told its possible that the crack would spread if not fixed...true?

best way to fix it and can i do it at home?

Can you TIG it? would a stick welder work? if welding is the only option, how and were do i drill the hole (i was told several things, from drilling a small hole at where the crack terminates to drilling the entire crack...)

how about epoxy (like JB weld...)? Or how about brazing it, like w/ a bottle torch and some solder?

Any other ideas?

*pics borrowed from original owner thread:

I would mig weld it.

Yes. Easy fix with MIG.  AK receivers flex a lot when fired so JB weld is a waste of time.

Itlooks like the russian maker tryed to fix da crack and you can just weld and file and repark it
Or super glue
Lol

Stop drill it, mask and abrasive blast, weld - MIG/TIG/Gas, grind cosmetically mask ad paint to match.

Exactly. If you can't weld it now, drill it and it won't get worse. It's not in a high stress area anyway.



To drill, use a small drill bit and drill a hole at the end of the crack. This will stop it from propagating.



 

Just be positive you get the end of the crack when drilling or it will continue to spread.

Then as above weld and refinish.

k cool; i'm good w/ just drilling it w/ a small bit in a press for now to prevent the spread. if you can see it, the crack terminates right now just at the bend...think that will be a problem?

why MIG vs TIG on the heat treated Ak reciever? (have access to a TIG and regular stick welder atm)...

TIG would be best but if you can't get it to someone to TIG it you could use High temp silver solder. Just make sure the metal is clean before applying the solder.

exactly!!

do this



 

Stop Drill, Tig Weld, Back it with a brass block.

TIG is best , MIG

Unless one is a master MIG welder, TIG is the only way to go.  ER 70.

MIG is good for roof-racks, bumpers and wrought iron fences, not for precision work on thin material.

Open up the crack a bit so it's V or U shape, clamp a piece of copper to the inside, and TIG.  Sand smooth with 100# disc sander, then follow with medium scotchbrite.

Same technique for filling holes in the sporters.